We do grow in HS

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
Is that what's that from?? I've asked this question before and never got a straight answer. I have one still kicking. That fucker just won't die!

Nice looking plant Rory! Looks like some sticky goodness
Yeah I only recently made a full switch to electronic, really nice for taking pics :) I have my old mag ballasts on stand-by, many years of service and no signs of slowing down. Plus there is something awesome about this big badass chunk of metal humming away, you can sense the power in it...

Skunkd0c gave me a proper explanation involving real photographic terms that I promptly forgot, but I think I can find the post in his FAK grow log...
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
Oooh ooh I forgot, StOw, how did you get your hands on Swami's gear bro? Few fellas around interested in the old school stuff but it seems impossible to actually buy it. Odd methinks but anyhooo. And a smoke report on the Zazen yet? Still not sure when to give mine the soak, really all depends on what you say about the final product.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Oooh ooh I forgot, StOw, how did you get your hands on Swami's gear bro? Few fellas around interested in the old school stuff but it seems impossible to actually buy it. Odd methinks but anyhooo. And a smoke report on the Zazen yet? Still not sure when to give mine the soak, really all depends on what you say about the final product.

I ordered them from his website. Not sure if it's still up and running .... rumor has it that he and his familia are "relocating". heh!

I grabbed Zazen, Cascadian Frost, and Kali Mist x Cherry Bomb. I germinated half a pack of Zazen. 4 females, 1 culled early, the other 3 grown out. 2 of the 3 were insanely frosty, the other was pretty generic. The smoke was pretty good, but was not top shelf. It lacked any real discernible taste/smell, and the high was not good enough to trump that. Good smoke, but not a keeper IMO.
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
Basically its an interference pattern because mag ballasts flicker faster than the human eye can see but cameras will pick it up especially with the shutter speeds you're using to take pics in areas that bright.
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
Kinda like a tv screen then. Alternating current, it makes sense... On my phone but Skunkd0c sent me a nice little run down for camera settings to get rid of it, I will copy paste soon as I can. Thanks for the run down StOw, you have my kind of standards so I think I will pop Pura Vida or Lotus Larry next... Still have very high hopes for Cascadian Frost. Not expecting OG power but something a little oldschool. I want full flavor though.
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
its not a pack of newport ham:-)
Hey you guys still get tobacco advertising over there?... Been illegal here so long I forgot about those catch phrases. Well then seeing as I am on a roll:

Kali Mist - Taste the Adventure
NYCD - Because real men smoke D
OG Kush - When satisfaction is what you crave (This one I think will do well if you wrote a jingle titled 'All Those Rappers Can't Be Wrong' )
Dirtweed - An Honest Smoke
Nevil's Haze - We promise this time it is REALLY what we say it is

I have a future in this.

Anyhow, as promised, Doc's reply on how to get past the lines on pics, maybe somebody finds it useful:

you have 3 main controls for regulating how much light enters the sensor in the camera through the lens

shutter speed in seconds and milliseconds ( this is how long in milliseconds the shutter that covers the sensor will stay open for
the longer its open in seconds the more light enters the sensor

ISO 80 - 3200 this one decides how sensitive the sensor chip is that processes the light inside the camera 80 is least sensitive
the more sensitive its set at 3200 the more pollution/grain and distortion will show

aperture in f/ 2.0-8.0 this decides how large the shutter opening is the more its open 2.0 the more light is let into the sensor

so you play around with these 3 settings normally keeping the ISO as low as possible 100-200 this will ensure less noise/distortion in the picture, when you adjust shutter speed to something like 200-500 milliseconds 1/200s 1/500s
you could take a picture of a spinning fan and the blades would look still with no blur
this is because the camera shutter is faster than the fan
this fast shutter speed also cures the lines caused by HID
 

Impman

Well-Known Member
image.jpg image.jpg Some yellowing issues. I think it's low humidity. Having some trouble with that wants to drop to 38%
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
I've always found RH around 40% was pretty much optimal.
One of the reasons I dislike soil is it makes it much easier to control the feeding.
My environment is being a mess and my humidity is super high and it's giving me crazy issues. So much yellowing because the plants can't transpire enough to get enough nutes. Hopefully I can get a dehuey soon. As is this crop is going to be dissapointing.
 

Mad Hamish

Well-Known Member
I've always found RH around 40% was pretty much optimal.
One of the reasons I dislike soil is it makes it much easier to control the feeding.
My environment is being a mess and my humidity is super high and it's giving me crazy issues. So much yellowing because the plants can't transpire enough to get enough nutes. Hopefully I can get a dehuey soon. As is this crop is going to be dissapointing.
PLEASE take my advice here Sir, you need a simple ACT to kick the rhizosphere back into place.
One cup EWC per gallon of water, two tablespoons of molasses. Bubble with at least 9litres per minute PER LITRE to push DO2 above 30ppm to get the bioreaction going. Feed undiluted after a 24 to 46 hour bubble, if it smells like good soil before then it is ready.
When you apply, a whole ton of active and dormant microbes hit the soil, most of them die instantly making nutrient available in a truly fantastic fashion. The rest of them will set about immobilizing the other elements and keeping them in a useful place far as your roots go.
Roots sweat, they exude enzymes and hormones. Think of your roots as the queen bee and the microbes as the workers. The roots will exude a chemical code at all times letting the soil organisms know what it needs, and they respond by multiplying or dying off whereby tweaking soil micro structure.
In soil, put the plant in control. They never make a mistake ;)
 
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