The Vapor Volumes by Vlad
- Thread starter VladFromOG
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VladFromOG
Active Member
Why yes, I am still here. Just not all the time, but I do pop my head in time to time, answering qs when I can. Working on getting pics for vapor volumes. Mostly wrapped up irl.
Qwiso, I see some blocked replies from you. Lol decided to do some trolling did you? Or just trying to convince folks again that technical grade hexane (95 percent) is good enough for patients not to bother with a clean plate test to test for unevaporatable contaminants....lmao I knew from the moment you insisted that that you were just in it for the trollolololol. Well, I can't see your comments, and anyone else whose interested in the sort of things I am interested in sharing is smart enough to see through your bs, so have a great night and kindly be bitchy elsewhere.
Qwiso, I see some blocked replies from you. Lol decided to do some trolling did you? Or just trying to convince folks again that technical grade hexane (95 percent) is good enough for patients not to bother with a clean plate test to test for unevaporatable contaminants....lmao I knew from the moment you insisted that that you were just in it for the trollolololol. Well, I can't see your comments, and anyone else whose interested in the sort of things I am interested in sharing is smart enough to see through your bs, so have a great night and kindly be bitchy elsewhere.
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
Nope acs reagent over here
Aaand blocked replies?....nah all here....at least mine are
Lol...
I would be more than happy to break down your posts..but it will probly get nasty.....and will lead to blocked posts.....though my posts are all there from last time I "corrected" you
I just came over here cause I saw people I knew accept your posts for fact...I generally stay out of peoples threads....so I'll go now
Aaand blocked replies?....nah all here....at least mine are
Lol...
I would be more than happy to break down your posts..but it will probly get nasty.....and will lead to blocked posts.....though my posts are all there from last time I "corrected" you
I just came over here cause I saw people I knew accept your posts for fact...I generally stay out of peoples threads....so I'll go now
greenghost420
Well-Known Member
what did vlad post that was false?
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
"so when you roast a bowl with a Bic lighter (flame temp:3500 degrees), you destroy most of the goodies.
Vaporizers address this by (ideally) never getting above 500 degrees or by using indirect heat."
"Whenever you raise somethings temperature above its combustion point it generates CO, Benzene, soot, and awhole host of other nasty carcinogenic things,and that is true for marijuana, too."
at the end of your process, however you purge, whatever solvent you used, the physical form of that extract is dependent upon the ratio of its constituent cannabinoids. For example, a sativah strain that is high in THC and low in CBD and CBN will yield an extract that is fluffy and jiggly to powdered, light yellow to white, aka“Budder”, not because of some mystical process, but because that’s the natural physical form of THC. An Indicathat is high in CBD will be chunky and brown “earwax”, and no amount of voodoo will change that.
A ruderalis .. will always yield a sticky thin brown oil “shatter”. You can alter the ratios through isomerization (more on that later), but you simply will not get Budder from sleepy ditch
weed
The process for butane/co2 is simple: liquid solvent rushes over the plant material, bursting the cell membranes with cold and extracting out only the lipids
Whatever solvent you use and even if you use one of the three cleaning methods listed above, the result will be less pure than the lipid only extractions,about on par with the various hashes
using only the keif, you avoid the parts of the plants that are highest in secondary cannabinoids
isopropanol extractions are green to black without further purification
the truth is, THC is a powdery, white, semi crystalline solid.
Shatter is a dark glassy oil that is tactically similar to silly putty - its will bend under moderate force, then snap and break under more force. It occurs in oils that have a >25%CBN/other oils content and less than 30%THC
The high shatter produces is not euphoric, in fact it can be downright disphoric, but it will make you sleep like nothing else. Instant couch-lock,but not really enjoyable as you just space out, there’s non of that creative thinking etc you would expect from earwax or budder, but shatter has its uses.
Most butane on the market, even those aimed at the BHO medical community, are loaded with industrial lubricant oils. The reason for this, is that butane’s legitimate use is filling lighters, and the lubrication helps preserve the life of the lighter.
