World Of Hempy

DimebagDave

Well-Known Member
Holy shit!!! It took me 4 days but I made it through all 183 pages!!! Alot of hempy goodness going on here. I started out DWC but moved to hempy on my last run. Was using 100%per before but have switched over to about 50/50 coco/per. All is looking good so far.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
27 days on the Pineapple Express....trimmed 50% of the fan leaves just to get this much light to the newly forming colas....as far as the mapito...no complaints at all. Nothing too superior over coco except my watering frequency is still every 3 days where it would normally be 2.5days by now. Rockwool definately holds more water. PK13 is taking a nice effect as I caught it just at the right moment. 1 or 2 more feedings and I'll stop the addition, step up the base nutes for a week and then start working it down for the last 3 weeks. Per Moe's suggestion I'm working down the lumens setting on the Lumatek ballast from 400W super lumens to 400w-only then maybe even 250W during the last week. This 2 bucket grow is rock-in in typical hempy fashion.

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Jela, your plants look really REALLY nice dude. I can't remember fully the conversation about reducing lumens at the end of grow. Thinking back, it feels to me I was making a 'throwaway' remark to spark discussion or debate rather than any real suggestion.

Are you sure you want to try this? I wouldn't want to be responsible in any way for you getting a reduced yield or quality. And a drop to 250W may be too extreme.

I think the 'theory' was surrounding these ideas -


  • Light destroys THC and seems to effect resin. Does reducing light in the final week increase resin production?
  • The plant needs large amounts of energy during it's vegetative phase of growth (growing root, leaf and stem) and for the growing large bud in the 'bloom' phase. Does it need the same amount of energy after these have grown in the final week ?
  • Outdoor Cannabis will generally finish around the 'fall' or 'Autumn' period of the year. Ambient light levels have reduced from the summer months. Should we look at replicating this in anyway?

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Now my opinion - (and im talking with respect to 2L's)

My instinctual feeling is that NO it's probably not best to reduce to 250W. 400W seems needed, you still need to fatten up the calyxes and reach the lower bud. .... One idea might be to just spread the 400W of lumens over the plant by reducing the overhead to 250W and using CFL''s to make up the 150W, hitting the plants at different angles. ... Since in autumn the sun is at a lower angle in the sky this idea may have 'some' significance. but its probably more hassle than its worth and personally I would stick with the overhead 400.

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I'm just trying to learn here too, I feel very nervous about others on W.O.H putting my brain farts into practice. :eek:
 

ineverveg

Active Member
i have always reduced flower time down to 10 hours gradually over the last 10 days or so making them think winter is coming in fast(i cant now ,im perpetual).
Imho opinion reducing the energy you give the plants would hurt yield as it would in nature when its cloudy. however tricking them into early winter is just what indoor growing is all about, control!
logically speaking,11 hours of good light has to be more beneficial than 12 hours of weaker light!

my personal view is that indoor growers can replicate nature better than nature can, no rain! no strong wind! and for me no "autumn" days.

leaving your girls in 24/48 hours of darknesss would increase thc levels, as would cutting them down in the morning when thc levels are higher, i have been doing this with no major difference(that i can see!)

if anyone has had good results with this i would love to hear about it (link me up), this would help me a great deal with my perp, i did investigate a little a while ago but i never saw any conclusive results
 

ineverveg

Active Member
27 days on the Pineapple Express....

