Who Needs Help?Ask Here..

Me Gusta said:

What is considered day one? The day the seed is planted or the day that it pops out of the ground? I am on day 5 and I'm wondering if my plant is "behind schedule"

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Depends on the grower.

I planted some seeds on February 8th. On February 13th the seedlings started to push out of the ground. By the 15th, all of the seedlings had started. So, for a group of seedlings I have some that arrived almost 48 hours before others. This is why I consider my Day 1 to be the 16th.

A 5 day old seedling should have the first set of leaves present and it should be working on adding the second set as well. Earlier on in life the difference of just a day or two can be pretty big. Later on though, it doesn't matter much.

Here's a picture of my seedlings after ~5 days.

Any help on how to get the ph balanced organically mine is 6 right now ++ rep for help

my seedling keeps falling over, any insight on why would help alot

I have a quick question, if you are growing a certain strain and there are different pheno types and one is more sativa
will it take longer for it to finish? I bought some seeds and it said that outside it should finish in Sept. outside. I wonder if
the sativa pheno will be later in the fall...

retret said:

my seedling keeps falling over, any insight on why would help alot

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Your light source is too far away, causing it to stretch, and you are not using a circulation fan to gently "knock around" the seedling in order to strengthen it. This has got to be in the "already asked questions" sticky thread, and asking this kind of question here only demonstrates your lack of knowledge on the subject. Seedling 101 is something you should know because there are only a few rules. A close light source and fan are among those rules. 10 minutes on the newb forum in the instructional threads would have saved your plant. Chalk it up to indolence.

puck1969 said:

I have a quick question, if you are growing a certain strain and there are different pheno types and one is more sativa
will it take longer for it to finish? I bought some seeds and it said that outside it should finish in Sept. outside. I wonder if
the sativa pheno will be later in the fall...

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I will probably require a little extra time to finish outdoors versus the indica leaning phenotypes but, probably, not by a large margin. It'd actually be nice because you can be trimming the earlier finishers while the later finishers are still drying. Sort of breaks up the workload that goes along with harvesting.

well the title says Who needs help?? ask here.. thought asking a Q before i go threw a bunch of forums would be ok on a threads that asks me to ask question. but i apreciate the reply either way as i did not know the plant needed the fan for that

Snow Crash said:

Wow... This is all so off track.

Why do I feel like none of these questions can justify answering?
@rfisher: yes... Why wouldn't you be able to?
@zack91: Do some research. You're in for a long summer...
@irishfarmer: This happens with some less stable strains. Use 12/12 lighting for flowering.
@chicago gooner: "Beginning of flowering" needs to be defined. From the start of 12/12 to harvest, 60 to 65 days is about average. Quite a bit depends on the genetics of the plant.
@rjcoon: That's what plants do.
@lydiab: You're asking in the wrong place. Most people just use water. Try google "www.rollitup.com: clearing solution" And be specific with the brand name.

Not to hate... but a little self-teaching goes a long way. Most of this information is already available to someone with the internet and the capacity to use it.

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I have a question, I have a plant, how much will it yield me?
j/k. I totally agree. Research is easy for anyone with internet.

What RPK can I put on 10"carbon filter??Id like to use a 5 or 6" with obviously a reducer but will the fan still suck same amount of air as its suppose to??or will it struggle to pull air threw the bigger filter??
Any one who knows message me plz

Hey, do I want to use an inline fan or a blower to cool my 600 watt cool tube? thanks

ok here is my problem!!! 6 days ago i planted a clone in my 5 gal DWC and it does not look like its growing. the roots are going crazy and looking great but no growth up top. I have been looking for the reason for 45 mins and i cant seem to find anything is this normal of do i have some sort of lockout please help me.

also is 6 26w 6500k cfls be enough to veg???????

rjcoon26 said:

ok here is my problem!!! 6 days ago i planted a clone in my 5 gal DWC and it does not look like its growing. the roots are going crazy and looking great but no growth up top. I have been looking for the reason for 45 mins and i cant seem to find anything is this normal of do i have some sort of lockout please help me.

also is 6 26w 6500k cfls be enough to veg???????

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What nutrient system are you using?

If the roots are growing then the plant is "okay." Some clones don't take to stress as well as others and take longer to respond.
That is enough light to veg, yes.

fatstony said:

Hey, do I want to use an inline fan or a blower to cool my 600 watt cool tube? thanks

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Either. It is a personal choice.
A blower will have the motor outside of the fan, which will generate its own heat as well. Inline fans have the motor contained inside. If you plan to keep the fan inside of the grow space it is probably more efficient to use an inline fan.

ok cool thank you.

