DCobeen
Well-Known Member
I agree but i leave a bit more i go down 2 feet to 30 inches and then remove the rest below. but my canopy is so dense with 6 huge ladies all close together i may have to jsut leave 20-24 inches. I will do it on 3 of them that way and only do bottom 18 inches on the other 3 so i can prove the difference.It is a training technique to produce bigger bud sites. Think of it as lollypop to an extreme with sucker branch removal. Exactly opposite of what you would think to do at this stage.. Try it on one and see if it doesn't produce bigger pieces with great bag appeal and weight.
The central shoot is the key and you remove almost everything else including all the sucker shoots that are not the main. You also remove almost all the leaves(90%) because you want the plant to devote all of it's energy to the forming of bud sites in the 18 inch space directly below the light source. About 10-14 days into flower most plants will start to produce bud and stretch is at its max. The main shoots will swell to a massive size directly under the light source and will form 1-2 oz buds on each branch. Anything on the lower branches are larf and pull energy and food from the top mains colas. That's why they have to go. Their weight (loss) is made up for by the extra weight on the main branches.(Usually 6 or more main branches) You prune off all the new leaf sites up to the last two on each keeper branch. All the lowest branches are removed as well. It's that extreme and the branches look like shit for a few days before they rebound. You end up with all tops. So before the hords decend, this is indoor growing specific. However could be used on outdoor plants as well the pruning of each branch..
Will say there are many other conditions involved and benefits to this method. And you wouldn't know to do it unless told or shown.
So there it is. Best thing you'll learn today.