True HP Aero For 2011
- Thread starter Trichy Bastard
- Start date
konagirl420
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I have a new update up 
The sesto timer looks a lot like the Omron h5cx which is what I am using. Have you already bought the sesco? You can catch the omron h5cx on ebay from time to time. I use two, one for day cycle and another for night cycles. Both are controlled by a master timer that is a clock type timer that has programs to trigger on and off triggers for relays. The master timer also controlls my lights via relays so everything triggers together. If you want something like that I can send you a schematic I made up for me to use in case I had to make repairs. I made it in Auto Cad but I am sure I can save as another type of file for others to read.
I don't have any clue to how the sesco works but it may be simular. I used the instructions for the omron and sat down and kept working with it till I figured it out. You use the omron to trigger relays to trigger solenoids or what ever. If you know a little about relays it is still a challenge but not too hard to work it out in the end. If you don't you will definetly need help to walk you through it.
Good luck.
aerojunkie
Well-Known Member
Here is the wiring
Run both the Neutral from pigtail and one leg of solenoid to #10
Run Hot from pigtail to #9
Jumper #7 and #9
Run Second leg of solenoid to #8
This configuration will make "A" your on time and "B" your off time.
To program
Press and hold "MD" at the same time press any down arrow to switch from A or B. Depress MD after selecting A or B
Insert desired on and off cycle parameters.
Program Recycle mode and Sec Min Hour function:
I dont have the manual in front of me to explain this portion, if your unable to figure it out with yours PM me and Ill dig mine out of hiding.
BTW This unit itself uses an OMRON relay as its internal relay component. I don't know if there was a mis-communication with forsakenlion but you don't need to buy a separate relay alongside this timer for it to function as designed.
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Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Yes, being outdoors, the constant breeze did causse me issues, of course indoors might not be the same unless a fan is circulating lots of air.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
You should have also used Atomiser's formula for mist volume- on first glance I believe you may have too many nozzles?
You have to slowly dial the settings back until the roots have begun the hp structure, it's a weaning process if you start with typical stringy roots. Could also be root rot, what are your pod temps and do you use an oxidizer?
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
The size of your chamber isn't really important for a timer, however the style of growing does matter. What sort of time increments do you need?
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
I believe the specs said it had an omron relay- omron is just a good brand, any relay will do the times if it's included in the timer- omron will just last longer hopefully. I believe the consensus was that the sesos had some limitations in the timings. But for the price that could be expected. So far the only 2 timers really up for the job commercially are the 422 and the one on ebay hammer21 listed. I need to post a review of this timer as I got one for testing, and it was nice- although it's more suited to a/c voltages, not 12v.
My timers work just fine too TB just to let you know 
Havent had one failure yet and you of course set the time to whatever you want in ms or even us if you wanted too(not that any soleniod could use that short of timing cycles). While the relays might only have a limited number of cycles itll be years before one wears out under normal loads, plus you can drive the soleniods with mosfets or SSRs if you dont want to use MRs.