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beautiful plants there jela....how long did you veg those for. i have only tried a few singles on the pineapple but i found they really didn't do much in veg compared to other strains i was growing, i just took one out of flower to re-veg as it was tiny and i mixed up my cuttings(looking for a good mom), its taking its sweet time re-vegging as well, maybe i got a bad batch of seeds ?, whats your thoughts on the PE jela?
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Need to change your unit settings from engineering to architectural so we can see those fractions...........................................
Sorry bout that Wattsaver...I work in millimeters all day and decimals are my default. How is a resolution of 1/64th? BTW anyone wanting a quick and dirty layout of a grow area or a 3D model of such, just let me know.

snap00233.jpg
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
beautiful plants there jela....how long did you veg those for. i have only tried a few singles on the pineapple but i found they really didn't do much in veg compared to other strains i was growing, i just took one out of flower to re-veg as it was tiny and i mixed up my cuttings(looking for a good mom), its taking its sweet time re-vegging as well, maybe i got a bad batch of seeds ?, whats your thoughts on the PE jela?
These were vegged exactly 30 days. Had I not FIM'ed once I would have vegged for only 3 weeks.
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Jela, your plants look really REALLY nice dude. I can't remember fully the conversation about reducing lumens at the end of grow. Thinking back, it feels to me I was making a 'throwaway' remark to spark discussion or debate rather than any real suggestion.

Are you sure you want to try this? I wouldn't want to be responsible in any way for you getting a reduced yield or quality. And a drop to 250W may be too extreme. :eek:
Ok Moebius, you got me sacred now....I think the original intention was to simulate autumn and the earths constant change in pitch, making it dimmer by grow's end. But with that comes shorter light periods. If the plants start noticing the change they might start hauling ass to a more fruitful production in order to catch passing pollen. Since they use less nutrients per my nute charts, one might assume that photosynthesis is less too requiring less light. Lots of folks out there doing the 48 hours of darkness before chop to get a burst of resin going. Since Mapito is a new grow medium here with eyes & ears on it right now, I'll just stick to the standard 400W super lumen setting to keep from confounding things. And Moe, whether right or wrong, I do appreciate everyone's ability to conceive new ideas and put it down in text here on WOH.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Ok Moebius, you got me sacred now....I think the original intention was to simulate autumn and the earths constant change in pitch, making it dimmer by grow's end. But with that comes shorter light periods. If the plants start noticing the change they might start hauling ass to a more fruitful production in order to catch passing pollen. Since they use less nutrients per my nute charts, one might assume that photosynthesis is less too requiring less light. Lots of folks out there doing the 48 hours of darkness before chop to get a burst of resin going. Since Mapito is a new grow medium here with eyes & ears on it right now, I'll just stick to the standard 400W super lumen setting to keep from confounding things. And Moe, whether right or wrong, I do appreciate everyone's ability to conceive new ideas and put it down in text here on WOH.
Cheers Jela, I just felt I needed to add that caveat before others are like wtf is that moebius saying.

It makes perfect sense though doesnt it? ........... The plant DEFINITELY (probably) needs less nutes in the final week. So, we are right (I think) to question if the same light levels are needed. There MUST be a relation between nutrient uptake and light levels, however we can't say beyond doubt what the optimum light levels may be for your plants.

I have a fortnight to go or so on my GDP. About a week to ago I switched my Lumatek to 400W from 600W. ... I think my plants are better for it. but I'm at a lower height than you so I may have been stressing my plants anyhow. I personally wouldn't use less light without replacing it with secondary side lighting or similar.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
Well I made the plunge and ordered the lumatek 400/600 super lumens. While I have enjoyed the 400/250, I just want something to give me the height distance provided some of these strains are a little stretchier than others. WOH has taught me a lot!
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Dank, please keep us informed on that beautiful Plushberry...you have me counting the days myself. If your smoke report comes through as positive, that will be the next seeds I order for my collection.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
Dank, please keep us informed on that beautiful Plushberry...you have me counting the days myself. If your smoke report comes through as positive, that will be the next seeds I order for my collection.
Jela10, yeah she's truly a beauty! There are 2 different phenos to plushberry that are both awesome. The more space queen dom has a higher yield and tastes very much like berries. This is the black cherry soda pheno which has amazing massive tops. I would say it would be best using your methods too Jela10. Many tops and they'll swell like golf balls. Some have said that it tends to hermie late in flower, but I'm going on day 53 and so far so good. It's suppose to taste like Dr Pepper with the fizz and everything. :)
 

supchaka

Well-Known Member
This things growing like I topped it.

