Wow, that Mycorrhizal fungi is no joke!

Nullis said:

AF is an awesome product for tea brewing, but fungi is a little tricky. You really need to get the fungi in the humus growing good before you brew with it. Most fungus prefer different kinds of carbs than most bacteria: fungi go for difficult to digest stuff like cellulose and chitin whereas [most] bacteria thrive on sucrose and simple sugars. Although there are exceptions to the rule on both sides the net result is that given simple carbs, like those in molasses, bacteria will dominate very quickly.
You can let the fungus grow ahead of time by mixing your humus (a cup) with a few tablespoons of powdered oatmeal. Moisten it good and leave it somewhere warm for a few days and after four or five it should be entirely colonized with mycelium. Chunk that up a bit and brew away; but limit the simple sugars to perhaps a teaspoon of blackstrap per gallon. Include sea kelp and maybe some high P guano instead or rock phosphate.

Click to expand...

Your right Mycorrhizae is a fungi however i still wasnt talking about just mycorrhizal. I was also talking about the bacteria spores that are also in those products. As they are not filled with JUST many forms of fungi but also many forms of bacteria and in my circumstance. I need the bacteria that kills root rot off. Your chunky fungi would work great in a soil only setting where as mine also works in a hydroponic setting.

I dont know why you bother adding that line about the simple carbs in molasses like it will make bacteria explode and leave your beneficial fungi behind. its unanimous around the grow scene that molasses should be used over Brown sugar or even just simple white sugar. and if thats all you were trying to get at cut the technical crap and explain it to people the way it should make sense

instead of adding the Ancient forest to a sock and straining it you would simply just pour the gritty humus water mix over your soil. or in between or whatever. it would still work and provide the same effect as adding just the dry powder. imo it would provide a larger one. The purpose of the airstone is to prevent Anaerobic bacteria to outnumber the aerobic. which would cause you to give yourself root rot.

but whatever dont try it. still isnt my loss. I KNOW, it works very well and have seen first hand the effect. also have shown picture proof of it working flawlessly in my hydroponics setting

dannyboy602 said:

Didn't read whole thread...has anyone ever had samples examined to see if an actual colony existed? Or do you just attribute growth to mycos by visual examination?

Click to expand...

If you want to see some form of sign there is a clear film that coats the roots as well as those little "dirt" clumps i would assume are either bacteria or fungi. If you were to intentionally overdo the amount of microbes. it would become thick and noticeable obviously I'm talking about in hydroponics

fallinprince said:

Your right Mycorrhizae is a fungi however i still wasnt talking about just mycorrhizal. I was also talking about the bacteria spores that are also in those products. As they are not filled with JUST many forms of fungi but also many forms of bacteria and in my circumstance. I need the bacteria that kills root rot off. Your chunky fungi would work great in a soil only setting where as mine also works in a hydroponic setting.

I dont know why you bother adding that line about the simple carbs in molasses like it will make bacteria explode and leave your beneficial fungi behind. its unanimous around the grow scene that molasses should be used over Brown sugar or even just simple white sugar. and if thats all you were trying to get at cut the technical crap and explain it to people the way it should make sense

instead of adding the Ancient forest to a sock and straining it you would simply just pour the gritty humus water mix over your soil. or in between or whatever. it would still work and provide the same effect as adding just the dry powder. imo it would provide a larger one. The purpose of the airstone is to prevent Anaerobic bacteria to outnumber the aerobic. which would cause you to give yourself root rot.

but whatever dont try it. still isnt my loss. I KNOW, it works very well and have seen first hand the effect. also have shown picture proof of it working flawlessly in my hydroponics setting

Click to expand...

fallinprince said:

Guys the best way to innoculate the mycorrhizal is to simply place half whatever the recommended dose in a bucket of non chlorinated water add airstone so the water is almost turbulent, add 1 tablespoon of molasses as it is a readily available food source for the bacteria wait two days with it bubbling its heart out . and you have then mass produced your beneficials in the bucket.

Click to expand...

But I thought we were talking about mycorrhizae. The bacteria will multiply but the mycorrhizae will not (unless there are plant roots so recirculating and hydro would be okay I suppose)... assuming there is bacteria (there is only fungi in Rooters Mycorrhizae, for instance). Simple carbs\sucrose is what is in blackstrap, brown sugar and white sugar is highly refined sucrose. Sucrose is a disaccharide of fructose\glucose (technical crap ).

For general tea brewing as in soil or foliar application it wouldn't work out so well for the myco, or other fungi unless you make conditions better for them. Blackstrap is great, yes; but yes more significant amounts of simple carbs (of any form) will leave the fungi behind (we're talking the other fungi because most myco wont proliferate without plant roots anyways).

