The Official House and Garden Thread
- Thread starter purrrrple
- Start date
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
Looks great! Id dump the roots excel though. Just my view based on me using it and other root enhancers.
Agente
Active Member
Thank you my brother!
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
This is all i use now, I used their whole line up years ago. Oh and i do use the shooting powder.
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Agente
Active Member
I'll just use those quoted nutz ..
The shooting read a lot about the dreads "foxtails" of that product, an hour I'll use it.
Thanks brother!
Agente
Active Member
I want to be like you in relation to the products. 3 to 4 important products that works.
Less is more.
we are together.
Snail1976
Active Member
I have a couple of soil questions. I’m just about ready to start my second little auto flower grow of 3, maybe 4 plants total. My first didn’t flower out very well but I had to use potting soil. I know, I know, regular potting soil if no good but I had to go with what was easy to get.
I have cows and feed them big round bales of hay. Of course they poop all around them so I always have hay mixed with poop that they curn up into mud where the hay ring sits. By the end of the next fall, all of that has turned into a very rich soil. I’ve collected plenty of that soil and am going to mix in perlite. My first question is:
1-That would be 100% organic soil, right? A super soil?
2- Will I still still need to feed nutrients?
3- will this be too rich for seedlings?
PS: I do know that it should be loaded with nitrogen.
I have cows and feed them big round bales of hay. Of course they poop all around them so I always have hay mixed with poop that they curn up into mud where the hay ring sits. By the end of the next fall, all of that has turned into a very rich soil. I’ve collected plenty of that soil and am going to mix in perlite. My first question is:
1-That would be 100% organic soil, right? A super soil?
2- Will I still still need to feed nutrients?
3- will this be too rich for seedlings?
PS: I do know that it should be loaded with nitrogen.
i would maybe cut it 1:1 with some worm castings but it should be fine. animal manure should be aged a minimum of a year to be considered good compost i think. then use 1 part peat moss 1 part compost/castings 1 part aeration.
GaiaGrower
New Member
Roots Excel used to be the best root growth product on the market. They changed the formula due to something. No one knows and it couldn't be reverse engineered because of the Humid acid in it. I spent about a year along with talking to my favorite H&G rep at all the shows. I personally don't believe it had anything to do with benificial. But since I have no clue I'm not going to say it was an illegal PGR or PGH or Auxin of some type but whatever it was is night and day from the product it once was. I still can remember the old formula smell and the absolutely incredible mass of white health roots and the Humic acid should have gave it a slight brown tint but didn't in old formula. I like the guys at H $ G and they have some great products like shooting powder but the drped the ball big time with the RE or shouldn't have made the original formula with whatever they had to take out.
And just like Big Mike came out and said it was a better product then anything AN could produce , house and Garden should have the balls and be come out and be honest to all those of us that put bread and butter on their table and let people know what really happened. If they can't tell us the truth than how can we trust them with any other products they sell ??? My 2 cents...
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Cool story bro, a classic by now.
Ridiculous. And so dramatic. Being able to produce something better than AN is a given for most and does not lead to an obligation to respond to a silly rumor. Go fish some plastic out of the ocean.
kingzt
Well-Known Member
How do you like the multi zen compared to other enzymes?
Snail1976
Active Member
The compost is one year old. Thanks for the tips.
Hibister
Member
Hi newbie here to the forum and growing herb in general. I grow exotic tropical hibiscus for the great flowers. Browsed this forum in the past and most H&G searching leads me to this thread.
I starting growing my own personal herb in dry semi super soil and hydro soil to see what will do best in my conditions and how the quality of the final product turns out. I have hibiscus in the same garden as my herb getting the same treatment. Dry soil receives Soil A/B and hydro (high O2) receives Aqua Flakes.
Since I started using Aqua Flakes I have noticed higher pH climbs in shorter amounts of time. The pH climb is keeping me busy having to adjust down more often. I understand high O2 will drive pH,maybe I'm using to much air.
My previous nutrient line held pH better both in DWC 1.5qt cloner and hydro soil. It wasn't a set and forget for the week but could manage easier less often.
I tried a few combinations of R.O. water and filtered tap water to begin my starting water at 70-100ppm but that just helped the pH from dropping when I add A/B. I like as it limits pH buffers or none at all!
I have some H&G pH stabilizer to try but not thrilled about adding more additives and I have 2 clean water sources so there is really no need for the pH stabilizer.
I just flipped into flower 1 White Rhino 30week Veg dry Soil A/B and #2 Rhino (daughter) 10 week Veg hydro soil on Aqua Flakes.
Does anyone else notice pH rise quicker with Aqua Flakes in high O2 systems an can it be controlled easier without a automatic pH control?
I try the pH stabilizer next water change and see if that helps.
Thank you
I starting growing my own personal herb in dry semi super soil and hydro soil to see what will do best in my conditions and how the quality of the final product turns out. I have hibiscus in the same garden as my herb getting the same treatment. Dry soil receives Soil A/B and hydro (high O2) receives Aqua Flakes.
