What led strips to consider in 2024?

taproot said:

How are the 301H and LM281B+ diodes. Abay has some decent deals.

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Well the 301H is pretty great if you can get decent deal on them.
I have some of those, but most are 301B's.

The 281B is getting a bit old and loses on some numbers more,
but price might be getting pretty low.

edit: Sry, missed plenty posts about it already

Frankindank said:

With that said, 561's are freakishly old at this point, the worst reliability of any of the midpowers,

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I’d like to hear more about this reliability issue with 561’s, care to indulge?

Drop That Sound said:

For a few bucks more, why not go with full square tubing instead of flatbar or c channel? Then use some cheap alumaweld brazing rods and a torch to cap the ends off so they're water tight. Then tap and drill holes on each of the ends of each bar to screw in some barbed fittings, and connect them all in a loop. It's 2024, and aluminum water cooling components are cheap af!

Of course you should cool off your components the best you can, IMO. I would rather WC the strips and drive the piss out of them at 100%.. if not overdrive them even more than that, and make 2 powerful lights that share one WC'ing reservoir\pump & loop, instead of one light with twice the strips.. and only be running them at 50%.. and still probably end up needing overpriced heatsinks anyway so they don't degrade too quickly. Go hard, not soft!

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I have done this with xpg3 diodes, works very well. I shoulda kept it going, just to many watts in 1 spot shoulda bought longer tubing.

Used a 25 ' copper tubing coil for the radiator, 800 watts wouldn't even get hot on 4' of leds at 90% rated power

nxsov180db said:

You can get the F series 144 diode strips for around 13$, 80 diode 301's are about 14$,

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Have you a link for these strips? That's cheap.
Thanks

nxsov180db said:

K series 3000k (256 diodes) 148lm/watt
F series 3000k (144 diodes) 168lm/watt

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Do you have any idea what you are showing? No currents or temps referenced. No idea of equal or not max temps....come on dude...put just a tiny bit of effort into this.

Let me spell it out for you since you'll never do it...
K seires 256led($10) vs F series 144led($15)

Design 1 in the pic is ~equal LPW's...and look at that K series is putting out almost 2X the amount of light at a technically better efficacy.
15,817lm@175lpw vs 8998lm@174lpw
Design 2 is equal currents...and again the K series putting out more light and at a better efficacy.
9728lm@185lpw vs 8998@174LPW

Again...K are 33% less cost than the F series...or F are 50% more cost than a K...what ever makes you feel better. K has better performance everywhere. And a better built more reliable Led under the hood as well. Whether you care about those extra benefits like sulfurizatoin and thermal cycling or not...it's freaking cheaper and better to have them all.

Extra note - 256LED K series is cuttable and can be cut in half and ran side buy side to match the 2ft 144led F series. Again...for cheaper at higher performance.

Rocket Soul said:

Can you tell me more about the anti sulfurization of the pros? What does it consist in and what difference to standard 281+? Its not a gotcha, im genuinely interested as im looking into making some boards with 281s and appreciate any info them.

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By upgrading Samsung’s highly successful 2835 packaging structure, the LM281B+ Pro delivers an exceptionally high degree of reliability with a surprisingly long lifetime. The new structure increases the temperature cycle to 500 cycles between -45℃ and 125℃* — more than double that of the standard 2835 LEDs, making it especially resistant to variations in humidity, temperature, and sulfurization. These advantages significantly lower any possibility of a blackout, therein allowing luminaires to last much longer than the typical timeframe for a standard 2835 LED.


Sales presentation from 2020... page 18

Moflow said:

Have you a link for these strips? That's cheap.
Thanks

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Frankindank said:

Do you have any idea what you are showing? No currents or temps referenced. No idea of equal or not max temps....come on dude...put just a tiny bit of effort into this.

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It's the efficiency listed for the strips by Samsung, should I have ran it by NASA first?

Great price for the 2 footers.
12 quid arrow, 21 quid on digikey.
I like the F strip double rows. Very reliable.

Here's 2ft strips with heatsinks

cage said:

Well the 301H is pretty great if you can get decent deal on them.
I have some of those, but most are 301B's.

The 281B is getting a bit old and loses on some numbers more,
but price might be getting pretty low.

edit: Sry, missed plenty posts about it already

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Jonesfamily7715 said:

Used a 25 ' copper tubing coil for the radiator, 800 watts wouldn't even get hot on 4' of leds at 90% rated power

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Ahhh yeah!

