The Dons' Organic Garden

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Its cool how they use hemp seed meal too,

Hemp Meal is a fantastic soil amendment and source of N-P-K and naturally occuring growth hormones such as Glutamic acid.

It has an N-P-K of (4.5 - 1.2 - 0.9), with the Nitrogen derived from amino acids (it contains all known amino acids!) such as Methionine which stimulates the production of ethylene used in numerous important plant functions including the ripening of fruit.

Additionally, Hemp Seed Meal will provide your soil with Boron, Magnesium, Calcium, Iron, Zinc, Manganese and Copper, and is one of the few plant sources of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids.
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Thank you tons for posting the soil recipe above! Amazing info in there!
I have basically one question on my mind after reading, the approx. 5TBSP's of Kelp per gallon soil
I'm wondering the reasoning behind this from you, and what would happen if everything in the mix was the same, but literally 5times less Kelp meal in the mix? Not knocking the formula whatsoever, I just want to understand the reasoning for this amount. You know tons more than I do on this subject. Thanks man!
 

Johnei

Well-Known Member
(I've been using organic hulled hemp seeds/hearts in my soil mixes for years now. It provides so much benefits. Kind of my secret formula. What else has exactly what the hemp needs for growth than the seeds themselves. Omega oils is a biggie also and large amounts of highly available aminos and proteins that the microbes love and supercharge the mix. I believe it 'heats up' the mix as alfalfa does when preparing the soil, but I may be wrong about that.)
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
i think next time ill be going with organic solutions thay got tea brewing kits for veg early and late flower and have an airation mix of pumice zeolite and rice hulls couldent help my self i got the hemp seed meal premium airation mix and the no till soil thay sold might do an auto grow with the no till while i waight for the other soil 2 cook. cheers for the info don tea means alot
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
@giglewigle you actually found 2 good / cool companies, brother.. both those AU business have some big pluses for you, mon. Between them, and your creativity, you're going to be well covered.

Dr Greenthumbs has some awesome stuff actually, like in the Grow Medium section, pumice, bentonite clay, diatomite - I like seeing that available for my fellow AU peeps.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
i think next time ill be going with organic solutions thay got tea brewing kits for veg early and late flower and have an airation mix of pumice zeolite and rice hulls couldent help my self i got the hemp seed meal premium airation mix and the no till soil thay sold might do an auto grow with the no till while i waight for the other soil 2 cook. cheers for the info don tea means alot
appreciate the eyes and ears in the AU bro, respect

yeah I like to see that premium aeration mix! I was just talking to my bro and my woman about how thats what would be good to be available for those wanting to purchase less things.. not sure if I would add zeolite in my premium aeration mix (I would go lava rocks, pumice, DE rocks / diatomite, biochar, organic buckwheat hulls, wild rice hulls, and leaf compost or what some people call leaf mould) but I do have zeolite in my mix, actually, I just dont think its needed..

all you need for a solid tea brewing regime though? is a (FREE) cup or two of your own castings, seal it up in a baggie. it will get better and better with age, over a course of 3 to four months, where it peaks in nutrient bioavailability...

then $5 in some bulk, raw evaporated cane juice crystals (amazing sugar) with its molasses / minerals / vitamins intact.

That will make the best bang for your buck bacterial dom teas.

Then not even $5 in organic oats or something of the sort, ground up, that will help make a fungal dom brew.. just pre-moisten the oats and soil / compost / castings 36 hours before your brew, or a few weeks, even, and then use that for your flowering tea.

You'd be surprised at the results.. Fungus and bacteria, amazing creatures.

@Johnei has the collected sickest microscope vids on his thread, we're gonna have to load some up here so they are everywhere.. they're mind blowing, old school classic as all get out, but seriously mind blowing and informative.

