Too early to start my seeds?

NoTillPhil

Well-Known Member
I also started about six weeks ago for a June 1st planting date. Using 14.5 hour day length which is just shy of day length come June in my area. Big plants that are not built for the winds are a concern for sure but that's what cages are for !!

I started working the soil in November in an area that was a previous owners vegetable garden. Put down copious amounts of semi composted hay, leaf an manure mix then turned it into the soil in four foot circles about two feet deep. Added some blood meal to help with all the nitrogen depletion from the semi composted material. This month we will add a few more amendments for good measure.
 

too larry

Well-Known Member
I tried a fall/winter grow this year. Grasshoppers and too damn cold for Florida temps put an end to it. But one seed I planted in October popped about three weeks ago. I'm outdoors from the start, so early flower and reveg is in it's furture.

This is a (Blue Shiva X Blue Shark) X ({Powernap X Sinmint Cookies} X Ass Cheese). Should know sex any day now.

DSCF6407.JPG
 

mojoganjaman

Well-Known Member
hmmmm...I'm nowhere near to op being in southern BC...but I'll share my yard strategy...get to know an organic farmer...give him 2 holes in your legal garden...let the farmer grow your clones out from around Feb...get organic soil to regenerate your holes in late March to cook for a few months...collect said clones first week of May....they are about 12-18 inches so the dog won't walk on them...populate yard by May 6-8...call the fishin' resort and advise you need a cabin May 15...take 3 nights away from yard...then back to it...by July 15 its the Kettle River Drift in Grand Forks...thats a weekend gig...then back to the yard...then first week in August its the bomber run...so back to the resort for 3-4 days...then back to the yard...by mid September its back up to the resort for my last trip...then its game on until harvest...late Oct...by mid December the crop is dried and well into cure....Just how this ol' poor dirt farmer rolls....hth


this is the resort... https://www.tunkwalakeresort.com/



mojo
 

indicas4me

Well-Known Member
Vegging indoors early to have big plants to put out means nothing if the pot/hole size restricts roots half way through the grow,actually will get less bud.
 

ganga gurl420

Well-Known Member
Vegging indoors early to have big plants to put out means nothing if the pot/hole size restricts roots half way through the grow,actually will get less bud.
I think most people know that the pot size is directly related to the yield. No one is going to veg a plant for months and stick it out in a 3 or 5 gallon pot.
The point that I am making is if you grow them first indoors you are able to train them to get the most bud sites as possible before you stick them outside to explode in growth.
Warmer climate growers don't have to do this but for us that gets snow and frost it is almost a must if you want a yield. You get out of it what you put into it.
 

NoTillPhil

Well-Known Member
Check out gangagirls stalks for reference. Also check out some grows that are pulling 5lbs+ per plant. MendoDopeBoys comes to mind on you tube. Most are putting out full on bushes come planting time. I don't have my own past reference for the scale plants I'm planning this year but I have seen the difference in past guerrilla grows that a couple extra weeks of indoor veg can make.

Agreed pot/hole size was a given. I'm planning on being in 10 gallon bags come transplant time.
 

indicas4me

Well-Known Member
I think most people know that the pot size is directly related to the yield. No one is going to veg a plant for months and stick it out in a 3 or 5 gallon pot.
The point that I am making is if you grow them first indoors you are able to train them to get the most bud sites as possible before you stick them outside to explode in growth.
Warmer climate growers don't have to do this but for us that gets snow and frost it is almost a must if you want a yield. You get out of it what you put into it.
More stalks growing closer together to get more bud sites is asking for more mold issues than a tall open air single stalked plant IMO.I like to go cup to ground no training/no transplanting (timed for an average of a month in cup give or take),anything after that is a not necessary.It will make up for that extra month non vegging longer along the way in the root system,unless some how it has infinite root growth then age/growth would make a bigger advantage.
 

ganga gurl420

Well-Known Member
More stalks growing closer together to get more bud sites is asking for more mold issues than a tall open air single stalked plant IMO.I like to go cup to ground no training/no transplanting (timed for an average of a month in cup give or take),anything after that is a not necessary.It will make up for that extra month non vegging longer along the way in the root system,unless some how it has infinite root growth then age/growth would make a bigger advantage.
To each their own lol
 

MadMel

Well-Known Member
I think that some of you may have missed an important point in my OP.

I only have 2 full spectrum LED 45 watts bulbs for an indoor light source. I know that THIS is an important factor for what I can do.

Last year, it was so late in the season when I started that this was not a consideration. I started outside, and I was late starting to begin with.

This year I want to start as early as possible and indoor lighting is the main restrictive factor for that. I have 50+ seeds to choose from.

The strains that I have are;
Girl Scout cookies
Blueberry
OG Kush
Amnesia Haze
Big Bud Autoflower
White Widow autoflower

I really need the Indica's for pain/PTSD. All of the seeds come from MSNL.

I will be using (when they are ready) Mega Crop fertilizer/nutrient so I should be good to go on that part.

Obviously, I have more seeds than I need/ can use, but better to have them and not need them (now), than to need them and not have them So if something happens climatically/ weather wise, I can restart.
 

ganga gurl420

Well-Known Member
I think that some of you may have missed an important point in my OP.

I only have 2 full spectrum LED 45 watts bulbs for an indoor light source. I know that THIS is an important factor for what I can do.

Last year, it was so late in the season when I started that this was not a consideration. I started outside, and I was late starting to begin with.

This year I want to start as early as possible and indoor lighting is the main restrictive factor for that. I have 50+ seeds to choose from.

The strains that I have are;
Girl Scout cookies
Blueberry
OG Kush
Amnesia Haze
Big Bud Autoflower
White Widow autoflower

I really need the Indica's for pain/PTSD. All of the seeds come from MSNL.

I will be using (when they are ready) Mega Crop fertilizer/nutrient so I should be good to go on that part.

Obviously, I have more seeds than I need/ can use, but better to have them and not need them (now), than to need them and not have them So if something happens climatically/ weather wise, I can restart.
You can get a cheap t8 or t12hood with strong lights for cheap. The nice thing about these is you can keep the light almost touching the plants and they won't burn...and they won't get stretchy
 

indicas4me

Well-Known Member
Right...nothing like a tree! View attachment 4105818
Very nice Ganja Girl,very good example of what you are saying.As you can see there would be alot less air circulating in the middle of that plant,I would not recommend doing for the northern regions.Moisture in the middle of that plant from just morning dew would linger way longer than a more open plant which I strive for.I sometimes get an accidental/unintentional polly hybrid formed clone,i use them but keep them small.
 

indicas4me

Well-Known Member
Another example I get is some times the budded stem bend onto the lower stalk.anywhere they are touching equals a moisture trap.Dont know how you would do it with a plant like that,I would have to trim out the leaves of the whole inside of that plant,maybe you are in a less humid area?
 
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