churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I got a box on amazon. The lever spring clamping has been extremely reliable.
First LED build CXB3590
DoctorDelta9
Well-Known Member
Well I finally started!
After attempting to drill.a few holes by hand, I said fuck this and got a drill press, what a difference!!
Ingredients
Cxb3590 3000k 72v x12
5.88x52" HSUSA
5.88x24" HSUSA
Noctuna 140mm x4
24x36 sheet aluminum
Mean well hlg-120h-1050c x6
12v 1a fan driver x4 (eBay 4$/each
Prolimatech pk3
Ideal holders.
80deg lenses.( I haven't installed them yet but the holes are there.)
Misc wiring and hardware
I did break one tap in the process, just takes patience, but I stated cranking them out in about 5 mins per hole, lube is essential!
Here's the finished drilled/tapped/cleaned sinks
I ended up using tie straps for the fans
I used the sheet aluminum to create channels to use the fan more efficiency ( thanks @SupraSPL !)
And the drivers mounted nicely on top of those, and will provide some nice cooling almost like heatsinks for my drivers.
Getting close!
Fireing the first one up!!
2 down!
The vegging sink didn't leave me with much room so I mounted the mean well caddywompus and used thermal adhieseve to stick it to the fins.
Finished!
I couldn't be happier, thanks everyone on here who helped me! Still have 2 more to put together but I got it down now. A couple of hours and I'll have em all done...
Soooooo
What do you guys think!!
After attempting to drill.a few holes by hand, I said fuck this and got a drill press, what a difference!!
Ingredients
Cxb3590 3000k 72v x12
5.88x52" HSUSA
5.88x24" HSUSA
Noctuna 140mm x4
24x36 sheet aluminum
Mean well hlg-120h-1050c x6
12v 1a fan driver x4 (eBay 4$/each
Prolimatech pk3
Ideal holders.
80deg lenses.( I haven't installed them yet but the holes are there.)
Misc wiring and hardware
I did break one tap in the process, just takes patience, but I stated cranking them out in about 5 mins per hole, lube is essential!
Here's the finished drilled/tapped/cleaned sinks
I ended up using tie straps for the fans
I used the sheet aluminum to create channels to use the fan more efficiency ( thanks @SupraSPL !)
And the drivers mounted nicely on top of those, and will provide some nice cooling almost like heatsinks for my drivers.
Getting close!
Fireing the first one up!!
2 down!
The vegging sink didn't leave me with much room so I mounted the mean well caddywompus and used thermal adhieseve to stick it to the fins.
Finished!
I couldn't be happier, thanks everyone on here who helped me! Still have 2 more to put together but I got it down now. A couple of hours and I'll have em all done...
Soooooo
What do you guys think!!
tightpockt
Well-Known Member
Nice build, just curious why the shrouds are spaced away from the fan. If you put them next to the fan wouldn't you force more air through the channels?
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Yeah...looks great. Just need a hole saw now so you can just use one length of aluminum. Either way...it'll probably work fine like that.
Ditto on the drill press. Doable with a drill but the press makes it much easier
Ditto on the drill press. Doable with a drill but the press makes it much easier
DoctorDelta9
Well-Known Member
Now that's an idea!
Much cleaner appearance too!
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Hey man, super efficient, clean build and good spread, nice work! @Positivity curious what did you mean regarding hole saw? (Edit I think I get what you mean, a one piece shroud with opening for fan?
@tightpockt I think you are right regarding shrouds, probably the most efficient way to implement them would be flat to the surface of the fins and sealed off on both sides of the fan. I may have confused the issue by encouraging only a partial shroud in the case of a fan failure. For long heatsinks, this is what I had in mind for a partial:
However, even with fans at 7.5V it works very well without a shroud. Ops is at 12V so I expect plenty of air as is. Probably the main benefit would be that you could run the fans at a much lower fan speed.
