The UK Growers Thread!

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
Hey bud they're looking well, fwiw I'd keep the nutrient if the plants look ok, or maybe use it on vegging plants if you suspect there could be some issue besides the dye?
 

polska86

Well-Known Member
Hey bud they're looking well, fwiw I'd keep the nutrient if the plants look ok, or maybe use it on vegging plants if you suspect there could be some issue besides the dye?
No I don't think any issue my trays still look clear aswell, specially for me just running the pump as and when am in the room, its a big pump I worry once res gets so low the water will fountain by the power of pump haha
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
No I don't think any issue my trays still look clear aswell, specially for me just running the pump as and when am in the room, its a big pump I worry once res gets so low the water will fountain by the power of pump haha
Hey bud, I forgot to add I usually run my pumps 24hrs outside summer, they heat up nutrient so in summer it's worth using a cycle timer to keep nutrient agitated and also prevent overheating it.

Fwiw I've a piece of hose connected to the pumps so nutrient gets pushed down when the reservoir is running low.

Both are sump feeding pumps they work in as little as 0.5" of nutrient so they don't ever run dry, the amount of nutrient left in the tank is enough to keep them wet/cooled.

Jfc I mentioned canna in relation to calmag idk how but it slipped my mind I'm actually using hydrocrop powder nutrient for this run.
 

polska86

Well-Known Member
Hey bud, I forgot to add I usually run my pumps 24hrs outside summer, they heat up nutrient so in summer it's worth using a cycle timer to keep nutrient agitated and also prevent overheating it.

Fwiw I've a piece of hose connected to the pumps so nutrient gets pushed down when the reservoir is running low.

Both are sump feeding pumps they work in as little as 0.5" of nutrient so they don't ever run dry, the amount of nutrient left in the tank is enough to keep them wet/cooled.

Jfc I mentioned canna in relation to calmag idk how but it slipped my mind I'm actually using hydrocrop powder nutrient for this run.

Yeah mine is sump feeding and same the amount of water left should not go dry u less it does fountain out, il have to add sum hose and direct it horizontally rather then up to the top
 

TheWholeTruth

Well-Known Member
I can't remember if mentioned I tried 11/13 after putting them to flower?
I vegged in 12-12 then 11/13 after sexing and re potting to flower.

I made some minor changes but it's much the same as previous crops except the 11/13 hrs.

Idk for sure what's responsible until i repeat it but it appears that 11/13 speeds things up.
At 7/8 weeks I've got 2 plants harvested and another 2 that'll be ready anytime soon?
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#2
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This new to me, never have I had plants looking near ready at wk 7/8 the only major changes I made was changing the timer to 11/13.
View attachment 5395065
I had a feeling that YouTube dude knew his way around a plant.
If you're bored it's worth a listen
You can finish the plant much much faster with 2 hours light on a day all the way through if you want. The plant will ripen quick time and in week 4 or 5 would probably be done compared to a plant under 12/12 in wk 4-5
You did mention this before, i remember. Those results from that picture you put up are kind of deciving with the wa y they presented these results and the information they present, so you probably shouldnt take them and their studies as too serrious. I did explain back when you asked about this before. We have known as a comunity for along long time that as the days start to rapidly get shorter going into autumn/ winter the plant recognises this and will rapidly start to ripen. The more dark hours the more flowering hormone is pushed to finish the plant. So indoors this knowledge we all used this to manipulate and do what we call switch to flowering/force flowering the plant and we can change how quickly the plant is pushed through its flower cycle by acumilating more dark hours in the plant or more light hours. But this comes at a price eg if you want to finsh a plant you normaly get say a 100gr from in 9wk flower with 2h light on only every day for the plant you might finish it in 4-5 wks but itl costs you yield and you will probably end up with 10gr. You can also up yields with adding more light hours but you have to be carefull and know your veg trigger points. So you could flower that example plant you was geting the 100g from with normal 12/12 in 9 week and flower a cut of it in 13.45 hrs light on every day and you should up your yield by the percentage of light hours youve increased over the flower cycle. But this would also lengthen the flowering time. So wen the community were first forced to start growing indoors they worked out through trial and eror that to get the best yield vs time it takes to flower vs without trapping into semi veg and causing other issues vs best structure , as the structure of the bud can changes too as more flowring hormone finishin rapid fast would give a small tighter looking bud. The more you push the light hours towards near those veg trigger hours the more loser the structure might look. The best results all round for multiple types indoors to get the best you could indoors was 12-12.
But good to see you experimenting as thats how i lernt how to manipulate the plants to the way i would want. Most indicas i grown on 13 or 13.5 hrs on in flower an if done right it gives me more yield and with out reflowering silly over and over or going back into veg. By the way the plants look cool. Im a bit jell as ive only got about 3 day worth now till a couple months. They do look good. Hows the smell on the mutant blueberry please ?
 