All of the above is incorrect in various ways...I don't really have the time to explain each and every point...but I will give a couple examples..a BIC lighter actually burns at about 500 degrees..another basic example is fade did the mystery oil test and none of the brands had lubricant .. . One more my avatar was white powder on a blade..he says iso extracts are dark and less potent and that iso oxidizes thc on contact lmao..basic chemistry disagrees and in fact are the best way to store hash long term.....he also refers to thc as a lipid along with the other desirable compounds....I mean seriously....I haven't found a single sentence I agree with
Um that's half of his first post.....literally every post of his is riddled with bad info...more so the ones talking about chemistry/processes or anything other than smoking utensils and vapes
All kinds of absurd statements especially in the other thread
Vaporizers address this by (ideally) never getting above 500 degrees or by using indirect heat."
"Whenever you raise somethings temperature above its combustion point it generates CO, Benzene, soot, and awhole host of other nasty carcinogenic things,and that is true for marijuana, too."
at the end of your process, however you purge, whatever solvent you used, the physical form of that extract is dependent upon the ratio of its constituent cannabinoids. For example, a sativah strain that is high in THC and low in CBD and CBN will yield an extract that is fluffy and jiggly to powdered, light yellow to white, aka“Budder”, not because of some mystical process, but because that’s the natural physical form of THC. An Indicathat is high in CBD will be chunky and brown “earwax”, and no amount of voodoo will change that.
A ruderalis .. will always yield a sticky thin brown oil “shatter”. You can alter the ratios through isomerization (more on that later), but you simply will not get Budder from sleepy ditch
weed
The process for butane/co2 is simple: liquid solvent rushes over the plant material, bursting the cell membranes with cold and extracting out only the lipids
Whatever solvent you use and even if you use one of the three cleaning methods listed above, the result will be less pure than the lipid only extractions,about on par with the various hashes
using only the keif, you avoid the parts of the plants that are highest in secondary cannabinoids
isopropanol extractions are green to black without further purification
the truth is, THC is a powdery, white, semi crystalline solid.
Shatter is a dark glassy oil that is tactically similar to silly putty - its will bend under moderate force, then snap and break under more force. It occurs in oils that have a >25%CBN/other oils content and less than 30%THC
The high shatter produces is not euphoric, in fact it can be downright disphoric, but it will make you sleep like nothing else. Instant couch-lock,but not really enjoyable as you just space out, there’s non of that creative thinking etc you would expect from earwax or budder, but shatter has its uses.
Most butane on the market, even those aimed at the BHO medical community, are loaded with industrial lubricant oils. The reason for this, is that butane’s legitimate use is filling lighters, and the lubrication helps preserve the life of the lighter.
All of the above is incorrect in various ways...I don't really have the time to explain each and every point...but I will give a couple examples..a BIC lighter actually burns at about 500 degrees..another basic example is fade did the mystery oil test and none of the brands had lubricant .. . One more my avatar was white powder on a blade..he says iso extracts are dark and less potent and that iso oxidizes thc on contact lmao..basic chemistry disagrees and in fact are the best way to store hash long term.....he also refers to thc as a lipid along with the other desirable compounds....I mean seriously....I haven't found a single sentence I agree with
Um that's half of his first post.....literally every post of his is riddled with bad info...more so the ones talking about chemistry/processes or anything other than smoking utensils and vapes
All kinds of absurd statements especially in the other thread
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
"The Myth of Winterizing Icant believe I have to explain this, but a lot of folks have been popping up promotingthis “winterizing” process, and its something that just doesnt make sense if youre using pure butane, but it starts to become clear if youre using impure butane. Let me make this very clear: Taking BHO and dissolving it in ETO95% or ISO99% and freezing the solution, then filtering said solution with filter paper before evaping again does not remove butane or make the extract purer or remove any “waxes”. The waxes and plant oils that are dissolvedby butane dissolve even better in cold iso. Moreover, you've just added a liquid solvent into your oil, and it will now need to be purged and cured even longer thanoriginally with just the butane to remove the stubborn alcohol solvent from your oil. “But I tried the winterizing process and got a ton of waxy residue after filteringthe hash oil tincture, surely this means its removing heavy plant waxes?” you may be asking. I wouldlike topresent the following info if that is the case: I've performed the winterization on extracts I have made with pure iso-butane, andgotten zero particulate filtered out (no waxes etc). I have also winterized friends oils that were made withthe same herb but with impure n-butane mixes that didnt pass the clean plate test (Vector, you scumbags I'm looking at you), and gotten a large quantity of wax left in the paper. The reason? Shitty brands like Vector 5x have heavy industrial oils andlubricants for your lighter in with the butane (10g per 12oz gas), which isnt pure isobutane but a mix of hexane, n-butane, and similar, which may dissolve heavier waxes than pure isobutane does. So depending upon your butane source, you could be using a less selective gas solvent mix that (if it isnt Colibri) likely has some heavy industrial oils in it that would definitely be filtered by winterizing. Please note that Winterizing is not necessary when using pure butane, and it doesnt pull out all the impurities from an extract that was made with impure butane."
