kevin murphy
New Member
mine was powder form to soil mix pal..
Wow, that Mycorrhizal fungi is no joke!
- Thread starter CSI Stickyicky
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fallinprince
Active Member
so i see ur still up kevin 
if you make a beneficial bacteria foam bucket you can save some money because you dont have to use nearly as much per usage
1/2 a scoop per 2 gallons is what im using and i think that might be a little overkill
if you make a beneficial bacteria foam bucket you can save some money because you dont have to use nearly as much per usage1/2 a scoop per 2 gallons is what im using and i think that might be a little overkill
KingofHearts2die4
Active Member
just wondered because before i transplanted into a bunch of happy frog and budswell i was giving my girl a nice foliar feed of molasses and pureblend grow pro.i also had some myan bacteria and i used the directions and when i phd the micros it was at 3.0 i got really confused and didnt use it. so noone here takes to phing organics?
poplars
Well-Known Member
I've seen soil plants go from unleahtly stunted to healthy and flourishing just within 5 days of applying oregonism xl.... I've seen all I need to see to know that it is some very legit shit...
poplars
Well-Known Member
no ph'ing organics typically isn't a good idea because it doesn't go by the same rules as far as ph uptake goes with the plant,. since the bacteria tends to change the name of the game, you're feeding the bacteria, so the bacteria can feed the plant....
KingofHearts2die4
Active Member
interesting. is there a such thing as adding too much of great white, mycro, or myan bacteria. next time i wont ph the myan shiz...them guys at the hydroponic store know what they are talking about but i guess its just to get an extra 6 bills for the ph up hahaha...also i took the happy frog and ground it up in a magic bullet cause i wanted a more faster release nutriet instead of water...think adding these beasties is gonna open that shit up for to fast of a ride?
poplars
Well-Known Member
if it's all beneficial bacteria, while I'm not saying it's impossible, it is very hard to overdo it.... remember when applying (inoculating) beneficial bacteria, don't feed for atleast 3 days, so the bacteria has time to bond to the roots.
KingofHearts2die4
Active Member
well the food is already in the dirt so i dont have to worry much about that, you dont mean water only do you? besides the dirt holds enough water that i dont have to water often...i must say this year im unhappy with the way my roots had looked when i transplanted a few days ago.they were there just not that vigorous when i had it in sunshine mix..whatever the case she lookin pretty good and bouncin back from her horribly epic neglectedness(ha) a few weeks ago. now has it been said bacteria are for root and fungus is more for flowering?
poplars
Well-Known Member
dunno I water it in... 2 tablespoons per 5 gallons, maybe 3 if you wanna dose em up fat.
I guess you can overdo anything, but applying it more than once is just wasting it.
The bacteria in the soil and the mycos on the roots DO reproduce you know.
I only inoculate once when the rooted clones go into containers and that's it. No more is needed.
The bacteria gets replenished when I use teas and such, but would do just fine with just some molasses every now and then (the ones already in the soil), if no teas were used.
Wet
poplars
Well-Known Member
I don't think th ere's anything wrong with inoculating once per month esp when the roots get wider
fallinprince
Active Member
Guys the best way to innoculate the mycorrhizal is to simply place half whatever the recommended dose in a bucket of non chlorinated water add airstone so the water is almost turbulent, add 1 tablespoon of molasses as it is a readily available food source for the bacteria wait two days with it bubbling its heart out . and you have then mass produced your beneficials in the bucket.
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-how-breed-your-own-beneficial.html This thread explains this method totally worth the read
i think you can only overdo it on hydro at least thats the only place ive heard it happen, when it does you get a thin film that coats your setup and roots. but if you also get the ancient forest the thread recommends you have the best biodiversity money can buy
ancient forest is a humus(soil) harvested from old forests in alaska. im fairly confident its organic.
ill post before and after pictures of my recent plant after using Heisenbergs tea (from that thread)
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-how-breed-your-own-beneficial.html This thread explains this method totally worth the read
i think you can only overdo it on hydro at least thats the only place ive heard it happen, when it does you get a thin film that coats your setup and roots. but if you also get the ancient forest the thread recommends you have the best biodiversity money can buy
ancient forest is a humus(soil) harvested from old forests in alaska. im fairly confident its organic.
