True HP Aero For 2011

syder

syder

Well-Known Member
Hi-pressure aeroponic spray jet Hydro-atomize water & nutrient solutions to 5-25 micron droplets. Lowest water usage - fine mist cloud pattern. Orifice size: 0.016" Package size: 2 ea.

Hi-pressure aeroponic spray jet. Hydro-atomize water and nutrient solutions to 5-50 micron droplet range. Low water usage. Robust mist cloud pattern. Orifice size: 0.025" Package size: 2 ea.

you guys are confusing me .... how the fuck did you come up with 407 microns?



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K

kmbud

Member
syder said:
Hi-pressure aeroponic spray jet Hydro-atomize water & nutrient solutions to 5-25 micron droplets. Lowest water usage - fine mist cloud pattern. Orifice size: 0.016" Package size: 2 ea.

Hi-pressure aeroponic spray jet. Hydro-atomize water and nutrient solutions to 5-50 micron droplet range. Low water usage. Robust mist cloud pattern. Orifice size: 0.025" Package size: 2 ea.

you guys are confusing me .... how the fuck did you come up with 407 microns?


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Click to expand...
I'm not sure what queston you are asking. The 0.016 nozzle is what I chose to go with because of the low water usage and the amount of nozzles I needed to get coverage in my pod.
 
syder

syder

Well-Known Member
read what u wrote page 132 ...i thought the best micron for roots is 50 micron....second you said u got 0.016...AND YOU SAID ITS ABOUT 407 MICRONS ...WTF...? agrihouse says 0.016 re 5-25 microns 80-100 psi..you said 407...how did you come up with it....then if you are wrong and people who are hpa pros say misters 0.025 are 25-50 micron..why dont you get that...nasa says 50 micron is best less is not best. if you get the 0.016 you will be off topic....50 microns is what everyone is after right??shiiit....=]
 
D

dickkhead

Active Member
.016 is the amount of mist it disperses per hour. In order to get the 50 microns it's all about pressure I beleive. Somone correct me if I'm wrong
 
K

kmbud

Member
A question for all of you that use air assisted nozzles. I have been looking at the aerofog nozzles by aerolife. they cost about 159 bucks each. They recomend two per chamber. This is the only nozzle of this kind that I have seen. http://www.aerolife.com/nozzles.html

I think some of you are using a diferent brand and am wondering if you could share that info with me of where to buy from and cost. I may go this route in a future grow.
 
K

kmbud

Member
Mike Young said:
I thought it was the diameter of the orifice...
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You are correct Mike it is the dia of the orifice.

The 407 micron was refering to the orifice size also. 0.016 inch = 407 micron. Not 407 micron size of the droplet. I chose the 0.016 for the reasons previously listed, it was the best solution I felt at that time for me. It may prove to be wrong, but so far it's working ok. As the plants grow taller it will tell the story at that time. As most will say this is a learning expereance. This is my first so I will probally make a number of mistakes, time will tell. I was looking at the cloud tops red originally but was advised to use the bio nozzles. I have read that some have gone to the cloud tops, I may also if I find these don't work for me.
 
D

dickkhead

Active Member
sorry bout that but i thought it sayas gph after the orifice size? o well.

Im using the digs and the tefens. Ive had a few digs get cloged up on me, and have been favofing the tefens they throw a pretty nice mist im thinking about trying those bio controls thats what tf uses
 
K

kmbud

Member
My "Tomatoes" were yellowing up on some of the leaves from nutrient starvation. I upped the ppm to 645 on the GH and Silica. They are getting plenty of mist because the roots are fuzzing up more each day. I changed my times to 2sec/4min day and 2sec/6min night. I will see what they look like tomorrow.
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
syder said:
read what u wrote page 132 ...i thought the best micron for roots is 50 micron....second you said u got 0.016...AND YOU SAID ITS ABOUT 407 MICRONS ...WTF...? agrihouse says 0.016 re 5-25 microns 80-100 psi..you said 407...how did you come up with it....then if you are wrong and people who are hpa pros say misters 0.025 are 25-50 micron..why dont you get that...nasa says 50 micron is best less is not best. if you get the 0.016 you will be off topic....50 microns is what everyone is after right??shiiit....=]
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U guys are talking about 2 different things... The diameter of the orifice (nozzle outlet hole) is a certain size, and then the purported mist droplet size is another. Usually the size of the orifice in cunjunction with a certain PSI will cause whatever size droplets. Yes, the target droplet size is around 50 microns mean size, although the range is typically between 30-80 microns as there is not an easy way to make all the droplets exactly the same size... Yes, in this case .016 is the size of the orifice. And yes, it also states the GPH flow rate after the orifice size, which is another seperate measurement factor in itself- flow rate in Gallons Per Hour.
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
kmbud said:
A question for all of you that use air assisted nozzles. I have been looking at the aerofog nozzles by aerolife. they cost about 159 bucks each. They recomend two per chamber. This is the only nozzle of this kind that I have seen. http://www.aerolife.com/nozzles.html

