The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

jberry

Well-Known Member
have you guys heard of that floriculture bloom and ooze the yellow bottles the ooze has a bee on its honey comb picture the stuffs like a hundred bucks each bottle? the guy at the hydro store is pumping it up major saying its like steroids and he said there is even a coco ab made by them if you have heard of it or used it or have any imput on it please let me know cuz im pretty interested in it but its a little pricey.

Jberry thanks for the help man i kind of messed up cuz i used shooting powder week 7 after the moab and gravity so it burn a lil and extended my time i think i have 2 weeks left now. but im doing just the moab and gravity no more shooting powder for 2 more watering then im gonna flush i think i just use a very light dose of a and b for flush? someone suggested something called clear x i think any imput on flushing would be greatly appreciated i know this isnt the right thread for that but u seem like you know whats up so i thought i would ask.
i have heard of those products and i even use AF's plant health regulator... it is a foliar spray that could be compared to Penicillin, (but for plants) I use it every 21-28 days and ive never gotten PM. Everyone else in my area that is growing the same strain seems to battle PM and none of them are using the AF health regulator like i am.

their products are the most expencive of any brand i have seen. the health regulator is a 2 part system that cost $35.00 a bottle but it has lasted over a year so far and i got more than half left!

the products u spoke of are really expensive and u have to use a gang of it with every feeding... I drop a lot of doe on nutes but this shit is way out of my price range for my Drain to Waste sytems. I would have to drop like 1,200 bucks on their "steriods". I would be very interested to see these products tested.

Be careful with the gravity if you arent lifting your lights as they suggest
(i dont lift my lights but i use a really low dose for a longer period of time)

i have never tried out any flushing products because im pretty sure it isnt anything worth doing but i could be wrong about that. If i had a bad burn then maybe i would give it a try.

Otherwise just mix up a really, really, low dose of nutes and flush with that (thats probably what the flushing products are anyhow?)
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
Alright jberry need a bit of help again, got a mag def should i buy some cal/mag. If so how much, im using a+b @20m/10L, full boost and full pk in 3rd week of flower nice1 mate
yea, get some cal/mag or i like MagiCal.... or Cutting Edge Solutions makes a high quality mag called Mag Amped that is great stuff but pricey... it does last forever tho.... but yea, cal/mag would be fine.

start at like 2ml per gal. or if you have a ppm meter then add around 200ml of cal/mag.... Always add your cal/mag first (b4 nutes)
 
This thread has been extremely helpful thank you to all that have contributed. I need to skim back through but if anyone could post a link to a good online retailer for Canna products I'd really appreciate it!
 

RockstarEnergy

Well-Known Member

growbuddy

Active Member
Here is a look at my Purple kush in canna coco with Canna coco Nutes,

A, B, riz, can, boost, pk. 200$

Day 40 of Flowering
 

Don Gin and Ton

Well-Known Member
oh well £40 down the drain hahaha

well i think ill do a side by side with my next round of clones and see what comes of it. cheers for the honest reply tho jb

as a foliar spray you say eh 2ml per gallon, so thats like.44 ml to a litre yeah
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
oops, i gave u the ml per gal. for Rhizotonic, NOT boost... (its been a while since ive used the boost) and i wouldnt say its a complete loss, every strain will react differently when it comes to the bio-boost. I wouldnt be surprised if oil production and taste is improved, but it is still very pricey imo.

here is the correct info for both the Boost and Rhizo when it comes to foliar feeds:

*Approximately 2 ml/gal on the Rhizotonic, but can vary up or down based on the sensitivity of the plant to translaminer movement. The hormones and some vitamins will be what is taken up and they work at very low levels. However, if needed you can go up but the high limit will be about half of the normal amount used for root feeding. This is a growers choice. I would not apply it in flower for many reasons as a foliar.

You can adjust the pH but gently and make it come in around 7 or a little higher. You only have to be close. After about the second week past flower initiation I would not use it foliar anymore but you should use it from the beginning foliar. Apply about 3 times per week or every other day.

**Boost is a bit different; use it at the low rate, (8 ml/gal) applied every other day. It has little EC and will not affect the plant to much. Also, only adjust the pH if it is way out of bounds but if between 5.2 and 7.9 don't worry about it. Apply from the point of photoperiod change to about 1 week prior to harvest.

If you begin to see residues, and you might, wash the leaves with water to the point of dripping prior to re-appling the products. Only wet the leaves very close to the lights coming on when room temps are cooler and there is sufficent time for the leaves to dry before dark. Avoid directly spraying flowers and fruit as this may change taste and allow opportunity for disease to develop.

I wouldnt foliar past week 4 or so personally.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
WATER SOURCE: We design our Canna products for less than perfect water. Also, nutrients work best with some pH controls in the water especially Calcium. However, we advise using a source water that is about 0.2 EC or just below 200 ppm with most of this coming from Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg). This is important, and the level of Ca is important because both pH and minor elements can be effected by this mineral.

CALCIUM: Nutrients are built, and plants will develop based on ratio's of elements to each other with the element that is in shorter supply being the limiting agent for plant development.

Ca in high amounts will lock out Potassium (K). It also affects Phosphorous (P) availability resulting in reduced energy. Mixing Ca and PK in high enough amounts will result in the formation of percipitates (clouding). Many times the CA is the trigger.

"Cal Mag Plus" and "MagiCal" has other things in it... especially Iron, Nitrogen and another group they do not identify, including sulfur.
Again, these can cause additional ratio and lock out issues. Both of these products change values and make end prediction tough at best.
Iron in excess will cause toxicity. The proper way to mix if needed is to add it to the source water to achieve roughly 0.2 EC, mix then add the rest.

