Tips for Dyna Grow Foliage Pro in soil
- Thread starter eversons
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weedemart
Well-Known Member
This, if your water is soft you dont need acid , your soil act as a buffer.do the test; just do your mix and water till run off, measure ph and it should be between 6-6.5.
always meaure medium ph , not water.
it look like a calcium deficiency imo, what the temperature and humidity of your room?
eversons
Member
Could definitely be a Ca def, but I doubt it's from low ph. I'm always 6.5 going in and when I've checked runoff, it's usually 6.3 to 6.5.
Most plants look really good. Only the pineapple haze has the issue, so I'm thinking it's more sensitive to P and/or a Ca hog.
Temps upper 60's at night, mid 70's in the day. Humidity around 40 to 50%.
Can a'buds
Member
I usually do full strength with the dyna-grow line have had good results with my location and other variables but I'm doing an automatic feed in soil with a self filling olla this go around and since there will be virtually 0 run off imma start the res at half strength first try
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
PH fluctuation - brown spots
Which will cause a cascade of shit to go south , like deficiencies and lockout .
Not sure why you would choose to use ( 20-20-20 ) PLUS bloom. I would cut the
all purpose and use bloom only. Start with a water diet of 6.5 only ... FFOF is buffered.
NO FLUSH or RUNOFF .... Plant is stressed already and " drowning " it with a flush is probably the last thing you should do.... Leaves that are damaged will not recover , they will fade and drop .
DYNAGRO is a great 2 part feed ( grow and bloom ) - I start GROW at 2 week of veg .
1 tsp per gallon ... I use TAP water , I don't vape off water , chlorine is actually an element plants use ( plus I use it in the yard without issue ). Adjust mix /feed to @6.5 - DYNAGRO ( for me ) drops my water right to where I need it.
Once plants starts sexing out , I keep veg Nutes ( grow only ) til preflowering ....
THEN I do a 50/50 mix of grow and bloom for transition phase into flower....
I continue this til WEEK 3 of flower then use bloom only @ 1 tsp per gallon water.
And use til harvest ...
I would avoid throwing the kitchen sink at autos , they WORK BETTER when things are simple.
eversons
Member
Its not a ph problem. Ph is consistent.
I was doing the all purpose plus bloom because I was going to gradually transition them.
But it turns out they were starving. Im not using FFOF. Im using cheap organic potting mix with perlite, but no lime. I bought an EC/PPP meter. My tap water is 80 ppm and after mixing up my nutes, I was only at around 200 ppm (0.4 EC). Since then, Ive doubled the cal mag plus and upped the nutes to get to about 1.0 EC. Obviously the damaged leaves didnt get better, but no spreading of the spots and the healthy leaves look healthier.
I was doing the all purpose plus bloom because I was going to gradually transition them.
But it turns out they were starving. Im not using FFOF. Im using cheap organic potting mix with perlite, but no lime. I bought an EC/PPP meter. My tap water is 80 ppm and after mixing up my nutes, I was only at around 200 ppm (0.4 EC). Since then, Ive doubled the cal mag plus and upped the nutes to get to about 1.0 EC. Obviously the damaged leaves didnt get better, but no spreading of the spots and the healthy leaves look healthier.
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
Yes indeed!
And if your plants want more phosphorous, add a little Indonesian bat guano (0-7-0). It is very soluble and will make them pop.
I have found when I always have good runoff (15-25% runoff is key) I have had no issues or deficiencies with Dyna Bro EVER...(I'm in roots "procision advantage" mix)..no cal- mag ever needed..I'm just using filtered tap water (ideal H20 brand Garden Hose Filter) ...also never had any issues in R.O. water as well..A 2:1 ratio (per gal of water) of Grow: Potekt keeps me at 6.1~6.2 pH while a 4:1 ratio (per gal of water) of Foliage Pro: Protekt keeps me at 6.4-6.5pH...adjust the strength of the ratios as needed to raise or lower EC...also never have had to flush only at the end of flower...have to give credit to "reefernutz" from instagram for helping and teaching me a ton
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eversons
Member
So that first grow ended up ok. I ended up sticking with the 20-20-20 pretty much throughout flower, doing a good flush each week, and adding CalMag every time. The plants looked a little rough, but I got about 2 oz of good bud from each of the 8 plants.
I've got 6 plants in veg on my second grow now.
This time, I'm using a different generic organic potting soil in 5 gallon fabric pots.
I'm using Protekt in very small amounts (about 1/4 tsp per 3 gallons of water) because if I use any more, I have trouble with high ph.
I'm using Foliage Pro at about 1 tsp per gallon.
I had some more yellowing between the veins and a couple brown spots a couple weeks ago. I did 1 feeding with CalMag, then started adding MagPro at 1/4 tsp per gallon. In about a week, the yellow areas greened back up and no more spots.
They are looking pretty good now.
I've got 6 plants in veg on my second grow now.
This time, I'm using a different generic organic potting soil in 5 gallon fabric pots.
I'm using Protekt in very small amounts (about 1/4 tsp per 3 gallons of water) because if I use any more, I have trouble with high ph.
I'm using Foliage Pro at about 1 tsp per gallon.
I had some more yellowing between the veins and a couple brown spots a couple weeks ago. I did 1 feeding with CalMag, then started adding MagPro at 1/4 tsp per gallon. In about a week, the yellow areas greened back up and no more spots.
