Uncle Ben's Topping Technique to Get 2 or 4 Main Colas

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Impman said:

  • 'This is the same principle used by fruit orchard managers who create an open vase profile for their trees in order to increase production.'

    Your a fucking dick dude. I use to like reading your shit but you and your followers are ass holes. You think you know all this shit about growing fruit trees? Growers use grafting mostly to get the production they need. IT is RARE to see a grower who just Pruned or topped. Mostly all GRAFTED.​
    Trees are also 'thinned' during the spring to increase fruit size. Im wayyyyy off topic right Uncle Chester

    ​
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And here my dumbass thought grafting of fruit trees is used to obtain a true cultivar of a particular plant. Something that cannot be obtained from seed. Thanks for setting us straight, AS I ROLL MY EYES!
 
Lol, Uncle Ben. I've lived on a small orchard and big farm all my life. Green Peace has even sent people out to work on my farm and learn some permaculture and conservation techniques and get hands on experience. I have friends that are professional horticulturists and PhDs in related fields, but I still learn things from you on a frequent basis. For example, "(fruit growers) use grafting to pair the rootstock with the soil profile and structure such that the scion can best utilize the applied water and soil elements." Makes perfect sense, but I had never once thought about it that way. I love it when you make me face palm, lol.
 
Also have to say thanks for all the work you put out here, only to get flamed by a bunch of people who don't appreciate a professionals time. You take a lot of shit for a guy who's just trying to help. Don't know how you keep doing it.

Thanks again.
 
Rootstocks are almost important as the scion wood. They will uptake and deter certain elements that you may or may not want. For example, one of the parents of the 1103P grapevine rootstock that I mentioned was sourced right here where I live so it is a perfect match for our indigenous calcareous soils and does a great job uptaking all macros and micros. It takes lime and eliminates chlorosis issues, is drought tolerant, delays budbreak (a good thing for those spring frosts we always get) and imparts incredible vigor to the scion, sometimes a bad thing depending on what your scion is. It is now and has been used all over the world for rootstock material and saved the European industry during the phyloxxera plaque.

Networking is what it's all about, eh? Good on ya!
 
I hope I am not out of order by jumping here. I think I read up to page 10 or so and have a pretty good idea what is about to happen. Thanks for posting this I was gonna top between 4th and 5th but this method intrigues me. I have 1 plant just about ready to top but it has a mutant leaf set at the 2nd true node! It grew only 2 leaves instead of 3 at the 2nd node!

I am huge sativa lover and no one grows it around here so I am jumping in. If you got the time to check out my mutant feel free to chime in!

Thanks again!
 
What's funny is I have read the page 1 instructions at least 5 times, and still wind up with 5 or 6 main colas...like this one I just chopped:

IMG_2785.JPGIMG_2776.JPG

:?:
 
Alexander Supertramp said:
Your nodes are not directly opposing. I would say you are trying this method on clones. Read a bit deeper and you will find that this method is not intended, nor claimed, to work on clones.
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AS, you are usually right, but this time, you need to go read the original post, It clearly states, Seedling or cutting and even has clone in parenthesis.
also, see post # 36
 
chuck estevez said:
AS, you are usually right, but this time, you need to go read the original post, It clearly states, Seedling or cutting and even has clone in parenthesis.
also, see post # 36
Click to expand...
I am pretty sure that UB states cuttings must have directly opposing branches at the nodes for this method too work. My bad though saying its not intended to be used on clones. I should have said clones must have directly opposing branches at the nodes in order for it too work. And how many clones have directly opposing branches, not many.
 
Alexander Supertramp said:
Your nodes are not directly opposing. I would say you are trying this method on clones. Read a bit deeper and you will find that this method is not intended, nor claimed, to work on clones.
Click to expand...

Yep, they were my clones...only work from seed when I want a new strain.

The method works even better on clones imho.
 
My question is, once you start flower you get all these side branches that have limited potential, where do you guys draw the line on what to prune and what to keep?

One one hand you want your main colas to get most of the plants attention, on the other hand, more branches mean more flowers
 
It's quite simple for me. I allow the plant to keep what it wants and shed what it doesn't. I feel it knows way better than I. I just supply adequate lighting over the entire plant and let it do its thing.
 
Kite High said:
It's quite simple for me. I allow the plant to keep what it wants and shed what it doesn't. I feel it knows way better than I. I just supply adequate lighting over the entire plant and let it do its thing.
Click to expand...

i agree . i never trim fan leaves unless:

they are dead and can be pulled off with the slightest tension

they are impeding circulation. not really a problem from up top especially if you are lsting, but mostly down below. this helps prevent mold
 
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