This is how we do it on the other side (Was the $26,500 Thread)
- Thread starter benvegas
- Start date
SOG
Well-Known Member
you can tell its belying right?
there is nothing but half the skin hanging on it (i was half way taking it down)!
yours on the other hand already have everything hanging, id expect a lil belly
do you have the joints also pulling outwards?
i tried to pull a strap from one side to the other
to close the gap, it snapped in half from the pressure
darookie2000
Well-Known Member
Yeah, white plastic, right? That's what I have.
darookie2000
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm looking at hydro setups now, I'm using soil right now, but that could change at some point.
Today was productive, made the first flowering tent a 4-light operation. That also meant 4000w under one tent with no air circulation other than an exhaust fan. No cool air intakes. It's 81(f) and loving life in there. Co2 is installed and all is well. You'll notice the heights of the plants vary -- that isnt because of shitty anything, its because there's some 10 strains in there just to see what happens and start logging things.
One thing you'll notice in the photos I did differently than most is put the trays in a circular configuration instead of the tetris shapes as before. With a light above each and then one above them ALL at the top it seems to have brightened the edges up very well.
Additionally, the water chiller for this room you see pictured was done on a 1" closed loop and then one pump to four lights. Ambient temp is 71(f) and the chiller is set to 65(f). Since it's 81(f) in the room and I can touch the glass with my bare hands for hours if needed I might use one 1hp chiller per TWO rooms. (1 Horsepower of chiller for every 8000 watts of lights). The 1" diameter is what made the difference. That chiller works like a TANK now. Before it was a 3/4" hose input and a 3/8" output (which means 3/8" the entire way for all intents). The stock inputs on the chiller are 1 1/4" outer diameter and 1" inner diameter so there's still room to go.
Things overall are pretty smooth, just mickey mouse stuff to button up.
One thing you'll notice in the photos I did differently than most is put the trays in a circular configuration instead of the tetris shapes as before. With a light above each and then one above them ALL at the top it seems to have brightened the edges up very well.
Additionally, the water chiller for this room you see pictured was done on a 1" closed loop and then one pump to four lights. Ambient temp is 71(f) and the chiller is set to 65(f). Since it's 81(f) in the room and I can touch the glass with my bare hands for hours if needed I might use one 1hp chiller per TWO rooms. (1 Horsepower of chiller for every 8000 watts of lights). The 1" diameter is what made the difference. That chiller works like a TANK now. Before it was a 3/4" hose input and a 3/8" output (which means 3/8" the entire way for all intents). The stock inputs on the chiller are 1 1/4" outer diameter and 1" inner diameter so there's still room to go.
Things overall are pretty smooth, just mickey mouse stuff to button up.
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SOG
Well-Known Member
looking good Ben
few steps behind you with my setup, tinkering with my DIY icebox
what size res and pumps ration are you running with your icebox setup?
i can see your exhaust line is scrubbing from inside the tent, exhausting out
aren't you running Co2?
The pumps are something like 1200gpm pumps. I'll check the box tomorrow. The twin connected reservoirs (forgot the size, check first post) works well too. I'll see what happens as the system gets a full 24 hours to cool and heat too.
I know very little in this area. I have that one fan that cools the lights and thats it. Its hooked on the CAN so its filtering, and the CO2 is behind one of the fans as the manual suggests. Is a fan cooler exhaust with no intake bad? I guess I just dont know any better right now.
SOG
Well-Known Member
lol, i think you meant GPH
which chiller are you using?
i have a 1/2hp Arctica commercial chiller
i plan on cooling 5 1000w lights and some other exhausting appliances through it with my DIY icebox
i can help bra,
your in luck since your running the 300
i have posted my room plans under my journal,
i specifically designed it for the 300 and my other 240
check out the diagrams, its pretty much self explanatory
it should give you a good start, we can then bounce ideas back and forth to make your room perfect
FYI: i recently changed my setup from the conventional design to a sealed room design (both designs are posted)
my first original plans who'd be similar to what your running now!
unless your running a sealed room, your wasting your Co2 every time you exhaust
unless your only exhausting after lights out, when no Co2 enrichment is needed
420 4 fun
Active Member
Hello benvegas and everyone else,
great thread, ive enjoyed it and have it tagged.