And yeah, Johnei you have a good point about the hemp hearts being vital to the plant, they have every amino acid / protein.. I wonder how the worm farm would like them.. thanks for the share!
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
@giglewigle that diatomite is the best though if I'm not mistaken.. DE Rocks are my fav top dress. So many benefits. so clean. Can water in the cooling benefits of Si.
Then bugs cant get through it without killing themselves..
.. Can always have a shredded mulch under too

But yeah thanks again for posting the links eh, means a lot!
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
Yeah I saw that, I thought that was cool too, it looks really nice and fluffy, I'd put that on the worm farm, they'd love it I bet
thats a good idea im gunna do that lol i might get some soon i dont think my worms are eating to mutch atm it gets down 2 0 where im at now but im seeing eggs so thay must be allright also green green thumbs blog showed how to make fish hydrolysate and some other cool stuff fuck i cant wait to get it now that i just about got everything gunna start looking into diying an led light
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
@giglewigle that diatomite is the best though if I'm not mistaken.. DE Rocks are my fav top dress. So many benefits. so clean. Can water in the cooling benefits of Si.
Then bugs cant get through it without killing themselves..
.. Can always have a shredded mulch under too

But yeah thanks again for posting the links eh, means a lot!
anytime bro any time no trouble all the help uve given me its the least i could do
@calliandra has some amazing microscopic images of compost life too.

Cheers,
Mo
well shit im gunna have to check that out microbes are awsome
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Thank you tons for posting the soil recipe above! Amazing info in there!
I have basically one question on my mind after reading, the approx. 5TBSP's of Kelp per gallon soil
I'm wondering the reasoning behind this from you, and what would happen if everything in the mix was the same, but literally 5times less Kelp meal in the mix? Not knocking the formula whatsoever, I just want to understand the reasoning for this amount. You know tons more than I do on this subject. Thanks man!
No disrespect my friend, thanks for your comments and questions, glad you dig the most part!

Actually the kelp amount I recommend is only 67% of what the supplier itself recommends, or 2/3 the full amount.

-bought some of the fav amendments and built our yearly batch and then upon reading the labels, decided to a side by side by side by side, comparing one mentors recipe (@DonPetro) to different percentages of kelp..

grew about 10 different strains, several months ahead, and had picked the fav 2 cuts, cloned the phenos we liked, then we were able to do a good side x side x side x side with both sets of phenos,. same up pot sched, same veg time, same recipes, but diff kelp amounts..

the amounts tested were .5%, 1%, 1.5%, & 2%, for the Pink Gravy
same for Sour Diesel, those four percentages.

Reasoning behind it..
with over 60 trace elements including the two big ones for potency, as well as THC and CBD production, Iron and Magnanese, both of which are well present in kelp, 120 cups per cu foot, just just under, figured a half cup per foot wasn't even a half percent of total volume, so it was more than 6x less than what my supplier was suggesting.

So figured best do an experiment on the 4 safest amounts..

And shit man, the results were stunning.

Potency increased, smells increased, flavour increased, expression increased, expansion increased, speed of formation was excellent, seemed to be visibly more trichomes under the macros, as well as more terpenes to the touch, that is greasier plants that got greasy before they got sticky.

we added water-only the whole time by the way, plain RO, redistributing any runoff evenly after rediluting it. Mixed spectrum of 3500k 4000k 6400k and some far red / deep red uvb supplementation, every plant rotated quarter turn a day and moved over a spot to the left on drench day, every third day, for even spread.

Hope that helps clarify my positioning a bit!

Im just trying to give easy entry options for people who may want or should want to avoid commercial animal products, I dont condone animal products at all, tis just the quality of the 95% of large commercial farming practices, hormones and antibiotics and pusses and uric acids and any unnecessary feces and diseases are just some of the things I try keep out of the mix and flower / smoke and immune system- just if and where possible..

if and when we have our own chickens I wouldn't be so opposed to chicken manure for example.. its just good to have control over animal sources I think @Johnei

Not that you wont grow killer dope in many many ways, I dont doubt that for a sec
 
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DonTesla

Well-Known Member
thats a good idea im gunna do that lol i might get some soon i dont think my worms are eating to mutch atm it gets down 2 0 where im at now but im seeing eggs so thay must be allright also green green thumbs blog showed how to make fish hydrolysate and some other cool stuff fuck i cant wait to get it now that i just about got everything gunna start looking into diying an led light
You're on a roll, brotha, nice work!

You could always warm your worm farm up with some alfalfa meal, or high N inputs, even organic cow manure or kelp.. but eggs are a great sign! They are snuggling and making out, then, no doubt.