Bullshiiiiiiiiit!!
Bullshit
winterizing removes the fats,waxes and other lipophillic (fat loving)compounds. What makes them lipophillic or hydrophillic is based on polarity... butane is non polar (lipophillic) ethanol and iso are relatively polar, meaning they won't allow lipophillic substances...
Solubility is largely based on polarity and temp. so if you heat the polar ethanol or iso it will absorb the extract left from a butane wash. After freezing it the solubility of the waxes and fats decreases. These lipophillic non polar waxes precipitate as a solidout of the solution. It can then be filtered
The waxes and fats removed make up the harshness and congestive properties smoked hash oil can sometimes bring. This process does not remove terpenes and will drastically increase the quality of a butane(non polar) extract... if you start with an isoor etoh wash its not as necessary and shatter can easily be produced using a single polar wash.. iso in the middle of butane and ethanol polarity wise giving the best extract only using asingle wash......but for compounds such as thca and precursory cannabinoids to move about the plant (as well as all compounds within the plant) they must be relatively polar. Because of this iso or etohcan extract a dirty product if left in solvent too long....which is why a long soak in butane that's allowed to pull every last cannabinoid and wax/fat. And then winterized to remove the wax/fats will give a better yield of quality product than iso or etoh.
Fats and waxes are highly lipophillic. For a compound to have drug likeness it must be polar to aslight degree(allowing crossing of the blood brain barrier and to be soluble in the blood).. this slight polarity helps keep them in the ethanol as all cannabinoids have a hydroxyl group when the also lipophillic fats get pulled, the fats and waxes are also larger heavier compounds which hinders solubility. winterizing is how commercial perfume/essential oils are made, and if done properly will not harm the flavor, though Ishould mention the waxes and fats pulled often are somewhat fragrant.. It should be noted thc itself is an aromatic monoterpene, anything affecting flavor effects potency. I do all my extracts in the dark and under 70 degrees even in the purge. 75 degrees or so is when lighter terpenes began to volatize into the air (Ialso dry/cure at 70 or under for this reason)
polarity is relative, butane does not have a polar hydroxyl group -oh while iso and etoh do . This is responsible for iso's high boiling point, even though its molecular weight is very similar to butane. and why water boils at amuch higher temp, being muchlighter than butane or iso. Hydrogen bonding is the strongest intra molecular force. Imfs are what determine solubility. Their is no defining line between polar and non polar. Its how polar or non polar. To find out,the biggest clue is molecular structure. ch bonds are non polar making hexane with more carbon a better non polar solvent. These hydrocarbon solvents lack the polar hydroxyl group that water iso and ever clear have.. but for them to hold cannabinoids in suspension and dissolve them they must also have anon polar side,which is why you can't winterize in water...likewise You can't winterize in a completely non polar solvent either. Iso is actually quite non polar, so is ethanol. Look at a ph index polar water is 9iso somewhere around 4 etoh 6and butane 0.. this is just an estimate off memory.. Etoh is best, iso will work butane will not. This is because of the waxes increasing solubility in the non polar solvents.
Bull
Bullshit!