I am working with 6k, iceboxes draining to waste, vertical in cool tubes.
Having a vicious problem with condensation on the water lines and the iceboxes themselves. gotta wipe down the hoses, the floor where it drips, gonna have to drill some holes in the IB's and hook up a drip hose to each one, i had to install them on the bottom and push from top to bottom for fear of water dripping on my bulbs. The RH is at a constant 60.
BV, are you having any similar issues with sweaty hoses aand IBs?
what are you using to keep your RH sane? with your EB setup, you must have humidity issues?
thanks for taking a look, and thanks if you can post anything that can help me out.
be safe and have fun
great thread, ive enjoyed it and have it tagged.
I am working with 6k, iceboxes draining to waste, vertical in cool tubes.
Having a vicious problem with condensation on the water lines and the iceboxes themselves. gotta wipe down the hoses, the floor where it drips, gonna have to drill some holes in the IB's and hook up a drip hose to each one, i had to install them on the bottom and push from top to bottom for fear of water dripping on my bulbs. The RH is at a constant 60.
BV, are you having any similar issues with sweaty hoses aand IBs?
what are you using to keep your RH sane? with your EB setup, you must have humidity issues?
thanks for taking a look, and thanks if you can post anything that can help me out.
be safe and have fun
abellguy
Active Member
Ben might have a different idea on how the ice box system works. The condensation in the LL system comes from the temp on the chiller being set to low. If you try moving up 1 or 2 degrees untill there is no condesation, usually about 10 degrees below ambiant room teomp, this is a good place to keep the setting on the chiller. Hope this helps 
DR. VonDankenstine
Well-Known Member
BEN--
Couple of things that will help-----The same company makes some good hood covers and ducting covers that are very lite---You could also make your own---it would help push alot more of the heat into those ice-boxes and out of your tents.
SOG--
You have done a great job on your journal and great work on your room and tents---I'm always impressed with someone whom takes the time to plan and test everything out before they build... "your thread is a must read!!! " keep up the great work...
Couple of things that will help-----The same company makes some good hood covers and ducting covers that are very lite---You could also make your own---it would help push alot more of the heat into those ice-boxes and out of your tents.
SOG--
You have done a great job on your journal and great work on your room and tents---I'm always impressed with someone whom takes the time to plan and test everything out before they build... "your thread is a must read!!! " keep up the great work...
spagettiheady420
Well-Known Member
i like your operation.
your next go around you sould try a coco grow matt on the bottom of your rockwool cubes(increases yeilds)and maybe try some Phosphoload @ week 2 of flow to prevent stretching. do you use any carbs/sweetners??
your next go around you sould try a coco grow matt on the bottom of your rockwool cubes(increases yeilds)and maybe try some Phosphoload @ week 2 of flow to prevent stretching. do you use any carbs/sweetners??
420 4 fun
Active Member
yes, thank you, it does answer my question, unfortunately it does not solve it. this sweat is horrible, due to the water running through the hoses is below the dew point.Ben might have a different idea on how the ice box system works. The condensation in the LL system comes from the temp on the chiller being set to low. If you try moving up 1 or 2 degrees untill there is no condesation, usually about 10 degrees below ambiant room teomp, this is a good place to keep the setting on the chiller. Hope this helps
Thanks again for the great reply abellguy
littlegrower2004
Well-Known Member
any updates for us ben???
JACKMAYOFFER
Well-Known Member
If you rap your lines with foam it will stop them from sweating you can find the foam insulation at many ac supply stores. good luck
Harvested the first room a week ago, total from 2 trays of crappy trees, we got a total of 77oz of cured product. Fairly disappointing first harvest, but for all of the technical glitches encountered along the way and the learning curve it's still pretty nice. The next room is harvested in about 9 days from today and that'll be at least twice of what we have here already. Will take photos of that instead. 
