OneHitDone
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear your mechanical skills are soo lacking when it comes to containing such a simple substance as water bro
Water cooled cobs
- Thread starter shimbob
- Start date
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
It's not hard to build RDWC that doesn't leak. It's even easier to keep the water on the floor and the electronics up off of it.
A lil more engineering and you'd have it.
shimbob
Well-Known Member
This particular leak is due to me being sloppy with the lapping. The outlets on these blocks come out the side and the barbs came into contact with the sandpaper when I wasn't careful. I had hoped I could just clamp it down real tight but the tubing is already slightly too big for these water block outlets, thus drip.
Got a pair of spare blocks lapped last night, ready to swap. The biocide was delivered, but can't put any in until it stops dripping into the grow space. That'd make for some really harsh smoke!
shimbob
Well-Known Member
I put a funnel on top of the reservoir to top it off. Sometimes I pour too fast and it overflows. Right next to the 220v wiring down below, fun!
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
shimbob
Well-Known Member
Before and after picture of the water blocks I picked up for $9 each. They all came shipped in a single bubble bag, banging against each other. I think the lapping is warranted. You can also see the middle block has an inlet that's out of alignment, and the barb nicked by the sand paper.
Measured some temps this eve.
Ambient temp outside the tent: 71.1F
Ambient temp inside tent: 23.3C (73.9F)
Temp of the air after it passes through radiator: 23.5C (74.3F)
Temp of the water loop: 78F
There's some algae starting to grow in the tubes that feed the blocks, naturally.
I'm not a big fan of the arctic silver 5 I bought for this, relative to the generic white thermal grease I usually use. A.S. is harder to wipe down into the near-transparent layer that I get with the grease. *shrug*
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ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I've run half a dozen RDWC systems with 6 to 26 sites each. No leaks, and definitely no 240V wiring anywhere near the floor!
I looked closely at the Undercurrent system and then corrected its many flaws. The results worked extremely well for years.
That's a 26 gallon Tuffbox, for scale;
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
It seems I didn't understand that you were referring to your LED blocks and not the RDWC.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Whoa! How did you get these massive root ball through the hole, lol?
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Very carefully lol
Took my time, worked it thru slowly because I wanted the picture!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yeah, for sure not easy ... with all the weight!
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
That plant yielded 32.5 oz.
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
it remember to my haircut when i was 21y -
i would take it to the hairdresser and ask a DDT- cut (Dumb-Donald T. - cut)
and make the picture again.
shimbob
Well-Known Member
Finally found my clamp ammeter.
Cranking down the pot to minimum it measures 0.27A and at maximum it measures 0.68A. At 250v that's only 170watts. I'm being shorted some watts.
I wonder if it's because the total Vf of ~64volts is so short of the drivers' 96volt max.
Light has been great, fantastic vegging. No more leak since I replaced the waterblock with the botched bards. Added a few drops of biocide.
Time to move this light out of the flower tent and into the smaller veg tent to start lighting the next round. I really want to build a new flower light with F- strips but we cash strapped. I don't think I'll water cool that one.
Cranking down the pot to minimum it measures 0.27A and at maximum it measures 0.68A. At 250v that's only 170watts. I'm being shorted some watts.
I wonder if it's because the total Vf of ~64volts is so short of the drivers' 96volt max.
Light has been great, fantastic vegging. No more leak since I replaced the waterblock with the botched bards. Added a few drops of biocide.
Time to move this light out of the flower tent and into the smaller veg tent to start lighting the next round. I really want to build a new flower light with F- strips but we cash strapped. I don't think I'll water cool that one.
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
Thats exactly what's happening. To get full rated power you have to be able to utilize all the available voltage.
shimbob
Well-Known Member
Remeasured the output of the driver, as 64v was from fuzzy memory. It's actually 68v, still short of 96v. At the time I chose the driver I wasn't entirely aware of the importance of maxing out the driver, combined with not knowing exactly what Vf the cobs would settle at, I played it safe and picked a driver where the expected Vf (72v) was smack in the middle of the driver's range (48-96v).
Learning experience!
Learning experience!
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
always check the open circuit voltage of your driver - and then try to get as close as possible to drive out full load.You can always add some adequate led-chips into the row, if you want a higher Vf
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