World Of Hempy

Shivaskunk

Well-Known Member
Did some watering and moved my girls around. Cutting side is very homogenus as fas as height goes. Seed plants not so much there is a good 8 inch difference so i put my lanky gods gifts and my blue dream maui crosses in back and sorted them by height. Getting excited for this run now that (knock on wood) things are going healthy. Fed the girls 1400 ppm of GH flora bloom, micro, and a dash of grow for the stretch. This is about 450 ppm higher than my last feeding but they are in full on mode and i think they can take it. Yo may notice some tiny sickly looking girls in front to the left...i have a soft spot for the runts and hell i have the room to grow a few for hash plants. securedownload-363.jpg
 

Shivaskunk

Well-Known Member
oh and feeding girls in perlite with soil core ph of about 6.3 as per Watts suggestion. going 6.6 on the soil girls with perlite hempy res.
 

tsboss1

Well-Known Member
Ok I got all the questions now, after doing some research, I have to know. All you guys using OC+, is this your first grow with it? Have you encountered any problems with it? And if you have used, did it help produce a larger yeild? Oh, and at what rate are you using it at?
I have been using oc+ for over a year in straight perlite but before I was using like a handful sprinkle per gallon of oc+ which did not produce a large yield, but I finally upped my dose to 2tbsp per gallon and my plants are as big as they ever been with tons of bud sites..I will know for sure next month if I improved or not but I am 100% sure I will be getting my biggest harvest to date.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
(FROM ADVANCED NUTRIENTS)

Three major factors tend to disrupt the stability of the pH in any hydroponic system. Learning to control these influences is essential for a successful harvest.

pH imperfection #1: the pH of the water used to dilute nutrients

Freshly distilled or deionized water has a pH of 7. However, the pH of the water may fall to as low as 5.5 within hours of preparation. This is because water absorbs carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air.
The behavior of tap water is even more complex. It contains dissolved and slightly alkaline calcium and/or magnesium salts. In this case, absorption of CO2 from the air makes predicting the pH even more challenging.
Because the calcium and magnesium salts in most tap waters, not to mention even more chemically complex well and spring waters, create such serious problems, many hydroponic growers, from hobbyists to huge commercial greenhouses, prefer using treated water. Although a number of water treatment systems exist, reverse-osmosis (RO) is considered the most economical. Water obtained from an RO system is almost as good as expensive distilled water.
Another option is to adjust the pH of tap water before using it. This can be done with so-called pH up or pH down additives. However, this task is demanding and often done incorrectly-and what's worse, the acidic and alkaline chemicals used in these products, and the resulting sudden fluctuations in pH when they are added to the reservoir, can be hard on your plants.

pH imperfection #2: biochemical processes in the nutrient solution

Many pH changes are caused by the nutrients themselves.

The more compounds in the water-measured in parts per million (ppm) or by the nutrient solution's electroconductivity (EC)-the greater their influence on pH.
For example, the urea used in many fertilizers is broken down by enzymes into one molecule of CO2 (a slightly acidic compound) and two molecules of ammonia (a slightly alkaline compound). This can cause erratic changes in pH.
In addition to urea, any compound containing an amide chemical bond (e.g., the proteinates used in many fertilizers) can, when broken down, affect the pH in unpredictable ways.
Nutrient absorption also leads to changes in pH. When a plant absorbs a lot of potassium ions, it gives out hydrogen ions in return. The result is a net decrease in pH. The situation reverses when the plant absorbs a lot of nitrate ions and gives out hydroxyl ions to compensate, thus increasing the pH (Bar-Yosef, Ganmore-Neumann, Imas, and Kafkafi, 1997; Ryan, P.R. and Delhaize, E., 2001). The higher the rate of nutrient absorption, the more dramatic the change in pH.

pH imperfection #3: the substrate through which the nutrient solution flows

The growing medium (also called the substrate) affects pH as well. For example, coco-based growing media undergo subtle changes during your crop's life cycle that affect the pH of the nutrient solution. Even baked clay pellets, which are far more stable than coco coir in terms of pH, are less than rock solid in this regard.
In fact, every chemical or biochemical process that goes on in the growing vessel changes the pH of the nutrient solution. Each additional factor drives it further from the sweet spot.
In nature, the volume of surrounding soil-teeming with microbes, humates, and other pH stabilizing agents-does a good job of offsetting pH changes. Natural soils thus act as natural pH buffers. That's why, in outdoor gardens, where the soil itself contributes to a more stable pH, changes in pH are more gradual than in a hydroponic gardens.[SUP]1[/SUP]
In hydroponics, however, pH stability is a challenge. It is an intense gardening method where the concentration of nutrients and their absorption rate by plants are much higher than in soil. As a result, chemical and biochemical processes influence the pH to a much higher degree than in natural soils or traditional agriculture. The natural stabilizers and buffers in the nutrient solution, mainly phosphates, are weak, so indoor gardeners have to check the pH of the nutrient solution regularly and adjust it when it goes below or above the sweet spot. What a hassle.

