Cupid Stunt
Member
Good luck with that...would be good to see a documented grow with these lights...
Would love if they had a non frosted glass option
LED Comparisons?
- Thread starter DANKSWAG
- Start date
Would love if they had a non frosted glass option
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yes 26W/sq ft is much better. I use about 28W/sq ft but I run them at 45% efficiency with quite an elaborate rigging system and lenseless to get very wide spread, so I recommend a lot more power for the commercial lamps.
That said, its not like it won't work at 26, I just want to make sure you get the knockout results I am sure you are looking for
That said, its not like it won't work at 26, I just want to make sure you get the knockout results I am sure you are looking for
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Supra,Yes 26Wsq ft is much better. I use about 28W/sq ft but I run them at 45% efficiency with quite an elaborate rigging system and lenseless to get very wide spread, so I recommend a lot more power for the commercial lamps.
That said, its not like it won't work at 26, I just want to make sure you get the knockout results I am sure you are looking for
Well then if need be I can for the time until more finances are available utilize my Dorm Grow 450 or better yet acquire some CREE LEDs bulbs for sockets I can hang to add for additional wattage coverage. Perhaps it will be that kind of combination that would provide great coverage and additional wattage with out spending another $450 on additional Onyx panel.
Adding another panel brings the distance between them along the linear plane from which they hang from 19 3/16 inches to 15 inches.
The Watt per Square foot jumps to 32. I don't mind acquiring another one if that will get the job done properly. Though I am curious what these four will do on their own with some lower level supplement Cree LED bulbs shining light inward from the outer edges of where the Onyx reaches.
What do you think, would it be better to add that additional 210 watts a Onyx bloom light produces by hanging another or using supplement LED bulb lighting around the edges shining in.
I am sure I can get 200 watts worth or more for less then 450 and perhaps get better directed light coverage.
Thoughts?
DankSwag
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
That's the right one.
I was just pulling it off the top my head and was a little off.
Apogee MQ-200 is correct.
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Greengenes,
What are your thoughts on adding one more Onyx panel or attempt to add supplemental lighting by purchasing something like these
CREE LEDs and place them in position to fill in voids by adding additional wattage, they are rated at 18 watt so with say 15 watt realized.
So a few of these bundled together in dual socket could add a few extra watts of good light where needed to fill any voids.
DankSwag
What are your thoughts on adding one more Onyx panel or attempt to add supplemental lighting by purchasing something like these
CREE LEDs and place them in position to fill in voids by adding additional wattage, they are rated at 18 watt so with say 15 watt realized.
So a few of these bundled together in dual socket could add a few extra watts of good light where needed to fill any voids.
DankSwag
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
I am a big believer in that getting the plants the amount required in a smaller space is better and more important than not enough wattage over a bigger space.
So with that said...I think 2 more onyx's would be the best option. 3 over each 4x4(ish) is where I would start and see how the coverage:intensity is...then do more additions of smaller/cheaper lights from there if need be.
Coverage is the hardest part about led's and full size spaces.
All depends on what you are trying to pull out of the space. I wold go with .75-1g/w as a base of what to expect. More is obviously welcomed and goaled...but you want to make sure you are at least getting your required yield...that should be priority #1, what ever that is going to take. After that try to maximize efficiency with little tweaks.
So with that said...I think 2 more onyx's would be the best option. 3 over each 4x4(ish) is where I would start and see how the coverage:intensity is...then do more additions of smaller/cheaper lights from there if need be.
Coverage is the hardest part about led's and full size spaces.
All depends on what you are trying to pull out of the space. I wold go with .75-1g/w as a base of what to expect. More is obviously welcomed and goaled...but you want to make sure you are at least getting your required yield...that should be priority #1, what ever that is going to take. After that try to maximize efficiency with little tweaks.
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Well with that being said Greengenes, I am placing two lights each over 6 plants in a 4x4, so you are saying 3 lights over each 4x4 area?
DankSwag
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Yes.
3 over each 4x4...6 total.
My question with onyx us coverage. Slight angles on the outer ones. kind of a less angled version of this /––\ /––\. More angles of penetration will maximize the light used compared all of them perfectly horizontal of the same intensity. With angles there is more un-interfired with light hitting parts of the plant. It's one of the same principals that allows vertical bulb hid's to perform so well. And to grow tomatoes 15' high in greenhouses and still get fruit on the bottoms...lighting directly to the fruits...not just the general plant.
What's your yield goal??? What were you doing and getting before switching to led?
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
DS I agree with GG. 6 Onyx would be awesome but for now adding the dormgrow until you get more funds is a great idea. Also, if you have any HPS that could be a cheap way to get full coverage. I normally recommend against the Cree globes because they are only 89lm/W and omnidirectional. They introduce complexity into the grow space and if you are OK with complexity you could just as well go DIY COBs and get 125lm/W for about the same price.
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Well guys thanks for you input, looks like for the time being I will be utilizing the four I have for one of my dorm grow lights the inner rows of lights and the outer row of leds still light up on that panel. I contacted them yesterday, no answer. I don't want to put any money into them so perhaps if I return it I can get some sort of partial refund, who knows except I am not spending another dime on Dorm Grow.
Anywise I these Onyx leds even with two panels on 4 plants should do me will and when I can get two more of them then I will place six under the set of lights.
