giving defoliation during flower a try

Sativied said:
I like his comments on LED and 600w hps though. Damn shame he left.
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He left after I asked him if the garden photos were his.

That guy really was full of bullshit, but, I've seen 'em all over my 15 years of posting to cannabis forums.
 
Dude i had to re log in with a different account I deleted the old one but cant believe people listen to this dude uncle ben..

Those are my photos stop being jealous.. haters are my motivators if i aint doin suttin right wouldnt have peoplelike u thinkin i had to steal shots of my garden lol ur still a clown sorry people listen to this idiot.. i have never in my life signed onto a different forum bcuz of morons like you who dont even know what they are really talking about so please shut your mouth about me u dont know me u never seen me before and stop actin like u know how to grow bcuz u dont.

Walmart foods are still garbage.. Dyna grow isnt a cannabis specific nutrient shit has way too much nitrogen for bloom and it produces crap go look at studies that are verified on youtube and side by sides there no way in fckin hell its better than canna - advanced or h&g so please stop - yes pk boosters trigger yellowing and leaf drop because they are products that ripen and push your plant into final drive to complete flowering DUH - but if you knew what u were talking about u would know that..

It appears to me ur just broke and you cant afford to purchase real nutes specfici for MJ so u go buy cheapest shit u can get.. Not only are the companies i named better but there products dont contain the heavy metals and GMO and laboratory synthetic macro and micro nutrients that are not ideally safe for both consumption and smokig but hey if u dont care what goes in your body i dont either.. Miracle grow - peters jacks classic all those off shelves not specific nutrients are not formulated specficially for MJ and dont uphold standards in being same for consumption MJ is a unique plant - its not grass a shrub a tree or a citrust plant like i see people on here saying or a tropical fruting plant idk what thats all about lol.. Shit grows in arid desert climates to high cold mountaneous regions to tropical climates all over world.. Idk wtf u people are talking about sometimes makes me giggle..

Anyways.. To a answer other dudes response to using GH 3-part ferts like i said before they work and will get results alot of reason that commercial growers use them is because they are inexspensive, they do work and they are easy to use and contain a good majority of all macro and micro nutrients to get you through flowering.. With hat said these large commercial growers also only run the GH in veg and esrly flowering and id say 75-85% of them switch to a better nutrients to finish the flowering regimen to increase quality and yield of flowers very rarely find them running agH the entire way through.. Prime exammple is in this months issue of high times and last month the big industrial growers are using GH through early and late veg and a week or 2 until stretch is done then switch over to better stuff.. Thats for a reason Gh 3 part imo and my runs i have done over past decade cannot and will not as a Stand Alone fert nothing else added produce quality high yields or taste/smell..

To answer other question about foxtailing.. Foxtailing is NOT a cannabis specfici trait it occurs for a few reasons..
1: you did not cut down your plants when they were ripened and you let them flower for too long causing them to get back into a veg like state or 2nd wave of flowering peirod this drastically reduces thc content terpenes and cannibinoids in the flowers 2: you overloaded the (K) Potassium causing them to foxtail or 3: u caused too much stress on your plant primarily caused by heat the plants are naturally trying to seerste the buds from sweating and perspiration throug respiratory process forcing them to open up and release the added heat.. (Not usually primary cause just added to reasons above)

Last but not least the dude with those lanky ass plants using dynagrow shit has nothing to do with your strain being "leafy" dyna grow has too much nitrogen causing plants to produce extra foliage and vegatation.. You dont want to add any nitrogen other than whats in your base bloom ferts or cal mag after the 2-3rd week on indicas and the 4th week on sativa dominant varieties.. High nitrogen in bloom also inhibits flowering and fruiting development in bloom.. Go research it thats why no bloom ferts for cannbis specific nutrient contain high amounts of N thats for a reason.. High nitrogen content also causes plants to burn in flowering as well as phosphorous which is why when u supplement with bloom enhancers and pk boosters you should cut back on the base ferts so u dont get an overload.. Potassium in new studies have proven more beneficial in flowering development carrying macro and micro nutrients to flower for increased growth and development.. High levels of nitrogen also cause flowers to lack taste and cause plants to have hollow stems making them susceptible to PM and fungus' by weaking cell wall and structure in your plants.. Thats why adding a silicste is always recommended furthermor excess nitrogen in bloom after peak flowering inhibits bud development causing plants to stretch and become lanky instead of staying shirt wnd stocky.. Do your HW everyone uncle ben is not a someone id be looking to for advice if you want serious results so stop actin like you do because u been on here making posts for 10 yesrs half shit u say is BS
 
