Nutrients for soil grows
- Thread starter SOMEBEECH
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indianajones
Well-Known Member
the best worm castings i have ever used were greensense
brand. the worms are fed rabbit poo, the rabbits are fed alfalfa.
there are plans on the internet for building a worm bin right under
a rabbit's cage, so their poo falls straight into the bin.
brand. the worms are fed rabbit poo, the rabbits are fed alfalfa.
there are plans on the internet for building a worm bin right under
a rabbit's cage, so their poo falls straight into the bin.
violence1982
Active Member
I am just starting to grow indoor and am wondering also what to use under a 600 watt indoor grow. Thank YOu
wascaptain
Well-Known Member
how about rain water? my rain water has a ppm of 35 and 7 ph...I bubble it for a day before watering my plants. I make my teas with it too.
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
9 times out of ten I would prefer rain water over any municipality's offerings.........unless you live in Shanghai
Be safe
indianajones
Well-Known Member
test your tap, in my area it works really well if you use just a little
bit of botanicare or general organics to bring the pH down from
mid 7s to mid 6s. brings the ppm up to around 400-500.
bit of botanicare or general organics to bring the pH down from
mid 7s to mid 6s. brings the ppm up to around 400-500.
SOMEBEECH
Well-Known Member
Good genetics...I do love my Rain catcher.Grew a plant for 4-5 weeks with it 10ppm and x2 airstones.No issues at all.
I use only rainwater when I have it,10 months out of the yr.Other 2 its froze or just to cold to mess with...
Bryon240
Well-Known Member
thanks,what is RO water,
Reverse osmosis (RO) is a water purification technology that uses a semipermeable membrane. This membrane technology is not properly a filtration method. In reverse osmosis, an applied pressure is used to overcome osmotic pressure, a colligative property, that is driven by chemical potential, a thermodynamic parameter
I just googled it...lol
PRO-100 - portable countertop reverse osmosis system with 100 gallon per day membrane (1 gallon in about 15minutes, 98% TDS reduction)
$299.00 suggested list, your cost - $169.00, with free refrigerator bottle, free TDS meter and free shipping (in contiguous U.S.).
is this what I should buy or is there a better "home made" version I could build??? thanks again.
Reverse osmosis (RO) is a water purification technology that uses a semipermeable membrane. This membrane technology is not properly a filtration method. In reverse osmosis, an applied pressure is used to overcome osmotic pressure, a colligative property, that is driven by chemical potential, a thermodynamic parameter
I just googled it...lol
PRO-100 - portable countertop reverse osmosis system with 100 gallon per day membrane (1 gallon in about 15minutes, 98% TDS reduction)
$299.00 suggested list, your cost - $169.00, with free refrigerator bottle, free TDS meter and free shipping (in contiguous U.S.).
is this what I should buy or is there a better "home made" version I could build??? thanks again.
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PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Reverse osmosis........the ultimate in water filtration, will bring your ppms down to zero(calcium/magnesium will need to be added/amended). Not cheap, but necessary if your water supply is questionable? If you use your well water on other plants with good results, then it's fine IMO.
Good luck grower
Nullis
Moderator
Reverse osmosis systems also waste a lot of water, as there is a waste or reject stream which contains the solutes. Some systems waste more than others.
If your tap/starting water isn't that bad or you just want to remove the chlorine/chloramines, you could just use a good activated charcoal/ion exchange filter. Brita/Pur are simple, tabletop examples of such filters but they sell more sophisticated/larger systems (many have dual filters) that handle higher loads. These are typically much cheaper than RO systems, they don't waste as much water and they do remove most of the chlorination, chlorination by-products, heavy metals, and various other toxic substances. They do not all remove fluoride, at least the most elementary strictly activated carbon ones won't although some filters employ an ion-exchange resin/deionizer or other technologies which make them more capable.
Anyone who does have a rain barrel, it should really by emptied before winter or at least not left full and secured to something. There are a couple reasons for this. One is to prevent damage to the barrel from water expanding as it freezes. The other reason is that these things can actually be dangerous, especially if they are chock full and unsturdy as they are very heavy when full.
If your tap/starting water isn't that bad or you just want to remove the chlorine/chloramines, you could just use a good activated charcoal/ion exchange filter. Brita/Pur are simple, tabletop examples of such filters but they sell more sophisticated/larger systems (many have dual filters) that handle higher loads. These are typically much cheaper than RO systems, they don't waste as much water and they do remove most of the chlorination, chlorination by-products, heavy metals, and various other toxic substances. They do not all remove fluoride, at least the most elementary strictly activated carbon ones won't although some filters employ an ion-exchange resin/deionizer or other technologies which make them more capable.