I am using GH flora trio
also i herd that if you use RO water then you should use CalMag. is it a must?

i would appreciate your hellp. im looking to organize a perpetual garden, i want to instate a 2wk harvest cycle ideally. just the basics, at which wk to clone to replace flowered plants? using fox farms for first indoor grow, any help on alternate schedule as opposed to the recommended ff schedule.? thanks guys/gals

rjcoon26 said:

ok cool thank you.

I am using GH flora trio
also i herd that if you use RO water then you should use CalMag. is it a must?

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As long as the nutrients are dialed you shouldn't need any additional Cal-Mag than what is in the system. The Micro is at 5% Calcium, the Bloom at 1.5% Magnesium. You'll need to do some finessing there, but I don't see the need for more than what you have already unless the ratios are not in tune with the phenotype.

Misslelanien said:

i would appreciate your hellp. im looking to organize a perpetual garden, i want to instate a 2wk harvest cycle ideally. just the basics, at which wk to clone to replace flowered plants? using fox farms for first indoor grow, any help on alternate schedule as opposed to the recommended ff schedule.? thanks guys/gals

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How much money are you working with? What kind of space do you have to grow in?
Run a search for other perpetual grows. You'll need to be setting up clones every 2 weeks if you are harvesting perpetually every two weeks. Maybe you are over thinking it. Really, not a difficult process once you get the veg and flower rooms setup and the mother plant going. Figure out how many plants, and of what size, you can fit in your flowering chamber. Then figure out the flowering time and divide that number by two. Then take the total number of plants, and the number of cycles you'll have in the flowering room, and make that many clones every 2 weeks and accommodate an appropriate amount of rooting and vegging time to get them to the proper size before flowering.

If you had a 10 week flowering strain, and could fit 15 medium sized plants in the flowering chamber then you could take 3 clones every two weeks. After 10 weeks of cloning and budding the flowering chamber will have 5 groups of 3 plants all 2 weeks apart with 3 plants about to be harvested and another 3 plants ready to be moved from veg into flowering.

If I know the resources you have I can better assist your plans.

when will my roots come out of the rock wool cuttings. I took them 2 weeks ago.

why are my leafs curling during my budding cycle i cant figure it out my npk ratio is fine it just started happening anyone???

kingces13 said:

my npk ratio is fine...

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I bet you it isn't
*hint*

Probably nitrogen excess if they curl down or salt buildup if curling up. Watch your magnesium levels.

View attachment 1502363hey, what i think are preflowers on an auto i have growin have started turnin browny red. Have looked up topic but cant find much. snow crash you know a lot, any ideas. there have been no big temp changes, overwatering, no nutes etc... heres a pic of what i thonk are the preflowers.

They aren't looking bad to me. Some phenotypes produce a kind of pink/purple pigment in the pistils and it could be this color that you are seeing. If they do get brown and shrivel fairly soon after arriving that could be an indication of a nutrient or pH issue with the media. I have seen overfeeding during the 2nd and 3rd week of flowering have the same affect on more mature flowers. This could be similar.

Verify that the media has the appropriate pH and nutrient density; organic material can break down slowly over time and after a month or two the soil can reach a high nutrient density if the runoff has been inadequate. Do this by running plenty of water through the plant and collecting the run off. I would aim for about 2 liters of run off for every gallon of soil. This isn't really a flush, just kind of a rinse, or a reset. You're using pH balanced water and kind of rinsing the organics through to ensure that the soil is cruising.

You may want to use Reverse Osmosis filtered water for this procedure. Top dressing the soil with a little crushed dolomite lime (1-2tsp/gallon) to keep the pH buffer and micro-nutrients available. I suggest this because the source of your issue may not be the soil or the use (or non-use) of nutrients. It could very well be your tap water. Municipal tap water (city water in places where the population exceeds 100,000) is usually extremely poor quality. Generally it is reclaimed and treated sewage mixed with reservoir and piped in water that is subject to the wiles of nature and pollution. If this is the case for you, get a look at your water report and try to find the readings in your area for the water EC, and ppm (or ppb) analysis for all particulates. High levels of sodium, calcium, or bicarbonates should be avoided. It is good to know what you are drinking and feeding your plants anyway.

Don't do anything drastic. That's the key. Just rinse the media, make sure the temperature, pH and the nutrients, and the water are all A-ok, and that's about all you need to do. She'll take care of the rest.