Waterfarm Closet Grow [PICS]

Shackleford.R

Well-Known Member
yah shack minimal fuck ups!
You know D-Dub sometimes I wonder whether I should laugh along, or send you a digital/virtual/interwebz smack on the back of the head. I'm going to opt for the laughter simply because we BOTH know you fuck up way more often than I do. :hump: giggity!

On a different note, I'm planning my next grow considering a cabinet of some kind, going stealth so I'm thinking one of those garage storage cabinets. Then going DIY crazy on that mofo.

I'm looking around at seedbanks and don't know who I should trust to send me the seed of a controlled substance to the southwest US. Somewhere between New Mexico and Louisiana. (figure it out for yourself)

Anyhow, looking for feminized seed so I don't have to deal with cloning. I'm hoping to have a 6 pot DWC for the cabinet. (This is all talk, till I ask my girlfriend, haha, sad but true her house too)

SO!! I ask you RIU users, do you live in the US? did your seeds make it to you? who did you order from? safe/stealth enough that you would recommend your mother order seeds from them? what is the seed company's definition of "stealth", i.e. what sort of label on packaging, what showed on credit card statement, delivery to home address ok, etc. ????
 

dopewear

Well-Known Member
im going for a new cab this weekend! should be of the hook... but ill be cloning and in soil. because im cooler lol and your right i enjoy fucking up:D
 

Shackleford.R

Well-Known Member
intriguing! that first piece on H2O2 i think i have the same hydro mag. i read it on my trip a couple weeks ago haha. free literature at the hydro store = awesome!
 

Shackleford.R

Well-Known Member
Well the weekend is drawing to a close. I added the 125 W 2700 k hood on Friday, and cut back a few CFL's. No more Y-splitters instead I have cut back to only aux CFL bulbs. To give the plants a little more spectral range, 2-2700 k and 2-6500 k.
Also I went against a few of my instincts and tied back a few stems, just a few to open up for some airflow and allow light to move around a little better. I even tied back one plant to give it a little bit of a gangsta lean also to open things up a bit.

Along with the new light spectrum came a little mock "late summer" light schedule, days are becoming a little shorter. I went from a 18/6 to 16/8 lighting schedule. I think this is enough, along with the new light spectrum, and just the general age of the plant will push the plants show me some sex.... :shock: I mean uh... you know what I'm getting at! I am concerned though that I may have spotted some balls on the larger kid. At any rate, as soon as I see some definite signs of sex the plants will be going 12/12 immediately!!

Now that the roots have begun to stretch and reach the reservoir, it approaches running dry every couple days. I do not have a TDS meter, but I assume it's safe to just top off the reservoir and run with it for a day or so till the level gets a little low, and THEN flush and new batch of nutrients. Which is what I plan to do and at that time I will be going with a transitional mix of nutrients, as per the GH feeding schedule.

I'll post a few photos tomorrow to let you see what the setup looks like now with the hood, and some tie back photos, and some balls photos (hopefully NOT balls though :spew:)

So I leave you with a couple of questions...


1- Will my light schedule (16/8) trick the plants into thinking "fall" is coming, before 12/12 ?

2- Can I spot preflowers without any magnification? If so, will it be too late to snag the males? (keep in mind I'm a newb and don't know what to look for, other than two white hairs or a little bump, or where exactly, other than at the nodes)

3- Is it a bad idea to top off the reservoir without knowing my TDS? (I've gone 2-3 days at a time with NO nutrients at all, just filtered spring water, and it was fine, so I assume??) Could that lead to nutrient lockout of what few nutrients are left?


That's all for now... Jesus that was long!!!
As always all advice is appreciated, from beginners like myself and more experienced growers.
:peace: and keep :joint:
Almost forgot this guy...:hump:
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
1- Will my light schedule (16/8) trick the plants into thinking "fall" is coming, before 12/12 ?
No...

and Yes...

OK... it's not that simple... and I sure don't claim to be an expert on plant phisiology...