@tightpockt I think you are right regarding shrouds, probably the most efficient way to implement them would be flat to the surface of the fins and sealed off on both sides of the fan. I may have confused the issue by encouraging only a partial shroud in the case of a fan failure. For long heatsinks, this is what I had in mind for a partial:
However, even with fans at 7.5V it works very well without a shroud. Ops is at 12V so I expect plenty of air as is. Probably the main benefit would be that you could run the fans at a much lower fan speed.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Thats what I was thinking..hole saws come in sizes just right for a fan. But like you said, quite a bit of air does make its way down the fins without anything
DoctorDelta9
Well-Known Member
I got ya. I can butt those up to the fan and flatten them out, not a problem. Thanks!
HydroDC
Well-Known Member
Another quality DIY build. I think Supra's suggestion about how to use the shrouds is worth following though I think the shroud should cover all of the COBs to the end of the run.
DoctorDelta9
Well-Known Member
That's an idea
You are right. That's why I just built one and posted. Back to the drawing board!
DoctorDelta9
Well-Known Member
OK so now I'm mulling over 2 ideas. I can simple move those shrouds to butt up against the fan, and lay them flush with the fins..
2. Order a new piece of 5.9x52 sheet aluminum and use a hole saw to cut the fan hole. This would be a much more aesthetically pleasing version ( which I don't really care about I want what works the best for heat removal). However the shroud will be sitting about an inch off the fins due to the right of the fan, will this effect my cooling vs being flush with the fins. Enlighten me guys.
2. Order a new piece of 5.9x52 sheet aluminum and use a hole saw to cut the fan hole. This would be a much more aesthetically pleasing version ( which I don't really care about I want what works the best for heat removal). However the shroud will be sitting about an inch off the fins due to the right of the fan, will this effect my cooling vs being flush with the fins. Enlighten me guys.
HydroDC
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I'm saying that if you just move your existing shrouds to butt against the fan, you won't cover the end of the run. I'd cut new shrouds that went from edge of fan to end of heat sink and mount them tight to the fins. Perhaps the same machine screws that hold the drivers in place would be all you need to also hold the shrouds. I'm not too big on the hole saw idea.
cityworker415
Well-Known Member
If any of you DIY guys can learn to TIG weld, there is a very good shot at a low amp spot weld here and there to hold things like shroud or a nice rolled pan with louvers tack,tack. Could be so clean.
.02
Sent from my SM-G900V using Rollitup mobile app
.02
Sent from my SM-G900V using Rollitup mobile app
DoctorDelta9
Well-Known Member
I have used a TIG welder before. Just don't have one, wish I did
dudefromoverseas
Member
Awesome man. The reason besides the realstyles leds why i registered here.
One question, what would be the best color temperature for bloom?
2700k/3000k or
2700k/3000k + 4000k (equal amount blue but more red than 5000k or 6500k) or
2700k/3000k + 5000k.
i plan on building 4 lamps in total with each 4 cobs on it run @ 700mA. I want to build two lamps at once. look how it is and if i like i build 2 more. now i am unsure about the color spectrum i should order.
If i should mix them, and i have 8 cobs i want to buy now, in what ratio should i mix them? and like mentioned before is 4000k better than 5000k in the bloom cause it has more reds and an almost equal amount of blue compared to the 5000k (cree datasheet)
also is there any data available on the 2700k and 6500k leds? the cree datasheet only shows 3000,4000,5000
One question, what would be the best color temperature for bloom?
2700k/3000k or
2700k/3000k + 4000k (equal amount blue but more red than 5000k or 6500k) or
2700k/3000k + 5000k.
i plan on building 4 lamps in total with each 4 cobs on it run @ 700mA. I want to build two lamps at once. look how it is and if i like i build 2 more. now i am unsure about the color spectrum i should order.
If i should mix them, and i have 8 cobs i want to buy now, in what ratio should i mix them? and like mentioned before is 4000k better than 5000k in the bloom cause it has more reds and an almost equal amount of blue compared to the 5000k (cree datasheet)
also is there any data available on the 2700k and 6500k leds? the cree datasheet only shows 3000,4000,5000
DoctorDelta9
Well-Known Member
You can mix and match, but after talking to the guys here and doing a lot of research, 3000k is good for bloom. You can mix in 2700 and 4000 but I wouldn't go higher