Star Dog

Well-Known Member
Hello @TheWholeTruth thanks dude, the coastal blueberry has sweet hashy/earthy aroma, I've just harvested it I'll get a smoke of it next week (fingers crossed)

Jfc I'm less concerned with yeild atm the aim of that crop was find the best cheese + a couple of others since the light was on, having them finish earlier was more important than a heavy yeild.

Maybe I explained myself poorly when I spoke to you last but basically that YouTube dude says the same thing as you in regards to yeild, they're growing for a commercial setting where it's 8wks and chopped, iirc the yeild is less per plant but works out more per year per mtr or something like that, there's also a mention of the overall quality (for 8 weeks) and the trimming time required.

I didn't expect 1 hour to make such a difference, it's all been interesting I'm enjoying the learning curve.

Is 3/4 weeks off flowering time normal with 11/13?
It seems drastic to me I wondered if the plants size had anything to do with it?
The average for me is around 11wks and regularly a bit more so 7wks comes as shock!

Thanks
 
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Lemon king

Well-Known Member
Hey bud, yes I'm using them, this is my 1st full crop with autopots.

It's going well with a few exceptions.
View attachment 5394756
I tried epsom and calmag but it made no odds, it's really odd since it's only 4 plants and all others were fine, they're in the above post?

When calmag and epsom didn't work I ignored them, my thinking was I'll ruin the others trying to correct the problem, it's not been easy but I've managed to pretend they don't exist :bigjoint:
We call those ones "finickey" lol.....

good to see you back!
 

Lemon king

Well-Known Member
We're u adding all cal mag through flower as on shogun it says not to on there calculator but I been debating hoying sum in my res as think they shoukd be getting sum

That bud does look sound on then although the leafs don't, but I see an American on insta and his leafs always look yellow but the bud looks fire on auto pots
sometimes the calculator doesn't tick the calmag box automatically when using the calculator if on a phone....

Doubble check this....
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Hey bud, I was going to use a big syringe but it's a pain to reach the pots at the back, if i nudged the valve it refills lol.

Yesterday I checked the affected sites to see if they were completely full but one was close to refilling and another was around half way.

For the other pots I lifted the floats so they could fill up then turned it off until this morning then turned it back on and checked them, they appear to be working ok.

Cheers bud
Have you got the standard 2" of clay balls in the base of the pots?
 

Lemon king

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know anyway to upload videos on here thats not via YouTube link?

I tried to upload a vid to YouTube and link it here but the quality was terrible.

How many of you guys mix and match nutrients?
 

polska86

Well-Known Member
sometimes the calculator doesn't tick the calmag box automatically when using the calculator if on a phone....

Doubble check this....
I did mate and it wasn't on, I still added the amount it stated in week 4 of veg. Iv just ended my first week of 12/12...
Il get a pic when lights out later to see the colour of leafs at the minute
 

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polska86

Well-Known Member
Not heard of the air bases.
I never used the domes.

The 2" of hydroton is to slow the wicking down so they don't get wet feet.

Least that was the instructions when I bought mine, but that was maybe over 8 year ago at a guess.

Haven't used them for a long long time.
These are the air bases to save the need of the hydroton
 

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Star Dog

Well-Known Member
@coreywebster hey bud, yes I've got 2" of perlite in all but 2.

I also used some fibrous coco with a square of capillary matt over it and topped with regular coco and I've another with just coco and wicks out of the bottom of the pot with a square of capillary in the bottom to help distribute nutrient?
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When a pot is put inside a 2nd pot it's held just above the high water mark imo its absolutely perfect for a wick set up.
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The 2 most affected sites are set up in the recommended way with 2" perlite, however the pots set up with coco and capillary matt are looking well, I'm happy with the capillary in particular it's really convenient to set up and it avoids anything to do with, perlite, hydroton or wet feet.
 
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polska86

Well-Known Member
@coreywebster hey bud, yes I've got 2" of perlite in all but 2.

I also used some fibrous coco with a square of capillary matt over it and topped with regular coco and I've another with just coco and wicks out of the bottom of the pot with a square of capillary in the bottom to help distribute nutrient?
View attachment 5395539
When a pot is put inside a 2nd pot it's held just above the high water mark imo its absolutely perfect for a wick set up.
View attachment 5395622
The 2 most affected sites are set up in the recommended way with 2" perlite, however the pots set up with coco and capillary matt are looking well, I'm happy with the capillary in particular it's really convenient to set up and it avoids anything to do with, perlite, hydroton or wet feet.

That is a good idea aswell, mine have done about 60-70 liters now ad say in 8 days I don't think my 100ltr will last the 10 days I am away so gona look for a bigger butt I think
 
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