vero 29 3000k/2700k or cxa3070 3000k
- Thread starter pedrovski
- Start date
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
This is a really tough choice. I picked vero 29 due to price, but I have no idea if the cxa 3070 3000k medium bins would have been better choice.
It would probably depend on how expensive electricity is where you are
It would probably depend on how expensive electricity is where you are
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
Vero chips are great. A little less efficient than than the cxa 3070 but they're still pretty darned good and the price is easier to swallow. The 2700k or 3000k will both be good for flowering.
coolbreez1
Well-Known Member
I got 3 of the Vero 29 4000k that I am testing out. Good price, built in mounting stuff, plus the plug and play connectors for if you like.
I was reading over one of Pico's old threads and he said the plant that was in between the 3000k and 5000k did the best... So we will see how the 4000k do.
I was reading over one of Pico's old threads and he said the plant that was in between the 3000k and 5000k did the best... So we will see how the 4000k do.
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
The graphs provided by Bridgelux don't include the 2700k so its a mystery just how much more deep red it makes than the 3000k. You may want to consider using 4 of them and run them at 1000ma. Running them softer has the advantage of running cooler and producing more lumens per watt. 4 at 1000ma would use less wattage while producing more light than 2 at 2100ma.
Those Molex connectors for the Vero are not really reusable. I installed them on a veg light I built with 12 Vero13s and discovered that they're nearly impossible to disconnect without breaking them. I just went back to soldering. I find it less frustrating than tiny fragile connectors.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I would assume the 80cri 2700k vero is the same phosphors as the 3000k, only more used. In order to peak closer to red, you'd need to get the 90cri, which many of the experts around here have recommended against for having less total overall power.
I've also heard the experts say that 3000k cxa is nearly equivalent in spectrum to 3500k vero, as 3000k vero is lower in blue.
I've also heard the experts say that 3000k cxa is nearly equivalent in spectrum to 3500k vero, as 3000k vero is lower in blue.
Observe & Report
Well-Known Member
Just leave the pigtail plugged into the Vero permanently and use a Wago lever nut to connect/disconnect to/from the driver. Even if you can solder I think it's better to use connectors/holders and nuts and skip the soldering.
I just want to point again to one of my favorite threads here, Cree CXA Analysis by @MrFlux His figures show Veros to be more efficient than CXAs at 3000K, with an extra dose of red. He uses 4000K Veros in his cabinet to keep the stretch down. They have the same amount of red as CXA at 3000K but have an extra dose of blue for the same power.
I just want to point again to one of my favorite threads here, Cree CXA Analysis by @MrFlux His figures show Veros to be more efficient than CXAs at 3000K, with an extra dose of red. He uses 4000K Veros in his cabinet to keep the stretch down. They have the same amount of red as CXA at 3000K but have an extra dose of blue for the same power.
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
I wish Bridgelux would provide more detailed information on their 2700k Vero. It would make choosing easier! They do have a graph for their 'decor' chip but I don't think its the 2700k. At least they don't say it is. That one appears to have more and deeper red but seems to be unavailable.
guod
Well-Known Member
Mechmike
Well-Known Member
Thanks Goud,
I now remember reading the thread but had forgotten about it. The comparison of the 2700 and 3000k Veros is impressive for the 2700k.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I have spade connectors (quick disconnects) on both wires coming off my vero 29 and disconnect it that way. Does it really need to come off the cob itself? (soldered here )
I'm not sure which option is really better, but it's not too hard to solder so few pads. It's a lot easier imo to pre-tin the pad and the wire first, then push the wire against the pad and heat the wire until the solder melts together. The datasheet says it should take 3-5 seconds with the iron to tin. Imo, it's a lot easier soldering wires to the cob than it is wires to other wires.
I'm not sure which option is really better, but it's not too hard to solder so few pads. It's a lot easier imo to pre-tin the pad and the wire first, then push the wire against the pad and heat the wire until the solder melts together. The datasheet says it should take 3-5 seconds with the iron to tin. Imo, it's a lot easier soldering wires to the cob than it is wires to other wires.
Last edited:
bicit
Well-Known Member
The trick is to lift up on them, rather than pulling straight out. I use them for testing configurations, but they don't seem as secure as a properly soldered wire.