image.jpg Here still more bs about my pics right check date on magazine dipshit

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Heres a pic of them stretching a week after first pic lemme guess stole that too
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And heres a pic of nice short stocky plant with the snake oil i use
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Oh but i stole em right lol come on dude stop hatin bro ur a clown
 
Cant wait to here i stole these or lemme guess i must have photoshopped me holding this months issue of skunk magazine rigt ur a retard
 
Canna is the best lineup in the industry.. Everyone tries to duplicate their formula many have tried many have failed.. Only thing need run with canna is added N in first 2 weeks bloom if usin bio-canna organic line and roots excelleratur by h&g still best root innoculant on the market! Canna cult member! Idk if you guys look into new nutrient lines but another guy who use to work for advanced laboratory just developed a nutrient company called (Complete Nutrients) they are based out of Florida basically formulated a complete nutrient line based off of Canna and his experience working at Advanced Nutrients to reformulate the boost and bases.. Comes in same bottles as Canna does but they have added a B+ stimulator and Sweetener.. Everything else is very similar runs 2 part base, root innoculant, enzyme, boost, pk boost, sweetener and multi b vitamin and humic fulvic acid..

Price is comparable to h&g but supposed to be better than Canna.. Its still very new they were at the boston maximum yield expo few weeks i got to talk to the owner and rep for company and got my hands on some sample packs and gonna start trying it on the next quadrant of lights in a few weeks if anyone intereste lemme know supposed to be best nutrient lineup cothat came out in past few yesrs and they gusrantee phenomal results onpar or better than canna and advanced.. Owner real stand up guy too also a owner down in florida got about 10 stores down there have check it out!! If anyone is already on it and using it i would love hear some feedback and results with that lineup very interested seems to be one of the better new nutrients on the market.. Cheers
 
Uncle Ben said:
He left after I asked him if the garden photos were his.

That guy really was full of bullshit, but, I've seen 'em all over my 15 years of posting to cannabis forums.
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I was being sarcastic about it being a shame he left, but he made some valid points about using 600 vs 1K when running multiple lights for example. And I agree with his comments about LEDs. Funny how recently a LED grower referred to HPS as streetlights, while the opposite is fact (those LEDs are amongst others designed for streetlights, interior lighting in shops etc, opposed to HPS horticulture lights, ask Philips or Cree :)).

pk_boosted2 said:
Foxtailing is NOT a cannabis specfici trait it occurs for a few reasons..
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The problem is that apparently many don't know the difference between sativa/haze bud structure and foxtails... What people refer to as foxtails IS in many cases genetics, i.e. a cannabis trait.

There's nothing special about Canna except the price. Same elements... see the thread on bloom boosters. You're obviously a Canna-fan and not able to see through the label/brand.

Glad you're back. No need for all the name calling.
 
I wouldnt subject myself to name callin.. But when i got people who got their little cult followers on a cannabis forum that wanna call me a liar and tell me im an idiot and that i have to steal other peoples work etcc.. There is gonna be some backlash esp. When i took my time to look through the naysayers posts and find that they are in fact the frauds on here.. I simply came onto this site to trest people with respect and be open to sharing my knowledge and information i have learned over the course of the last decade of cultivation.. I also am a store owner and i own a large plant and vegetable nursery and my credentials speak for themselves.. I came here to help people because i wish someone would have done same for me as i began i had many pitfalls switching from ornamental plants and vegetables until i got licensed to cultivate cannabis.. With that being said i find it discouraging that for someone the uncle ben when asked questions or people speak out about running cannabis specific nutrients he points fingers and tells people they are wrong and they dont know what they sre doing when thats absolute BS.. Im not gonna stand for it or be subject to his non-sense because i know better. Bottom line for me is this dude isnt god he didnt invent cannabis he doesnt know everything and i find looking through his posts he knows very little about what makes cannabis flourish and surpass any base platform for yields and quality to produce superior ,medical grade cannabis not just your average homegrown pot. So thats my input i will stand by that because of everything i know and i have seen from his posts and hope others arent afraid to speak out against his belittling and calous attitude towards people who dont agree with him. Cheers
 
