churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I got a box on amazon. The lever spring clamping has been extremely reliable.Where sis I get em?
I got a box on amazon. The lever spring clamping has been extremely reliable.Where sis I get em?
Now that's an idea!Yeah...looks great. Just need a hole saw now so you can just use one length of aluminum. Either way...it'll probably work fine like that.
Ditto on the drill press. Doable with a drill but the press makes it much easier
Thats what I was thinking..hole saws come in sizes just right for a fan. But like you said, quite a bit of air does make its way down the fins without anythingHey man, super efficient, clean build and good spread, nice work! @Positivity curious what did you mean regarding hole saw? (Edit I think I get what you mean, a one piece shroud with opening for fan?
I got ya. I can butt those up to the fan and flatten them out, not a problem. Thanks!Hey man, super efficient, clean build and good spread, nice work! @Positivity curious what did you mean regarding hole saw? (Edit I think I get what you mean, a one piece shroud with opening for fan?
@tightpockt I think you are right regarding shrouds, probably the most efficient way to implement them would be flat to the surface of the fins and sealed off on both sides of the fan. I may have confused the issue by encouraging only a partial shroud in the case of a fan failure. For long heatsinks, this is what I had in mind for a partial:
View attachment 3426649
However, even with fans at 7.5V it works very well without a shroud. Ops is at 12V so I expect plenty of air as is. Probably the main benefit would be that you could run the fans at a much lower fan speed.
Another quality DIY build. I think Supra's suggestion about how to use the shrouds is worth following though I think the shroud should cover all of the COBs to the end of the run.Soooooo
What do you guys think!!
That's an ideafor the lenses maybe use the drill press and glue/press fit in some magnets and then glue some in the screw holes on the lense holder so you can just remove them at will for cleaning or what ever.
You are right. That's why I just built one and posted. Back to the drawing board!Another quality DIY build. I think Supra's suggestion about how to use the shrouds is worth following though I think the shroud should cover all of the COBs to the end of the run.
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I'm saying that if you just move your existing shrouds to butt against the fan, you won't cover the end of the run. I'd cut new shrouds that went from edge of fan to end of heat sink and mount them tight to the fins. Perhaps the same machine screws that hold the drivers in place would be all you need to also hold the shrouds. I'm not too big on the hole saw idea.That's an idea
You are right. That's why I just built one and posted. Back to the drawing board!
You can mix and match, but after talking to the guys here and doing a lot of research, 3000k is good for bloom. You can mix in 2700 and 4000 but I wouldn't go higherAwesome man. The reason besides the realstyles leds why i registered here.
One question, what would be the best color temperature for bloom?
2700k/3000k or
2700k/3000k + 4000k (equal amount blue but more red than 5000k or 6500k) or
2700k/3000k + 5000k.
i plan on building 4 lamps in total with each 4 cobs on it run @ 700mA. I want to build two lamps at once. look how it is and if i like i build 2 more. now i am unsure about the color spectrum i should order.
If i should mix them, and i have 8 cobs i want to buy now, in what ratio should i mix them? and like mentioned before is 4000k better than 5000k in the bloom cause it has more reds and an almost equal amount of blue compared to the 5000k (cree datasheet)
also is there any data available on the 2700k and 6500k leds? the cree datasheet only shows 3000,4000,5000