Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
increase distance from light to canopy or dimming the power on ballast can help the stretch happen. Also a high n diet causes excessive stretch
According to recent studies its the high phosphorous at the onset of initiating a flowering photoperiod that really exaggerates the "stretch". Much moreso than nitrogen. The spectrum of hps lamps also. You can really keep all but the lankiest of hybrids under control using a low p diet ( keep using a "grow" nutrient for the first couple weeks). A metal halide bulb for those early weeks helps also. But a really effective trick is an old greenhouse grower one. If you can....keep the lights off temp about 3 to 5 degrees warmer than lights on temp. Use these 3 methods....plant stretch is minimal.increase distance from light to canopy or dimming the power on ballast can help the stretch happen. Also a high n diet causes excessive stretch
And DE sucks. LolYou know me tty...iam in the hps camp...still. This whole new lighting (cob) is a different ball game. And your at that frontier. You and a small handful of others are the Lewis and Clark with the new cob stuff. And its about time i say. Only so much you can do with HID lighting. Its old news. Double ended is about as good as it will get with gas pressure lamps.
...or use them in reverse to accentuate stretch, lolAccording to recent studies its the high phosphorous at the onset of initiating a flowering photoperiod that really exaggerates the "stretch". Much moreso than nitrogen. The spectrum of hps lamps also. You can really keep all but the lankiest of hybrids under control using a low p diet ( keep using a "grow" nutrient for the first couple weeks). A metal halide bulb for those early weeks helps also. But a really effective trick is an old greenhouse grower one. If you can....keep the lights off temp about 3 to 5 degrees warmer than lights on temp. Use these 3 methods....plant stretch is minimal.
Ever heard of phosoload? It stops lateral growth. My studies tell me a high nitrogen diet causes excessive spacing between budsAccording to recent studies its the high phosphorous at the onset of initiating a flowering photoperiod that really exaggerates the "stretch". Much moreso than nitrogen. The spectrum of hps lamps also. You can really keep all but the lankiest of hybrids under control using a low p diet ( keep using a "grow" nutrient for the first couple weeks). A metal halide bulb for those early weeks helps also. But a really effective trick is an old greenhouse grower one. If you can....keep the lights off temp about 3 to 5 degrees warmer than lights on temp. Use these 3 methods....plant stretch is minimal.
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Its the paclobutrazol thats in phosphoload thats making your plants stop dead in thier tracks with apical stretch. A known cancer causing artificial growth hormone. And yes....p causes the stretch not nitrogen. High nitrates will make for bendy rubbery shoots yes...low in carbs and starches. But its phosphorous that makes plants stretch in the early bud setting stages of 12-12.Ever heard of phosoload? It stops lateral growth. My studies tell me a high nitrogen diet causes excessive spacing between buds
Ok, so that means I'm gonna put some P in my girls who need to get their grow on, and see how it works.Its the paclobutrazol thats in phosphoload thats making your plants stop dead in thier tracks with apical stretch. A known cancer causing artificial growth hormone. And yes....p causes the stretch not nitrogen. High nitrates will make for bendy rubbery shoots yes...low in carbs and starches. But its phosphorous that makes plants stretch in the early bud setting stages of 12-12.
Honestly i anticipate the stretch myself. I veg in a 7x7 tent with t5 lamps. I aggressively tie down and top just about all my strains to get a nice 18 to 24 inch bush with multiple tops. In 2 or 3 gallon cloth pots. When my canopy is fulfuand packed with leaves and tops under 2 of the t5 lamps i put the bushes in one of the flowering rooms...usually hogging up 2 or 3lamps at a time. The first 2 or 3 weeks...all them multi tops grow straight up and ususally finish at 3 to 3.5 feet. Nice even flat canopy. I try to pack and group same or similar growth habit strains together. Multi strain grows are more difficult for me to keep an even canopy profile...but i tryOk, so that means I'm gonna put some P in my girls who need to get their grow on, and see how it works.
I use dry hydroponic nutrient salts, specifically so that I know precisely what I'm putting on my plants- and just as importantly, what I'm NOT.
Nice. Rockwool blocks? One strain? How many plants per table? Do you top them? What size when you decide to flip? 4x8 tables? Nice canopy.Increasing phosphorus is going to do the opposite you want bro. View attachment 3716278 I have 10 tables like this that I switch to flower every few weeks.
Do you add kelp in late flowering to reservoir...I was looking in to that but it seems Growth Technology Nitrozyme (that's what I have in my cabin) is not recommended in late flower....yep that's what i got taught, i'v tested it myself and it works.
My buds lasted me months longer to smoke, so they was heavier and denser, months longer, i didn't weigh it, but the rock hard.
Ive always did well using nzime as a foliar the first few weeks of the flip....and all through veg....every 4 to 6 days. Spray the shit outta them.Do you add kelp in late flowering to reservoir...I was looking in to that but it seems Growth Technology Nitrozyme (that's what I have in my cabin) is not recommended in late flower....