But I do know that the Cannabis plant creates the "flowering hormone" during period of dark... and such "hormone" will "dissipate" during the lights on period...

12/12 has been found to be the longest light period "most" cannabis strains can handle while still building up on the "flowering hormones" level...

So yes, your "flowering hormone" will increase, but not sufficiently to "trigger" the flowering (reproductive) cycle...

So.. as it may be that a little shock happens, it is well established that no harm comes from an abrupt change in regime...

The plant wil adapt on it's own speed anyways...

There is not much we can do to "force flowering"...

It will only do it when it is physiologically possible...

Like most beings, it has to have the right parts to make babies (flowers)

2- Can I spot preflowers without any magnification? If so, will it be too late to snag the males? (keep in mind I'm a newb and don't know what to look for, other than two white hairs or a little bump, or where exactly, other than at the nodes)
Yea you can... the GrowFAQ has a wealth of info...

I am kinda tired and I will let you got there and research...

But you can EASILY spot female and male flowers as they develop, with the naked eye...

If it is too small to see, it is too early to tell... way too early...

You will switch back and forth, thinking it's male, no it's female.. unlti the fre flowers actually form...

A lot of people confuse the little bumps for pre flowers, but they are ususlly really talking about new growth emerging...

Check the GrowFAQ it will answer all you sexing questions...

3- Is it a bad idea to top off the reservoir without knowing my TDS? (I've gone 2-3 days at a time with NO nutrients at all, just filtered spring water, and it was fine, so I assume??) Could that lead to nutrient lockout of what few nutrients are left?
You need to know the pH..

I am not sure what you nutrient regime is, but I recommend that between res changes you only top off with fresh water... but it is important to keep the pH in check or you will run into nute lock...

Now... if you live in a place where the water happens to be just the perfect chemistry to work with you nutes.. you might luck out..

User Vette claims to have never check pH in hos life...

But I am sure if he moved to my house he would kill his plants without pH control...

Does that make sense?


:peace: and keep :joint:
Almost forgot this guy...:hump:
Can't forget that guy now...

Cheers...

:joint::peace:
 

Shackleford.R

Well-Known Member
thank you gypsy! as usual timely advice. I'd red you up all night and day if i could. haha. I see the green point of growth at the node (i'm sure you know what i'm referring to) the green leafy/stemmy bit below where the preflower emerges, and i'm not confusing that for the pre flowers, but i assume you are correct in that what i see as balls is probably just new growth bump. oh we will see, its fairly early to start looking, plants are only about 1 month old. hopefully see some something by the coming weeks end..

oh and thank you for the seed bank post. that was a pretty sweet guide, and rested a few worries. haha i'm still convinced RIU network is a scheme set up to suck in naive growers and convince them there is a loving, online community of growers so that that they suck me in to buying seeds and busting my ass... a little paranoid? maybe. haha

good night RIU
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
I trust no one here..

And I get paranoied as fuck...

But I am in a medical state, and have plenty of medical reason to warrant my need to grow..

Still, I just tried to delete my pics and couldn't.. scares me...

Trust no one.. get personal with no one...

That is my advice.. I am SURE LEO is lurking...

Maybe I'm a cop...lol...

Trust no one...

But I think if you buy seeds from a reputable seed bank... you would be ok...

I see no reason to take the risk myself... but I am sure I have taken risks others wouldn't...

Just remember .. it's all fun and games until you're in jail and "Tyrone" wants a new piece of ass...

Trust no one... not even me...

Cheers...

Didn't mean to scare you... 99% OF THE PEOPLE HERE ARE COOL, just no way to know the 1%...
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
All right.. sooo...

I did some digging for you...

This stuff is ALL from the GrowFAQ

And it is available to everyone at the click of a mouse...lol...

I love the GrowFAQ

Well, now I just hope at least some of it helps out..lol..

Cheers Bro!

><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><

What are preflowers?