They are looking pretty good now.
that's good to hear you got things all figured out..it took me a few months to get it down and learn how to use Dyna Gro....my issues were not enough runoff, underfeeding and too many supplements...I have gone up to 2 tsp per gallon of Grow in Veg with no burn no stress just fast, healthy growth..right now im at 8 mL/Gal just under 2 tsp ...all the times I have had issues was when I was supplementing Cal-Mag...I found this so hard to believe after all that I've read on the internet forums ..but finally I upped the base, cut out cal-mag and all the issues that were associated with supposed NOT ENOUGH cal mag went away for me... This is just my experience but youd be surprised Dyna gro pretty much does have everything the plant needs in the correct proportions, anything added will unbalance the formula...IMO
eversons
Member
With this new batch, I had been doing just Protekt and Foliage Pro since they were babies (from clones). I'm 99% sure the yellowing between the veins was Mag def because the symptoms matched everything I've read online about it. I just wasn't sure if there was a Calcium problem as well. But I read that Ca def shows up on the youngest leaves and my issues were all on the older leaves. Since some of the Dyna Gro feeding charts call for supplementing with MagPro, I figure it's reasonable that while FP does has everything, it might not have enough Mg for some strains in some parts of their life. Since starting to add the MagPro, it's been pretty remarkable to watch the yellow areas greening up each day from leaf base to leaf tip.
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
I've used DG Foliage Pro for a while & seen lots of mag deficiencies. Now I use 200 ppm cal-mag + 600 PPM DG Foliage Pro and it's perfect. (GH Cali-Magic is my favorite cal mag.)
eversons
Member
I've got a bottle of CalMag Plus and a bottle of MagPro. Both will handle any Mag def. The difference is the CalMag has Cal and Iron, while the MagPro has P, K, and S. I'm not sure which would be better. Maybe I will alternate them.
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
Alternating will probably work well. I'll probably switch between cal-mag and plain ol' mag sulfate (epsom).I've got a bottle of CalMag Plus and a bottle of MagPro. Both will handle any Mag def. The difference is the CalMag has Cal and Iron, while the MagPro has P, K, and S. I'm not sure which would be better. Maybe I will alternate them.
Sulfur is VERY important when it comes to quality.
dtl420
Well-Known Member
If you are using a DG product you don't need any Ca. Too much Ca will lock out everything. DG is formulated for hydroponic applications, it already contains plenty of Ca for the plants. I've found, like @weedemart said, if you obsess over pH adjustments of your water in soil you'll drop the pH of the soil particles too low, CAUSING CA DEFICIENCY.I've got a bottle of CalMag Plus and a bottle of MagPro. Both will handle any Mag def. The difference is the CalMag has Cal and Iron, while the MagPro has P, K, and S. I'm not sure which would be better. Maybe I will alternate them.
When you "pH" your water in soil, the acids become more concentrated as the water evaporates. pH down doesn't evap with the water, so as the concentrations rise with every watering it will eventually lock out a lot more than just Ca.. Please trust me, it took me years of following bad advice to realize that I was doing it all wrong.
Not everyone has the same issues, because most people us r/o water or DI water. For instance, my tap water is pretty hard, like 200ppm, so when I mix a nutrient solution at full strength it sits around 7.0. When I was doing it wrong it was taking me ~1/4tsp of pH down to bring it to 6.0, and more if I used Protekt (the more dissolved solids in the water, the more acid it takes to drop the pH). With DI water just a few granules of pH down will cause the pH to plummet. The plants always looked great at first, because the pH down hadn't accumulated yet, but towards the beginning/mid flower they would start showing all kinds of signs of nutrient deficiencies. So, following bad advice I bought some cal mag, and it never resolved the issue.
I went on like this for years... I figured it wasn't a deficiency, it was leaf septoria (which it wasn't). EVERY plant showed the same signs, and I grow every one the same way, till one day I realized how high my tds readings were after pH adjustments were made. I was nearly DOUBLING the dissolved solid content of the water. This is about the time I quit getting on RIU for a while, I quit reading forums and started reading text books. I learned about the buffering capacity of different soil particles and CEC's and how chemical nutrients DON'T actually kill all the beneficial organisms, so many things that a lot of the people on RIU were saying were not true. It was honey on my lips. All of my questions were being answered.
All I am really getting at here is that, you're pH is going to rise enough on it's own due to nutrient salts accumulating (they are acidic), it doesn't need you adding an acid on top of that. If anything, by the end you may be using pH up, but as long as the soil is decent (even the cheapest potting mixes at walmart have lime to adjust the pH) you should not have to use pH down in soil. This is absolutely what your problem is. And if you just keep throwing pH down and cal mag at it you're just fighting fire with fire.
dtl420
Well-Known Member
didn't see this post before I made my long winded one. There is a possibility that the is an excess of something in the soil that is increasing the demand for Ca. How frequently are you feeding vs just giving them straight water?
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i've been using it for awhile too as just my veg nute. haven't had any Mg issues except for the 2 ladies I'm doing right now. been using epsom to fix it. guess i was due to see some deficiencies
when i put FP in my nute calc, at 2mL/gal, it only has like 3ppm Mg. which explains the deficiencies i reckon.
dtl420
Well-Known Member
That's why DG makes mag pro. I've not had mg issues yet, but I did with the 7-9-5 formula. also just fixed it with Epsom rather than blowing 20$ on a bottle of glorified liquid Epsom salt, aka mag-pro.