Wanting to switch to Coco from Soil for my Greenhouse Grows

Coco is so good because it holds so much air I run h202 to add even more o2 to the root Zone

Buddernugs said:

Oh and always stay in the 5.8 ph range in veg and 3 weeks after the flip keep in at 6.0

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can I pick your brain about drain to waste In coco??

Ya shoot

Buddernugs said:

Ya shoot

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so I put abunch of pictures on there those are the issues I’ve been having lately, I’m using a top fed drain to waste with gh flora 3 series and 25 gallon res sump set up to drippers, I can’t seem to figure out the issue I fertigate three times a day run off at each event, they are in straight coco except one in coco 70/30 the one growing the fastest has the yellowest/ lime green new growth, ph seems to rise too quickly in the res, and it’s got multiple deficiencies showing as well as burn symptoms, tried upping the Ec to 1.5 which caused the yellowing of the leaves flushed and brought it back to 1.0 with 3/4 cal mag and a little less than half of 1/2 of the flora I know they don’t like high Ec with the coco and frequent feeding learned that but what’s up with the deficiencies and burn, is it inaccurate phs? How much is too much of a swing for feeds, and how can I maintain a more stable ph and what is best ph range to feed at I feel like it’s a ph issue, and with coco it self buffers back to 5.9 correct?

Buddernugs said:

Ya shoot

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some purple reddish stems too and dark green thick leaves in some spots towards the top that all twisty and think, I use tap water but it’s only at .1 Ec, and should I switch to ppmx500 and measure like that?

I’d water 1x per day unless they start to dry out aka light when u pick them up so that untill u figure out what the issue is becuase if it’s lock out your only going to make it worse... the Rez and set up is it drain to waist or flood and back into the Rez for further use? Also what’s your water looking like...ro or tap? Tap water heat is 8.5 ph and it will slowly raise over time in my 50 gal Rez... also you should give them a feed and collect the very first runoff in a cup and test it with ppm pen and ph pen...then compare it to the influx your give ing them... after you do that get back to me with the results if u have ppm setting on your pen (.5) not .7 scail use that becuase I’m more familiar with that so I can help you the best I can.... looking at the pics now and it looks like u got some twisted and mutant leafs at the tops which is an indication of magnesium issues... from personal experience mag issues are very shortly followed by cal issues as well... what’s your tap water ppm? I have found that when useing ro water I need 250ppm cal mag for most strains and for tap I bump the ppm of tap water up to 325 with cal mag... sun strains like blue dream Iv ran into issues untill I started giving them 350ppms of cal mag

Looking into convention rates now hold up a sec

Ya switch to the other setting

Are you 100% sure your TAP water with no filtering is .1ec??!! Bro that’s 50ppms!!!!! I’d suck a cock to get my tap water 50ppms lol if that’s really what your tap water is I bet my left nut it’s A deficiency I’d dump your Rez and give 3ml per gal of cal mag (Iv gone as much as 5ml per gal you’ll be good trust me) after you get your tap water to 300ppms with JUST cal mag bump that up to 600ppms so basically I will have 300ppm cal mag and 300ppm of feed.....I know that sounds odd and u are starving them but trust me that formula has taken me to the next level check your runoff ppms every time u feed them if it’s 100+ppms over than what’s going in your over feeding also check your ph as well

Red stems are hard to go by becuase they could be genetic only way to tell 100% that it’s an issue is running the same strain for a few years to full out genetics

On the ph stability.
For me, starting with RO water provides the most stable ph.
My tap is around 60ppm.
I use Jacks nutes in coco under high light levels. Ph 6.0 thru 6.2. Too low and ca/mg uptake can suffer in my experience.

Buddernugs said:

Are you 100% sure your TAP water with no filtering is .1ec??!! Bro that’s 50ppms!!!!! I’d suck a cock to get my tap water 50ppms lol if that’s really what your tap water is I bet my left nut it’s A deficiency I’d dump your Rez and give 3ml per gal of cal mag (Iv gone as much as 5ml per gal you’ll be good trust me) after you get your tap water to 300ppms with JUST cal mag bump that up to 600ppms so basically I will have 300ppm cal mag and 300ppm of feed.....I know that sounds odd and u are starving them but trust me that formula has taken me to the next level check your runoff ppms every time u feed them if it’s 100+ppms over than what’s going in your over feeding also check your ph as well

