lets talk yield, .5g to 2.5 grams per watt. how can we get there?

since1991

Well-Known Member
increase distance from light to canopy or dimming the power on ballast can help the stretch happen. Also a high n diet causes excessive stretch
According to recent studies its the high phosphorous at the onset of initiating a flowering photoperiod that really exaggerates the "stretch". Much moreso than nitrogen. The spectrum of hps lamps also. You can really keep all but the lankiest of hybrids under control using a low p diet ( keep using a "grow" nutrient for the first couple weeks). A metal halide bulb for those early weeks helps also. But a really effective trick is an old greenhouse grower one. If you can....keep the lights off temp about 3 to 5 degrees warmer than lights on temp. Use these 3 methods....plant stretch is minimal.
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
You know me tty...iam in the hps camp...still. This whole new lighting (cob) is a different ball game. And your at that frontier. You and a small handful of others are the Lewis and Clark with the new cob stuff. And its about time i say. Only so much you can do with HID lighting. Its old news. Double ended is about as good as it will get with gas pressure lamps.
And DE sucks. Lol

I'm telling you right now; the only thing you'll regret about your COB LED purchase is waiting so long to make it. Fuck the extra cost; it will pay for itself in additional yield and quality in the first run or two!
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
According to recent studies its the high phosphorous at the onset of initiating a flowering photoperiod that really exaggerates the "stretch". Much moreso than nitrogen. The spectrum of hps lamps also. You can really keep all but the lankiest of hybrids under control using a low p diet ( keep using a "grow" nutrient for the first couple weeks). A metal halide bulb for those early weeks helps also. But a really effective trick is an old greenhouse grower one. If you can....keep the lights off temp about 3 to 5 degrees warmer than lights on temp. Use these 3 methods....plant stretch is minimal.
...or use them in reverse to accentuate stretch, lol
 

Slab

Well-Known Member
question for my forward thinking buds.

Anyone ever train a plants side branches back into the mainstem to form one kola?

I did it, funny shit how the lower branch buds fit right into the gaps on the main stem like puzzle pieces.
Mother Nature Must have had some serious SOG style grows going back a few million years.

Just trying to get max out of a sq foot. I like your method Ty. The gains by cubic foot are massive.

Got one bound now, didn't train the lower buds all the way in but they sure as hell do fit perfectly to form one huge fugazi kola.
I trained her within the circumference of a 5 gal pot, my goal is cut to cut in 70 days.
Going to make the timeline, sure as hell not going to get Qp goal though.
 

Chillin chillin

Well-Known Member
According to recent studies its the high phosphorous at the onset of initiating a flowering photoperiod that really exaggerates the "stretch". Much moreso than nitrogen. The spectrum of hps lamps also. You can really keep all but the lankiest of hybrids under control using a low p diet ( keep using a "grow" nutrient for the first couple weeks). A metal halide bulb for those early weeks helps also. But a really effective trick is an old greenhouse grower one. If you can....keep the lights off temp about 3 to 5 degrees warmer than lights on temp. Use these 3 methods....plant stretch is minimal.
Ever heard of phosoload? It stops lateral growth. My studies tell me a high nitrogen diet causes excessive spacing between buds
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Ever heard of phosoload? It stops lateral growth. My studies tell me a high nitrogen diet causes excessive spacing between buds
Its the paclobutrazol thats in phosphoload thats making your plants stop dead in thier tracks with apical stretch. A known cancer causing artificial growth hormone. And yes....p causes the stretch not nitrogen. High nitrates will make for bendy rubbery shoots yes...low in carbs and starches. But its phosphorous that makes plants stretch in the early bud setting stages of 12-12.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Its the paclobutrazol thats in phosphoload thats making your plants stop dead in thier tracks with apical stretch. A known cancer causing artificial growth hormone. And yes....p causes the stretch not nitrogen. High nitrates will make for bendy rubbery shoots yes...low in carbs and starches. But its phosphorous that makes plants stretch in the early bud setting stages of 12-12.
Ok, so that means I'm gonna put some P in my girls who need to get their grow on, and see how it works.

I use dry hydroponic nutrient salts, specifically so that I know precisely what I'm putting on my plants- and just as importantly, what I'm NOT.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Ok, so that means I'm gonna put some P in my girls who need to get their grow on, and see how it works.

I use dry hydroponic nutrient salts, specifically so that I know precisely what I'm putting on my plants- and just as importantly, what I'm NOT.
Honestly i anticipate the stretch myself. I veg in a 7x7 tent with t5 lamps. I aggressively tie down and top just about all my strains to get a nice 18 to 24 inch bush with multiple tops. In 2 or 3 gallon cloth pots. When my canopy is fulfuand packed with leaves and tops under 2 of the t5 lamps i put the bushes in one of the flowering rooms...usually hogging up 2 or 3lamps at a time. The first 2 or 3 weeks...all them multi tops grow straight up and ususally finish at 3 to 3.5 feet. Nice even flat canopy. I try to pack and group same or similar growth habit strains together. Multi strain grows are more difficult for me to keep an even canopy profile...but i try
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
I should rephrase that p causes stretch. All cannabis plants ive grown "stretch" to some degree in early 12 -12. But from what ive found and researched on the web is higher p diets make plants stretch more than if laying off P and more or less easing into high phosphorous a little later in flower. All strian dependent entirely of course. But if you have a lanky Sativa based strain that stretches like mad....there are a few techniques one can employ to limit it as much as possible. I grow in a typical 6.5 foot michigan basement. Every inch is valuable real estate for me. Iam all about low and wide with training and canopy management methods in veg. Then iam prepared and actually welcome the early flowering stretch all my varieties seem to put out.
 

Phytium hater

Well-Known Member
yep that's what i got taught, i'v tested it myself and it works.

My buds lasted me months longer to smoke, so they was heavier and denser, months longer, i didn't weigh it, but the rock hard.
Do you add kelp in late flowering to reservoir...I was looking in to that but it seems Growth Technology Nitrozyme (that's what I have in my cabin) is not recommended in late flower....
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Do you add kelp in late flowering to reservoir...I was looking in to that but it seems Growth Technology Nitrozyme (that's what I have in my cabin) is not recommended in late flower....
Ive always did well using nzime as a foliar the first few weeks of the flip....and all through veg....every 4 to 6 days. Spray the shit outta them.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
I use to run old school P.l deep reflectors 600 watters over 3x6 tables with one gallon growbags. 28 plants per. 7x4 row counts. Simple open tube with barbed "t's" instead of drippers.
 
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