And right on man-
Fish hydrolysate is a lot better than emulsion, imo, here's another recipe so you can compare

http://www.ridgedalepermaculture.com/blog/making-fish-hydrolysate

If you want to keep it clean and simple though, you can just add seaweed flour to melted snow/water, teeny tiny amounts are big time beneficial, like 1/8tsp not even, as well as just hydrate kelp.

For me, fish is the next product I figure a way around, everything is so plant based and planet / mineral based in my mix I just love to smell everything, but damn fish bone meal almost makes me puke haha

Respect either way though, going after what you know you want is whats good and the moral here. That fish hydro will heat the shack up too so at least you're building an arsenal of potential solutions, -Keep it up!
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
What is Diatomite?
Diatomite is diatamecous earth rock, a friable light-colored sedimentary rock that is mainly composed of the siliceous skeletal remains of diatoms. It is a very porous rock with a fine particle size and a low specific gravity. These properties make it useful as a filter media, an absorbent, and as a lightweight filler for rubber, paint, and plastics. When diatomite is crushed into a powder, it is usually called "diatomaceous earth," or D.E.

What are Diatoms?

Diatoms are members of a large, diverse group of algae that drift freely in the waters of oceans and lakes. A few types of diatoms live on the bottom of these water bodies and in soils. Most diatoms are microscopic, but a few species are up to two millimeters in length. As a group, diatoms are unique because they are single-celled organisms that produce an external cell wall composed of silica, called a frustule. These frustules are very thin and have a delicate structure.

Nearly all diatoms are photosynthetic and live in water less than about thirty feet deep, where sunlight can penetrate. Diatoms are prolific and are responsible for producing nearly half of the organic mass in the world’s oceans.


Diatomite as a beer filter:
Diatomite has a very small particle size, a high porosity, and is relatively inert. That makes it an excellent material for use as a filter. Much of the beer brewed in the United States is filtered through crushed diatomite, known as diatomaceous earth. When selecting diatomite for beer filtering, it is important to source the diatomite from a deposit that was formed in a freshwater environment - because the salty marine diatomite will ruin the beer! Diatomaceous earth is also used to filter wine, drinking water, syrup, honey, juice, swimming pool water, and much more.

Courtesy of / props to Geology.com
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
"Our premium mix also changes perlite out for more robust aerations. As we've mentioned elsewhere, perlite will eventually break down and compact in your pots, this isn't what we want! Instead we use pumice, diatomite and zeolite. All these minerals play out their own unique rolls in your soil as mentioned here. "

dr green thumbs. AU

Glad to see im not the only one seeing perlite as inferior :)
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
So we are officially gearing away from the two most prominent aerations that are available, not only in stores around here and everywhere, but that are in our own current mixes (some of them) and yeah just so the Don fam knows where we stand...

So re: Vermiculite and perlite,

both lower grade aerations and volcanic waste products basically with higher Aluminum (~15%) and dangerous dusts, but its cheap and widely available so most people suffice/suffer with it without complaining. (bought for $50 per tonne and then re-sold for 200 x $40 so call it around $8000 or so)

But Yes, less hazardous, more beneficial choices are available, and to me and many of my peoples, are much more preferable.. for one, mineral providing aerations and for two, humus / decompaction lending aerations

2 seperate categories for us.. this is what we want, one from each at least!

Some higher quality, Mineral-Lending Aeration Sources include:

  1. Pumice
  2. Diatomite i.e. D.E. Rocks
  3. Sand, especially greensand, K Feldspar sand
  4. Volcanic Lava Rock
  5. Bio Char
  6. Bone Char
  7. -----base-additions (above) & amendments (below)---------
  8. Dacite
  9. Basalt
  10. Glacial rocks / dust
  11. Bentonite Clay
  12. Langbeinite
  13. Gypsum

And Five aerations that provide springy, decompacting effects, while providing Co2 and more beneficial humus / bacterial & fungal food as they break down...
  1. Leaf compost / Forest Floor compost (some call leaf mould)
  2. Rotting Wood Compost (thermophilic, aged 2 years)
  3. Organic buckwheat hulls
  4. Wild Rice Hulls
  5. Shredded Coco shell hulls
Just don't see whats wrong with being aluminum free just whenever its easy / possible.

Not that silicate doesn't buffer but why risk having excess Phosphorus blockages and aluminum leeches in extremes when there could be other things in nature / stores that have this, even ask your store for the superior choices make them feel the heat for not providing, and maybe you can sway them to bring in another option!

