Yeah! It's Bud Worm Season. Pics

I recently used BT on my grow area because of caterpillars eating my buds. I couldn't use a broad-spectrum insecticide because 1) of course you wouldn't and 2) I have a healthy ecosystem of beneficial insects in my grow area (aka my backyard) and I don't want to mess with them at all.

BT seems to be working, with no new bud invasions (and I have two plants at vulnerable stages right now) and a reduction in leaf munching as well. And the butterflies, ladybugs, and predator beetles are all still around.
Serious question if a breed was developed that was resistant to bud worm and other insects would you buy it
 

Nonagronomist

Well-Known Member
Serious question if a breed was developed that was resistant to bud worm and other insects would you buy it
I'm told that the ruderalis genes in autoflowering cannabis is somewhat resistant to insects in its own right. So far I've been able to mostly control insect pests by locating my grow area in my garden, which attracts all sorts of predators -- spiders, ladybugs, beetles, mantises, etc. -- and which keeps insect populations under control. I only used BT on the caterpillars because they managed to evade those natural systems.
 
New around here I'm a 2yr grower here in NY currently have 3 5 gallon buckets can someone just pointing in direction on purchasing the spray BT here are my plants I wanna prevent them worms
 

Nonagronomist

Well-Known Member
Here's a caterpillar control new to me, spendy but would be better than spraying buds with bt or poison let these little fellers do it.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/koppert-capsanem-steinernema-carpocapsae-p-11606.html
Like you say, a bit pricey. I suppose if it allows you to create a population of nematodes that would handle the problem in the future, that might be worth the prices. However, BT is really just bacteria, so I don't think I'm poisoning anything.
 

Diabolical666

Well-Known Member
I soooo hate moths. I wish I had a powerful hand vac so I can just suck them out of the air as they flutter around my plants. Last year I had 2 lb outdoor plants and each plant had a cpl buds infected.. some more then others, some not at all, 1 totally anihilated. So maybe some factors with these bastards:strain preference and how much rain has your area had ( more rain, more bugs). I used the bt lightly as I could, bc that smell is gross (menthol). After rains with I light mist, and aftwr inspections when needed. Maybe I should have used more...maybe they would have got infected anyways...
 

backtracker

Well-Known Member
Like you say, a bit pricey. I suppose if it allows you to create a population of nematodes that would handle the problem in the future, that might be worth the prices. However, BT is really just bacteria, so I don't think I'm poisoning anything.
Sunlight degrades Bt after a few hours so it needs to be sprayed after sunset and after they burrow in to the bud it wouldn't help,t is hard to cover every bud on a big plant but the nematodes are mobile as long as it is moist so if they were applied in the evening they would have all night to hunt the worms. I found this stuff https://www.fabric.com/buy/btr-039/54-wide-tulle-red they make it in different colors too. if someone just needed to protect a smaller plant this would keep the moths from laying eggs on the buds. red mulch is used to increase yields in strawberries and tomatoes wonder if it works on pot too.
 

Nonagronomist

Well-Known Member
Sunlight degrades Bt after a few hours so it needs to be sprayed after sunset and after they burrow in to the bud it wouldn't help,t is hard to cover every bud on a big plant but the nematodes are mobile as long as it is moist so if they were applied in the evening they would have all night to hunt the worms. I found this stuff https://www.fabric.com/buy/btr-039/54-wide-tulle-red they make it in different colors too. if someone just needed to protect a smaller plant this would keep the moths from laying eggs on the buds. red mulch is used to increase yields in strawberries and tomatoes wonder if it works on pot too.
Hadn't thought of a screening fabric. I've been following the BT instructions, which are for a thorough soak of the plants, topside and bottomside. I've also inspected the buds closely for any sign of infestation. I did find one individual caterpillar (obviously a hatchling, since it was about a millimeter long) sitting on top of a growing bud, but no other evidence. As for the fluttering moths/butterflies, I welcome them to my yard -- it's a sign of its overall health that they come to it. I just draw the line at them raising their young in my buds.
 