Stabilizers and buffers: the secret to pH balance

As already mentioned, in biochemistry, including agrochemistry, the pH of the nutrient solution and growing medium is balanced and maintained by stabilizing and buffering agents. But which stabilizers and buffers, and how much, are needed? Unfortunately, there is no easy answer.

Every pH stabilizer and buffer has its own optimal pH range where it works best. For example, phosphate stabilizes the pH in the area of 7.2. Other ions with buffering properties which are present in conventional nutrient systems are even less effective at stabilizing the pH near the sweet spot.
So, growers need guardrails of sorts along the nutrient highway to ensure that after the initial reaction that adjusts the pH within the sweet spot, it stays locked within that range. In this way, the pH will not be allowed to drift too far one way or the other along the pH scale. This serves as a kind of failsafe mechanism, providing you with further peace of mind while safeguarding your valuable crops.
The task assigned to the scientists at Advanced Nutrients was to research every available option for stabilizing and buffering the pH of the nutrient solution and growing medium. They were asked to develop a pH stabilizer and buffer that worked well in maintaining the pH within the sweet spot without an excessive amount of acids or alkalis.
One problem they encountered was the fact that every pH stabilizing agent has a limited pH-balancing capacity. For example, a weak stabilizer or buffer can handle only minor deviations from the optimal range caused by a small amount of acids or alkalis. By contrast, a strong stabilizer or buffer, with a large pH-balancing capacity, can keep the pH equalized even when large amounts of acids or alkalis are present in the nutrient solution.
Unfortunately, pH stabilizers and buffers cannot be strengthened at will in hydroponics. Cultivating crops involves more than pure chemistry.
Another factor is cost. Sophisticated stabilizers and buffers having all the desired properties, including low plant toxicity, are costly. Therefore, increasing their concentration can make a fertilizer prohibitively expensive.
More serious problems arise when plant biology comes into play.
For example, the optimal pH inside a plant's tissues is higher than outside the plant-generally in the range of pH 7.2–7.5. Fortunately, plants have their own mechanisms that keep the pH within this range. But by adding only a small portion of the wrong external pH stabilizer or buffer, you can destroy your plants' internal pH-balancing system. The result is damage or even death to the plant.
Yet another problem arises when looking at your plants' microscopic root tips. These fragile tips pump hydrogen ions into their immediate vicinity to make the pH more acidic. Here the pH can drop to as low as 4. This acidic pH level exists just around the tips. However, it is crucial for overall development and growth of root mass (Nye, 1981). Adding too much pH stabilizer or buffer can destroy the ability of these tender root tips to create the desired acidic micro-environment. If that happens, overall root development will be slowed, resulting in poor yield.

http://www.advancednutrients.com/breakthrough/
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
pH imperfection#1 made me think; maybe its not such a good idea for me to leave my solution in a tank due to the absorption of CO2. (Even if it is kept spinning.) ... I may buy an air pump for my tank to increase the DO (dissolved oxygen). ... never considered its effect on pH :confused:
 

Dr.J20

Well-Known Member
I have been using oc+ for over a year in straight perlite but before I was using like a handful sprinkle per gallon of oc+ which did not produce a large yield, but I finally upped my dose to 2tbsp per gallon and my plants are as big as they ever been with tons of bud sites..I will know for sure next month if I improved or not but I am 100% sure I will be getting my biggest harvest to date.
ditto this...2Tbsp/gal...i spread out 2 tbsp an inch above the drain hole, another two at the rootzone level at transplant, and another two top-dressed/mixed in to the first 2-3inches for 3 gallon buckets
be easy :leaf:
Dr.J
 

Txchilies

Well-Known Member
pH imperfection#1 made me think; maybe its not such a good idea for me to leave my solution in a tank due to the absorption of CO2. (Even if it is kept spinning.) ... I may buy an air pump for my tank to increase the DO (dissolved oxygen). ... never considered its effect on pH :confused:
Adding air to a res tank is always advisable, DWC proves that and the extra DO only benefits the plant. I think you'll find that adding air will keep the nutes alittle fresher.
 

Dr.J20

Well-Known Member
pH imperfection#1 made me think; maybe its not such a good idea for me to leave my solution in a tank due to the absorption of CO2. (Even if it is kept spinning.) ... I may buy an air pump for my tank to increase the DO (dissolved oxygen). ... never considered its effect on pH :confused:
Nice posts Moe, very informative indeed!
be easy
 

fandango

Well-Known Member
Freebies are good but I needed 100+. I would have looked crazy, rooting through bins for them.

Im sure budget water can be found for 20 cents for a 2L bottle. When it comes to wrapping them, its a lot easier full, than empty. ... but its all up to the individual.