ill post before and after pictures of my recent plant after using Heisenbergs tea (from that thread)
fallinprince
Active Member
Before
After 2 days of being fed teaThe brown spots on the second picture are actually clumps of bacteria it feels more like a dirt than a slime and the roots underneath are perfectly healthy
poplars
Well-Known Member
oh damn this is a great idea this is the same thing I do to earth juice and other organic nutrients to make the microbes make more potent food (feeding them with a sugar) and stabilize the ph.... great great man I'm stoked.
chronic coinoisseur
Active Member
Holy shit that first picture tripped me out, looked like your whole operation was underwater...nice roots btw
Nullis
Moderator
Mycorrhizae isn't bacteria, it's a fungus. Products typically come in the form of spores and propagules (spores last longer), but according to some experts neither will last very long in a tea brew like that. Most varieties of mycorrhizal fungi really need the plant roots in order to live and reproduce anyways, and their spores (or propagules) wont last very long although bacteria will indeed thrive and dominate the substrate. If you want to mix a myco product with water you should just use it immediately and refrain from aerating it.
You can also mix it into the soil before planting, and/or apply it directly to the roots. Some dry organic fertilizers already include a few of more varieties of mycorrhizae as well as various common beneficial bacteria: Espoma Bio-Tone S+ is a very available one as well as most if not all Fox Farm Peace of Mind products. Use rates are entirely dependent on the product (read the label!).
AF is an awesome product for tea brewing, but fungi is a little tricky. You really need to get the fungi in the humus growing good before you brew with it. Most fungus prefer different kinds of carbs than most bacteria: fungi go for difficult to digest stuff like cellulose and chitin whereas [most] bacteria thrive on sucrose and simple sugars. Although there are exceptions to the rule on both sides the net result is that given simple carbs, like those in molasses, bacteria will dominate very quickly.
You can let the fungus grow ahead of time by mixing your humus (a cup) with a few tablespoons of powdered oatmeal. Moisten it good and leave it somewhere warm for a few days and after four or five it should be entirely colonized with mycelium. Chunk that up a bit and brew away; but limit the simple sugars to perhaps a teaspoon of blackstrap per gallon. Include sea kelp and maybe some high P guano instead or rock phosphate.
dannyboy602
Well-Known Member
Didn't read whole thread...has anyone ever had samples examined to see if an actual colony existed? Or do you just attribute growth to mycos by visual examination?
Nullis
Moderator
Over the past couple decades electron microscopy has revealed that [most] plants (esp. trees and shrubs) in nature are infected with one or more kinds of mycorrhizae. There are two major prevalent classes of mycorrhizal fungi, which are commercially available: arbuscular\endo-mycorrhizae and ecto-mycorrhizae; thousands of species exist. The two types behave somewhat differently but their general role is to seek out nutrients and water for the plant, which in return produces carbohydrate-rich exudates for the fungus (as well as other microbes). In particular the mycorrhizae is seeking out phosphorous since it is a tricky element for plants to acquire themselves. Most P in the soil is present in tightly bound organic complexes and soluble\available phosphate leaches from the soil easily. We all know that P is very important for our plants to bloom to full potential. Fungi have enzymes which dissociate phosphate groups where they are found and then the fungus can shuttle it to the plant.
Another big reason why the plant teaming with the fungus makes so much sense is due to the attributes intrinsic a fungus: they have hyphae. Hyphae are microscopic thread-like filaments; hundreds of thousands of them comprise visible mycelium. Compared to plant roots, the reduced size means greater surface area and thus greater nutrient acquisition potential. Fungal hyphae can readily go places where plant roots just cannot; they can colonize just about every square inch of a substrate and they can literally go on for miles. Ecto-mycorrhizae are visible on roots and in the medium surrounding them, without a microscope. It is the endo-myco which actually penetrates the epidermal\cortical cells of the root hair which cannot be seen with the naked eye.
With mycorrhizae you should apply less phosphorous and plant food in general. The fungus would rather go out and seek nutrients for the plant.
http://mycorrhizas.info/vam.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorrhiza
