Weed that tastes like chemical waste, smells like rotten ass and harsh like sandpaper

xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
jonnynobody said:
Overfeeding. Cannabis is what's known as a super accumulator plant. If you over feed the plant throughout it's lifecycle those elements are stored in the plant's tissue like a fat person that eats McDonald's 3 times a day. Telling that fat person to drink a bunch of water to flush out their fat cells is just as stupid as telling someone to run a bunch of water through their plants to flush out the elements they've accumulated in their tissue throughout their life cycle. Plants don't work that way and neither do we. If you over feed the plant through veg, flower, and up to harvest I can assure you no amount of water you run through those plants will make your dried flower taste good. The same parallel can be observed by hunters deer hunting. You shoot a deer that grew up and ate in a dirty swampy area that deer meat is gonna taste about as good as what that deer foraged on. You shoot a deer that grew up and ate in a more diverse healthy environment that deer meat is going to taste better and less gamey. Same with fish. Have you ever had someone tell you, "buddy you can drop a lure in that water but whatever you do don't eat anything that comes out of that river?" I think you get the point. What a living organism consumes sticks with that organism.

If you over feed your plant from veg all the way through flower does it really matter if you give that plant plain water for 2 weeks? You're just further fucking the plant's nutrition up by now starving it for the "flush" cycle. It's just a through and through poor understanding of how plants work.

The most flavorful flowers grown are those grown with proper and balanced nutrition from start to finish. As the plant is ripening discontinue fertilizer input in the final 4-7 days to allow the plant to ripen naturally as it winds down it's life cycle. But please understand this is not a "flush" to wash out all the overfeeding you've done throughout the plant's life cycle. It's a discontinuation of fertilizer to allow the plant to ripen as it winds down it's life cycle. Whether you're growing in soil or hydro plants work the same way. They use nutrition the same way. And they will both respond to over feeding the same way. Your flowers will burn and taste like shit. When grandma had a tomato garden going and they were just about ready to pick do you ever remember grandma throwing a bucket of bat shit on the soil? Of course not. That would be stupid, right? As the plant is winding down it's reproductive / life cycle the fruit is ripening and the plant is dying off. What purpose does adding additional fertilizer serve? Like I said it's an understanding of the plan's life cycle. Flushing is for toilets. Leeching is just good garden practice to allow a plant to ripen as it winds down it's life cycle as the plant will have no use or need for those elements at this stage of it's life.

Don't over feed and you don't have to worry about this "flushing" nonsense.

Your choice of fertilizer also matters. Not all are created equal. My flowers are more aromatic, resinous, and flavorful running jack's 3-2-1 than when I grew using general hydroponic's maxi bloom. Same strains. Same lights. Same room. Remarkably better quality. Hey, one last thing: word to your mother homie ;)
Click to expand...
But if you don't push your plants to the limits and blast them with heavy doses of P/K in flower you won't get those super duper hugely massive buds. It takes at least a dozen bottles to get the maximum yields and quality. You have to use products that say Big or Blast in their names. If you ain't burning the leaves you ain't pushing your plants to their maximum potential. :bigjoint:

:peace:
 
Herb & Suds

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
But if you don't push your plants to the limits and blast them with heavy doses of P/K in flower you won't get those super duper hugely massive buds. It takes at least a dozen bottles to get the maximum yields and quality. You have to use products that say Big or Blast in their names. If you ain't burning the leaves you ain't pushing your plants to their maximum potential. :bigjoint:

:peace:
Click to expand...
Don't even get him started on the sweetener LOL
 
SamRD

SamRD

Well-Known Member
jonnynobody said:
Overfeeding. Cannabis is what's known as a super accumulator plant. If you over feed the plant throughout it's lifecycle those elements are stored in the plant's tissue like a fat person that eats McDonald's 3 times a day. Telling that fat person to drink a bunch of water to flush out their fat cells is just as stupid as telling someone to run a bunch of water through their plants to flush out the elements they've accumulated in their tissue throughout their life cycle. Plants don't work that way and neither do we. If you over feed the plant through veg, flower, and up to harvest I can assure you no amount of water you run through those plants will make your dried flower taste good. The same parallel can be observed by hunters deer hunting. You shoot a deer that grew up and ate in a dirty swampy area that deer meat is gonna taste about as good as what that deer foraged on. You shoot a deer that grew up and ate in a more diverse healthy environment that deer meat is going to taste better and less gamey. Same with fish. Have you ever had someone tell you, "buddy you can drop a lure in that water but whatever you do don't eat anything that comes out of that river?" I think you get the point. What a living organism consumes sticks with that organism.