Just gotta be mindful when mixing both copper and aluminum parts in a cooling loop. Not too big of a deal as long as you use extra anti corrosion inhibitors in the coolant..


What latest strips you think would work best with 4' lengths of 1/2 or 3/4" square tubing? Not sure where to even look on Arrow..

taproot said:

Isn't the bridgelux hort line called thrive..what's your opinion on those; and additionally on the new EB3 series? Other than efficiency has anybody looked at who has the best spectrum for plants from the big boys?

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The thrive isnt horti, its "human centric" : super high cri and expanded blue spectrum but low efficiency, both photon and and lumens. If it had about 25-30% more output is love it for horti but too much of a sacrifice for me. If efficiency wasnt an issue id love to try the 2700k thrives for flower.

Spectrum: our best results in flower quality (while maintaining similar yield) have been from GLA strips and our diy 2700k 90cri + 660 strips from cutter + uv(400/365) on a separate channel.

Drop That Sound said:

Ahhh yeah!

Just gotta be mindful when mixing both copper and aluminum parts in a cooling loop. Not too big of a deal as long as you use extra anti corrosion inhibitors in the coolant..


What latest strips you think would work best with 4' lengths of 1/2 or 3/4" square tubing? Not sure where to even look on Arrow..

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I would buy the diodes on arrow they got Jb2835 g class 3500k 80 CRI 4000 for $39.60 right now which is very cheap, then have adura build those exact strips @Frankindank had on this thread earlier on


High density 44" strip 224 diodes each. G class diodes go up to 1.5 watts each max power. Maybe 120 watts each strip liquid cooled. Would be interesting to see how well they could maintain efficiency running higher amps, when heat is not an issue

Can you run multiple strips,in parallel, that have slightly different forward voltage as long as it's in rage of the driver? For example I was wanting to order a few of those samsung strips above that @nxsov180db posted. The voltage is 46 and the ones I have are 48. As long as I run them in parallel would they work? On drivers that have a range does the driver set itself to a range based on the load? If so will strips that have a difference confuse the driver? How does this work? What if one strip is 45 and the other is 52? etc.

Here's the driver I'm looking at.

taproot said:

Can you run multiple strips,in parallel, that have slightly different forward voltage as long as it's in rage of the driver? For example I was wanting to order a few of those samsung strips above that @nxsov180db posted. The voltage is 46 and the ones I have are 48. As long as I run them in parallel would they work? On drivers that have a range does the driver set itself to a range based on the load? If so will strips that have a difference confuse the driver? How does this work? What if one strip is 45 and the other is 52? etc.

Here's the driver I'm looking at.

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-600H/HLG-600H-spec.pdf

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You wanna use the same exact strips, even if you had 2 different strips but the voltage was the same according to the specs you would still want to use the same exact strips.

nxsov180db said:

You wanna use the same exact strips, even if you had 2 different strips but the voltage was the same according to the specs you would still want to use the same exact strips.

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Is this because the driver somehow senses and sets the voltage needed and it can't do that with two differentials on the circuit? I was hoping with one being 48V and the other 46V it would work. I'd be interested in the electrical reasons behind it.

Thanks!

taproot said:

Is this because the driver somehow senses and sets the voltage needed and it can't do that with two differentials on the circuit? I was hoping with one being 48V and the other 46V it would work. I'd be interested in the electrical reasons behind it.

Thanks!

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It more than likely would work, but model x strips might be given more power than model y strips. You could wire them up and measure the amp draw to each strip I guess and determine if there's an issue, it's just not an ideal way of building a light.

taproot said:

Is this because the driver somehow senses and sets the voltage needed and it can't do that with two differentials on the circuit? I was hoping with one being 48V and the other 46V it would work. I'd be interested in the electrical reasons behind it.

Thanks!

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Should work fine.
The drivers automatically gives proper voltage within it's range.

Just be sure that the amps are fine for each circuit.

Though i agree on this, voltages being very similar within 5%, its probably doable but i feel it introduces your build to Murphy's law somewhat; an uncontrolled element.

It just seems like building in a safety hazard into your build. Maybe im just a worrier and its all ok but id avoid doing it to save a few bucks. If not for safety for peace of mind. Ymmv