What Strain Has Highest Yield

Natural Gas

Active Member
Again, LOL.

I "get" what you're doing here.

Seriously, can you tell me exactly which lamp you're using? How big was your plant when you were done with it, and roughly what is the size of your grow space?
Hey Jogro, Sometimes it is easier (and more fun) to just fool with someone than it is to explain to them that they have been fooled with...

My grow method is perpetual harvest with the intent being harvest a plant a week or so. More or less I hit that mark. I have two grow tents in my basement in piedmont Carolinas (gas fired boiler & water heater housed there too, CO2 = ~1000) and a germination and clone area. The germ/clone is on a bench under four, four foot T-5s running 24hr on...The veg tent is 3 x 3 with HydroGrow 189X LED running 20/4...The flower tent is 5 x 5 with 9 (stand alone not supplemental) Kessil H150 Magentas 12/12...I recently switched to the Kessils from a GrowLight OG 1000w for lots of reasons I know you won't need to have explained but the main three, here for the sake of the thread, being coverage, heat generation and hot spot...I run nine plants, three strains soil grow in seven gallon Smartpots. Each plant has a dedicated Kessil...Metered energy consumption reduced by 40% over the OG and fan. Average in tent temperature reduction 8 degrees from 82 to 74. Kessil introduced a new H150W and the price on the H150 fell to $89.

My high school friend and later college room mate lives in my neighborhood and grows. He runs two 3 x3 tents and is vegging with Kessil Blue H150 stand alone. He wishes he had gone with the Purple.

http://www.kessil.com/horticulture/H150.php

http://growershouse.com/kessil-h150-led-grow-light-magenta

Plant height at harvest was 42 inches...Overall height in Smartie was 52 inches. Trained for four colas.

Soil is an organic peat based blend and I supplemental feed with Miracle Grow. I use Jack's and DynaGrow too but just MG with the Y Griega strain. I don't remember why. I also foliar spray daily in veg with 1/4 strength MG and Proteck.

Yeah, I can yield more, smaller pots, less veg, shorter flowering strain, but at about 3-4oz every couple of weeks I can get overwhelmed...Rosenthal was right, Smokin' pot may not be addictive but growing it sure as hell is!!!

My belief is that yield should be measured in pounds of fun divided over the period of a lifetime...FWIW
 

Dan Kone

Well-Known Member
Why not?

If all you're interested in energy efficiency, or just to get a ballpark estimate of relative performance, I think its perfectly fair to compare yields of one lighting system against another.

Because most people who grow indoors grow with some type of space restrictions. Also the type of bud you're getting from an LED grow is likely very different than the type of bud you're getting from an HPS grow. Pretty much all the bud coming off LED grows (with the exception of a few top buds MAYBE) is what is considered to be larf on an HPS grow and not counted towards final weight.

If you're looking at over all efficiency you have to consider space restrictions.

But as you suggest, there is a lot more to it than simple g/w. Yield is not even close to the only important measure. Bud QUALITY matters do, and by most accounts you just don't get the same sort of bud density/bag appeal with LED as you do with HPS. Startup and maintenance costs are imporant: HPS systems are much more simple and inexpensive as an upfront investment, plus unlike LEDs they're user serviceable with ballasts and bulbs cheap and readily available. In many/most cases, the limiting factor to grow size isn't energy, its SPACE. So even if HID lights are less efficient than LED, if they can put out more yield/sq-ft, they may be a better choice.
Yeah that! I should really read whole posts before I respond. Probably save me some typing.
 

Natural Gas

Active Member
Because most people who grow indoors grow with some type of space restrictions. Also the type of bud you're getting from an LED grow is likely very different than the type of bud you're getting from an HPS grow. Pretty much all the bud coming off LED grows (with the exception of a few top buds MAYBE) is what is considered to be larf on an HPS grow and not counted towards final weight.

Hey Dan, Would need to again disagree with you this time with regard to bud formation under LED...Larf and bud density are more a function of grow (pruning, training leaf removal under the auspices of light blocking) and nutrient supplementation and sometimes genetics (phenos growing viney) but mostly grower error, IMHO...The Y Griega I described above produced four lovely 18-20 inch colas all tight and frosty...There was very very little leaf fade at day 80, the last time watered. Take care of the leaves because it is the leaves that take care of the buds...Buds were tight for a Haze genetic background and full of frost. Trichome withering was 30-50% at day 87.

I did not (and do not) use bloom specific nutrients...MG All Purpose full strength (about 1000-1100ppm) at the first sign of yellow. I also believe flushing causes more problems than it solves when flushing is done for no particular reason...There is a perceived, on my part concern, as to light penetration through the canopy and that is because I can not see it...Makes me second guess longer veg times...On the other hand it may underscore the LED's efficiency...

If you're looking at over all efficiency you have to consider space restrictions.

One space restriction overcome with the Kessil's is height...My Growlite OG is 20 inches in height...Means my grow tent could be reduced in height by two feet because the Kessil's are 4 inches in height and so quiet I can hear the pot grow (g)...