If you over feed your plant from veg all the way through flower does it really matter if you give that plant plain water for 2 weeks? You're just further fucking the plant's nutrition up by now starving it for the "flush" cycle. It's just a through and through poor understanding of how plants work.

The most flavorful flowers grown are those grown with proper and balanced nutrition from start to finish. As the plant is ripening discontinue fertilizer input in the final 4-7 days to allow the plant to ripen naturally as it winds down it's life cycle. But please understand this is not a "flush" to wash out all the overfeeding you've done throughout the plant's life cycle. It's a discontinuation of fertilizer to allow the plant to ripen as it winds down it's life cycle. Whether you're growing in soil or hydro plants work the same way. They use nutrition the same way. And they will both respond to over feeding the same way. Your flowers will burn and taste like shit. When grandma had a tomato garden going and they were just about ready to pick do you ever remember grandma throwing a bucket of bat shit on the soil? Of course not. That would be stupid, right? As the plant is winding down it's reproductive / life cycle the fruit is ripening and the plant is dying off. What purpose does adding additional fertilizer serve? Like I said it's an understanding of the plan's life cycle. Flushing is for toilets. Leeching is just good garden practice to allow a plant to ripen as it winds down it's life cycle as the plant will have no use or need for those elements at this stage of it's life.

Don't over feed and you don't have to worry about this "flushing" nonsense.

Your choice of fertilizer also matters. Not all are created equal. My flowers are more aromatic, resinous, and flavorful running jack's 3-2-1 than when I grew using general hydroponic's maxi bloom. Same strains. Same lights. Same room. Remarkably better quality. Hey, one last thing: word to your mother homie ;)
Click to expand...
So I got my answer, I abused fertilizer and now I'm smoking advanced nutrients. I was right after all, it is chemical waste. >:(

My logic was to follow what the label said and if the plant is not showing nute burn or other symptoms of overfeeding then it's ok. Apparently it is not. This time I will do a less is better approach, I will wait around a month until I see signs of nute deficiency to signal that the nutes of happy frog and ffof have run out, then start the GH flora trio at 1/4 the dose on the label and only up if the plant shows signs that it needs more. I don't want to throw out the GH nutes, they are brand new. Can you tell me what jack's products and at what doses you use so I can do the same once I run out of GH?

Does the nute overfeeding logic apply the same way to organic nutes like phytoplankton extract etc?
 
Rurumo

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
It's usually down to genetics, high PPM feeds, or fast drying. The initial drying speed is more important than curing, imo. I've got four plants in my tent right now and 3 of them smell amazing, a wide variety of dank and delicious, but one of them which is supposed to smell of lemon, just has a grungy mud smell to it. Looks great but smells terrible, sometimes it's just the luck of the draw, esp with cheap seeds or freebies (which mine are.)
 
S

Serrated_life

Member
If you dry until the stems snap they have been dried for too long. For a good cure you need to be above 60 RH.

I'm just stealing info from a really good thread on here called "getting the perfect cure"

I would search and link it but I'm too bent and lazy.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
SamRD said:
So I got my answer, I abused fertilizer and now I'm smoking advanced nutrients. I was right after all, it is chemical waste. >:(

My logic was to follow what the label said and if the plant is not showing nute burn or other symptoms of overfeeding then it's ok. Apparently it is not. This time I will do a less is better approach, I will wait around a month until I see signs of nute deficiency to signal that the nutes of happy frog and ffof have run out, then start the GH flora trio at 1/4 the dose on the label and only up if the plant shows signs that it needs more. I don't want to throw out the GH nutes, they are brand new. Can you tell me what jack's products and at what doses you use so I can do the same once I run out of GH?