pk_boosted2 said:
Dude i had to re log in with a different account I deleted the old one
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excuse me?

1) you can't delete your own account
2) your first account PK_Boosted is still active
3) I have just posted onto your first account's home page
 
Dude who cares i changed all the information and pw and emails accounts so i couldnt use it anymore who f*ck cares if its physically deleted or semi removed myself from it.. This is a forum for cultivation and out of everything people say youre worried wbout whether u can still send the account a message omg people wtf is wrong w you guys.. Stay focused on the topic not the bs
 
Considering the newer models of white LEDs are around the same efficiency than HPS or slightly higher, depending on how hard they're driven, I would agree that replacing HPS with LED in street lights would be a win.

The cone shaped output pattern reduces light pollution, and the CRI is between 80-91 depending on which type of phosphor you get, which both render color much more accurately than HPS. Lastly, they don't need to be changed as often, which for streetlights is great because nobody ever seems to change those, even when they keep flickering off and on.

You can get up to 50% efficiency with the white leds, but only by getting the most expensive model and seriously underdriving it, which for most is considered an unreasonable startup cost. In practice the majority of DIY cob grows are running at 30-40% efficiency, while commercial prebuilt led lamps tend to be running at 25-33% efficiency.
 
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pk_boosted2 said:
Dude who cares i changed all the information and pw and emails accounts so i couldnt use it anymore who f*ck cares if its physically deleted or semi removed myself from it.. This is a forum for cultivation and out of everything people say youre worried wbout whether u can still send the account a message omg people wtf is wrong w you guys.. Stay focused on the topic not the bs
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Found your grow,
Butthurt.jpg
 
pk_boosted2 said:
Dude who cares i changed all the information and pw and emails accounts so i couldnt use it anymore who f*ck cares if its physically deleted or semi removed myself from it.. This is a forum for cultivation and out of everything people say youre worried wbout whether u can still send the account a message omg people wtf is wrong w you guys.. Stay focused on the topic not the bs
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just don't BS, then we can stay focused on the topic
 
I agree canna and h&g nutes are hands down the cleanest
PK_Boosted said:
All information giving is for educational purposes for individuals who are growing medicinal marijuana for prescribed and recommended use by your doctor and pharmacists.. Any information giving is to be used by such patients and card holders to help themselves and their patients develop the purest and cleanest medicine available for use in curing debilitating diseases and pain from their illnesses..

Ok somhere we go the dreaded defoliation technique.. Defoliation works to a certain extent let me explain.. If you are running large plants in a scrog or sea of Green style grow then I recommend lollipopping the lower 1/3 of your plants to promote growth in the areas that are receiving the majority of your light and concentrate increased flower development and larger colas..while removing those unwanted Larfy budding sites that will drain your plant of vital energy under your canopy!!

Now with that being said DO NOT defoliate sativa dominant strains.. Sativas by nature are elongated meaning the have more stems and less foliar leaf structure by nature growing in low humidity high temperature regions of the world they don't need the large thick branching fan leaves required for respiration like indica dominant varieties..

It is important to understand why you should defoliate, how much and when.. It's only okay to defoliate larger inner fan leaves that are blocking flowering sites from receiving the light they need to promote flowering development.. The leaves are your solar panels and energy producing regions of your plant that also help your plants breathe and create the sugars and carbohydrates that drive your plants into growth and development... Would you want to cut a piece of your lung out or sever a section of your throat? The same reason you don't want to cut off the majority or partial amount of your leaves, it is okay to remove the sites and smaller lower flowering branches but leaving the leaf portion on the stem itself.. Hopefully that's not too confusing..