Preflowers, as opposed to full blown flowers, generally appear after the fourth week of vegetative growth from seed. Check carefully above the fourth node. Please note that preflowers are very small and and almost impossible to differentiate without magnification. A photographer's 10x loupe is handy indeed when examining preflowers.

As the images below demonstrate, the female preflower is pear shaped and produces a pair of pistils. Frequently, the female preflowers do not show pistils until well after the preflowers have emerged. Thus, don't yank a plant because it has no pistils. Pistillate preflowers are located at the node between the stipule and emerging branch.

Also, some female preflowers never produce pistils. A female preflower without pistils is difficult to distinguish from a male preflower. Thus, hermaphodite issues should not be resolved by the appearance of preflowers, without pistils, on a plant otherwise believed to be a female.

Female (pistillate)



Image courtesy of MrIto

Female (pistillate)


Image courtesy of Uncle Ben

The male preflower may be described as a "ball on a stick." However, its most recognizable feature is its absence of pistils. Sometimes, a male plant will develop mature staminate flowers after prolonged periods of vegetative growth. These appear in clusters around the nodes.

The following image shows a male plant in early flowering. Staminate flowers are located at the node between the stipule and emerging branch.

Male (staminate)
[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]
[/FONT]

Image courtesy of PLAYn

Image courtesy of PsycoXul

><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><



How can I identify a female by seeing its pre-flowers?

Added by: 10k Viewed: 496 times Rated by 86 users: 9.06/10 These pictures and quotes were donated from a sexing thread about identifying females by their pre-flowers (primordia) which was authored by "Crazy Composer". The pictures alone speak a thousand words...




Note: The plant parts marked with an "X" are called "stipules", they appear on both male and female plants.


This diagram shows the difference (on a slightly more mature plant) between genuine pre-flowers and actual bud sites, which are - in fact different animals altogether.



From a further distance, but quite clear-cut.
I know how it is for some of the newer growers who are eagerly anticipating their first view of an actual marijuana flower. Well, this is what it looks like, play your cards right and you'll have thousands of these hairs clumped tightly together and covered in crystals that will smell so nice. Don't worry, it's coming.



><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><




What does an emerging MALE preflower look like?

Contributed by: bc-trichome-farmer
Thanks to: FOAF
Submitted: June 11th, 2004

Identifying a true preflower is way to tell sex before 12/12. That way you can take clones from the known females without wasting the time and space on males.

Note:
(Kifit) "do not try to sex a seedling based on the very first preflower you see with a 25x times microscope.....wait and make sure. The time between using a 25x to spot the very first preflower sex and the plant dropping pollen is at least 10+ days away and so it's safe."

"It's best to cull a male only after you are 101% sure - when you see 2 or 3 (or more) immature male flowers bunched together on the internodes or the top growing tip - this is a male, for sure, females preflowers have white " spears " that appear in a vee. ..but "every now and then a sexually indistinguishable flower appears" (Ed Rosenthal)

After a few weeks in veg, plants will begin to show their sex. Usually the males show first. The male preflower is a miniscule ball. It appears that there is a small piece of foliage that covers the ball and protrudes outward when the male preflowers first appear.

The following pics show MALE preflowers the FIRST day they show their future pollen distribution centers.

Many times preflowers will appear at the fourth or fifth node, whereas the plant is on the 7th or 8th node. These preflowers usually don't develop into full flowers, but are only an indicator of the plants sex.





Female on left, male on right. Im only certain about the sex cause I watched them several more days. 25X magnification.

Image credit to: FOAF







><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

After 10 days flowering, what does a female look like?

The following image clearly displays a female plant at about 10 days flowering, using a 400w HPS. NOTE: Indica dominant strains will flower faster than Sativa varieties.

Photo Contributed By: OldPink




><><>><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

After 10 days flowering what does a male look like?

The following image displays a male plant at about 10 days flowering.

Photo Contributed By: PLAYn




><><><>>><><><><><><><><><><><><><>>><><><><><><>




How do I sex using a paper bag?