I bring my barrel in at the first prospect of a deep freeze. First it gets emptied half way or as much as is needed to be able to lift it (still, with help). I fill as many 2.5 gallon jugs as I can and store these along with the barrel in a 3-season room. Then, if I need to, I pay attention to the weather and any chance that it could rain during the Winter months I just use a 5-gallon bucket to collect what I can and dump it in the barrel.Good genetics...I do love my Rain catcher.Grew a plant for 4-5 weeks with it 10ppm and x2 airstones.No issues at all.
I use only rainwater when I have it,10 months out of the yr.Other 2 its froze or just to cold to mess with...
Anyone who does have a rain barrel, it should really by emptied before winter or at least not left full and secured to something. There are a couple reasons for this. One is to prevent damage to the barrel from water expanding as it freezes. The other reason is that these things can actually be dangerous, especially if they are chock full and unsturdy as they are very heavy when full.
You probably live where the ground water flows through or the water table meets deposits of limestone. Acid rain or water saturated with carbon dioxide dissolves the lime and results in bicarbonates (calcium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate) in the water. As fas as TDS 124 ppm isn't really that bad, although 10 seems like a very high pH for drinking water and that could be a problem. Say the pH of that water was 8 instead, it wouldn't be that bad. I generally tell people to add lime to their soil (instead of pH adjuster) unless they have really alkaline water, since such water typically has lime dissolved into it. So, you definitely wouldn't need lime or any Ca/Mg supplements under such circumstances, but the pH of that water is probably too high regardless unless you're growing in straight sphagnum peat moss.
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Chlorine isn't as much of a concern as the cheaper alternative the municipalities are turning to.......but your correct on the large waste an ro system can create......definitely not environmentally conscious.
I doubt his ph is that high with such a low tds......something is inaccurate there IMO(calibrated pen?)
I doubt his ph is that high with such a low tds......something is inaccurate there IMO(calibrated pen?)
hyroot
Well-Known Member
this one doesn't produce waste water
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Perfect-Water-Technologies-Home-Master-Jr-F2-Elite-SinkTop-Water-Filtration-System-in-White-TMJRf2E/203841387#product_description
britta and pur filters don't remove a thing. Ppm's stay the same.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Perfect-Water-Technologies-Home-Master-Jr-F2-Elite-SinkTop-Water-Filtration-System-in-White-TMJRf2E/203841387#product_description
britta and pur filters don't remove a thing. Ppm's stay the same.
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Doesn't waste because it's not an RO system== won't lower your ppms
Brita and pur remove some " baddies "just not a lot.......hence the price
gardengardian7
Well-Known Member
Beech did you ever do that recipe?
SOMEBEECH
Well-Known Member
YES,Found i could get the same results with just a few amendments.Not so costly.
If you go to Cannabis Country you will see my Shoreline,I got bud of the week. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCAQFjAA&url=http://www.cannabis-country.com/&ei=vw5IVK7WFIGSyASbqIKYBw&usg=AFQjCNG4ghq0aeAgXyME_Vvam_tKIU4Mxg&sig2=A8FJdnQhKanpTdczGaIDUw&bvm=bv.77880786,d.aWw
Heres the link...That was grown with ROLS.
gardengardian7
Well-Known Member
Excellent work! Im deep in thought sir....
lilmafia513
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't call it a soil recipe as much as a compost pile blend.........
But, i accumulate grass clippings, soil from my garden, leaves, and food scraps, turned on a monthly basis.
Then in the spring, i take my pile and spread it out where it lays, in a rectangle shape. Plant my clones when they are about a foot tall, when they take to the spot, i top them and start bending and tying.....
That year i take more dirt out of my garden, pile it up to one side of my plot, and start over with grass clippings, and food scraps. Then in the fall i take the leaves and add them slowly over time while turning. When harvest hits, i take the remaining soil, what was once a pile, pile it up and return it to my garden. In the spring i start the process over again.
Here is my purple trainwreck from Humboldt county seeds organization after 10 weeks outdoor in my compost plot....It could have went another week or so but the temps dropped drastically here this year in october, she had to come down before the rainy season started lol
But, i accumulate grass clippings, soil from my garden, leaves, and food scraps, turned on a monthly basis.
Then in the spring, i take my pile and spread it out where it lays, in a rectangle shape. Plant my clones when they are about a foot tall, when they take to the spot, i top them and start bending and tying.....
That year i take more dirt out of my garden, pile it up to one side of my plot, and start over with grass clippings, and food scraps. Then in the fall i take the leaves and add them slowly over time while turning. When harvest hits, i take the remaining soil, what was once a pile, pile it up and return it to my garden. In the spring i start the process over again.
Here is my purple trainwreck from Humboldt county seeds organization after 10 weeks outdoor in my compost plot....It could have went another week or so but the temps dropped drastically here this year in october, she had to come down before the rainy season started lol
MrStickyScissors
Well-Known Member
Soil a and b from house and garden , bud blood , bud blaster, hygrozym , rapid start, snow storm, gravity, silica not silica blast but one that is 3% forgot the name. And roots organic soil