Since I started using Aqua Flakes I have noticed higher pH climbs in shorter amounts of time. The pH climb is keeping me busy having to adjust down more often. I understand high O2 will drive pH,maybe I'm using to much air.
My previous nutrient line held pH better both in DWC 1.5qt cloner and hydro soil. It wasn't a set and forget for the week but could manage easier less often.
I tried a few combinations of R.O. water and filtered tap water to begin my starting water at 70-100ppm but that just helped the pH from dropping when I add A/B. I like as it limits pH buffers or none at all!
I have some H&G pH stabilizer to try but not thrilled about adding more additives and I have 2 clean water sources so there is really no need for the pH stabilizer.
I just flipped into flower 1 White Rhino 30week Veg dry Soil A/B and #2 Rhino (daughter) 10 week Veg hydro soil on Aqua Flakes.
Does anyone else notice pH rise quicker with Aqua Flakes in high O2 systems an can it be controlled easier without a automatic pH control?
I try the pH stabilizer next water change and see if that helps.
Thank you
Hibister
Member
Kingzt, I just switched from Multizen to Bud XL in week 4 and 24hrs after dose my rhinos smell sweet. Sweet like the usual rhino I'm familiar with. Could just be it was that time but I noticed quickly after dosing with Bud XL
Just an update on the pH Stabilizer with Aqua Flakes to help keep it stable.
I tried out the Stabilizer for a coupe of water changes in both DWC cloner and hydro soil with high air system. The problem I was having was that pH was climbing way to fast.
The pH Stabilizer definetly helped in my 2qt. DWC cloner in a light solution of Aqua Flakes.
Now, for the part I actually care about hydro soil. The pH stabilizer did absolutely nothing to hydro soil. Everytime I water change, do random pH checks or add nutrients pH to 5.0 it all test or drains out 7.0 neutral. The soil was 6.3 at the start of grow and by the end of veg it completely neutralized itself. I'm still trying to figure this one out could be the live soil microbes ecosystem at work. I do think this will set up for good PK absorption when I start adding Top Booster and Shooting Power.
Also wanted to mention I chose H&G because I been familiar with it for 8 years but never had a reason to use it. It comes highly recommend to me because I want a quality finished product. I have an appreciation for science, chemistry, raw materials, and knowing its made in USA by a brainy mad chemists ever batch is hand made and verified just to give me a piece of mind. I could care less about the fertilizer ratio numbers. It's not important to me because there is no standard in the industry when company's label there nutrient % values.
The important thing I look for is the actual ratio. To me it's all about the K so I look for fertilizer with high K, medium to low amounts of N, and always low P.
For example ratios of 3-1-7 or 17-5-25 high K, med N, low P. for my base nutrients.
For someone like myself that has not experienced H&G to see it in action is really mind blowing.
Just an update on the pH Stabilizer with Aqua Flakes to help keep it stable.
I tried out the Stabilizer for a coupe of water changes in both DWC cloner and hydro soil with high air system. The problem I was having was that pH was climbing way to fast.
The pH Stabilizer definetly helped in my 2qt. DWC cloner in a light solution of Aqua Flakes.
Now, for the part I actually care about hydro soil. The pH stabilizer did absolutely nothing to hydro soil. Everytime I water change, do random pH checks or add nutrients pH to 5.0 it all test or drains out 7.0 neutral. The soil was 6.3 at the start of grow and by the end of veg it completely neutralized itself. I'm still trying to figure this one out could be the live soil microbes ecosystem at work. I do think this will set up for good PK absorption when I start adding Top Booster and Shooting Power.
Also wanted to mention I chose H&G because I been familiar with it for 8 years but never had a reason to use it. It comes highly recommend to me because I want a quality finished product. I have an appreciation for science, chemistry, raw materials, and knowing its made in USA by a brainy mad chemists ever batch is hand made and verified just to give me a piece of mind. I could care less about the fertilizer ratio numbers. It's not important to me because there is no standard in the industry when company's label there nutrient % values.
The important thing I look for is the actual ratio. To me it's all about the K so I look for fertilizer with high K, medium to low amounts of N, and always low P.
For example ratios of 3-1-7 or 17-5-25 high K, med N, low P. for my base nutrients.
For someone like myself that has not experienced H&G to see it in action is really mind blowing.
kingzt
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply, I am really enjoying both multizen and bud xl. Haven't seen the benefits from bud xl yet but I will when I throw my soilless plants in flower. Multizen works well, I had a couple plants that I overwatered and some of the roots got a little brown. After letting them dry out a bit, I used multi zen and cleaned those roots right up. I have noticed to that the ph rises quite quickly while sitting in the res. Didn't know h&g made a ph stabilizer
Snail1976
Active Member
budman111
Well-Known Member
It is night and day compared to what you do used to get before the additive removal from the recipe like you say massive furry white roots as white as snow but now it's a run of the mill root simulator.