Havent had one failure yet and you of course set the time to whatever you want in ms or even us if you wanted too(not that any soleniod could use that short of timing cycles). While the relays might only have a limited number of cycles itll be years before one wears out under normal loads, plus you can drive the soleniods with mosfets or SSRs if you dont want to use MRs.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Yes, you're right... So to get it straight- the Sestos timer is capable of 1/10sec ON timings whilst also having 1 minute incremented OFF timings? I thought there was an issue where if you used 1/10 on time the max off time was 9.99 seconds or so, -I remember something like the on and off timing increments had to be the same? Otherwise this is a steal of a timer with all the functionality we need in full?My timers work just fine too TB just to let you know
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
BTW, after an issue, my red cloudtops nozzles finally arrived- I think having nozzles that aren't deformed will make a big difference, and I recieved another letter from Bio-controls telling me to send in the bad nozzles for exchange- so it seems they are on the ball again hopefully. I also have some 1cmx1cm precut Cultilene brand stonewool mini cubes en route (brand recommended by Atomizer and have read it's the best due to their spinning process that it doesn't get soggy). I am still debating on how best to cool the pod- althouh I think I can get away with these winter temps for a round or two without any mods. The best idea I have is to run circulating water through the double walls of the chamber from the chiller- I can run a line across the top of them and let the cold water trickle down between the walls and collect it from the bottom of the chamber on the underside of the silkscreen. I could probably add 2 small fans in the top of the chamber - one blowing, and the other sucking, that will not allow any heat buildup within the top lid, but the airflow will also not affect the inner chamber. I should be sprouting some seeds very soon. I am debating on whether I should try to use my fogponic Dominaero chamber to sprout and veg in, the fog may give the HP rootstructure and the easiest transition, while allowing me the ability run it indoors with 18 hour lighting until the flowering period. Last test subject went into flower at 6 inches- doh! I suppose I could also build a sort of light hood that fully encloses the top of my chamber, and I could use natural sunlight all day, but put the lighted lid on before sunset and remove it again in the mornings- that way I can get the benefit of real sunlight, while also extending the photoperiod- although it will be a little work for a couple weeks until flowering time. Anyone know enough about ultrasonic fog to know if it will give me the fuzzies just in the younger stages- I never had a chance to really use it correctly as I hadn't a chiller and my plants experienced 100 degree root temps which pretty much messed everything up.
I dont use the sestos, any decent micro controller with a good xtal will give you plenty of accuracy and timing to what ever you want from micro seconds to years. There are many commecial boards out there when paired with a relay board(solid state or mechanical) gives you your timer. You could even connect an xbee module to your computer and use another module as the "brains" in the room breaking out the pins for fans or soleniods (or lights for the indoors) with a transistor and a 5 or 12v supply I really need to make a write up in the DIY section for anyone that is interested, if you want pm me TB and I'll drop a few items in the mail for you to play with.
If i want to change the mist time on my controller I just send a serial ASCII string such as "CSP01003600" which would set my mist schedule to 100ms on and 3600 ms off for example. It will also save to EEPROM as well to make sure it remembers the scheduling. You could even have ramp profiles if you put fresh clones in to slowly scale the duration back from a high starting point over time without your interference.
I really need to make a write up in the DIY section for anyone that is interested, if you want pm me TB and I'll drop a few items in the mail for you to play with.If i want to change the mist time on my controller I just send a serial ASCII string such as "CSP01003600" which would set my mist schedule to 100ms on and 3600 ms off for example. It will also save to EEPROM as well to make sure it remembers the scheduling. You could even have ramp profiles if you put fresh clones in to slowly scale the duration back from a high starting point over time without your interference.
Ok great thanks for the breakdown I'm Gna mess with it tomorrow! I'll let u know if I have questions. Thank you!!
yes please post it I'm using ac and always like to see other options
Yes please send me the schematic thank man!!
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
Again, you're right on Kdn, and my minimal electronics background is enough for me to take that leap myself eventually. I was just saying on behalf of all the non-electronics nerds out there who are already having a good enough time with jg lines and plumbing...I dont use the sestos, any decent micro controller with a good xtal will give you plenty of accuracy and timing to what ever you want from micro seconds to years. There are many commecial boards out there when paired with a relay board(solid state or mechanical) gives you your timer. You could even connect an xbee module to your computer and use another module as the "brains" in the room breaking out the pins for fans or soleniods (or lights for the indoors) with a transistor and a 5 or 12v supply
If i want to change the mist time on my controller I just send a serial ASCII string such as "CSP01003600" which would set my mist schedule to 100ms on and 3600 ms off for example. It will also save to EEPROM as well to make sure it remembers the scheduling. You could even have ramp profiles if you put fresh clones in to slowly scale the duration back from a high starting point over time without your interference.
I would love for you to send anything you like, matter of fact, why don't you start a thread on it- and it can supplement all the HPA growers and others who wish to take that route- surely it will rouse others to jump on the bandwagon...
give me a day to get in a format that i can send and you can read
I cant get the file uploaded it is too large. are there any other way you know of I can get it to you?