I think some of you are using a diferent brand and am wondering if you could share that info with me of where to buy from and cost. I may go this route in a future grow.
Click to expand...
I'm fairly certain I pointed those aerolife products out to Atomizer who basically didn't seem too enthisiastic about them, I believe he said they looked suspiciously similar to airbrush gear and seemed low quality. Delevan makes good nozzles, but I cannot easily remember which part numbers are best. I believe they will "consult" with you over the phone on it, and then you can find the particular part number for your application, try googling that part number, because I have seen Delevan oil heater nozzles going for 30 bucks on ebay at times, although that is amazing pricing for them.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I edited my post 1310 to clarify as follows *EDIT: I replaced the probe ~2 years ago. In retrospect, the probe was giving false readings. I was wondering why I needed more acid than usual (and more over the last month month), but did not connect the dots. This could have been as a much a problem as the mist heads missing the pressure valves.

Moral: Replace your pH probes once a year. If you forget, and begin to notice that you need to add more acid than usual, that's probably a sign. It definitely set back my test clones, but better them than new plants.
 
Mike Young

Mike Young

Well-Known Member
Anybody have ideas as to why my ph in my pressure tank rises (fairly quickly), while the same nute mix remains stable in my res. Build-up is the only thing I can think, but my res should have just as much build-up as my bladder. Don't get it...
 
mrflamboynt

mrflamboynt

Member
found a few articles geared toward folks with a higher mental capacity, but it looks like pressure may affect PH (and vice versa)..... perhaps you can interpret the technical data more better..... ;)
 
Mike Young

Mike Young

Well-Known Member
If anybody has ever drained their accumlator, they can attest to the fact that the water is so highly oxygenated that it's milky. Perhaps that has something to do with it. Where's atomizer when you need him?
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
I edited my post 1310 to clarify as follows *EDIT: I replaced the probe ~2 years ago. In retrospect, the probe was giving false readings. I was wondering why I needed more acid than usual (and more over the last month month), but did not connect the dots. This could have been as a much a problem as the mist heads missing the pressure valves.

Moral: Replace your pH probes once a year. If you forget, and begin to notice that you need to add more acid than usual, that's probably a sign. It definitely set back my test clones, but better them than new plants.
Click to expand...
If you want to know if you need to replace the probe, why not test it against the calibration solution, rather than setting an absolute schedule on it? There is a membrane on the probe which must stay hydrated, or it will give false readings. My hanna dried out, and I soaked it in my nute solution for a few hours and it started working fine again, although they recommend soaking it in their storage solution for that purpose.
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Mike Young said:
If anybody has ever drained their accumlator, they can attest to the fact that the water is so highly oxygenated that it's milky. Perhaps that has something to do with it. Where's atomizer when you need him?
Click to expand...
That doens't sound right, unless the force which it shot out caused it to mix with air, or perhaps your bladder has burst and is "carbonating" the water. Carbon dioxide does effect ph, and if it were happening it would lower your ph I believe as it's a basic element- acid rain. I remember reading posts by John Guest stating that nutes are stable for weeks in the tank. If the ph is rising, then that sounds like calcium precipitate in the tank perhaps, which does occur in heat (which happens in pressure). Do you filter your nutes with a 1 micron or so filter prior to the tank, or after? I honestly don't know if the filter woould make an absolute difference, but it logically seems like it would help. To be honest- I never checked the ph of my nutes after the tank, only in the res, now I will have to check.
 
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