Thanks SO MUCH for this thread. This single (combined) post is the most comprehensive and succinct summary I have seen regarding spectra! I have spent the last week reading DIY LED build threads and trying to extract pertinent spectrum info into a succinct format to base my own build upon. Ended up more confused with the different camps of thought, but this puts it into better perspective. Thanks SDS for doing and sharing the research!Most of that seems accurate.
Though, I'd lower the DR in the later stages to make up no more than 20%.
Regular red should be higher than deep red.
This is my current color mix for veg:
350-400nm: less than 1%
400-450nm: 9%
450-500nm: 11%
500-550nm: 23%
550-600nm: 21%
600-650nm: 18%
650-700nm: 14%
700-750nm: 3%
750-800nm: less than 1%
And for flowering:
350-400nm: less than 1%
400-450nm: 7%
450-500nm: 8%
500-550nm: 20%
550-600nm: 15%
600-650nm: 27%
650-700nm: 20%
700-750nm: 2%
750-800nm less than 1%
And although this is very preliminary, (my) testing has shown that the tric production is triggered by not only some extra blue around 455nm, but also green in the 500-550nm range.
Also, the less you mess with the plants (i.e. flushing all crazy, defoliating like you're on a mission to destroy all cannabis, switching spectrum too much throughout the grow, etc...)
I'm not going to get into the whole flushing, defoliation and exfoliation argument, but I will weigh in on the spectrum changes. The less the spectrum changes (we're talking drastic changes, not little tweaks here and there) the faster the plant finishes.
The more it is left alone, the better it does.
3000-5000k alone, or those same Kelvins with some 580-640nm supplements, your plants will thank you. Trust me
On a side note, do any of you get a lot of spam emails? I get tons, I got one recently saying that I am an heir to some guy from "ong kong", he left me millions, and the senders name was "Brain Wilson".
With a name like that, I bet he's really smart.
smh...
I am left a litte confused as you switched from nm to kelvin. IS this for everything i.e. veg and flower, or how would you tweak this catch all recommendation for all purpose flowering?3000-5000k alone, or those same Kelvins with some 580-640nm supplements, your plants will thank you. Trust me
smh...
Im am confused at why you would come to the LED forum to post that.... not helpful at all. If you don't want to use LED or look at graphs and papers that theorize which color ratios would be optimal for INDOOR growing then don't come to the LED forums. There are multiple pros and cons to growing indoor and out, but making sarcastic comments like that I just don't see the point.
Thanks eraserhead! First question that pops into mind is; for flower then, why start at 4000-4500K rather than starting at warm white 2700 which is closer to your intended target of 3000K?
Well now ...I do it for a more defined peak in the red and extra oomph in the blue, so it can be used in veg and flowering.
For example:
Veg spectrum 4000-4500k
4000-4500k + red (3000k):
And a single 2900k LED:
The levels of white stays the same from 4000-4500k, to 4000-4500k + red, it just looks lower in the chart because of the taller peak in the red.
OK, thanks. From what i understand, WW 2700K would be a more appropriate base for flower rather than all purpose veg and flower.I do it for a more defined peak in the red and extra oomph in the blue, so it can be used in veg and flowering.
For example:
Veg spectrum 4000-4500k
4000-4500k + red (3000k):
And a single 2900k LED:
The levels of white stays the same from 4000-4500k, to 4000-4500k + red, it just looks lower in the chart because of the taller peak in the red.
\NICE WORK! This is where a panel with individually controlled diodes comes in to make those blends in spectrum, or the few different growth phases you have cited. Have/are you trying this recipe? as I see it a guy needs a control box with a PCB for spectrum blending, that incorporates a PC interface, a program with display, using sensors, clocking and switching for lighting, ventilation, nutrient delivery, Co2, and with Hydro you could use electric solenoid control valves for dosing nutrients maintaining optimum nutrients in solution, based on a pre set target range. Probably make sampling easier/possible with solution opposed to soil. The box could have the proper hardware interfacing such as A/C-D/C outlets, various jacks and usb ports for probes, sensors, wi-fi, web cam and anything else you want to control. Introducing CONTROL BOX 360! got your grow controlled! what do ya think?
SMOKE BREAK1
If you wanna try that Doc, try using this\NICE WORK! This is where a panel with individually controlled diodes comes in to make those blends in spectrum, or the few different growth phases you have cited. Have/are you trying this recipe? as I see it a guy needs a control box with a PCB for spectrum blending, that incorporates a PC interface, a program with display, using sensors, clocking and switching for lighting, ventilation, nutrient delivery, Co2, and with Hydro you could use electric solenoid control valves for dosing nutrients maintaining optimum nutrients in solution, based on a pre set target range. Probably make sampling easier/possible with solution opposed to soil. The box could have the proper hardware interfacing such as A/C-D/C outlets, various jacks and usb ports for probes, sensors, wi-fi, web cam and anything else you want to control. Introducing CONTROL BOX 360! got your grow controlled! what do ya think?
