Yellowing Leaves week 5 flowering

SauceBauce420

SauceBauce420

Member
I have a Big Bud auto that hasn't been a very strong plant from day 1. She's now in like week 4 or 5 of flowering, I originally thought she hermied on me so I removed it from the tent for 36 hours. Found out it wasn't and put it back in. Now the leaves are yellowing and the colas look like hairy little balls. Thanks in advance.
 

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SauceBauce420

SauceBauce420

Member
Boatguy said:
Kiss is the best method.
If you want to grow with bottles, go soiless or hydro.
If you want to grow organically grow that way.
Mixing shit that breaks down organically with bottles doesnt usually go well.
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Oh, you're saying use organic mediums, and cut out all the extra fertilizer shit?
 
YoZeitgeist

YoZeitgeist

Well-Known Member
SauceBauce420 said:
I have a Big Bud auto that hasn't been a very strong plant from day 1. She's now in like week 4 or 5 of flowering, I originally thought she hermied on me so I removed it from the tent for 36 hours. Found out it wasn't and put it back in. Now the leaves are yellowing and the colas look like hairy little balls. Thanks in advance.
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She looks like she needs phosphorus
SauceBauce420 said:
I have a Big Bud auto that hasn't been a very strong plant from day 1. She's now in like week 4 or 5 of flowering, I originally thought she hermied on me so I removed it from the tent for 36 hours. Found out it wasn't and put it back in. Now the leaves are yellowing and the colas look like hairy little balls. Thanks in advance.
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It could be
SauceBauce420 said:
I have a Big Bud auto that hasn't been a very strong plant from day 1. She's now in like week 4 or 5 of flowering, I originally thought she hermied on me so I removed it from the tent for 36 hours. Found out it wasn't and put it back in. Now the leaves are yellowing and the colas look like hairy little balls. Thanks in advance.
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It looks like you have a lockout and some leaves look too exhibit iron deficiency others phosphorus and magnesium and calcium.

I suffered similar issues in in the early 7th week of my plants which is was only 1st week of flowering in my autoflowers or it's transition or pre flower stage.

I flushed then and foliar fed them while I let the soil dry for two days. I'm in 7 gallon air pots. At your advanced stage of flowering I'd still recommend trying to foliar fed only on the leaves as best as you can after a good flush and correction of the pH.

If you have red stems associated with yellowing and seeing leaves with some necrosis of browning it definitely needs phosphorus.

The plant with the blue straps is my Northern Lights that was a closeup picture of her on Sunday before I flushed them all. After the flush I foliar fed them and Tuesday once the soil was dry I gave them balanced nutes with less nitrogen higher phosphorus and potassium with their needed trace minerals.

My Critical Orange Punch still has slight phosphorus deficiency.
 

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weedstoner420

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
SauceBauce420 said:
I can't use those liquids on soil and worm castings?
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You can, but organic soil and worm castings generally have nutrients in them already, and it can be hard to judge how much of the micro/grow/bloom to use without going overboard.

What kinda organic soil are you using? And how much/often are you giving the liquid nutes? (I'm assuming GH brand?)
 
SauceBauce420

SauceBauce420

Member
weedstoner420 said:
You can, but organic soil and worm castings generally have nutrients in them already, and it can be hard to judge how much of the micro/grow/bloom to use without going overboard.

What kinda organic soil are you using? And how much/often are you giving the liquid nutes? (I'm assuming GH brand?)
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Correct. I use black gold soil, and I feed them every other day ish
 
OrgrO

OrgrO

Well-Known Member
Have you noticed any critters flying around or crawling on top of the soil? When I grew organically I had a bad habit of over watering and would end up with fungus gnats or soil mites. If they got out of hand it would lead to all kinds of deficiencies showing up a few weeks into flowering. Just something to watch out for.
 
SauceBauce420

SauceBauce420

Member
OrgrO said:
Have you noticed any critters flying around or crawling on top of the soil? When I grew organically I had a bad habit of over watering and would end up with fungus gnats or soil mites. If they got out of hand it would lead to all kinds of deficiencies showing up a few weeks into flowering. Just something to watch out for.
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I've paid VERY close attention to that, and so for it hasn't been an issue.
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
SauceBauce420 said:
I have a Big Bud auto that hasn't been a very strong plant from day 1. She's now in like week 4 or 5 of flowering, I originally thought she hermied on me so I removed it from the tent for 36 hours. Found out it wasn't and put it back in. Now the leaves are yellowing and the colas look like hairy little balls. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Based on the picture you posted, I have the following comments....

I grow outdoor in kitchen scrap compost mixed every year into the same soil I've been gardening in for a long time. By a few weeks after putting plants in the ground, I start supplementing feeds with GH nutes maxigro/bloom for the past few years, but I used GH flora nutes in the past.

It looks like the damaged leaves are older, more mature fan leaves. The newest growth looks okay. If it were a pH problem or nute lockout problem, I would expect to see more problems in the newest growth. It is definitely advisable to get yourself a pH pen or some pH strips to get your feed/water in the optimum range though. When your pH is in the zone, the plants perform so much better.

The yellowing/spotting older leaves looks like the plant is transporting nutrients away from the older growth to use on newer growth.

What ratios and what strengths are you mixing the nutes? If you switched to flowering formula before the plant finished stretching, then it is Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is using a lot of N still when it is stretching. If you switch to the high Phosphorous flower formulation before they finish stretching, then the plants will pull the N they want from older growth. Those leaves will yellow, wither and die.

In addition to a couple of supplements, I feed at 100% veg formulation until stretching stops and buds start forming. Then, I feed at 50/50 veg formula / flower formula mixed together for the next couple of weeks. Then, I transition to 100% flower formula for the last few weeks. So I'm only feeding at 100% flower formula for the final 3 or 4 weeks until chop.

Also, I only feed at full manufacturer recommended dosage for about 4 weeks starting from the beginning of stretch, when the plants are the hungriest. Before and after that time frame, I feed at lower strength. Having said this though, I don't think strength of feed is the main issue. I think the issue is switching to flower formulation too early, so the plant is taking N from the leaves.

The yellow looking leaves are not doing anything for the plant. I would trim the yellow/damaged leaves off of the plant. They will not improve. Just focus on loving it the best you can until the end.

What lights are you using? If LED, those temps you posted are lower than ideal. For LED, around 80F during lights on is better. If using HID/HPS/CMH, then 74F or even 76F is good. HID lights radiate more IR light, warming the leaf surface.

40RH is a little low. When running indoor, I prefer to be on the drier side of the VPD chart though because I'm paranoid about mold/rot/mildew. If you're running 80F and 40RH, that is definitely on the dry/warm side of the chart. 74F and 40RH looks better on the VPD chart, but the 74F temp will have slower metabolism.

For reference, I use......

Municipal tap water comes out at 8pH and 200ppm

GH MaxiGro/Bloom at peak 6tsp/5gal
Blue Planet EasyWeed soluble kelp 1/8tsp/gal
WOW soluble humic/fulvic 1/8tsp/gal
PH down with ascorbic acid to 6.5pH

In veg I also apply IPM sprays including foliar feed at 1/4 strength.

My plants seem okay with the feed regimen
IMG_20221008_120527_copy_3991x2993.jpg

Good luck! Peace ✌
 
SauceBauce420

SauceBauce420

Member
Tracker said:
Based on the picture you posted, I have the following comments....

I grow outdoor in kitchen scrap compost mixed every year into the same soil I've been gardening in for a long time. By a few weeks after putting plants in the ground, I start supplementing feeds with GH nutes maxigro/bloom for the past few years, but I used GH flora nutes in the past.

It looks like the damaged leaves are older, more mature fan leaves. The newest growth looks okay. If it were a pH problem or nute lockout problem, I would expect to see more problems in the newest growth. It is definitely advisable to get yourself a pH pen or some pH strips to get your feed/water in the optimum range though. When your pH is in the zone, the plants perform so much better.

The yellowing/spotting older leaves looks like the plant is transporting nutrients away from the older growth to use on newer growth.

What ratios and what strengths are you mixing the nutes? If you switched to flowering formula before the plant finished stretching, then it is Nitrogen deficiency. The plant is using a lot of N still when it is stretching. If you switch to the high Phosphorous flower formulation before they finish stretching, then the plants will pull the N they want from older growth. Those leaves will yellow, wither and die.

In addition to a couple of supplements, I feed at 100% veg formulation until stretching stops and buds start forming. Then, I feed at 50/50 veg formula / flower formula mixed together for the next couple of weeks. Then, I transition to 100% flower formula for the last few weeks. So I'm only feeding at 100% flower formula for the final 3 or 4 weeks until chop.

Also, I only feed at full manufacturer recommended dosage for about 4 weeks starting from the beginning of stretch, when the plants are the hungriest. Before and after that time frame, I feed at lower strength. Having said this though, I don't think strength of feed is the main issue. I think the issue is switching to flower formulation too early, so the plant is taking N from the leaves.

The yellow looking leaves are not doing anything for the plant. I would trim the yellow/damaged leaves off of the plant. They will not improve. Just focus on loving it the best you can until the end.

What lights are you using? If LED, those temps you posted are lower than ideal. For LED, around 80F during lights on is better. If using HID/HPS/CMH, then 74F or even 76F is good. HID lights radiate more IR light, warming the leaf surface.

40RH is a little low. When running indoor, I prefer to be on the drier side of the VPD chart though because I'm paranoid about mold/rot/mildew. If you're running 80F and 40RH, that is definitely on the dry/warm side of the chart. 74F and 40RH looks better on the VPD chart, but the 74F temp will have slower metabolism.

For reference, I use......

Municipal tap water comes out at 8pH and 200ppm

GH MaxiGro/Bloom at peak 6tsp/5gal
Blue Planet EasyWeed soluble kelp 1/8tsp/gal
WOW soluble humic/fulvic 1/8tsp/gal
PH down with ascorbic acid to 6.5pH

In veg I also apply IPM sprays including foliar feed at 1/4 strength.

My plants seem okay with the feed regimen
View attachment 5260458

Good luck! Peace ✌
Click to expand...
Thank you so Much for taking time out of your night to type that up for me. As I said before I'm only a couple of months into this but I've been doing bonsai trees for almost a decade. There are similarities in the training and fertilizer's. How would you recommend I start this journey, building a solid knowledgeable foundation. Tents, a room in my basement, soils, ferts, etc.
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
SauceBauce420 said:
Thank you so Much for taking time out of your night to type that up for me. As I said before I'm only a couple of months into this but I've been doing bonsai trees for almost a decade. There are similarities in the training and fertilizer's. How would you recommend I start this journey, building a solid knowledgeable foundation. Tents, a room in my basement, soils, ferts, etc.
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What's the space like? What's your budget like? What goal are you trying to achieve? What did you already have in mind?

I would recommend that you start small first. Dial in your technique. Then, scale up from there. But if you want to burn some funds and go all out, by all means... you can spend a lot.
 
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