"take cannabinoids, guesstimate how much cyclo needed, mix, allow to sit for a long time, hope. The problem is BHO and similar extracts are extremely variable in terms of compound types and ratios, all with different sizes and cyclodextrin binding affinities. Luckily its a harmless if expensive sugar you are adding so you can overshoot wildly and still have a perfectly good water-dissolveable if...."
Thc cyclodextrins..haven't heard that in aminute...figured I would toss this out Aqueous solubility of THC increased to 1.65, 2.4, and 0.64 mg/mL in the presence of 25% w/vHPβCD, RMβCD,and SβCD, respectively. Significant degradation of -THC was not observed within the study period at the pH values studied, don't drop below ph1.2, ph is extremely important in solubility. Only stable up to a month (chilled and in the dark) and must be kept at ph of 2
I generally want a 500 mg drink maybe 300 for light weights..say you effectively get 1mg per ml and keep that soda at ph of 2 it wouldn't be all that potent...this isn't an effective method, which is why it hasn't been capitalized ....but it will work....33 tbsp per 16oz soda....yum
Definitely how I like my sodas I don't know about you
Bullshiiiiiiiiit!!
Bullshit
winterizing removes the fats,waxes and other lipophillic (fat loving)compounds. What makes them lipophillic or hydrophillic is based on polarity... butane is non polar (lipophillic) ethanol and iso are relatively polar, meaning they won't allow lipophillic substances...
Solubility is largely based on polarity and temp. so if you heat the polar ethanol or iso it will absorb the extract left from a butane wash. After freezing it the solubility of the waxes and fats decreases. These lipophillic non polar waxes precipitate as a solidout of the solution. It can then be filtered
The waxes and fats removed make up the harshness and congestive properties smoked hash oil can sometimes bring. This process does not remove terpenes and will drastically increase the quality of a butane(non polar) extract... if you start with an isoor etoh wash its not as necessary and shatter can easily be produced using a single polar wash.. iso in the middle of butane and ethanol polarity wise giving the best extract only using asingle wash......but for compounds such as thca and precursory cannabinoids to move about the plant (as well as all compounds within the plant) they must be relatively polar. Because of this iso or etohcan extract a dirty product if left in solvent too long....which is why a long soak in butane that's allowed to pull every last cannabinoid and wax/fat. And then winterized to remove the wax/fats will give a better yield of quality product than iso or etoh.
Fats and waxes are highly lipophillic. For a compound to have drug likeness it must be polar to aslight degree(allowing crossing of the blood brain barrier and to be soluble in the blood).. this slight polarity helps keep them in the ethanol as all cannabinoids have a hydroxyl group when the also lipophillic fats get pulled, the fats and waxes are also larger heavier compounds which hinders solubility. winterizing is how commercial perfume/essential oils are made, and if done properly will not harm the flavor, though Ishould mention the waxes and fats pulled often are somewhat fragrant.. It should be noted thc itself is an aromatic monoterpene, anything affecting flavor effects potency. I do all my extracts in the dark and under 70 degrees even in the purge. 75 degrees or so is when lighter terpenes began to volatize into the air (Ialso dry/cure at 70 or under for this reason)
polarity is relative, butane does not have a polar hydroxyl group -oh while iso and etoh do . This is responsible for iso's high boiling point, even though its molecular weight is very similar to butane. and why water boils at amuch higher temp, being muchlighter than butane or iso. Hydrogen bonding is the strongest intra molecular force. Imfs are what determine solubility. Their is no defining line between polar and non polar. Its how polar or non polar. To find out,the biggest clue is molecular structure. ch bonds are non polar making hexane with more carbon a better non polar solvent. These hydrocarbon solvents lack the polar hydroxyl group that water iso and ever clear have.. but for them to hold cannabinoids in suspension and dissolve them they must also have anon polar side,which is why you can't winterize in water...likewise You can't winterize in a completely non polar solvent either. Iso is actually quite non polar, so is ethanol. Look at a ph index polar water is 9iso somewhere around 4 etoh 6and butane 0.. this is just an estimate off memory.. Etoh is best, iso will work butane will not. This is because of the waxes increasing solubility in the non polar solvents.