I talked with Rapid Led they don't seem to think in another panel is needed in that space but only doing some growing under them will tell.
So I've got the room window cleaned repainted inside around the boarder then sealed it with panda film white facing out black to inside of room. This should help keep out heat from sun and conceal the light given off in that room from prying eyes.
Got the carpet tack strips up and staples out, doing a final sweep on floor today then shellac it, once dry I will lay down the panda film with a boarder running a foot up the walls so I can tack it to the walls using 1x2 board which I will be using to tack down the panda film I will run up the 3 existing walls. Then I will seal the seams between the pieces with silver HVAC tape and tack a 1x2's constructing a frame to keep panda film in place and to used as a platform to further construct while mounting additional equipment.Then I have to frame the final wall which I will divide the room and seal of the flowering room from the veg\clone area.
CO2 equipment is going cost me, any ideas where to get best deal on Titian controller monitor and tank and regulator?
My LG portable air conditioner is in place and currently venting out through the floor in 6 inch ducting, I need to re-route through ceiling into attic, don't really think its best to run under the house there but I made it originally thinking it would be my fresh air intake before I decided to go sealed.
Dehumidifier on the way in case this LG can't keep up.
Got to get to work on building out my passive hydroponic watering system, to essentially automate the flowering room. I will be hand watering in the veg room also have to setup the cloner in there. I am sure there will be some challenges in utilizing the remaining space to clone and veg enough girls to keep it perpetual.
Window sealed, wondering could this room be dual purpose as in a safe room in the event of a biological or chemical attack?
DankSwag
i am loving my onyx got 4 in a 6x6 flower tent and it's smashing it...as seen here
https://www.rollitup.org/t/led-users-unite.240615/page-339
https://www.rollitup.org/t/led-users-unite.240615/page-339
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Ozdude,
Thats awesome did you have led lights before and if so which ones what did you like most about these onyx lights?
You have a thread showing more of what your doing with them?
DankSwag
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Regarding CO2, during the humid season when I close all the windows and run humidity control, I end up with too much CO2 very quickly. Right now it is at 2150 because the windows have been closed for several days. It will soon be above 2500 but I will open up and get some fresh air to knock it down and keep it around 1500. If I open the windows for 30 minutes it will drop to about 1000 but will quickly rise. That is with 2 people in the house and a good sized grow (66 sq ft). If you cook with a natural gas stove that will add a lot of CO2 also. Also the soil is cooking and worm bins are decomposing so that adds some CO2 as well. But what I am getting at is, the plants cannot keep with our respiration and we can take advantage of that.
When I leave the house for a few hours, CO2 is slightly lower when I get back, I should do a few tests to calculate exactly how much they are using.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NPA18A/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1#
When I leave the house for a few hours, CO2 is slightly lower when I get back, I should do a few tests to calculate exactly how much they are using.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NPA18A/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1#
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
So your dehumidifier is adding CO2??
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Luckily it does not because we would not be able to grow big nugs indoors in humid seasons. I am not sure of the consequences of very high CO2 levels, I think >2000ppm is "bad". When humidity is high outside I have have to close all the windows and run the AC and or dehumidifer in order to get humidity under control. Since everything is closed up the CO2 from our exhale builds up in the air space. We exhale about 40000ppm and the air outside is just over 400ppm. We are shooting for 1500ppm ideally.
So the weird thing is, during this time of year I am actually paying to get rid of CO2.
So the weird thing is, during this time of year I am actually paying to get rid of CO2.
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these are my first ever LEDS...and no i don't have a thread..this grow set up will probably go after this harvest...
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
Thanks Supra,
Looks like another gadget I will need to procure. I don't have natural gas line to cook with, but I do have a lighter and an asshole that constantly belches out gas....I can see the tag line now...it not just Grass man, these huge buds came from my ass gas! And if I really want to get into it I could follow my dogs around and light their gas on fire. Since they are only 28 and 36 pound dogs they probably generate the CO2 of a 10 year old child, so they probably help too in keeping CO2 levels up. I really want that monitor now having no idea what my levels are and can't wait to track it with the weather to learn the correlation so I can prepare properly.
I also understand that the plants not only do they only use CO2 during photosynthesis so no need to run CO2 at night but also very importantly they use it mostly during the first 3 weeks of flowering and not so important in maintaining high levels towards later weeks of flowering.
DankSwag
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DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
WHY?
DANKSWAG
Well-Known Member
SSPL and GG707,
Thanks guys for you input I am going to set aside some fruit from my first run with these lights.,
don't know how I will get it to you but will save in your honor for you for my appreciation for your assistance.
Since my propagation was set to replace 4 plants in my perpetual cycle I will only be running 4 instead of 12 plants under these lights on the first run and properly the second and third till I get my propagation numbers up. So I do very well in that I can put four of these around four plants in a square pattern.
This should buy me time to save up for additional lighting. Challenge before me is that I really don't want to be continually re-positioning these lights putting more holes in the ceiling.
It would be nice if there were adjustable light stands for these lights making it easier to re-position them. Short of that the best idea I have is to contact Rapid Led for more hanging gear and install hanging gear in various setup positions so all that has to be done is disconnect from one position and hang in other position, this seams like a more plausible plan and less expensive and allow me to quickly disconnect from one connector post to another set.
Thoughts?
DankSwagin it baby!