DIY design build throwdown

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
HL has nothing to do with output its for hazardous places like oil refineries, gas stations, etc, where flammable vapors can exist in ambient air.

usually $$$$
Does meanwell make one same spec but for non haz location? I wasn't seeing anything close to the capability, seemed like they went to haz location at about 200w. But I was only searching one site.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
what did you use for a reference flat surface to press them? 4 thousandths in 4" is pretty flat to begin with, thats a little over 1/1000th over the inch and a half the cob sits on. i guess what im getting at is i would expect that pressing a non-flat surface with a perfectly flat surface would result in a still non-flat surface as it would tend to spring back, right? I have a 20 ton HF press, but im thinking about taking my finished drilled and tapped heat sinks to a shop to be milled flat in the cob contact zones
That's (taking it to your buddy) not necessary but certainly easier than the method I use which is capable of getting down in the 1/1000 range. You want to get flatter get what's called a reference stone. You can also use a number of various diamond files specifically for flattening . For clairification flat and smooth are not the same thing.

Side note based on memory recall the artic hs I have were 15-20 thousandths concave with a feeler gauge
 
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BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
catching up on some old posts here

So do you have to run in parallel with these types?
yes
in my quick glance of the spec sheet I would say yes because adj current doesnt start until 4.45amp on the 36v version. On a side note it is a class 1 div 2 classified for hazardous locations (meaning flammable explosive atmosphere) this is an expensive cert to get...
they are not by default. IP65 enclosures is the default. they do make "explosion proof" ones for hazardous locations, but its a (prob super expensive) option
Parallel just shares the total amperage among however many cobs you add righ like hlg-600h-42. With 7 Cobs it would run em at 600ma each?
dont divide the 42V by 7, divide the 14.3A by 7 to get 2.04A. at 2.04A you might as well run the 36V version (16/7/8=2.08A)
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
catching up on some old posts here


yes


they are not by default. IP65 enclosures is the default. they do make "explosion proof" ones for hazardous locations, but its a (prob super expensive) option


dont divide the 42V by 7, divide the 14.3A by 7 to get 2.04A. at 2.04A you might as well run the 36V version (16/7/8=2.08A)
Where this 14 amps from?
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
catching up on some old posts here


yes


they are not by default. IP65 enclosures is the default. they do make "explosion proof" ones for hazardous locations, but its a (prob super expensive) option
)
I think one of us is smoking too much I think we're saying the same thing. the explosion proof would be the div 1 but I'm sayin the div 2 cert which is what the HLs are is also expensive to get while a Class II cert is a lesser cert like this one http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/OWA-60U-spec-806328.pdf
 
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BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
that would be you im sober

but yeah i kinda read the posts in reverse order when replying so it might not make sense
 

kmog33

Well-Known Member
thanks Kmog not knowing how those wires are connected (thanks for using rated wire) if they're not soldered please consider getting some pushin insulated connectors. Cheap insurance available at home depot.
Everything is soldered. Electrical tape over any joints that were exposed. Cobs are wired in parallel. I did some work with audio electronics before my cob light days lol, so I'm pretty ok on my soldering/connections/routing.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
HLG-600, could run 8 cxb3590 36V chips on that, right? Each one gets about 75W? I'm still trying to work out the code, lol
look at the bottom of the first page of the spec sheets it shows you the code, I cant remember it so I always have to look. but yes 8x75=600w
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
below 2.05ish A = 36V 'A' or 'B' version will work

2.05ish to 3.15ish A =36V 'A' version ok(as you need 36.1-37.8V adjustable via built-in pot, 'B' version is not adjustable voltage), 42V 'A' version ok

above 3.15ish A = need 42V 'A' version as you need to be able to adjust to 37.8-38.5V as required (36V 'A' version tops out at 37.8V adjustment, 42V 'A' version adjusts from 35.7 to 44.1V)
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
below 2.05ish A = 36V A or B version will work
above 2.05ish A = need 42V A version as you need to be able to adjust to 36.1-38.5V as required
2.05 x 36 = 73.8W, the B version runs 8% over when the dimming leads are open, would that help?
 
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