Bull
Bullshit!
"take cannabinoids, guesstimate how much cyclo needed, mix, allow to sit for a long time, hope. The problem is BHO and similar extracts are extremely variable in terms of compound types and ratios, all with different sizes and cyclodextrin binding affinities. Luckily its a harmless if expensive sugar you are adding so you can overshoot wildly and still have a perfectly good water-dissolveable if...."
Thc cyclodextrins..haven't heard that in aminute...figured I would toss this out Aqueous solubility of THC increased to 1.65, 2.4, and 0.64 mg/mL in the presence of 25% w/vHPβCD, RMβCD,and SβCD, respectively. Significant degradation of -THC was not observed within the study period at the pH values studied, don't drop below ph1.2, ph is extremely important in solubility. Only stable up to a month (chilled and in the dark) and must be kept at ph of 2
I generally want a 500 mg drink maybe 300 for light weights..say you effectively get 1mg per ml and keep that soda at ph of 2 it wouldn't be all that potent...this isn't an effective method, which is why it hasn't been capitalized ....but it will work....33 tbsp per 16oz soda....yum
Definitely how I like my sodas I don't know about you
greenghost420
Well-Known Member
lol im def ammused. i just googled bic flame temp. one page had your quote of 450(f?), and others said 2000f and 450c. i have no degrees but i agree theres inconsistencies. some good info as well...
greenghost420
Well-Known Member
i had oil suspended in iso for 2 weeks that did degrade some but that oil was dank
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
"..that anaerobic burning is what causes butane lighters to produce soot or that black stuff if you put the flame under something, propane burns wonderfully clean but as you add carbon it needs more oxygen, as you go up it won't burn properly unless you add an oxidizer.. this is also why BIC lighters are only about 500 degrees instead of 3500 butane likes to burn at..(bics design limits oxygen,if you have a torch for dabbing with an adjuster you know what I'm talking about)"
There are no inconsistencies just that o2 is limited....they also make butane jet lighters...the only difference is o2 not limited as much and burns hotter as a result
I'm sure it did degrade....but studies have shown thc degradation and storage in a blacked out container of etoh and iso...a standard slab of hash thca only has a half life of 35 days and is completely done in a few months and trash in 4 years.....in solution thc didn't degrade whatsoever even at room temp....showing the stability when not allowed to oxidize in the presence of o2 and degrade with light...light is thcs arch enemy...
He says only iso degrades.....let's look at the chemical structure of both of these relatively similar alcohols and figure out why one degrades and the other doesn't?? Not that this is confirmed in any study...iso does not degrade instantly and on contact as he says...in fact thc is stable in it for many years
There are no inconsistencies just that o2 is limited....they also make butane jet lighters...the only difference is o2 not limited as much and burns hotter as a result
I'm sure it did degrade....but studies have shown thc degradation and storage in a blacked out container of etoh and iso...a standard slab of hash thca only has a half life of 35 days and is completely done in a few months and trash in 4 years.....in solution thc didn't degrade whatsoever even at room temp....showing the stability when not allowed to oxidize in the presence of o2 and degrade with light...light is thcs arch enemy...
He says only iso degrades.....let's look at the chemical structure of both of these relatively similar alcohols and figure out why one degrades and the other doesn't?? Not that this is confirmed in any study...iso does not degrade instantly and on contact as he says...in fact thc is stable in it for many years
greenghost420
Well-Known Member
it didnt degrade much, prob cause clear mason jar.
VladFromOG
Active Member
Qwiso. Me blocking you means I can't see your posts. So if these are direct replies to me, I see, nothing. Because, well, you don't know how to argue. You ignore experimental evidence in favor of pseudoscience gleaned from idiot forumers who think 800 degree red hot nails vaporize. I test my extracts for cannabinoid ratio, content and contaminants at the local mmj facility. I have tried multiple methods of extraction, from steam distilling (what perfumers use to get volitile scent oils from flowers - doesnt pick up enough heavy oils, is why i recommend the modified heating no solvent method) to evrry solvent under thesun and every post process (like winterizing, which I have found exclusively pulls out fats when used on extracts made with dirty solvent - clean solvents used and the oil will never leave any precipitate behind) and I have simply documented my findings. You may disagree about my conclusions, but the experimental evidence is compelling and moreover cannot simply be ignored to fit the childlike assumptions about the processes from oil makers who never fully learned the science behind basic extractions before they started playing around and trying to explain what they saw.