I never got to a full strength veg nute, and after this next gallon I'll need to run the transition batch anyways. Little bit of other plants overlapping her.



They're all in 12/12 now. The veg LED is actually OFF! I have nothing in the corner... I need to let these things run out a bit before I get cracking anymore seeds.
 

Shaggn

Well-Known Member
I'm having somewhat of an issue. I just grabbed a cool mist humidifier because I can't keep my humidity up (always reads as low - below 20%). Even with this humidifier in the tent (4x4) on high, with only 4 t5s and i'm only able to reach 22%. Temps sit around 76-81. Didn't have any problems till the fall rolled in. Plants are doing fine so I don't think it is of to much concern. Thoughts and ideas on ways to battle this or if I should even worry about it. Would I be better off with a warm mist? Thx
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Very compact solid buddy, more blueish than purple atm. More crystals than GDP1. Shorter pheno with lower yield than GDP1. Looks ripe and almost done at 5 weeks. Quicker than GDP1.

I did read a comment from a grower on Kens website who said his plant was ready at 6 weeks, I thought 'What BS!' '6 weeks? LOL' ... Well I'll still give mine 7-8 weeks but I could chop earlier.

 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
I'm having somewhat of an issue. I just grabbed a cool mist humidifier because I can't keep my humidity up (always reads as low - below 20%). Even with this humidifier in the tent (4x4) on high, with only 4 t5s and i'm only able to reach 22%. Temps sit around 76-81. Didn't have any problems till the fall rolled in. Plants are doing fine so I don't think it is of to much concern. Thoughts and ideas on ways to battle this or if I should even worry about it. Would I be better off with a warm mist? Thx
The only time I grew in a tent, I left the extraction fan off and came back and my plants had sweated to mush with the walls dripping wet. Obviously, you don't want that but by extracting less air, humidity tends to rise.

I would just try and read the plants rather than the hygrometer. If they look OK then no worries. ..... Also, high humidity has so many associated problems is unreal.

btw ... you sure your Hygrometer is'nt broken?
 

Shaggn

Well-Known Member
Have two different hydrometers with the same readings. Pretty sure, some of my clones are even dying (leaves curling up all crispy n dry). Which i've never had that problem, usually around 90%+ success on my clones. Whether in RW or riot rooters or my own cubes made with promix. This is only temporary as the 2x4 tent will be getting set-up shortly with all the gear that is in the 4x4. Extraction fan is only a small 4" muffin fan. I didn't know this till I read up on Low RH and issues associated with it, but now realize the minor issue with all my plants health is a slight K def (due to low RH). Other than these issues everything is healthy and green and growing as normal. My last set-up (partnered with a friend) was in a basement and the rh was brutal, to the point that eventually we had a pm issue. Now i'm on the other side of the fence lol.

Any advice or ideas from personal experience is always welcome. That is what I love most of being a part of this thread. Everyone here has their greenthumb in check :). It took abit for the humidity to start to rise but has currently crept up to 30%. So I see no problem being able to get the 2x4 tent to the proper level for veg. Anyways, not a noob, just first time growing in a tent and wasn't sure what to expect. Always built my rooms custom but need to be able to pull the gear down incase of 24hrs notice of entry!! For the muffin fan, I'm thinking of getting a controller to dial it down some for the smaller tent. If it doesn't work then I will be looking at getting a smaller fan, if there is such a thing lol. Next size down, only thing that comes to mind is a 80mm or 120mm computer case fan. Peace!!
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Have two different hydrometers with the same readings. Pretty sure, some of my clones are even dying (leaves curling up all crispy n dry). Which i've never had that problem, usually around 90%+ success on my clones. Whether in RW or riot rooters or my own cubes made with promix. This is only temporary as the 2x4 tent will be getting set-up shortly with all the gear that is in the 4x4. Extraction fan is only a small 4" muffin fan. I didn't know this till I read up on Low RH and issues associated with it, but now realize the minor issue with all my plants health is a slight K def (due to low RH). Other than these issues everything is healthy and green and growing as normal. My last set-up (partnered with a friend) was in a basement and the rh was brutal, to the point that eventually we had a pm issue. Now i'm on the other side of the fence lol.

