World Of Hempy
- Thread starter Moebius
- Start date
drdank50
Well-Known Member
Looks like the Qrazy train I'm vegging out has 2 trifoliates. High times says these mutants tend to be lower on the yielding scale. We'll see after I get them going in 2 liters 
. My 600 watt is hooked up and just waiting on my bulb. The girls are coming down this weekend and then it's time to veg round 2!!!!
. My 600 watt is hooked up and just waiting on my bulb. The girls are coming down this weekend and then it's time to veg round 2!!!!
casper123
Member
hey guys, first off thanks for providing this forum! I have had hempy buckets for 2 years and have slowly improved from crop to crop but still have problems with nute burn. I use sensi a and b throughout veg and flower and the only additives I use are Nirvana (just bought some big bud and overdrive but don't have results yet) I ALWAYS get burnt tips and very slight deficiencies. I never thought I might be overfeeding because when I checked ppm I was never hitting 1000, even during heavy flowering. I stayed around 15ml of Sensi A and 15ml of Sensi B which would give me around 600 ppm or so. Then a little of Nirvana or occasionally some Cal/mag. After reading tons of info online i think I might still be overfeeding because of the hempy system. I may be completely wrong but Advanced Nutrients recommends a certain dosage but it's not for each feeding, it's for a week. So if a hempy bucket is getting a full dose every day, every other day, or even every third day, they are getting 6 or 4 or 2 times as much as Advanced recommends, right? So if i'm making a new batch every day or every other day should my ppm really be around 200? About 5ml of Sensi A and 5 ml of Sensi B , and then a tiny bit of whatever supplemental nutrients? I never bother to do feed feed water, but as of right now I am incorporating that into my feeding schedule. Ph is usually pretty close to 5.8 cause i guess advanced sensi, even the old stuff, manages to get an ideal ph. I use r/0 water, My temps are decent, high 70 daytime and about 60 at night Has anyone had similar problems? Tips ? Thanks in advance,Evo8Emperor
Well-Known Member
Honestly lol if all your worried about is those tiny tips that's nothing. It's what I shoot for in veg so I know the plant is getting enough and then just back the ppm a tad and you should be at an ideal ppm.
casper123
Member
For sure Evo, thanks. On a side note, how important do you think it is to try and follow a feeding schedule and actually use the tds meter. I bought a com-100 meter that has way too many settings so I'm not sure how to read it, nacl, kci, 441 etc.. suggestions on which one to use and does the .5 or .7 apply to those or just when you're doing EC? So is there a significant difference in following a feeding schedule compared to eyeballing your plants needs and adding or subtracting a few ml every time you feed. Hope I'm not repeating questions from older posts, haven't got through all of em.
Evo8Emperor
Well-Known Member
Well most of use the ec in .5 to get ppm. so .2ec is 100ppm .5ec is 250ppm and so on and so forth.
As for following a feeding schedule your asking me rather is it better to eye ball it rather than say use on a level when hanging picture or w/e you want to associate it with.
If you know exactly what your giving your plant each week then it won't change and if there's something wrong you'll know exactly how much to subract rather than guessing. While you can remember what you did and go about it that way eyeballing it sure. Everyone's different really. There weren't meter's for ever but with hydro and mixing nutes from a concentrate and so many of them being different strengths i'd say its better knowing what your mixing and how strong things are before and after.
As for following a feeding schedule your asking me rather is it better to eye ball it rather than say use on a level when hanging picture or w/e you want to associate it with.
If you know exactly what your giving your plant each week then it won't change and if there's something wrong you'll know exactly how much to subract rather than guessing. While you can remember what you did and go about it that way eyeballing it sure. Everyone's different really. There weren't meter's for ever but with hydro and mixing nutes from a concentrate and so many of them being different strengths i'd say its better knowing what your mixing and how strong things are before and after.
WattSaver
Well-Known Member
I do use a few additives. I always add Floralicious Plus from seedling to the end of flower, but only 8 to 10 drops per gal. Cal/Mag in perlite 1 ml/gal (my water just needs it) in coco 5 ml/gal. In veg I do add a few drop/gal of Superthrive. But that's it. I have added several different boosters after 4wks, and depending upon the strain it helps a bunch or it over hammers it. And if you leave it alone it works just fine.
Moebius
Well-Known Member
Since building, my Aero-cloner it periodically leaked, I had built an internal shower curtain made from white plastic-sheeting and glued with hot-glue. However the glue would come undone every few weeks, usually leading to a puddle.
I was on the verge of giving-up on my Aero ... but it clones very well and I won't be defeated by a plastic box.