But all that pales in comparison to how delightfilly irresponsible you are. You say you make medicine for others and in the same breath will claim that the technical grade (95 percent) solvent you use is pure enough for medicine and has no possibility of being contamination with something other than solvent. Never mind that no lab in their right mind would use technical grade anything for a finished consumable product. Then you mocked me for suggesting a "clean plate test" to test your solvents purity. Not bc its a bad idea, but because you hadn't heard of it before. A quick google search shows the terms been in use since the seventies and several youtube video explanations. But the idiots who taught you the misinterpreted half made up pseudo science you take as holy writ about extractions didn't know about it, so it must be bullshit right?
So yeah, qwiso, what a joke. Idk why he's picked me to bitch about - besides the lovely gentleman helping get to the bottom of the butane mystery oil, I'm the only one here trying posting actual experimental results, instead of just swapping bs misunderstood theories with semiliterate netizens.
And there's my rant. Assholes like qwiso who reflexively hate any new or different info are why I'm so rarely on here. But I try not to let them get to me often, bc a lot of good people genuinely seem to benefit from my sharing so I will always do so.
Greenghost - oxygen is the key to oxidation. I find that an open container of iso or eto solution oxidizes much faster to dark brown cbn than a tincture of limonene or hexane. Uv light sources seem to make this even faster - a tray of iso tincture spread thin and left in the sun to evap will turn dsrk very fast, whereas I have a cleaning jar for my oil pipes that is full of iso tincture that has been sitting in the dark with limited air inside fora year and is still golden yellow. Always, if you avoid oxygen, you avoid oxidation. But I have found that certain solvents can speed up the reaction. I do not claim to fully know why some vs others are more quick at this.
But all that pales in comparison to how delightfilly irresponsible you are. You say you make medicine for others and in the same breath will claim that the technical grade (95 percent) solvent you use is pure enough for medicine and has no possibility of being contamination with something other than solvent. Never mind that no lab in their right mind would use technical grade anything for a finished consumable product. Then you mocked me for suggesting a "clean plate test" to test your solvents purity. Not bc its a bad idea, but because you hadn't heard of it before. A quick google search shows the terms been in use since the seventies and several youtube video explanations. But the idiots who taught you the misinterpreted half made up pseudo science you take as holy writ about extractions didn't know about it, so it must be bullshit right?
So yeah, qwiso, what a joke. Idk why he's picked me to bitch about - besides the lovely gentleman helping get to the bottom of the butane mystery oil, I'm the only one here trying posting actual experimental results, instead of just swapping bs misunderstood theories with semiliterate netizens.
And there's my rant. Assholes like qwiso who reflexively hate any new or different info are why I'm so rarely on here. But I try not to let them get to me often, bc a lot of good people genuinely seem to benefit from my sharing so I will always do so.
Greenghost - oxygen is the key to oxidation. I find that an open container of iso or eto solution oxidizes much faster to dark brown cbn than a tincture of limonene or hexane. Uv light sources seem to make this even faster - a tray of iso tincture spread thin and left in the sun to evap will turn dsrk very fast, whereas I have a cleaning jar for my oil pipes that is full of iso tincture that has been sitting in the dark with limited air inside fora year and is still golden yellow. Always, if you avoid oxygen, you avoid oxidation. But I have found that certain solvents can speed up the reaction. I do not claim to fully know why some vs others are more quick at this.
AlGore
Well-Known Member
All you seem to do is jump into peoples threads, throw up a bunch of garbage, and never back it up.
Prove it? Any of it?
Just cuz your iso says 99.953% anhydrous does not mean that it's free of impurity. It means its free of h20.
I specifically asked you for direct information about RSO and you just ran your mouth some more and said "I'm done". Meanwhile I'm trying get legit info on helping to treat cancer.