I'm not familuar with the formula you speak of. The pod is insulated with 3/4 styrofoam and seems to be cool inside. I only use the fert formula plus saline, not sure of the oxidizer you speak of. The roots are brown from the cloaner but are slowly changing to whiter color roots and with the fuzzies starting on some of the plants now. I trimmed the length to keep them off the bottom, the silk screen holds a little fluid from surface tension. My current cycle times are 4sec on/2 min off. If I dial it down too much the plants start to wilt. So I am having to keep the mist times up to keep them healthy for now. What are you suggesting as far as the weaning process? I know I will have to start dialing back at some point.
Thanks for your help.
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
YAY
- I finally came up with a solution to keep my pod cool that I really like! This single obstacle has kept me from moving forward on going in full force with a grow- but no more... I am going to use drip line tubing because it is so much cheaper than clear vinyl tubing, but I plan to run some 1/2 tubing all around the top of the chamber hugging the inside corners, two rows- one for incoming cool water, and another for outgoing warmed water. The sidewalls have 3-4" vertical corrugations, and in each one, I will shove some 1/4" tubing and let it spiral around in the compartments as much as possible without kinking. This way I can cool the sides with recirculating cool water from the chiller... The nighttime temps get fairly cool here, so I was trying to figure a way to use this to my advantage, and I will also fill the walls with water so they can absorb the nightime coolness, which will serve to radiate the cooling from the tubes more efficiently as well. A quick google tells me if I mix in some salt to 10% salinity- it will inhibit bacterial growth and keep the water sterile. I figure the mist overspray will keep the water topped off, but can always do it manually if need be... I'll see how it works without adding outer pod insulation first, but may eventually wrap in fiberglass and reflectix to conserve energy. As for the lid- I can stuff with fiberglass, though I worry moisture will permeate it and cause it to lose it's r-value, so may go with spray foam... What do you guys think?
- I finally came up with a solution to keep my pod cool that I really like! This single obstacle has kept me from moving forward on going in full force with a grow- but no more... I am going to use drip line tubing because it is so much cheaper than clear vinyl tubing, but I plan to run some 1/2 tubing all around the top of the chamber hugging the inside corners, two rows- one for incoming cool water, and another for outgoing warmed water. The sidewalls have 3-4" vertical corrugations, and in each one, I will shove some 1/4" tubing and let it spiral around in the compartments as much as possible without kinking. This way I can cool the sides with recirculating cool water from the chiller... The nighttime temps get fairly cool here, so I was trying to figure a way to use this to my advantage, and I will also fill the walls with water so they can absorb the nightime coolness, which will serve to radiate the cooling from the tubes more efficiently as well. A quick google tells me if I mix in some salt to 10% salinity- it will inhibit bacterial growth and keep the water sterile. I figure the mist overspray will keep the water topped off, but can always do it manually if need be... I'll see how it works without adding outer pod insulation first, but may eventually wrap in fiberglass and reflectix to conserve energy. As for the lid- I can stuff with fiberglass, though I worry moisture will permeate it and cause it to lose it's r-value, so may go with spray foam... What do you guys think?
Trichy Bastard
Well-Known Member
I'll have to ferret the specific post, but there is a target optimal mist volume to chamber volume ratio per mist cycle - something like < 1ml/L of air volume or something- in my mind it is the single most important thing to know in order to achieve a proper HPA setup. You have to calculate your chamber volume and nozzle flow rate x number of nozzles.
Oxidizer- like bleach or peroxide, I started with peroxide, and went with 6 drops bleach/gallon now. It keeps everything nice and fresh, and no harm at all to plants. If the roots aren't constantly fighting off bad microbes, they can focus on being healthy and growth.
Your guess is as good as mine on the weaning process, each setup is different, but I would use common sense and lower your mist time every few days and take note if the plants are adjusting well, if not go back up to the least amount that they didn't wilt at.