Jury is still out for me but the scales are tipped in the direction of the newer technology...My OG, ballast, two Hortilux bulbs (MH & HPS), fan, ducting and clamps were about $900 including shipping...9 Kessil H150s were $825 including shipping...Electricity cut by 40%. Noise & vibration cut by 100% (but I am half deaf anyway)...Water consumption cut by at least 40%...FWIW

All that said; whats left to bitch about



Yeah that! I should really read whole posts before I respond. Probably save me some typing.
So let me know your thoughts
 

ROLLING12

Well-Known Member
wow... i'm speechless... huh... again, standardizing data would be great among breeders/seed banks... Wait, so then for indoor growers, shouldn' the question be more like "which strain(s) has the densest buds with the shortest node intervals and is most branchy?" maybe? You guys ever grow "king kong" by dr underground and the 818 headband aka sour og by cali connection as they are supposed to yield up to 800g/m² indoors? Thanks!
 

kinddiesel

Well-Known Member
120 plants so you will need, 20! 1000 watt bulbs , two 3 thousand watt ac machines running 12 hours a day , ac generator, 10 burner min running at least 6 hours a day. another ac machine to keep the rest of the area cool. 75 to 85 f . that's if you do one cycle veg to flower. electric bill will be average. 1700 a month and is 120 plants legal . not to mention 2 days to run all the 220 electric. 400 dollars. to do it your self, don't attempt to do this in a house you will fail. you will need a big garage warehouse, eather way good luck
 

Jogro

Well-Known Member
critical mass and big bud are the same thing fyi yall, supposedly an enhanced version of big bud.
Yes, critical mass is supposed to be a "rework" of the original big bud, My understanding its that the line is bred from the same original parent stock, but selected differently, mainly for better potency. IE, they aren't "quite" the same thing, though they are related.

Never tried either, but the original "big bud" goes back a LONG time, at least to the late 1980s, if not older than that, and its known for two things: Super-high yield, and low potency.

Supposedly the critical mass rework is more potent. Its probably a great strain to grow if you care more about quantity than quality.
 

Jogro

Well-Known Member
Because most people who grow indoors grow with some type of space restrictions.
Again, it comes down to what exactly you're trying to compare.

If you're trying to measure SPACE efficiency, you can quantify your output in yield per unit area per unit time. . .regardless of power input. IE, who can squeeze the most buds/week out of a 4x4 space? If space is the limiting factor, and I can put out 30% more yield/day-square foot does it really "matter" that it "costs" me 60% more energy to do it?

If you're just comparing LIGHT efficiency, its perfectly fine to look at yield/watt-hour. That's the quick and dirty way to do it.

Also the type of bud you're getting from an LED grow is likely very different than the type of bud you're getting from an HPS grow. Pretty much all the bud coming off LED grows (with the exception of a few top buds MAYBE) is what is considered to be larf on an HPS grow and not counted towards final weight.
Stipulating that you're correct about this, that's really sort of a different issue/question.

If you're not a commercial grower (and I think most of us aren't) then "bag appeal" is mostly irrelevant. Its nice if you can get it, but honestly, if you're the only one ever going to see the buds, and you're just going to grind the stuff up anyway, who cares? Low operating temps and convenience of an LED may be more important than bag appeal for someone growing in a really small space for personal use.

Even with your "Larf" (that's a funny word!), you don't actually just throw it away, do you? Presumably you're still recycling it into hash, or selling it at some steep discount, right? So even if it doesn't count towards your measured poundage for dispensary vendage, its not "non-existent". . .you are getting some use out of it, and it would be fair to measure it, I think.



If you're looking at over all efficiency you have to consider space restrictions.
"Efficiency" can refer to more than one thing, that's my point.

Are you trying to maximize yield per unit area or yield per unit electricity?

My "answer" is neither and both. . .you're probably trying to maximize yield for your individual setup, which itself is some sort of compromise based on budget, space, heat/ventilation, security, and other concerns. I think if the herb were truly "free", people would be growing outdoors in greenhouses, and indoor growing would be sort of a small niche/hobby thing. . .as it is with most other plants.
 

Natural Gas

Active Member
wow... i'm speechless... huh... again, standardizing data would be great among breeders/seed banks... Wait, so then for indoor growers, shouldn' the question be more like "which strain(s) has the densest buds with the shortest node intervals and is most branchy?" maybe? You guys ever grow "king kong" by dr underground and the 818 headband aka sour og by cali connection as they are supposed to yield up to 800g/m² indoors? Thanks!
Hey Rolling, Yield, for the purpose of the thread as I read it, is about collecting weight efficiently. But weight of what? Measured using what criteria?

You may need to produce a yield of a pound of something per square yard cause you want to turn $3000 every three months or so out of your 3 x 3 GrowLab. If that's the case "bag appeal" net weight and THC content might be your criteria.

The process for me starts with; what is it that I want to accomplish or what do I want as an end product? The answer might be get a psychedelic buz reminiscent of the sixties or CBD med for friend undergoing chemo or maybe hash making and sometimes it is "hey I gotta grow some o' dat shit I just read about here on RIU". Once I know what I want to end up with I go s33d shopping...Now I want to grow so that I get the most bang for my buck...The s33d I buy is the least costly part of my process...I like to grow "pretty" kinda ornamental...I like the look of big green leaves on well behaved colas...I enjoy my grow whether it is tomatoes, pot or roses...I tend not to be too concerned with the outcome...If I do a good job I get great "yield", read here "self-satisfaction"; weight is only one measure...If I have a problem with the grow I will learn something that I will try to share. Some strains I will not grow again because my expectations (return on investment, self-satisfaction) were not met...Did not mean to go all Zen on ya'...FWIW
 

Thecouchlock

Well-Known Member
Just remember when you pick your strain that you need to factor in vege and flower times along with end weight.

For example: Blue Dream can finish up in 8 weeks, I get around 50g per plant in that time adding 2 week veg and that's a 10 wk turn around.

now switch to sour diesel or a haze and you run 9-12 weeks plus 2 wk veg...if you still only get 50g a plant then your wasting your turnaround time which decreases your profit.

stick to a 7-8 wk strain and you gain an extra cycle per year!
 
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