backtracker

Well-Known Member
I use these guys at the start of flowering until done: "The Trichogramma spp., as parasitoids, work by laying eggs in the eggs of many Lepidopteran spp (moths and butterflies). The adult wasps can lay up to 300 eggs each, parasitizing an equivalent number of soon-to-be destructive caterpillars, loopers and/or worms.The wasps’ larvae hatch from the eggs, attack the moths’ eggs’ embryos from within (endoparasitism). Instead of pests hatching out, more mini-wasps emerge instead.The lifespan of these parasitoids is roughly 7 days in their immature stages, then up to 10 days as adults." Do the perimeter out away too. Makes for a lot less work and stress but you still need to look because a few do make it. A bug zapper at night attracts night flying moths ZAAAP!! ZZZZZZ!!! what a beautiful sound. https://greenmethods.com/trichogramma/
 
Can I spray my outdoor plants before any flowers start popping up as a preventive measure against caterpillars , thanks for any help :bigjoint: with BT
 

WildeHilde

Member
BIRDS! you need birds, put out feeders and water baths.. they will start to wait for the seed and clean up branches as they wait. That's what I'd do, as well as hand pick. This is what I did for my vegetable plots works very well and quicker than you might think.
 
BIRDS! you need birds, put out feeders and water baths.. they will start to wait for the seed and clean up branches as they wait. That's what I'd do, as well as hand pick. This is what I did for my vegetable plots works very well and quicker than you might think.
Really never heard of this thanks I'll give it a try ! So you wouldn't use BT on the plants ..
 

Dready420

Member
i think my buds are too far along for me to be spraying BT on em
The bud worms actually have to eat part of the the bud contaminated with the BT to die. So I do not believe it they are too far along. Of course you want to be cautious about mold and mildew and when to spray. BT degrades in sunlight and is best sprayed at dusk which is favorable for mold, but if you have lower humidity night its ok. You can also spray in the morning. It should degrade within 1 week of use. I use it once a week if necessary, but usually not. Ive never tasted it or smelled it, but also have never used past week 6 of flowering. Preventative maintenance is the best medicine here!
 

santacruztodd

Well-Known Member
The bud worms actually have to eat part of the the bud contaminated with the BT to die. So I do not believe it they are too far along. Of course you want to be cautious about mold and mildew and when to spray. BT degrades in sunlight and is best sprayed at dusk which is favorable for mold, but if you have lower humidity night its ok. You can also spray in the morning. It should degrade within 1 week of use. I use it once a week if necessary, but usually not. Ive never tasted it or smelled it, but also have never used past week 6 of flowering. Preventative maintenance is the best medicine here!
Bottom line-you need to be a budworm detective. Look for their poop, and for recently eaten leaves. Where there is poop there are worms. You can shake a branch vigorously and the worms generally fall off. BY sprays like Safer are good-make sure you coat the underside of the leaves. I don't spray buds, so it is only good for vegetative phase. It's OK to give some back to nature, but there is no cure for laziness. You need to stay on top of it and you only have yourself to blame if the worm problem gets out of control.
 

backtracker

Well-Known Member
Can I spray my outdoor plants before any flowers start popping up as a preventive measure against caterpillars , thanks for any help :bigjoint: with BT
Bottom line-you need to be a budworm detective. Look for their poop, and for recently eaten leaves. Where there is poop there are worms. You can shake a branch vigorously and the worms generally fall off. BY sprays like Safer are good-make sure you coat the underside of the leaves. I don't spray buds, so it is only good for vegetative phase. It's OK to give some back to nature, but there is no cure for laziness. You need to stay on top of it and you only have yourself to blame if the worm problem gets out of control.
Early morning is a good time to find them they come out to get the morning sun, they are tiny at first and that's when to get them before they burrow in.
 

trippnface

Well-Known Member
I use these guys at the start of flowering until done: "The Trichogramma spp., as parasitoids, work by laying eggs in the eggs of many Lepidopteran spp (moths and butterflies). The adult wasps can lay up to 300 eggs each, parasitizing an equivalent number of soon-to-be destructive caterpillars, loopers and/or worms.The wasps’ larvae hatch from the eggs, attack the moths’ eggs’ embryos from within (endoparasitism). Instead of pests hatching out, more mini-wasps emerge instead.The lifespan of these parasitoids is roughly 7 days in their immature stages, then up to 10 days as adults." Do the perimeter out away too. Makes for a lot less work and stress but you still need to look because a few do make it. A bug zapper at night attracts night flying moths ZAAAP!! ZZZZZZ!!! what a beautiful sound. https://greenmethods.com/trichogramma/

those things sound badass; where do you pick em up?
I would love to see those elite soldiers fucking these devil moth/worms up

and hell ya; i would love a tesla coil capable of frying anything coming near my plants lol
 
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