Contributed By: Daveiscool

Get a small paper bag or something similar that is lightproof (a paper bag will not be suitable for strong H.I.D lighting), and a plastic coated twist tie.

Select a plant that you would like to sex and choose a growing tip. Take the paper bag, place it over the top of the selected tip and seal with the twisty tie. Then, to simulate the flowering phase, simply remove the bag after the 12hr dark period, and replace when the 12hr day cycle ends.

After 7-14 days, the growth-tip you covered should start showing signs of its sex.

Editor's note:
Caution should be taken when closing the bag too tightly around the branch.
A small opening should be left open to allow air exchange and prevent heat buildup. Black materials tend to heat up and the branch may suffer from excess heat, causing wilting.

(10k)
"There is plenty of air inside the paper baggage because it would hold its own blown up shape...sorta balloned over the branch tip."

Contributed by: luckyleaf
Submitted: September 5th, 2004

This is for people that dont have room for clones or just want to know the sex of there plant without takeing and rooting early cuttings.

Things you need:
1 can of black spray piant
1 box of plastic ziplock baggie (sandwich bag size)

Take the plastic baggie and spraypaint the outside of the baggie, then find one of the lower branches that is furthest from the light (this will insure that light reflection on the black paint isnt too intence for heat buildup)and just simply slip the baggie over the branch for 12 hours of darkness.

If you have painted the whole baggie, then no light will get through to the branch when the lights are on. You will see sex on that one branch in 7 to 10 days in most cases.

I have done this many times on inside and outside plants.






><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><






Flower Biology

Contributed by: CSS
Thanks to: GreenHeart
Submitted: September 5th, 2003

A bud is a cluster of single female flowers.

As you can see in the pic, this cola is composed of several sub-units that are will fill out before reaching maturity. In this phase, the plant has finished the stretching phase and is developing bud sites.

Depending on the strain, bud development may start in the middle of its flowering period.






Every single sub-unit is itself a cluster of single female flowers. New Flowers are formed throughout the flowering period. You can see new flower production on top of each sub unit.

In this pic, you can see (above the yellow lines) where the single sub-units develop new single flowers. You can recognize them because the new pistils in formation have tiny stigmas.




Let's see a single flower!
This pic is a pre-flower but is alright for our purposes. It explains how a single female flower formation occurs.

This single flower is called a pistil and the two hairs coming out of it are called stigmas. Male pollen reaches the stigmas and make their way to the female egg cell which is located inside the pistil. This pollination process will produce the seed. Growers tend to prefer seed-less (non-pollinated) sensimilla!




Resin is produced on female flowers and on the leaves near them. It is produced by a particular structure called a glandular trichome.

In this pic you can see on the leaf that resin is produced in some kind of ball over a thin neck. if you have a magnifying glass, you can look in the ball and see color changes (from transparent to white to gold/brown) and determine when resin production and THC % has peaked. Rough handling of buds will break the trichomes off.



Young pistil.
Let's see now how a pistil evolves during the flowering period. Above the yellow line you can see a young pistil. It is thin and has white hairs.









Stipule
Here is a pic of an older pistil. The body has enlarged. The stigmas are still looking for some pollen. The small leaf under the pistil is called a stipule (Stipules are more evident with pre-flowers.)









This is probably two or three days later, as you can see hairs are becoming (starting from the top) brown/red. Probably at this stage it can still receive male pollen.








In this pic I've underlined three pistils that are as mature as the one in the previous pic (more or less). Other stigmas have dried up, probably due to rain and wind. In these conditions some stigmas lose their vitality and start to dry and to become brown/red. This is not a sign of ripening, just a normal event








On the left of this pic, you can see two pistils fully mature. The stigmas are totally colored and dried. The body of the pistil is now fat and is beginning to lose its turgidity. On the right you can see a cluster with pistils in various stages.







The pistil after a couple of days. It has lost its turgidity and probably is not receptive to pollen. it is dying. When all 70/80 % of all the pistils of a bud are at this stage, resin production has slowed if not stopped.










Gradual ripening.
The maturation of the pistils in a bud is not synchronized but gradual. As you can see in this pic, you have lots of pistils at different stages of development. See the dimension of the bodies. At harvest, you will probably see lots of brown hairs, but also some white at the top of each single sub-unit where the new formed pistils are.






When stigmas are dried and pistil is dying , the hairs will easily break and fall down.










>><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>



What is an hermaphrodite?

An hermaphrodite, or hermie, is a plant of one sex that develops the sexual organs of the other sex. Most commonly, a flowering female plant will develop staminate flowers, though the reverse is also true. Primarily male hermaphrodites are not as well recognized only because few growers let their males reach a point of flowering where the pistillate would be expressed.

Hermaphrodites are generally viewed with disfavor. First, they will release pollen and ruin a sinsemelia crop, pollinating themselves and all of the other females in the room. Second, the resulting seeds are worthless, because hermaphrodite parents tend to pass on the tendency to their offspring.

Please note that occassionally specious staminate flowers will appear in the last days of flowering of a female plant. These do not drop pollen and their appearance is not considered evidence of deleterious hermaphroditism.

Here's an image of a hermaphrodite, specifically a female plant with staminate flowers.




Hermaphrodite photograph above by Ot1.




Hermaphrodite pics above by snoofer





><><>><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><

















 

Shackleford.R

Well-Known Member
Very funny d-dub! the sad truth is, i've read all of that. just too damn anxious i guess. after reading that in the grow faq and reading it here now. i've decided i have a few more days before preflower. The areas at the nodes that i'm looking at have some sort of bumps developing. But! nothing clear cut yet as to what sex they truly are. Pics this afternoon...
 

slipperyP

Well-Known Member
Very funny d-dub! the sad truth is, i've read all of that. just too damn anxious i guess. after reading that in the grow faq and reading it here now. i've decided i have a few more days before preflower. The areas at the nodes that i'm looking at have some sort of bumps developing. But! nothing clear cut yet as to what sex they truly are. Pics this afternoon...

They'll show Shack...I was waiting and waiting...then I wasn't looking for a second and bam.
 

Attachments

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Yup yup... they'll show... when they are there...lol...

Shack, now I feel like a dumbass...

I brought you a bunch of stuff you already knew... sorry...

But by the way you spoke, it seemsed that you had never even thought about the subject..

My advice to you is to have a little more confidence in yourself..

None of this stuff is brain surgery... and you are doing really good...

You actually ask BEFORE you do shit.. most newbs ask how to fix their fuck ups..lol....

So keep at it.. and remember, if it took a genius to grow pot, there would be 2 growers in the World...lol..

Cheers Bro!
 

Shackleford.R

Well-Known Member
What the hell, why not share some pointless photos??


Pic 1 a view from outside the grow room, curtain hangs between closet door and the grow space, and for being so thin works surprisingly well as a light barrier during the dark cycle (along with the door shut)

Pic 2 a shot of the top of the new light wing (not really a hood) with my new air purifier sitting up top
here is what the manufacturer has to say about it...

Captures Airborne Allergens

HEPA filter captures 99.97% of airborne particles such as household dust, pet dander, mold spores and plant pollens

Fights Odors
Helps to remove smoke and odors from the air

Quiet Operation
Optional speed settings allow for quiet operation when run on low

Multiple stages of filtration include:
Charcoal – Removes odors and smoke
HEPA – captures 99.97% of particles
PCO filter – Captures and dissolves airborne bacteria and mold
Ionizer – Emits small amount of negative ions to freshen the air
UV Light Tube - Works with filters to destroy germs

Pic 3 view under the light wing, look at that beastly 125 W CFL and those beautiful shrubby ladies :weed: (still got the fingers crossed) you may or may not notice, the CFL clamps i used to have mounted on the waterfarm, have been reduced to one bulb each and are attached at the corners of the wing, to add some spectrum to the area 2-2700k 2-6500k

:wall: now if only these damn things would flower!! :wall:
 

Attachments

Top