Ideally aim for 6 types of aeration so I think we start asking / gently ushering / pressuring the hydro store owners and the like more to diversify a bit, and carry one less jug of chelated salt chemical on the shelf.

Your voice counts.. call in, ask, then visit and ask, then call in from another phone and ask, sooner or later you will see it show up!
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
So we are officially gearing away from the two most prominent aerations that are available, not only in stores around here and everywhere, but that are in our own current mixes (some of them) and yeah just so the Don fam knows where we stand...

So re: Vermiculite and perlite,

both lower grade aerations and volcanic waste products basically with higher Aluminum (~15%) and dangerous dusts, but its cheap and widely available so most people suffice/suffer with it without complaining. (bought for $50 per tonne and then re-sold for 200 x $40 so call it around $8000 or so)

But Yes, less hazardous, more beneficial choices are available, and to me and many of my peoples, are much more preferable.. for one, mineral providing aerations and for two, humus / decompaction lending aerations

2 seperate categories for us.. this is what we want, one from each at least!

Some higher quality, Mineral-Lending Aeration Sources include:

  1. Pumice
  2. Diatomite i.e. D.E. Rocks
  3. Sand, especially greensand, K Feldspar sand
  4. Volcanic Lava Rock
  5. Bio Char
  6. Bone Char
  7. -----base-additions (above) & amendments (below)---------
  8. Dacite
  9. Basalt
  10. Glacial rocks / dust
  11. Bentonite Clay
  12. Langbeinite
  13. Gypsum

And Five aerations that provide springy, decompacting effects, while providing Co2 and more beneficial humus / bacterial & fungal food as they break down...
  1. Leaf compost / Forest Floor compost (some call leaf mould)
  2. Rotting Wood Compost (thermophilic, aged 2 years)
  3. Organic buckwheat hulls
  4. Wild Rice Hulls
  5. Shredded Coco shell hulls
Just don't see whats wrong with being aluminum free just whenever its easy / possible.

Not that silicate doesn't buffer but why risk having excess Phosphorus blockages and aluminum leeches in extremes when there could be other things in nature / stores that have this, even ask your store for the superior choices make them feel the heat for not providing, and maybe you can sway them to bring in another option!

Ideally aim for 6 types of aeration so I think we start asking / gently ushering / pressuring the hydro store owners and the like more to diversify a bit, and carry one less jug of chelated salt chemical on the shelf.

Your voice counts.. call in, ask, then visit and ask, then call in from another phone and ask, sooner or later you will see it show up!
ye im about dry on the funds for the moment but i think all the soil ill have on hand and all the smoke ill have im never tempted to spend money when i got weed so when i get more money plus learning more ill keep onto em about stocking certin things fuck i cant wait for every thing 2 come tho some peaple say let it cook for a month thay say for weeks 2 3 months im thinking atleast 2 months but ill prob wait the 3
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
ye im about dry on the funds for the moment but i think all the soil ill have on hand and all the smoke ill have im never tempted to spend money when i got weed so when i get more money plus learning more ill keep onto em about stocking certin things fuck i cant wait for every thing 2 come tho some peaple say let it cook for a month thay say for weeks 2 3 months im thinking atleast 2 months but ill prob wait the 3
You have so much momentum though bro..

I personally would consider making a slightly lighter mix so I can start growing something from seed on day one! I only cook my soil sometimes.. if kelp is over 2% or if alfalfa is 1% of total volume or more. Just so y'all know :).

Upped my neem a tad, lowered my fish bone meal, closer to the min.. removing the steamed and slaughterhouse bone and blood meal.. making room for a cook free style..
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
You have so much momentum though bro..

I personally would consider making a slightly lighter mix so I can start growing something from seed on day one! I only cook my soil sometimes.. if kelp is over 2% or if alfalfa is 1% of total volume or more. Just so y'all know :).

Upped my neem a tad, lowered my fish bone meal, closer to the min.. removing the steamed and slaughterhouse bone and blood meal.. making room for a cook free style..
u just blew my mind dude cook free style ye i got a soil from the organic solution dudes it was called notill soil i think u can use it straight out the bag eather way i might cut it so i can start in it but eatner way it would be awsome to have a rotation of soils i might fill up the tent next run and do a scrog
 
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