I'm betting your some douche in his early 20s that thinks he's god's gift to this community. When in reality your just a sad forum troll.
And Vlad... The term to describe him best I think would be, cognitive dissonance, at least that's what came to mind when you were describing him.
VladFromOG
Active Member
Thank you Gore. Cognitive dissonance describes it nicely. For the record, in some other thread he claimed to use technical grade hexane from sigma, which is listed at 95, that's why I brought it up. More of that dissonance, just to trollolol and have something to argue about.
ll post some links to reply to you in the updated thread later tonight when I go through my bookmarks, but ags glass, cornerstone glass, and the chinese make thw bowl and wand setups (love the term atom smasher, never heard before, and now that's all i want to use lol)
Ill provide specific links tonight in the other thread.
ll post some links to reply to you in the updated thread later tonight when I go through my bookmarks, but ags glass, cornerstone glass, and the chinese make thw bowl and wand setups (love the term atom smasher, never heard before, and now that's all i want to use lol)
Ill provide specific links tonight in the other thread.
AlGore
Well-Known Member
Awesome and thanks. I'll look for you post there.
I must have been slightly confused... I've read various sections of your volumes, and some of the comments. And of course 100s of other posts/articles on dabs/vaping/etc....
I had thought you were the person to suggest the Atom Smasher brand in particular but I guess not. http://atomsmasherglass.com/
I'm still trying to find the best way to get the most intense results from dabbing. Preferably without killing myself coughing every time I take a hit. And without compleatly breaking the bank. Although, I do like to have nice things and can afford them, etc. So I prefer something "cool" and effective as opposed to "cheap" and just as effective, if that makes sense, lol.
I've considered making a thread on this but there is just so much crazy info on all the different compounds and stuff. All I know is, that when I first moved to Co, for like the first two weeks of dabbing shatter on this super shitty hand dab pipe that was basically a quarts nail with a small glass tube to pull thru, and then like a for the first week of using my quartz domeless nail bubbler. I would choke my face off after pretty much every hit and get high as fucking shit. Like the first time I ever hit a bong 18 years ago.
I got super sick of almost dieing every-time I dabbed off a hot nail so started looking for alternatives. I've tried several pens designed for budder/shatter(atmosrx and others), no good. Prefilled carts - no good. Ssv dab setup - pretty good but still not like before. Even if I dab off a hot nail and choke myself - its still not the same as before.
Sorry for ranting about this but I miss getting fucking stupefied off bho, lol. I've considered its my tolerance so I just came off a week where I didn't use any bho(I may have had some ice wax tho, lol). Dabbed a shitload yesterday of the ssv with the mini bubbler and I get high don't get me wrong, but I don't get stupid high.
Anyway, last night I watched this whole thing on dabbing from the cup in Washington where they were talking all about the different compounds and terps and everything else...
http://youtu.be/vHckezsF7wI
http://youtu.be/4cAhZXZRQ1Y
So now I'm trying to mix flowers with dabbing but that just gets awkward I think, lol, I gotta roll a joint a dedicate a glass piece to flowers only and sit there and smoke a bunch first when I'd rather be takin a few hits of concentrates and be done... the SSV claims you can use flowers with the oil kit at the same time but I tried it this morning and even on full heat and the globe stopper its hard to get it to vape the flower, its more like the flower becomes a filter for the oil vapor, lol.
I want to try the wand/puddle set up and think I'm about to order that Illadelph hot hit wand kit as I found a site that sells it. Seems like other than a nail, that is the only way to get big vape hits thru a larger water pipe. Even if I dab directly on the Ti nail with the SSV kit, its not quite the same.
Or maybe I'm just not doing big enough dabs? I mean I'll do 5-10 the size of a grain of half a grain of rice in a row off the a SSV in sitting. Maybe now that I've been using for a while I gotta do a gram in a session?
Baaaa... Death Star Junt fueld rant over.
PS> I've considered getting The Worm quartz puddle setup, but am pretty sure it'll be pretty much the same as using a nail... http://www.headyglass.com/store/scientific-glass-1/the-worm.html