This is my 2.0 version with redesigned curtain. Its Smaller. Lighter. and faster. .... (I made that last bit up)
Basically, I bought a extra-long/wide 'draft excluder' or 'seal', used for a garage door. I cut it up and connected it to the lid using 'L' brackets and bolts/nuts.
I was on the verge of giving-up on my Aero ... but it clones very well and I won't be defeated by a plastic box.
This is my 2.0 version with redesigned curtain. Its Smaller. Lighter. and faster. .... (I made that last bit up)
Basically, I bought a extra-long/wide 'draft excluder' or 'seal', used for a garage door. I cut it up and connected it to the lid using 'L' brackets and bolts/nuts.
jela10
Well-Known Member
casper I totally agree with Evo....you are right there on the edge hempy brother. Those tiny tip burns are almost inevitable when pushing the limits, which is where some nute charts can put you (Fox Farms is a good example). But every strain is different and the plants needs more/less at different times. I had those little brown tips every grow untill the last 2...I started introduced PK13/14 during week 4 or 5 as a bud fattener and heard it was kind'a hot so I backed down on my base nutes during those weeks (like 10mm/gal instead of 13). I quickly returned to normal scheduled amounts after the 7-10day treatment and wow, no tip burn. Can't say for sure...so many factors.
I do wonder about your watering every day as your buckets look to be at least 2gal's in size. Is your hole up 2" from the bottom? (pardon the bucket talk)
jela10
Well-Known Member
Moebius, from past experience with hot glue, I'm almost positive it was the root cause of your mishap. As a watercraft owner, let me point out a very fine adhesive for wet environments..."Marine Goop". If you can't get any in Europe, let me know and I'll mail you a tube.Im in beta testing now but its looking promising ... NO LEAKS.
Moebius
Well-Known Member
Hi Casper, nice set-up man. I'm liking the LED/HID combo.
.... that's a rather un-orthodox placement of your CF if you don't mind me saying.. ... is there a reason why its not up high and sucking in the 'hot' air? ... It helps with the air circulation within the tent (convection). ..... Better circulation will minimise any localised 'hot spots'. .... if there are 'hot spots' within your tent, it will be the extremities of a leaf that heat burns first.
just a thought.
Edit:
From the look of the picture, your CF if right at the front of the tent, just by the door. ... It really needs to be up high and on the far side, so it pulls air in, through the plants.
Moebius
Well-Known Member
cheers Jela, much appreciate the offer. I'm sure Fleabay or Amacon will have it. Thanks for the recommendation.
(I actually love those sites) lol
edit:
Just got some on the bay. Its cheap.
Shivaskunk
Well-Known Member
I keep my CF on the ground sometimes when my room gets too cold but moebius is totally right about it needing to be in the back for the best air exchange and normally hanging it up high gives the best results.
jela10
Well-Known Member
Just got through with 3 consecutive PK13/14 additions (9days) and bammmm...it's happening again. What a remarkable change in bud diameter day by day and frost is proliferating rapidly. Smell is simply too good to be true. It's only 35days of flowering with easily another 21 days at minimum....the mapito medium is proving to be another nice arrow in my hempy quiver". Nothing needs staking or tying this time around..everything stands on it's own so far. Weirdest thing about mapito so far...the 2g buckets get really light on day 3 with no leaf drooping ..if you push one of these tops back to inspect the inner jungle, the bucket rocks back too.
Moebius
Well-Known Member
Its without a shadow of doubt that pk13/14 is an effective bloom enhancer. ... Its really provides the shot in the arm for the plants when they need the extra phosphorous and potassium when the plant needs it.
I'm a little skeptical of some of the others 'potions' but this ones does what it says. I'll be using it on my next run.
Bobby2times
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, just cracked some seeds in some coco pellets(Royal Seed CO critical and a sleestack x skunk freebie). I'm going to run a perlite/verm. mix for my first hempy but have a question about Ph. I've become a pretty stable soil grower, no real deficiencies etc. nice results but have never really used a ph/ ppm meter. I use the PH drops to eyeball the Ph because obviously soil is a little more forgiving in that area. But back to the original question, Is a ppm meter critical? If so is there any meter you would recommend? Enjoy lurking you guys grows in here, motivated me to try hempy. Oh yeah, anyone had any experience with these strains? just had these lying around waiting to be used.
Bobby2times
Well-Known Member
Pretty much going to run lucas formula I think.Although I have heard Lucas is weird in hempy
i'm In 2.5 gal. buckets.
i'm In 2.5 gal. buckets.