Will Fox Farm Grow Big KILL mycos?

totally..... I would save alot of money if I did that, I was always just scared of whats left in the soil (after they cycle) and how it might neg effect the plants. And usually there is a hard ass root ball, do you just keep it in there or take it out? I could ask you like a thousand questions about recycling soil lol... but ya I'm getting so sick of disposing of that shit where its almost a dread to havest (no not really hehe)..
 
So here is what I have noticed so far using the mycos, Plant growth seems to be waaaaay faster, fan leaves tripled in size in less then 10 days, usually for the first 2 weeks after transplanting stems would be the typical reddish color NOPE green and pretty as can be.. So far i'm impressed but the true test is flowering so ill keep this thread updated for anyone that cares. O and I used foxfarm kangaroots root drench too, gonna cut that out because I don't wanna overdue it
 
Root Source said:
The FF guy was correct. According to a study by Curtis E. Swift of Colorado State University - "The benefits of mychorrizae are greatest when the soil phosphorus levels are at or below 50ppm (50 mg-kg -1). Mycorrhizal infection of roots declines above this level with little if any infection occurring above 100 ppm P even when soil is inoculated with a mycorrhizae mix". "The level of phosphorus in the plant has also been shown to influence the establishment of VA mycorrhizae with high levels inhibiting colonization by mycorrhizae (Menge,et al. 1978)".
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Thats why UB started a thread years back on the abuse of phosphorus. Our container mixes(soiless)leach P very slowly. Now mineralized(outdoor, earth)weeps it like a baby. You can spray, flush and stab in the dark all you want. or you can choose to listen...
 
Any product that has EDTA or chelated minerals will kill mycorrhizae fungi look on the bottle before you buy. Worm-like creatures can't survive in salt
They will not thrive or reproduce in soils with P levels over 10.
You are really blowing money using mycos with chelated nutes because the mycos feed the roots which feeds the plant, chelated nutes bypass the root system and feeds the plant directly, because plants use less food than we think the nutes that don't get used by the plant turn into salts, that's why you have to flush your soil every once in a while when using those kind of nutes.
Using liquid nutes with high P numbers makes them go dormant.
To answer your question Grow BIG will kill your your mycos it seems like it's not because the plants are growing but it's not growing from them it's growing from the chelated nutes instead.
Don't believe it don't flush your plants and watch how much salt builds up in, on, and around your pots.
 
I don't flush too often when using grow big and never really have alot of salt build ups. But then again I make sure I always have good run off.
 
I put the compost in a painter's bag or a nylon stocking...less mess. Along with Botanicare grow/or bloom granules, a balanced N-P-K food, and warm to 70 degrees. During the bloom I add bat guano and I learned recently slow-cooking in a crockpot for several hours increases the plants ability to uptake the nutrients in the bat poop.
 
Ok this is for the guy that said it WILL kill mykos, FF has come out with a product called Kangaroots (it's a root drench) and is supposed to be used in conjunction with Grow big, I was looking at the ingredients and it has mykos in it also. So why would FF make a product that wouldn't work with another product that is supposed to be used with it. P.S. I have had the same strain for a while now and am quite familiar with its growth patterns and habits, and I CAN see a difference when using they mycos with growbig. I have also been using growbig for almost 10 years also so nothing is new except the mycos
 
I keep reading that people just let their water sit for 24 hours... To remove chlorine. I was under the impression that almost all tap water uses Chloramine now (chlorine and ammonia). I know my city does. Chloramine won't evaporate and can't be removed by RO. I'm using Plant Success mycos but not seeing any benefit from it because it dies the second I water. Any ideas how get around this problem without buying a $2000 industrial water filter
 
JustAnotherHead said:
I keep reading that people just let their water sit for 24 hours... To remove chlorine. I was under the impression that almost all tap water uses Chloramine now (chlorine and ammonia). I know my city does. Chloramine won't evaporate and can't be removed by RO. I'm using Plant Success mycos but not seeing any benefit from it because it dies the second I water. Any ideas how get around this problem without buying a $2000 industrial water filter
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Go to the pet store and get the stuff used to remove chloramine from the water for aquariums.....perfectly safe for plants too.....
 
ok so maybe it doesn't, so does that mean I killed them and their not working or at least not working to full potential? Should I be using bottled water or something along those lines?
 
max316420 said:
Ok this is for the guy that said it WILL kill mykos, FF has come out with a product called Kangaroots (it's a root drench) and is supposed to be used in conjunction with Grow big, I was looking at the ingredients and it has mykos in it also. So why would FF make a product that wouldn't work with another product that is supposed to be used with it. P.S. I have had the same strain for a while now and am quite familiar with its growth patterns and habits, and I CAN see a difference when using they mycos with growbig. I have also been using growbig for almost 10 years also so nothing is new except the mycos
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If Grow Big was so good and didn't harm the mycos, why did they come out with the Kangaroots product? You shouldn't have to keep inoculating soil with mycos, one and done { unless you are killing them and need to keep adding more to compensate}. I use Extreme Gardenings Mykos granular at transplants and that's it! These companies are not going to tell you their product doesn't work or it kills mycos that would fuck up sales, so like every other company they come out with a remedy product to make more $$$$ and fix the problems secretly. Better believe it!!
 
actually that is what i'm using is the extreme gardening. what i'm wondering is if my water is gonna kill it? I fed with grow big because mycos doesn't have much of a nutrient value. I'm trying out Kangaroots, mycos madness and extreme gardening mycos added to soil when transplanted. They mycos was only used 1 time on each plant and never in conjunction with each other only growbig
 
Transplanted clones- Extreme gardening mycos added to promix at base of clones and watered with RO water, Mycos madness added via .50 teaspoons per gallon of water and soil drenched, Kangaroots at a rate of 2 teaspoons per gallon. All RO water was used with first water or application. Then tap water to water them after that
 
Most recently I have tried the mycos madness added to water used in Fox Farm ocean forest with no food added first watering, only the mycos
 
JustAnotherHead said:
I keep reading that people just let their water sit for 24 hours... To remove chlorine. I was under the impression that almost all tap water uses Chloramine now (chlorine and ammonia). I know my city does. Chloramine won't evaporate and can't be removed by RO. I'm using Plant Success mycos but not seeing any benefit from it because it dies the second I water. Any ideas how get around this problem without buying a $2000 industrial water filter
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Using Aquarium products does cause a salt buildup ....so using it for chloramine may help, but you may get locked out in the process. How do you know that the water is killing the myco are you seeing it happen first hand??? I use Plant Success also and i think it's a fantastic product. It works best when used in transplant applied directly to the rootball. I use it with my FF Grow Big and city tap and have no problems.... other than the fact that i have to transplant more often than not because i go heavy with the Plant Success.
How are you applying it?
 
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