ataxia i know all too well what youre going through with the urban environment i grew over 50 plants in a 2 bedroom apartment once with neighbors above me and beside me...ohh man never again...you need to get a tough plastic kiddy pool to mix up your soil in and do the transplanting in...for something real easy i would reccomend Age Olds Dry Grow Mix 8-4-1(i use alot like almost a whole cup per plant in 10 gallon pots though) add some of their bonemeal as well 1-11-0 (add around half as much as you did with the grow for veg plants, twice as much for flowering) and some greensand 0-0-6?(same amount as you did grow) and kelp meal(same amt) and most importantly dolomite lime(1/2 cup) and earthworm castings(1 cup per plant)...i personally just use that for my bas mix then i add according to what stage its for(seedling, veg, flower) i mean if you can get guano id add equal amounts that as well high n for veg high P for flower also use aa bit more greensand when its for flower as well. you can even add that to a soiless coco based mix for a cleaner environment(what i had to do for living in an apartment i couldnt destroy) but when you use coco you NEED fine grade dolomite lime and humic acids if youre going organic and not ph'ing your water...so now for the watering schedule...the only liquids i use are humic acids 5%0-0-1, thrive alive b-1 "green" 1-1-1, Age Olds Fish & seaweed 3-3-2 and Plantation Blackstrap UNSULPHURED molasses...for clones or seedlings give thrive alive b-1(1 tsp/2gallons) with just the base soil mix every watering and use 1 tsp/gallon molasses every third waterin with the thrive alive b-1...for veg give 1tsp/ gallon thrive b-1 & 1 tablespoon/gallon Humic Acids, next watering feed 2 tsp/gallon Age Old Fish & seaweed with 1tablespoon/gallon molasses...period for Flower just double these feedings and make sure you have ALOT of bonemeal in the soil. Foliar spray with neem oil and fish & seaweed 1 drop day before waterings...that should pretty much cover the schedule i had to use to keep it clean and simple when i lived in the city...oh and dont ever change the PH of your water after youve added in the mix. make sure its not chlorinated or this is all useless information...to make it non chlorinated get an air pump and heavy duty airstones to run oxygen through your water for 24hours and it will be good enough...dont let the water sit and airate for too long though or it will build up bad stuff also dont cover it either...to use your humic acids if you have it already let me know youre current schedule and everything else and i will tell you how to add it to your schedule i know hydro too i just cant stand it for myself...if youre using a resorvior that pumps through your plants i would forget it though..if not use it in between heavy feedings to create more uptake and availability but no use PH'ing your water when you use this because it offsets the interaction of the humic acids to little or nothing with your plant since humic is a ph buffer itself and causes availability regardless of ph, so basically this is the only thing you SHOULD feed a hydro plant with out adjusting the PH...

KingofHearts2die4 said:

just wondered because before i transplanted into a bunch of happy frog and budswell i was giving my girl a nice foliar feed of molasses and pureblend grow pro.i also had some myan bacteria and i used the directions and when i phd the micros it was at 3.0 i got really confused and didnt use it. so noone here takes to phing organics?

Click to expand...

Dont ever PH anything organic unless your using hydro-soluble organics that are based on salts...NEVER PH when using MYCO it kills them..Please read my organic post a few pages back bro.,..ONE LOVE

kevin murphy said:

i loved it i used great white and they looked really good..

Click to expand...

i also use great white, i just use a tiny pinch, some lite nutes and just a touch of molasses, with every other watering this means i am continualy repopulating and feeding my benies.

chemi said:

What ratios are you guys using with your Soil Mix to Mycorrhizal Fungi?

Click to expand...

try not to worry about ratios man id use 1/3 of a cup per plant in a 5 gallon pot ...

remember all land plants are connected by vast networks of fungal growth that live in symbiosis with the trees and grass, it is very likely that without fungi like mychorizae life on our planet would have never left the oceans

fallinprince said:

Guys the best way to innoculate the mycorrhizal is to simply place half whatever the recommended dose in a bucket of non chlorinated water add airstone so the water is almost turbulent, add 1 tablespoon of molasses as it is a readily available food source for the bacteria wait two days with it bubbling its heart out . and you have then mass produced your beneficials in the bucket.
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-how-breed-your-own-beneficial.html This thread explains this method totally worth the read

i think you can only overdo it on hydro at least thats the only place ive heard it happen, when it does you get a thin film that coats your setup and roots. but if you also get the ancient forest the thread recommends you have the best biodiversity money can buy

ancient forest is a humus(soil) harvested from old forests in alaska. im fairly confident its organic.

ill post before and after pictures of my recent plant after using Heisenbergs tea (from that thread)

Click to expand...

You will increase the population of many beneficial microbes with this method, but it will not increase your myco population, and could actually put it at risk. Many myco soil additives i've seen lately have beneficial microbes and beneficial mycorrhizal fungi in the same powder-like formula. I'd recommend putting those directly on the roots at transplant time.

Personally, i use a less expensive myco-only brand with great results. Something my local shop has for under 10 bucks, i forget brand. I mix it into the soil, and i sprinkle it on the roots, and in the hole, at transplant time. For beneficial microbes, i go the old fashioned way: compost tea. I use various things in my teas, molasses, regular compost, worm shit, Mexican and Jamaican bat shit, kelp, and occasionally i'll add something from a bottle like liquid karma, cal mg, micronutrient, etc. Great results on ALL plants, even my flowers, fruits, veggies, herbs. I give them more mexican guano in veg, and more jamaican in flowering, and i use the jamaican-heavy (P) teas on the flowers and fruiting plants, while i use the mexican-heavy (N) teas on herbs.

This method gives me plenty of micronutrients and alive myco fungi.