Does the nute overfeeding logic apply the same way to organic nutes like phytoplankton extract etc?
Click to expand...
I'm using the flora trio on a godfather OG right now. My first soil plant in 10+ years. Not an unhappy leaf on her from top to bottom, right? No magic to the formula. Fox farm happy frog. Flora series at 700-725 ppm. PH adjust to 6.3. Due to my water source being RO I must add cal mag to the mix, so my fertilizer does include cal mag. Again, max ppm of 700-725. Feed, water, water, feed. Sometimes I even go 3 water cycles before I give fertilizer again on the 4th cycle. Easy peezy lemon squeezy :)

20210421_135409.jpg20210421_135414.jpg20210421_135416.jpg20210421_135427.jpg20210421_135432.jpg

Jack's is a different animal. You don't need cal mag because the calcium is supplied by the 15-0-0 calcium nitrate. And you certainly don't need any more magnesium. Jack's has 6.3% in the 5-12-26! That's so much that a large chunk of 321 growers omit the epsom salt or the "1" of the 321 recipe. I am okay with that in veg, but certainly not in flower. You want all the sulfur, but I don't feel it's needed in veg at all when no flower production is occurring. There's no need to waste good fertilizer. Use your GH flora series. It is good fertilizer. I despise the 1 part maxi series in it's entirety. The flora series is good stuff though and I have no reservations using it myself on my soil plants. Why am I using it and not one of jack's soil varieties? Because I've been chasing the flavor of my original soil grows in which I used the flora series on the water, water, feed, water, water, feed regimen and grew the best pot I've ever smoked in my life. It was just amazing. I used the flora series 3 part. I thought I'd give it another go for nostalgia to see if I could recreate the same magic I experienced in my first 4 or 5 soil grows over 10 years ago. So far so good. So that's why I'm running the flora series.

However, I started this godfather OG in soil with flora before I harvested any jack's grown hydro. At this point the jack's hydro flowers taste just as amazing and are of the same top shelf quality as my old soil grown flowers were with the same amazing burn qualities and potency. I essentially only started dirt to get back to the flavor, and jack's got me there in hydro. I want for nothing more. I'll finish this soil plant and she will most likely be my last. Why monkey with all that dirt and bugs when I can just mix and pump water with jack's and achieve the same quality?
 
Failmore

Failmore

Well-Known Member
SamRD said:
I did my first 2 grows back to back. Did you watch the Simpsons? When Homer had incidents at the nuclear plant and the green toxic waste that it produced? My weed tastes like what green nuclear waste would taste like. It tastes like pure chemical and the after taste is even more chemical. The smell is some type of mold mixed with ass. But there is no mold. It's always harsh and unpleasant.

The details:

1) Both grows were blue dream by canuk seeds
2) I used known nutes like advanced nutrients, nothing strange given to the plants
3) The drying and curing process. After the first time messed up I did this last one religiously. Hang it in a dark closet at the right temperature. After the stems became dry enough that they snapped when bended I put them in mason jars. I opened these jars at least 2 times a day to air them. The jars have 62% boveda packs in them. I controlled the humidity with those mini humidity devices that can be placed in the jars and it was always around 57%. Not 62% and I don't know why but 57% is ok too from what I read.
4) The plant didn't have nute burn problems. It had pH issues at one point which I corrected with dolomite lime.
5) Weed has been curing for around a month.
6) I checked every nug and there is no mold. Or I don't know what mold on weed looks like.
My first round was in the jars for about 4/5 months and initially was just like the current weed. After a few months the smell turned sweet, so sweet it seemed like you opened a bag of candy, very uncharacteristic smell. Taste and harshness remained bad.
7) I did a proper flush. For good measure. I know there's a lot of debate on that, I don't want to argue, I just did it so I didn't leave no stone unturned.

Pic of some nugs: View attachment 4882992

I can think of maybe 1 culprit. I used miraclegrow moisture control. But then again, some people say they have been growing with MG for 10+ years and happy with it. Any insight of what might be the issue?
Click to expand...
So if you dried them till the stems snapped. You over dried them and it is what it is.

I feel like I need to make it my personal mission to erase the "dry till the stem snaps" garbage ass advice from existence.

That info is all over the internet and is 100% leading to new growers drying their shit to a crisp. I know...cause that is what happened to me.

Those bovida thing also suck ass imo.

Had some weed that smelled amazing. Put a bovida in there. Smell was gone next day. This happend on several jars. No bovida had great smell still.

You want to dry for as long as you can. The longer the better. But that being said you want to get the nugs in the jar so without bovida the rh is in the 70s.

Then you burp them down to 65.

For me in my climate, drying at 65% stable, it takes 5 or 6 days depending on nug size to reach low 70s nug rh. Most people say dry for 2 weeks. Well my shit would be a crispy critter if I dried that long.

Gotta find what works for your climate and abilities.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
Failmore said:
So if you dried them till the stems snapped. You over dried them and it is what it is.

I feel like I need to make it my personal mission to erase the "dry till the stem snaps" garbage ass advice from existence.

That info is all over the internet and is 100% leading to new growers drying their shit to a crisp. I know...cause that is what happened to me.

Those bovida thing also suck ass imo.

Had some weed that smelled amazing. Put a bovida in there. Smell was gone next day. This happend on several jars. No bovida had great smell still.

You want to dry for as long as you can. The longer the better. But that being said you want to get the nugs in the jar so without bovida the rh is in the 70s.

Then you burp them down to 65.

For me in my climate, drying at 65% stable, it takes 5 or 6 days depending on nug size to reach low 70s nug rh. Most people say dry for 2 weeks. Well my shit would be a crispy critter if I dried that long.

Gotta find what works for your climate and abilities.
Click to expand...
I agree on the stem snap. It should be just before the big stems snap. Small tiny stems snap? Good to go. Big stems snap? Flowers are over dried and a cure won't be possible.

I laugh every time I see people using those lame steel containers with the humidity packs. I know a fella in town that grows some of the brownest most terrible weed I've ever seen. Loves his stupid overpriced steel storage containers with the humidity packs. It just perplexes me. And makes me laugh :)
 
Failmore

Failmore

Well-Known Member
jonnynobody said:
I agree on the stem snap. It should be just before the big stems snap. Small tiny stems snap? Good to go. Big stems snap? Flowers are over dried and a cure won't be possible.

I laugh every time I see people using those lame steel containers with the humidity packs. I know a fella in town that grows some of the brownest most terrible weed I've ever seen. Loves his stupid overpriced steel storage containers with the humidity packs. It just perplexes me. And makes me laugh :)
Click to expand...
If your doing it correctly...they are not needed. The cbd plant i grew my for fiancee, who rarely smokes....is still sitting at 65% 1 year later.

Can't wait to smoke some of my first jacks harvest.
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
This thread is getting dangerously close to a debate on how to cure properly.

That said, I've been super lazy on my last run, which was harvested over a month ago. I just chop branches to short lengths, remove large fans, and hang dry for a week. Then I go into paper bags, usually for another week or so, and then into jars. But the last run I never went into jars. I've just been pulling a stem at a time out of the paper bags, and trim the buds right before I roll it. My trim is very crystally (is that a word?) too. I collected a good couple grams of really nice keif last time I cleaned up my rolling tray. I guess the weather has been mild lately so it helps, but honestly my recently curing laziness smokes bud just as good as my careful cure does.

I really think this is more of a case of genetics. Sure, could be over-feeding, but I don't think the OP said that he burnt the fuck out of his plants or anything. Now he's talking about waiting to see deficiencies to feed them, which will only swing problems the opposite direction.

Is there anything else missing from the equation? Were the plants ever sprayed with anything while in flower? Did you use neem or any nasty stuff like that?
 
Romulanman

Romulanman

Well-Known Member
Serrated_life said:
If you dry until the stems snap they have been dried for too long. For a good cure you need to be above 60 RH.

I'm just stealing info from a really good thread on here called "getting the perfect cure"

I would search and link it but I'm too bent and lazy.
Click to expand...
Welcome to RIU! Nice first post bro.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
This thread is getting dangerously close to a debate on how to cure properly.

That said, I've been super lazy on my last run, which was harvested over a month ago. I just chop branches to short lengths, remove large fans, and hang dry for a week. Then I go into paper bags, usually for another week or so, and then into jars. But the last run I never went into jars. I've just been pulling a stem at a time out of the paper bags, and trim the buds right before I roll it. My trim is very crystally (is that a word?) too. I collected a good couple grams of really nice keif last time I cleaned up my rolling tray. I guess the weather has been mild lately so it helps, but honestly my recently curing laziness smokes bud just as good as my careful cure does.

I really think this is more of a case of genetics. Sure, could be over-feeding, but I don't think the OP said that he burnt the fuck out of his plants or anything. Now he's talking about waiting to see deficiencies to feed them, which will only swing problems the opposite direction.

Is there anything else missing from the equation? Were the plants ever sprayed with anything while in flower? Did you use neem or any nasty stuff like that?
Click to expand...
In my experience if it's good dope it's good dope from day 1 of being dry. Just smoked some maui waui that was just dry enough to enjoy I clipped 4 days ago. Tastes phenomenal! Stoned to the bone! Curing helps distribute moisture evenly and does develop aroma. I think the improvement in flavor is more about the even distribution of moisture that occurs in the cure process and letting the bud stew in it's own aroma. Kinda like aging a wine, right? However, crappy dope isn't gonna turn into good quality dope just because it was cured. What you have then is crappy dope cured to perfection. And it's still crappy dope, but man it'll burn nice and even :)
 
D

Dape Green

Well-Known Member
SamRD said:
Not sure, will check. I got a feeling every weed I have ever bought from a dispensary had black ash.


I did follow the instructions on the nute bottles. I have a new set of nutes, the general hydroponics flora trio. Can anybody tell me what dosage would you recommend for this line? Half? Full?


I flushed 2 weeks before harvest. I researched the amount of water and people recommended a standard amount of water per gallon of pot (can't remember what it was), which is how much water I used. Then just fed water until harvest.


I'm growing everything different this time. Different seed, nutes and soil mix. I hope all my work doesn't go to waste again
Click to expand...
Gotta watch changing too much at once, hard to keep track of what actually worked.
 
firsttimeARE

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Nixs said:
What color is the ash of the smoke? If black then its too much nutes.
Click to expand...
Quit the bro science.

Black ash means bad combustion which means bad dry/cure. Thats it.

Think of wood. Nice seasoned wood burns to grey/white ash. Wet wood burns to black.

Telling me some trees are flushed and others arent?
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
firsttimeARE said:
Quit the bro science.

Black ash means bad combustion which means bad dry/cure. Thats it.

Think of wood. Nice seasoned wood burns to grey/white ash. Wet wood burns to black.

Telling me some trees are flushed and others arent?
Click to expand...
I'll agree with you on black ash being caused by poor combustion. When you ask the question, what caused the poor combustion? The answer gets a little more complex. Heavy metal laden P and K sources have been known to cause hard black ash in addition to causing a harsh smoke that agitates the throat and lungs. Cannabis is a super accumulator plant. The quality of your elements is very important. Implying that all black ash is caused by moisture is a bit simplistic. I've had pot that was dried to a crisp that burned to hard coal. It could be a variety of issues that cause poor combustion. Were the flowers dried too fast? Was there too much air movement? That can and will lock in chlorophyll which would normally off gas in a proper slow drying process. Ever try to burn a green leaf full of chlorophyll playing with lighters as a kid? How'd that work out? Chlorophyll does not burn well. It's much better to allow it to off gas into the atmosphere and give it back to mother nature than lock it into your flower. Between heavy metal content pervasive in hydroponic sources of P & K that's used extensively by inexperienced growers to boost yields and poor drying practices it's not as simple as just saying it's all about moisture. However, I do agree there is an excessive amount of bro science out there that is quite annoying. The grey ash test does indicate a proper dry and the lack of adulterants such as heavy metals or chlorophyll present in the plant's tissue. My maxi bloom flowers did not burn to a nice gray ash. My jack's flowers do. I changed nothing but my fertilizer.
 
Nixs

Nixs

Well-Known Member
firsttimeARE said:
Quit the bro science.

Black ash means bad combustion which means bad dry/cure. Thats it.

Think of wood. Nice seasoned wood burns to grey/white ash. Wet wood burns to black.

Telling me some trees are flushed and others arent?
Click to expand...
I just shared my experience :bigjoint:
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
jonnynobody said:
In my experience if it's good dope it's good dope from day 1 of being dry. Just smoked some maui waui that was just dry enough to enjoy I clipped 4 days ago. Tastes phenomenal! Stoned to the bone! Curing helps distribute moisture evenly and does develop aroma. I think the improvement in flavor is more about the even distribution of moisture that occurs in the cure process and letting the bud stew in it's own aroma. Kinda like aging a wine, right? However, crappy dope isn't gonna turn into good quality dope just because it was cured. What you have then is crappy dope cured to perfection. And it's still crappy dope, but man it'll burn nice and even :)
Click to expand...
Yep. I really need to clean up my rolling tray..

IMG_20210421_151542974.jpg

IMG_20210421_151615029.jpg

IMG_20210421_1516150291.jpg
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
Thanks buddy! My wife bought me the tray a few years ago, and it's served me well. Last time I cleaned up my tray, I got this dry sift from it:

View attachment 4884472
Click to expand...
Dam PJ that pic should come with a frost warning. Whatever you're doing to your plants you're doing it right brother :)
And compliments to the wife. Any woman that's got the good taste and sensibility to buy her hubby a gift like that is when you know you've got a keeper on your hands. Kinda like the girl that will unlock the passenger door for you before you gotta knock on the dam window. That's eternal love and a soul mate for sure :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top