Vertical Scrog - How does it work?

Prawn, I have copycat your method with the screen between the light and plants. It works fine so far but I am not sure if I should help the foliage and buds inside the screen or if it is better to do nothing. What´s your advice?

I'm undergoing an attempt with an "outer cage" method right now.. sort of using the fence as a massive tie-back system that I will train everything back to in order to keep anything from falling into the light. This turned out to be the best solution for me, as the light as a little too intense for the plants at first and needed to be pulled back a little. I could have done an inner screen donut but it would have inevitably have had to be so big that there'd be almost no room to get behind it at all... so for the sake of functionality, what I did was "wrap" the inside walls of all sides of the tent with 3x2 metal wire fencing.

On the side with the big unzipping door, I attached a couple additional strips of wood to the bars to make a narrow doorway, about 13.5" wide. The fencing wraps around to meet the wood on both sides, effectively completing a screen on 4 sides, save for the 13.5" gap. This acts as the entry point, and I built a simple modular vscrog for one single plant to climb on it's own. This single modular screen/bucket sit in the doorway and can easily be pulled out of the tent to allow access to everything.

I'll do up a thread soon... my plants look so mangy right now so I don't want to show it off, lulz. Still definitely dialing it in right now.

Someone said cooling a vertical grow was hard. I couldn't disagree more; these things all but ventilate themselves, especially if one places a fan in the center at the bottom blowing upwards gently.

There are lots of ways to skin the vertical cat and I see no reason why having the trellis in front of or behind the plant should necessarily be better.

I personally find it easier to out the plant behind the trellis and manually place growing tips through, holding them in place with vine clips.

The advantage to having plants in front is that you CAN let your tops grow towards the light, only pulling them back when they get too big. This could be a great way to help train the plant into position.

LakesideWiseman said:

My modular screen design ended up being a fail. I made this one jerry rigged rickety thing out of wood for the plant on the outside, and simply threw chicken wire around the walls for the rest. Still gives me easy access to the back when needed.

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i don't think that chicken wire is going to do ,i tried that on my tomato plants ,friut just grew into wire .thing about your buds ,it's gonna be hell cutting them out of the wire

Thanks for information!))

MartaStuart said:

Thanks for information!))

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i think you are new i dont remember welcoming you to the forum, welcome

Mine is only 40 X 40, Downsized from bigger. In both I had made a Lazy Suzan and turn the plants as needed. Screen to the outside gives me more room and I try NOT to weave my plants into the screen. I hated harvesting when it's tangled in the screen. I only use the screen to pull back & down. This is only a small 3 plant grow,, my other was 8 plant.

May give you an idea?

gualapa said:

I'm setting up my vetical donut grow room and I'm considering using a screen to keep the plants trained towards the light, instead of relying on LST'ing the branches that are on the dark side of the grow. Would setting up a screen in a circle around where the plants will grow be an effective means of doing this?

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I've been waiting for over a day to find out about bulb height position in the middle of my plants. The bulb is hanging and the tip of the bulb is just a little below the tops of my plants. I get the brightest reflection from the plants at this position . Am I close?