True HP Aero For 2011

Atomizer said:

I wish you`d make up your mind, post # 2156, is it moisture or drops or both?

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Your way above even bothering with it/him imo... Just let it rest please. I've gotten emails from a few of the contributors to the thread here telling me to get him the hell out of here. I don't know why he wants to keep making a fool of himself against everyone else in here. It might be different if there was at least one other person rooting for him, but since there's obviously not- I'm not sure why enjoys making himself the target of everyone else's ill will. He might as well be walking around in Harlem with a white hood on.

I'm a big fan of the saying "You'll attract more flies with honey than with vinegar" but apparently the world is full of all types.

You`re absolutely right Trichy, DIYer > ignore list..sorted

Atomizer said:

You`re absolutely right Trichy, DIYer > ignore list..sorted

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Agreed, same here... First time ever...

Hey fella's, been a hot minute since I've stepped in. Got my aquatec pump right, I was told (when it was sold to me) that i would get a 12v pump. Went to hook it up and it says 24v. The seller said that he checked with his distributor and they said that the 12 v comes with a red and black wire (which I have).

Point is, does anyone have a 12v model and could tell me what color the wires are?

I wanted to go 12v cuase i wanted to be extremely portable plus its a power fail safe. Im in knee deep cuase i have a deep cylcle marine battery and charger that is already invested.

I cant see why the manufacturer would stick a 24v label on a 12v pump, which model is it? The 24v aquatec booster pumps dont usually have colour coded wires as polarity isnt an issue with ac.

There is two things in play here, i got it from the rvwaterfilterstore.com and he got it from precision installation pumps. When i spoke with this guy he said they are all custom made pumps and that the distributor told him all the 12v dc are black and red wires and the AC ones are black wires

it actually says on the pump "Use with approved 24 VAC, 50/60 HZ transformer only" . Now my old man is an electrician and says in his 30+ years doing that he has never seen a manufacturer putting that on there if its a 12v dc. I dont know if that is something standard they put if they are telling me the pumps are all custom made

I finally spoke with the actual distributor and they looked it up and says my model is a 12v dc. The model # is 8850 2P02 T541

Waiting to hear from a the lone tech guy at aquatec. So far everyone has been pleasant and I got to tell you the pump is quiet when i hooked it up to a battery.

The colour coding would be a good indication its a dc pump, if it delivers close to the specified open flowrate on 12v then i`d say its what the supplier says it is. Aquatecs are all quiet runners

Yeah I will just hook the darn thing up and see what happens. Mist central will be a cooler standing on its side (will update with pics this weekend) to attach everything to. Then i used some spray foam to create a seat for the accumulator, above that will be the pressure relief system, the pre and post pressure gauges sandwiching the pressure regulator will sit on the outside with the pump and pressure switch on the top.

The filter will sit on the side as well and im using an igloo 80 qt cooler with two doors for a reservoir. one door will be for fill and exiting of tubing and mist central will sit on top of the other door.

Anyone use a wort chilller before? im getting a SS one and using it in my reservior so i dont have to clear the chiller of nutes.

BflexNJshore said:

Yeah I will just hook the darn thing up and see what happens. Mist central will be a cooler standing on its side (will update with pics this weekend) to attach everything to. Then i used some spray foam to create a seat for the accumulator, above that will be the pressure relief system, the pre and post pressure gauges sandwiching the pressure regulator will sit on the outside with the pump and pressure switch on the top. Although it's an odd situation, I'd test it and like A says- if it works about right with 12v then it must be made for it. If it breaks it I would send it back and complain they told you is was made for 12v although I doubt a few seconds will hurt it anyway even if it's made for AC.

The filter will sit on the side as well and im using an igloo 80 qt cooler with two doors for a reservoir. one door will be for fill and exiting of tubing and mist central will sit on top of the other door.

Anyone use a wort chilller before? im getting a SS one and using it in my reservior so i dont have to clear the chiller of nutes.