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Yes my tap is .1 Ec 70 ppm on ppm500, ph out the tap is 7.5/7.6 it is chlorine treated according to the city no calcium or mag in it, and most of there feedings there entire life was 6.3 because I didn’t know much first grow, it is drain to waste, aerated with 4 air stone active aqua pump 30 minutes on 45 off, symptoms got worse after I topped them,and they started growing pretty quick and I dialed back cal mag, to raise nutes 1.3 Ec minor burn and start of deficiencies, then fast forward another pruning but only lower leaves and nodes, installed drippers because hand feeding became a nuisance they never seemed happy at 2 feeds a day, tried upping my nutes again def don’t tolerate anything over 1.1 / 1.2 Ec, jumped to 1.5 Ec, and ran uc roots because I had a little algae build up, that caused the yellowing in between leaves that and new growth irritation, and didn’t realize how fast the ph rises in my reservoir and the ph of my run off was 6.3its always at 5.9 every time I’ve checked, even at the 6.2/6.3 feeds, the res had floated up to 6.7 over the coarse of about 30 hours I knew to expect a rise but not that quick, flushed with phd water then fed low 1/4 strength nutes half strength cal mag, .6 Ec, brought the Ec back to 1.0 and managing the ph as it floats. Never fed below 5.9 ever, 7 weeks from the day seeds touched water to germinate, 2 Frisian dew, 2 green gelato, 1 hulk berry, under 2 720 e growers choice and it’s dialedback to 60%, try to keep the roots zone around 72 degrees, canopies about 78 humidity usually around 55%, it did get mid to high 80s and high humidity a few days before i put the ac in, it was switch to flower tent under bigger lights and needing 2 of them more heat didn’t have to manage it until then

Buddernugs said:

Red stems are hard to go by becuase they could be genetic only way to tell 100% that it’s an issue is running the same strain for a few years to full out genetics

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Red stems on different strains and different seed venders frisian are Dutch passion and I forget what the green gelatos and hulk berry were, someone gave them to me, run off Ec has usually been consistent to inflow except when I installed drippers and upped Ec it was like .8 lower, that was before the flush, like I said it’s my first grow but what I think is going on was a ph issue from the unmonitored up swings and never feeding them below 5.9 I think I had slight cal mag, and p issues, dialed it back too much on cal mag, nute burned them maybe locked them up and over stressed them before flush but they are absolutely still growing I can tell factually because of the net, and fairly quick but I want to flower them and don’t want it to get worse, so you’re advice is 300 ppm cal mag then add nutes about 300 ppm, I use flora series I have been using equal micro gro and bloom, should I switch the ratio of the flora series too I was thinking of upping the micro keeping the flora and lowering the gro, and how to I keep the ph more stable in the res or should I just aim for 5.8 to 6.2 daily swings and adding a little down?

Ya keep it at 5.8 for mag uptake so it don’t get worse you’ll have to mess with it every day which is normal most of the time I’d stick with the micro and grow for the first 3 weeks of flip then switch to strait bloom

Look into coco tek or sensi coco formula a and b it’s a lot simpler you use in veg u use a and b veg and in flower you use a and b bloom

Yes 300 cal mag and 3-400 food

Buddernugs said:

Ya keep it at 5.8 for mag uptake so it don’t get worse you’ll have to mess with it every day which is normal most of the time I’d stick with the micro and grow for the first 3 weeks of flip then switch to strait bloom

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That’s how they are doing definitely growing because I pulled the Scrog net the other day to replace the drippers and pull the tall one to its own space, and the tall one I had all the branches tied straight down now they are pointed back up and a few inches longer but idk they got some weird stuff developing, I’m trying to fix it I wanna flower them soon, and I need another trim or two along with I should fix the deficiencies before flipping them right?

Guntherfredo said:

That’s how they are doing definitely growing because I pulled the Scrog net the other day to replace the drippers and pull the tall one to its own space, and the tall one I had all the branches tied straight down now they are pointed back up and a few inches longer but idk they got some weird stuff developing, I’m trying to fix it I wanna flower them soon, and I need another trim or two along with I should fix the deficiencies before flipping them right?

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Yup that’s 100% mag def the twisted and deformed leafs at the tops are a dead give away

Having the same problems as Gunther, except in soil.

Decarloroberts96 said:

Thanks for your input! So when going with straight coco, you would recommend the bricks? And what About with perlite?

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I would get coco bags the coco is better balanced. I use ecothrive with added charge. Its great stuff.

I would also get a dripper system... makes everything hassle free.

Check this site out and read it fully before committing to coco...