White Widow, First Grow

@f series
Thanks for all the information. I think I need to take bit more time to wrap my head around DIY lights. Its more the fact in case anything goes wrong I would have no warranty or that's the usual consensus with DIY projects especially if it was my fault for doing something wrong that caused the malfunction, and that is highly likely since I am not skilled with any electronic circuitry in the slightest. Don't get me wrong I am definitely interested but I need to understand more rather than just getting the bits and pieces and slapping it together quickly.

Following.

Good luck, man!

Poobzilla said:

@f series
Thanks for all the information. I think I need to take bit more time to wrap my head around DIY lights. Its more the fact in case anything goes wrong I would have no warranty or that's the usual consensus with DIY projects especially if it was my fault for doing something wrong that caused the malfunction, and that is highly likely since I am not skilled with any electronic circuitry in the slightest. Don't get me wrong I am definitely interested but I need to understand more rather than just getting the bits and pieces and slapping it together quickly.

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I think the only thing you could do wrong is plug in your driver then press the neg end to a positive end lol.

You could order your components, build your light, and use it in less than 5 days if you live in US

Got an update and looking for advice.
Just had the thought to check under my tray for roots and low and behold I have one plant with about an inch and a few tendrils, the gimp has a few poking out also.
I know I need to repot but soil is too moist and will not freely leave the tray. I have a 2"X2" cell tray that sits on a mat that wicks water and nutes from tray below. You will see on pics.
I have taken the mat out of tray and placed the tray on the mat on the floor of my tent. I am hoping this will help soil dry while keeping exposed roots moist so I can slip seedlings out of tray.
Have I got the right idea or should I place tray directly on the frame that suspends the mat so it has no contact with moisture?
Also wondering if i should hang my tube heater rather than have it on the floor.

Added a few more pics just showing my equipment. I love my paper towel that tells me I'm pulling fresh air through the vent.

I go right from germinated seeds to their "forever" pots. (5gal fabric) So, if it were me, I'd get them into their pots at this point. They're obviously wanting to spread out down there. It'll take a few days for them to recover after the transplanting, but then they should be creating easy down there.

Just my thoughts....I could be wrong.

f series said:

This is the best one I could find I guess, I may have a detailed one on another site but idk sorry

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Can you forward a link from Home Depot with what devices you talking about?

CptTripps said:

I go right from germinated seeds to their "forever" pots. (5gal fabric) So, if it were me, I'd get them into their pots at this point. They're obviously wanting to spread out down there. It'll take a few days for them to recover after the transplanting, but then they should be creating easy down there.

Just my thoughts....I could be wrong.

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I got some 2 gals and some 5 gals both fabric. I prepped the 2 gals with soil and perlite as from what I was led to believe if you let the roots form in a smaller pot and repot when they become limited then they form a bigger root structure once they have been re-homed in a bigger pot.
This is just going from what I remember when my mum forced me to help in her garden. "Better roots, better fruits" lol

Well...time will tell if repotting worked. They are in 2gal/9litre pot.

Watered each plant with a litre of water with nutrients at manufacturers recommendations. Made sure to try and water around the plants to encourage roots to seek the water. Do not have saucers for my pots yet as heard I should be watering with 20% runoff so only watered with a litre to avoid run off and because they are still seedlings. Tried not to touch seedlings while watering but shit happened with 1 of them. Took water off with a cotton bud.

Give them a day or two to recover. They should be a-ok. Looking good so far.

Taking a second look at that pic I took I might add a little more soil to that back plant, soil is lower than others and the stem is pretty long. I have affectionately named him gimp due to the deformed true leave it has.

Poobzilla said:

Taking a second look at that pic I took I might add a little more soil to that back plant, soil is lower than others and the stem is pretty long. I have affectionately named him gimp due to the deformed true leave it has.

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yes, you should have the soil level with the top of the pot, not compacted at all. This will also help keep you from watering too fast, and you will know if you are watering too often. If you water and the water doesn't sit on top of the soil for a bit, you didn't wait long enough between watering. If you do this, and you water too fast, water and dirt will spill over the edges, and nobody likes constantly cleaning so you won't water so fast. As time goes, the dirt will compact a bit so you then add a little on top to keep the level

Just what i do, but nobody has showed me a better way and i don't think they will

Powertech said:

yes, you should have the soil level with the top of the pot, not compacted at all

This is one of if not the most common problem I see people making

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I did not compact the soil, put soil in and mixed with some perlite, made a well for seedling to be placed and brushed over soil. I know I could have the soil to the top but it won't be worth risking plants as may have to remove to prevent leaves from touching soil. Have added a little more soil to all pots. Will post a pic shortly.

And voila

Poobzilla said:

I did not compact the soil, put soil in and mixed with some perlite, made a well for seedling to be placed and brushed over soil. I know I could have the soil to the top but it won't be worth risking plants as may have to remove to prevent leaves from touching soil. Have added a little more soil to all pots. Will post a pic shortly.

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Fabric pots, grab some good scissors and cut the sides own. problem solved

Well, I have ordered the Scope 220 V2 from DIYLEDUK so my light troubles are hopefully over. Just need to stick with this Phlizon for the time being.
Have it real close to plants without any bleaching and they are still growing so that's good.

I have White Widows going too w/Advanced. Good work.

Seems there are a few of us that started White Widow recently. It was my favourite strain in the dam and recently found out there is a g13 cross which would combine my fave with my first dam smoke. G13 almost made me puke. Was not used to that level of weed back in '08.

rmax said:

I have White Widows going too w/Advanced. Good work.

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Are you using the advanced in a 1:1:1 or are you doing anything different?

Poobzilla said:

Are you using the advanced in a 1:1:1 or are you doing anything different?

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I use FFOF in 3 gallon pots. The first crop was nutrient fried badly using full strength. I was alternating between watering with 1/2 gallon of water and a 1/2 gallon of nutes every few days.

I've got a second crop that looks good right now at about 6.5 weeks flowering. These showed some slight nutrient burn on a few leaf tips last week so I flushed them each with a gallon of Florakleen, 10 ml per gallon, last Wednesday.

After this Florakleen flush I flushed them with 1/2 gallon of nutrient solution. Until now I never flushed because it takes one to two weeks for the pots to dry out. After a big flush the pots are saturated.

Since this flush I switched nutes to 5ml each of the Bloom, Grow and Micro and 5ml each of Tarantula, Nirvana and Sensizym per gallon of water. The plants are still wet from last week.

Now I'm concerned about root burn if I don't flush and root rot if I do because they don't dry out fast enough.

With that in mind, I've got another crop just starting under MH. In those pots I changed the soil formula to 1 part coarse perlite to 2 parts FFOF. Hopefully I can get the soil to dry by five days after a flush.

To answer your question, I switched nutes to 5ml B, G, and M per gallon . And lightened the soil by cutting with 1/3 perlite.

Keep up the good work man you seem to be on a good path I'm along for the ride...