Water bottles mean you don't have to rinse them out too.
Good tip there!never thought of wrapping the bottle while still full?
ps...my buddy steve has bags full of 2l coke bottles for me...but the cheap bastard is making me pay recycle value for em!
 

WattSaver

Well-Known Member
Ok I got all the questions now, after doing some research, I have to know. All you guys using OC+, is this your first grow with it? Have you encountered any problems with it? And if you have used, did it help produce a larger yeild? Oh, and at what rate are you using it at?
Been using CRF's for a long time, and I don't believe that the yields are any better, I'd have to say they are about the same. The one thing you don't have to deal with is changing your nute levels over the course of the grow. I've now settled at 2tbsp's/gal of medium.
 

Dr.J20

Well-Known Member
Been using CRF's for a long time, and I don't believe that the yields are any better, I'd have to say they are about the same. The one thing you don't have to deal with is changing your nute levels over the course of the grow. I've now settled at 2tbsp's/gal of medium.
Hey watt,
With the full soil cap on 100% perlite hempy, did you find that the soil cap altered the daily watering schedule that's usual until the roots reach the res?...oc+ is looking good to me so far!
thanks mang,
be easy woh!
Dr.J
 

Txchilies

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info Wattsaver, and everyone else. Curiosity got the better of me, and had to find out what the deal is. I'm using the lucas formuls with GH and tap water with fairly decent results. But I'm willing to learn what can help me cut cost without cutting production or quality. Pretty much the whole reason for going hempy and the ease of things.

Happy Growing!!!
 

georgyboy

Active Member
Getting all the dead roots out of this thing is proving impossible. I can't see this 'Mapito' being recycled more than once, I'll throw it after the next run.
How do dead roots effect a hempy? I just gave a buddy all the perlite/verm mix from my last grow and he's using it now. I had pulled the major roots out but it is still littered with tiny feeders. O and how you doing Moeb, it feels like forever since I last used the site. Can't believe this thread has made it to over 3000 posts!
 

georgyboy

Active Member
Hey guys I'm actually trying to totally upgrade my grow, but am hung up on the ventilation. I want two tents with 400w in each. I plan to run the tents 12/12 all day. When one shuts off the other kicks on. I want to use coolable reflectors, remove the glass, and vent the tent through the light and exhaust the heat out the window. Here's two plans I drew up quickly on paint. Which do you think would work best? Any comments here are appreciated. Assume all the specs from the first drawing are the same in the second.

Dual Tent Plans.jpgView attachment 2533121
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Hey guys I'm actually trying to totally upgrade my grow, but am hung up on the ventilation. I want two tents with 400w in each. I plan to run the tents 12/12 all day. When one shuts off the other kicks on. I want to use coolable reflectors, remove the glass, and vent the tent through the light and exhaust the heat out the window. Here's two plans I drew up quickly on paint. Which do you think would work best? Any comments here are appreciated. Assume all the specs from the first drawing are the same in the second.

View attachment 2533120View attachment 2533121
My first question would be why not a separate 6" fan and filter for each tent. or. A single tent. ... my first thought is you'll be making work for yourself both building the areas and maintaining whilst in growth.

Assuming you have a reason why the above two options are not to your liking;.... tbh ... I don't like either of the setups you've designed. I just don't see how they work. 1. Why is the filter not in the tent's? 2. In the first drawing you'll lose suction by using that 'proxy' ventilation box thing. .. I could go on.

Sorry bro, personally its a thumbs down from me. .... I may be wrong. JMO.

edit:
Basically IMO ... two tents needs two filters. .... if you want them pulled from a single LARGER fan outside the tents, that would be OK too.
 

CaliMackdaddy

Active Member
Aye mob.. get this, i transfered all my girls into flowering roughly 1 week ago now, no signs of flowering but the "mother plant" i pulled out and put under 24 hours of light is showing various signs of flowering.. but its also possible that i stressed it by feeding after she dried out a bit.. is it possible i hermied her, what should i do? I also started feeding it flowering nutes.. im guessing she thought it was time to flower.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Aye mob.. get this, i transfered all my girls into flowering roughly 1 week ago now, no signs of flowering but the "mother plant" i pulled out and put under 24 hours of light is showing various signs of flowering.. but its also possible that i stressed it by feeding after she dried out a bit.. is it possible i hermied her, what should i do? I also started feeding it flowering nutes.. im guessing she thought it was time to flower.
.... nothing. Sounds like you're all good. :?
 

808killahz

Well-Known Member
Here u go man... i can elaborate if need be...

2013-02-19_15-01-00_147.jpg

Just remember every bend and length of ducting and also your filter will reduce your suction. Adjust your main inline fan accordingly.

Also your intake fans for your tent are too big... 600cfm in and only 400cfm out.
 
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