All our products have more than enough Ca, Mg and everything else to do the job IF the 0.2 EC of mainly Ca and Mg is available in the initial water source... This we are 100% certain of.

This causes a gradual and persistent low Ca condition which would show a difference in the final weight of the plant. There is also another question that can and does go hand-in-hand with this one: poor water relations. Ca and water move with, and are affected by each other... Too much or too little have effects:

If I inhibit water uptake by reducing Ca availability, the roots look fine but water moves slower and so, too, all other minerals.
If I dry out OR over water a plant, even just a little, I will cause the same issue.
If I increase Ca to offset the loss, I get results;
if I overdo the Ca at the beginning to offset a future problem, I get horrble things happening.
From, odd greening patterns on the leaves, strap leaves, spots, browning spots, distortion, etc,

If you are having problems, I suggest your cure most probably lies in bringing the initial EC of the source water to 0.2, go back to the normal feed chart, water consistantly (same point of dryness) and at the right time (50% of water applied is used before the next irrigation), never use plain water to flush, keep humidity 50 - 60% day and below 80% at dark.

OTHER TIPS: the total EC will be brought up by the CalMag and PK so dont burn your plants.

PK tends to be best used in a 7 - 10 day window starting about the time you see first flower formation. This typically, on an 8 week flower response group, to be about 5 weeks before harvest or 2-3 weeks after flower initiation (not the light change)...

Adding a powerful PK early will not advance flower initiation (as many companies are claiming), only the amount of dark the plant sees will effect flower initiation. Adding it early could result in phosphate accumulation and ratio issues in Ca and Mg as described earlier.

Also, watch the light height, excess temperatures will cause issues and remember that a leaf focuses light energy into its mesophyll, the area between the leaf outside layer. The temperatures inside run 10 - 15 degrees F higher than ambient air. Watch the light distance!

:leaf:
 

RockstarEnergy

Well-Known Member
jberry, i gave the first feeding of canna nutes tuesday morning and my plants already doing sooo much better! growth is exploding now. :bigjoint:
 

wisdom62

Member
I am currently using the entire Canna Terra line of products. My plants are in Week 6 of Flowering and are looking great.

I was wondering if any here has feed their plants with a Higher Dose of Canna Nutrients then what is on the bottles?

I had ZERO nutrient burn during my entire grow and it seems like my plants would actually benefit from a slightly higher dose of Terra Flores.

So let me know if any of you have feed their plants more then the bottle says and what your results were.

Thanks
 

Sheepy

Member
I've just planted my seed in the canna coco medium.... What next? Been told canna coco A+B? When do I start give them this? Shud I water my seedlings now?
 

growbuddy

Active Member
what should the ph be for flowering using canna coco and canna coco nutes? 5.8?

I heard it is good to raise it up to about 6 halfway into flowering so the roots can pull in more p and k? what do you think
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
I've just planted my seed in the canna coco medium.... What next? Been told canna coco A+B? When do I start give them this? Shud I water my seedlings now?

wet the coco if you didnt already.

you shouldnt need any nutes for another week or two, then start them weak (like 1/4 strength)
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
what should the ph be for flowering using canna coco and canna coco nutes? 5.8?

I heard it is good to raise it up to about 6 halfway into flowering so the roots can pull in more p and k? what do you think
i doubt u will see any noticible difference between 5.8 and 6.0 but you could give it a try without causing much trouble.

i roll with anything between 5.6 and 6.0... just getting it close is good enough and the extra PH Up and Down are more likely to cause ill effects then a PH that is slightly off.

:peace:
 

growbuddy

Active Member
I have a question for jberry,

this is my first grow with coco and Canna COCO nutes, and I want to know from an experienced coco grower what their harvest/curing / flushing schedual is?

how to flush?
flush with distilled or very low ppm drinking water?
and for how long to flush?
I am almost at 7 weeks flowering time with my indicas, querkle and purple kush.

Thanks alot
 

Attachments

RockstarEnergy

Well-Known Member
Can anyone tell me if somethings wrong with my plant? the leaves have been curled/droopy since about 2 weeks ago. i water every other day when the pot gets light. i have been having problems with my temps, they vary from 76-85 and the humidity is 30% cuz its winter and my house is dry. it seems to be growing fine, its green and no burn spots. no matter what i do it always looks droopy
 

Attachments

lordj

Active Member
Can anyone tell me if somethings wrong with my plant? the leaves have been curled/droopy since about 2 weeks ago. i water every other day when the pot gets light. i have been having problems with my temps, they vary from 76-85 and the humidity is 30% cuz its winter and my house is dry. it seems to be growing fine, its green and no burn spots. no matter what i do it always looks droopy

Do you have an oscillating fan on them? This strengthens the stems. Ideal humidity is 40%-60% and try to keep the temps under 80º. Are you ducting the heat out? Saw the tube in your pic. Also, didn't see a water catch tray in the pic(?)
 

RockstarEnergy

Well-Known Member
Do you have an oscillating fan on them? This strengthens the stems. Ideal humidity is 40%-60% and try to keep the temps under 80º. Are you ducting the heat out? Saw the tube in your pic. Also, didn't see a water catch tray in the pic(?)
theres no oscillating fan but i have a little 50mm pc fan blowing on it(thats all the fits in the cab). that tube is for the intake and yes theres another one in the back on the exhaust ducting the warm air up and away from it. if you're talking about a tray for the pot, there is one i just didnt take it out for the picture.
 
Top