BigLittlejohn
Well-Known Member
Watt I've read that it's best to turn off your fans that are removing air from the room while leaving the fans on that push air around for the strips to be effective.
if u can get it pretty air tight and contain the treated area, then blast it out with fresh air after a few days you should be legit. I also sealed my strip up airtight after and tucked it away. It carries an unknown amount of risk which sucks but as a fast op done right it should be fineI went ahead and ordered an no pest strip. I noticed they were still alive when I checked a few minutes ago, upped the concentration level and sprayed them down again. When I put the microscope on them again they weren't moving, but I am not going to fuck around.
I am a little concerned with the fact my grow room is inside my house, but I can make sure the room is secure while I am blasting these fucks.
ya I think I owe a lot of luck to only running fans 12/12. pre-treatment will definitely keep them at bay, and I love your idea of a sacrificial plant lmao! but id still be worried that those little fuckers would spread to the mj, they're like an invasive virus!I haven't had luck with the no pest strip, I'm sure it has to do with my ventilation, in the summer, I'm moving around 400cfm 24/7 thru the rm.
The best products I've found are available at garden centers, they are Neem based (70%) with pyethins & butoxide. They are concentrates generally 1oz/gal. 3 sprayings 5/6 days apart will generally stop most infestations. But I don't like to use neem after 21 days 12/12. If used weekly from seedling to wk2 12/12 it will most times keep the little SOB's away.
Something I've always wanted to try is the use of a sacrificial anode. Grow another plant in the room that is a preferred food for the SM
I've never had a SM problem with any outdoors grows, which makes me think that pot isn't a preferred food when many other plants are available. Outdoors I've found the little bastards on tomatoes, and they seem to really like lilacs. I need to study this some more.
Your product reminds me of Fertilome Triple Action Plus that was recommendedI haven't had luck with the no pest strip, I'm sure it has to do with my ventilation, in the summer, I'm moving around 400cfm 24/7 thru the rm.
The best products I've found are available at garden centers, they are Neem based (70%) with pyethins & butoxide. They are concentrates generally 1oz/gal. 3 sprayings 5/6 days apart will generally stop most infestations. But I don't like to use neem after 21 days 12/12. If used weekly from seedling to wk2 12/12 it will most times keep the little SOB's away.
Something I've always wanted to try is the use of a sacrificial anode. Grow another plant in the room that is a preferred food for the SM
I've never had a SM problem with any outdoors grows, which makes me think that pot isn't a preferred food when many other plants are available. Outdoors I've found the little bastards on tomatoes, and they seem to really like lilacs. I need to study this some more.
I do understand what you're saying and agree completely, but I can't turn my fans off and keep temps in check, If I turned off the fans in the summer for a couple of days the temps would kill what the mites didn't.Watt I've read that it's best to turn off your fans that are removing air from the room while leaving the fans on that push air around for the strips to be effective.
My theory on the sacrificial plant would be to check it regularly, and at the first sign pull it out and put in a new spider mite martyr. Don't know if it would work, but I'm going to do a little study.ya I think I owe a lot of luck to only running fans 12/12. pre-treatment will definitely keep them at bay, and I love your idea of a sacrificial plant lmao! but id still be worried that those little fuckers would spread to the mj, they're like an invasive virus!
I don't think you can say there is a perfect hempy ph #. It really is a flexible growing system. And I've seen folks use a # that I think is too acidic, and have a great grow, so I won't argue the perfect ph. 5.5 - 6.5 watch your plants and adjust slightly if needed.I've read a majority of the hempy thread and I see a lot of variance in the recommended PH on the nutrient solution ranging from 5.6-6.2 and I'm aware certain nutrients are more readily available at different ph's but I would like to know what the general suggestion is for hempy PH. Right now I'm only about a week in with some 12" tall clones that I transplanted into 5 gallon hempy's and I just want to make sure I handle the PH properly...
One of the main reasons I'm switching to hempy is because I'm tired of the PH fluctuations with peat and soil, so I really want to do right by my girls on this hempy adventure. I'm using the good 'ol GH 3 part flora series with floralicious plus added in flower which has served me well over the last few grows.
Unfortunately the little buggers love the heat too!! Keep us posting with your sacrificial plant, biodiversity may just be the key!I do understand what you're saying and agree completely, but I can't turn my fans off and keep temps in check, If I turned off the fans in the summer for a couple of days the temps would kill what the mites didn't.
My theory on the sacrificial plant would be to check it regularly, and at the first sign pull it out and put in a new spider mite martyr. Don't know if it would work, but I'm going to do a little study.
Good luck!I went dark about an hour ago and hung the the thing after turning off my inline fan. I also trashed a berry bomb clone in veg that was the most affected.
Wish me luck!