I have tried to defoliate all types of varieties have done numerous experiments on same varties in controlled climates and rooms and the defoliated plants always take longer to develop, you don't get the same growth or quality (resins sugars terpenes) from those plants which were simply stripped of lower flowering sites that are light deprived and taking energy away from the development of upper nodes and flowers..

The ONLY time you want to defoliate is 2 weeks or the last week before harvest when your plants have now turned yellow you are depleting the nitrogen and removing excess nutrients from your plants and flowers to promote taste and smell.. At this time you can defoliate 75-90% of all your fan leaves besides the main leaves that make up your colas which you will trim later on before they are dried and cured.. Taking these leaves off at this time will remove excess nutrient build up and create a natural flushing process while also stressing the plant a little to increase the resin production and terpenes that give your plants the smell funk and taste everyone is trying to achieve..

Try whatever you think will work but I promise you that unlike the cowpea or apple tree experiment you see online the plants we are pushing to promote growth size weight and yield do not react the same as those expirements making such claims as 30% more yield yada yada yada.. They simply are not true and also DO NOT forget that any idiot with internet access and a computer can make a website with someone else's pictures and tell you this works and do X-Y-Z but they are just lying.. Do your own HW make sure the information you read and people are credible.. good farming BOL.. Hope this helps everyone reading and trying to improve their yields and quality of life!! Cheers..

Also defoliating and those people making such claims are the same people telling you they got 2 lbs of flowers off their 600w new LED.. LED's are 3-5 years away from being capable of producing any results similar to a HID cando... hID are till King of the indoor jungles.. Another new product to look into are Rocket Plasma lighting.. You need to run 2 (900w) plasma per 1 HID's but you save double the money and can cover 4 times the amount of space.. A 900w rocket plasma runs 1 amp on a 240v circuit with a full spectrum bulb that is good for 20 years and never needs to be changed I will be doing some updates soon as the results from a couple runs are completed for accurate information!!
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pk boosted- so when you trim the larf you leave the leaves? Also do you trim after 2 weeks? I always trimmed week 3, is this correct? I'm coming onto week 2 and week 3 in 2 different flower rooms and am going to give it a try.
 
Sativied said:
I was being sarcastic about it being a shame he left, but he made some valid points about using 600 vs 1K when running multiple lights for example.
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The clock strikes 12 twice a day,

Gonna toot my own horn......

Speaking of 600W...back in the day no one had even heard of them much less used them, but me. I started to reveal the efficiencies compared to 1000W while this kid was still drooling in his Booster chair. :mrgreen:

Like the 4 main topping drill, air layering, use of Citrus FeED, and using other normal conventional plant foods, etc. the trend (600W HPS) caught on and the rest is history.

UB
 
Hey wsp bud thats a great question.. Yes and no is the answer, yes i do leave the stem and leaves those are critical to maintain energy and provide photosynthesis for the plant.. The very small i call "sucker shoots" that grow off main stem i cut to about 1/3 away up.. On the larger branches w flowering sites that dont really make their way up to the top canopy i simply strip all nodes except the top one off leaving the leaves as they grow back i just continue to remove the flowering site..

The second part i find that depends on how many weeks your variety is and how long they stretch for..msome varieties are quick bloomer and finish stretch in 2 weeks others take longer.. 3rd week on a 9-10 weeker is probably ok but i like to stop everything by 2nd week because usually the third week is when your in peak flowering and i dont want to stress them out or try recovering branches and sites i want them to focus on using alltheir energy to grow the sites and flowers.. Most often if i really stay on top of things usually dont need to do anthying after i switch lights.. Sometimes u get busy or miss things here and there and a little trimming is necessary for optimum canopy growth focusing on only the main colas.. I hate the larfy popcorn buds a pain in ass to trim and i find it def takes away from upper cola dominance and diminsihing yields if you leave them on. Idea is to maximize your main colas to produce the largest healthiest flowers by focusing all plants energy on those sites not the ones that dont get proper lighting and sir circulation makes a huge diff n final yield and saves ton of trim time.
 
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