how do you decide when it is inappropriate name calling versus something appropriate ?thats nice, stop the name calling its not allowed,
Or just a separate place for the known crap LEDs like SK and Mars and platinum types. So they can all share their one pound per watt Grows.RIU should split the LED forum into 2 sections - make one a DIY section where people would likely be pretty chill, learning how to build a light and researching new components. The other section would be a Commercial light section with no rules - it would turn into a giant poop throwing contest in about 3 minutes, but it would be entertaining as hell. Enter at your own risk, and wear a helmet.
I didn't realize what I had gotten into here, but the Cpt. put everything succinctly above.all posts deleted had name calling in them or quoted
you guys are ridiculous in this led section
same shit everyday new thread[/QUOTE
Thank you for the treat!
How much might one of those bad toys go for? Assembly time can't be too high, which is something every manufacturer desires
There's so much more than efficiency to be considered in the equation and that's where the disconnect lays between some of you and me. I can think of at least one example where 100% efficiency doesn't even come close to matching, let alone doubling, 20% efficiency in terms of production.
The reality that a bunch of you're trying to dismiss is that a majority of people want to save as much money as they can without sacrificing any output. The issue lays with technology. COBS are fairly new to the lighting scene and aren't cheap, where as bulbs have been around since Edison.
Point incase - COB fixtures can't be sold solely on higher efficiencies, not this early in the game, as the cost associated with running softer is cost prohibitive on a commercial level for typical growers. Don't believe me, look at Supra's excel sheets.
@Stephenj37826
If there was no gain in efficiency then why did ~900W of COBS considerably outperform 1000W HID? The same outcome occurred with ~450W of COB against 600W HID.
If I didn't know any better I'd say both sides have trolls and as you know, trolls gotta eat! Gargoyles too but they're nocturnal and I'm not staying up for them.
Okay, so I'll engage you in some serious LED discussion; what do you think the actual observed difference would be in a head to head COB LED vs HID contest, if wattage were kept constant?Difference being you don't see me in the regular lighting section continuously bashing hid do you? They come in this section to piss people off end of story. If they actually took a scientific approach of course I would listen. As usual they disregard any part of the overall equation that doesn't make a good case for their beloved hps. So no I'm not being a troll lol. I speak truth and it can be backed up by science.
Actually you are incorrect on that one. In my design the heatsinks are in an air cooled housing. So the heat is removed through duct work. SoInteresting... I have to disagree with one point above; if the grower is using 6000W in the room to light with, then they'll need to remove 6000W of heat. Even though this is half the HPS value, there shalt remain No Free Lunch.
Need to get some semantics straight; LED or not, watts expended equals heat that needs to be removed. Your air cooled light is a neat trick- bravo!- but it has an effective heat management strategy, the heat didn't just disappear.So yes my above numbers are incorrect. Its closer to a 60% reduction in heat introduced into the grow environment vs air cooled hps
I'd like to know more about this certification process.COB wars.............may the "white" be with you......................... Race to ul/etl certs. is ON
Exactly my point the heat figure I quoted of 3245 watts of heat into the grow area is the actual par watts. Sure the heat still had to be removed by a duct fan my point being too me is it still only takes a couple hundred watts of inline fan power to remove the excess heat from sinks and drivers vs having to move it out with AC. You wont remove 2700+ watts of heat any more efficiently than that. Like I said I would like to know in an air cooled hps setup how many watts of excess heat are removed by the air cooling and how many are removed by the actual AC.Need to get some semantics straight; LED or not, watts expended equals heat that needs to be removed. Your air cooled light is a neat trick- bravo!- but it has an effective heat management strategy, the heat didn't just disappear.
The energy that's turned into photons hits something... and turns back into heat. If it hits a leaf, the plant is likely to transpire water to shed that heat- but it's still there, albeit now in a different form, for your environmental control system to deal with.
The idea that watts magically disappear when running LED is incorrect and it's going to get people in trouble as they scale their grows up beyond tent or bedroom size.
To put it another way; the Kill-A-Watt measures actual watts drawn from the outlet. It is also measuring the actual amount of heat that has to be shed, no matter what the distribution between heat and photons might be. I don't care if we're talking about CFL, HPS, COB LED- or my toaster.
I can not give you watt or btu #'s but I can tell you for a fact that a 1000W Air cooled hps with the ballast mounter outside the grow space contributes less heat to the grow area than my 465W Inda-gro with pontoon.Exactly my point the heat figure I quoted of 3245 watts of heat into the grow area is the actual par watts. Sure the heat still had to be removed by a duct fan my point being too me is it still only takes a couple hundred watts of inline fan power to remove the excess heat from sinks and drivers vs having to move it out with AC. You wont remove 2700+ watts of heat any more efficiently than that. Like I said I would like to know in an air cooled hps setup how many watts of excess heat are removed by the air cooling and how many are removed by the actual AC.
Again, I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with your assertion that a few hundred watts of online fans is the ultimate heat removal strategy. It can be done even better than you've done so far, and I plan to prove it to you.Exactly my point the heat figure I quoted of 3245 watts of heat into the grow area is the actual par watts. Sure the heat still had to be removed by a duct fan my point being too me is it still only takes a couple hundred watts of inline fan power to remove the excess heat from sinks and drivers vs having to move it out with AC. You wont remove 2700+ watts of heat any more efficiently than that. Like I said I would like to know in an air cooled hps setup how many watts of excess heat are removed by the air cooling and how many are removed by the actual AC.