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Yes- I have used the liquid nitrogen and it burned those suckers right off my hand hehe

Ok kidding- IDK anyone else using one, but that doesn't mean it isn't good for the job- let us know how it works. Not sure exactly what you mean about about having to clear the chiller of nutes? One way it has been done is to use an ice chest or whatever with recirculating water from your chiller, then run some coils of the line leaving your accumulator in the cold water bath before your solenoid. The nutes should cool down right before being sprayed...

The thing to watch for with cooling coils is the tube diameter and the length, especially if you have a number of nozzles to feed. Measuring the pressure before and after the coil will give you the pressure drop. If its excessive you can add a small insulated accumulator (1L) before the solenoid to get around the coil losses.
The same method can be used for the compressed air in AA systems

Atomizer said:

The thing to watch for with cooling coils is the tube diameter and the length, especially if you have a number of nozzles to feed. Measuring the pressure before and after the coil will give you the pressure drop. If its excessive you can add a small insulated accumulator (1L) before the solenoid to get around the coil losses.
The same method can be used for the compressed air in AA systems

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good points... I think this is where the reynold's numbers come into play... I may have to add on a tiny air tank because my coils do affect the airflow and run-on just by ear I can tell on the AA setup.

Ok, this may seem like a stupid question, but I got three 120v solenoid valves (one for each nozzle). How would you fellas recommend wiring them? Should I wire them in series or parallel?

Hello Dok you need to wire parallel positive to positive negative to negative. Large spade on a male plug is negative and small is positive.

hammer21 said:

Hello Dok you need to wire parallel positive to positive negative to negative. Large spade on a male plug is negative and small is positive.

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Thanks, hammer! Yeah, that's what I thought, but I wanted to make sure before I did something stupid and burned up my solenoids right off the bat. lol.

hello guys i want to build a true hp aero so im wondering what are the benefits to aero as opposed to hydro or soil?
how much less veg time?
I want to run out and spend 3000 on equipment but i don't want to have to return a bunch of stuff either. Id like to keep the plant count at about 4 (8 oz per cycle hopefully)
what size net pots do I need?
Whats the best way to drain to waste for indoor?

DoktorD1313 said:

Ok, this may seem like a stupid question, but I got three 120v solenoid valves (one for each nozzle). How would you fellas recommend wiring them? Should I wire them in series or parallel?

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Parallel, Atomizer can explain why...

professorkush said:

hello guys i want to build a true hp aero so im wondering what are the benefits to aero as opposed to hydro or soil?
how much less veg time?
I want to run out and spend 3000 on equipment but i don't want to have to return a bunch of stuff either. Id like to keep the plant count at about 4 (8 oz per cycle hopefully)
what size net pots do I need?
Whats the best way to drain to waste for indoor?

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Here's my opinion and honest answer. If you're trying to beat some record or need results quick, don't bother with HP. If you enjoy the fun of doing some different sort of project then go for it. There are some advantages for sure. The fact we can go drain to waste is a huge benefit imo. Also the energy savings and automation/low maintenance is great. When built properly an dialed in (which will take a long time if ever at all) it is probably the best way to grow in terms of plant performance, but getting there is not anything easy or quick. I expect to see growth nearly 30-40 % faster in perfectly dialed in aero vs soil, but perhaps I am being optomistic. I can't repeat enough you probably will not be hitting those kind of numbers for at least a year after starting your build...

Trichy Bastard said:

Parallel, Atomizer can explain why...

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personally i wouldnt use mains voltage ac solenoids near the nozzles unless they had IP68 protection or were at least rated for greenhouse use. Low voltage 24v ac is ok, dc is ideal for power outages.

Trichy Bastard said:

Parallel, Atomizer can explain why...

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Lol yeah, I forgot my college physics there for a few minutes.

Couldn't agree more- I completely forgot he had ac solenoids. Although if he has them, and it's all he's got I suppose they'll work just fine- it's a bit of a safety concern though. If I am not mistaken, the dc solenoids generally have a quicker response time too, but it's just a foggy memory now and I am not sure about that. Either way, it wasn't a substantial difference if it were true, perhaps a millisecond or so difference.