Any advice or ideas from personal experience is always welcome. That is what I love most of being a part of this thread. Everyone here has their greenthumb in check :). It took abit for the humidity to start to rise but has currently crept up to 30%. So I see no problem being able to get the 2x4 tent to the proper level for veg. Anyways, not a noob, just first time growing in a tent and wasn't sure what to expect. Always built my rooms custom but need to be able to pull the gear down incase of 24hrs notice of entry!! For the muffin fan, I'm thinking of getting a controller to dial it down some for the smaller tent. If it doesn't work then I will be looking at getting a smaller fan, if there is such a thing lol. Next size down, only thing that comes to mind is a 80mm or 120mm computer case fan. Peace!!
I live in the hottest and driest state in the US and low humidity has never been a concern unless doing clones where I mist a lot to keep it up. In fact I believe the high-humidity thing in veg is very over-rated. In a tent it's hard not to get under 30% just because of the moisture rich buckets themselves transpiring. When to worry is when humidity is high during flower...work your exhaust more frequently and with more CFM's when the girls are sleeping...they will sweat just as Moebius stated earlier and bud rot is a heart breaker.
 

Shaggn

Well-Known Member
Is high humidity a problem with hempy grows? Whether it be veg or bloom? If so I may have to go get a de-humidifier instead lmao. Atm i'm not to concerned as I will have a 4x4 with a powerful 6" extractor and the 600 is in a cooltube (be upgrading to a 6" blockbuster, soon as I can afford it). Fresh air is constant. Be the reason i was having problems with my clones. Winter here is always super dry. Plus the electric baseboard heating that I have no control over. My fans run 24/7. Will find out soon if I will have issues the other way lol.
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Have two different hydrometers with the same readings. Pretty sure, some of my clones are even dying (leaves curling up all crispy n dry). Which i've never had that problem, usually around 90%+ success on my clones. Whether in RW or riot rooters or my own cubes made with promix. This is only temporary as the 2x4 tent will be getting set-up shortly with all the gear that is in the 4x4. Extraction fan is only a small 4" muffin fan. I didn't know this till I read up on Low RH and issues associated with it, but now realize the minor issue with all my plants health is a slight K def (due to low RH). Other than these issues everything is healthy and green and growing as normal. My last set-up (partnered with a friend) was in a basement and the rh was brutal, to the point that eventually we had a pm issue. Now i'm on the other side of the fence lol.

Any advice or ideas from personal experience is always welcome. That is what I love most of being a part of this thread. Everyone here has their greenthumb in check :). It took abit for the humidity to start to rise but has currently crept up to 30%. So I see no problem being able to get the 2x4 tent to the proper level for veg. Anyways, not a noob, just first time growing in a tent and wasn't sure what to expect. Always built my rooms custom but need to be able to pull the gear down incase of 24hrs notice of entry!! For the muffin fan, I'm thinking of getting a controller to dial it down some for the smaller tent. If it doesn't work then I will be looking at getting a smaller fan, if there is such a thing lol. Next size down, only thing that comes to mind is a 80mm or 120mm computer case fan. Peace!!
I also live in a very arid place, and feel blessed to not have to worry about PM, worms, rot, or other hi humidity problems. 16 to 24% is my norm. I do watch the girls and if they look real parched I will spray em down with RO right after lights go out. It will raise the area humidity and the girls seem to enjoy, but I don't do this on a regular basis, only when they look really parched.
 
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