DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

Olympus Mons

Well-Known Member
Tap water is fine in my experience but I have a well, not city water. They say you should let it sit out for a day or two so the chlorine will evaporate if that is what you have available. RO is best.

Any mycorrhizae should work but I have only ever used Great White. The most important part of the tea are the beneficial bacteria that grow and multiply in the compost brewing process. The fungi is just a little extra protection.
 

David Music

Active Member
Tap water is fine in my experience but I have a well, not city water. They say you should let it sit out for a day or two so the chlorine will evaporate if that is what you have available. RO is best.

Any mycorrhizae should work but I have only ever used Great White. The most important part of the tea are the beneficial bacteria that grow and multiply in the compost brewing process. The fungi is just a little extra protection.
Sweet I have the bacteria on the way now I had to order on amazon hopefully my babys last that long
 

LeMrMagu

Well-Known Member
Didnt want to start a new thread with just one question, so ill post here insted.
Do you guys think its root rot? Ph 5.8 ppm900 (200water + 700nutes) drinks mostly water, but just slowly, because ppm rise, water lowers. First time hydro after a lot reading and years of soil growin..
 
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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member

http://imgur.com/6CxlQZa

Didnt want to start a new thread with just one question, so ill post here insted.
Do you guys think its root rot? Ph 5.8 ppm900 (200water + 700nutes) drinks mostly water, but just slowly, because ppm rise, water lowers. First time hydro after a lot reading and years of soil growin..
what do roots look like? brown, slimy??

sounds like your nutes are too strong. ppm should go down, pH should go up
 
So Ive been dealing with the slime for months and thought my hydro days were over. I'm now in full recovery and want to share what helped fix the issue. The knowledge I gained on the subject through the forums was priceless, so I want to give back.

First of all, the first thing people say when someone is having root issues is to keep nutrient temperatures cooler. This does play a part and I make sure my reservoirs never go above 72F, but I personally feel that keeping a lower PH helps even more. Studies show that root rot is killed at a PH of 5 or less. Also cyanobacteria is rare at a PH under 5.5, and completely nonexistent in a PH below 5.0. Now that I let my PH drift from 5.0 - 5.5 I have had much better growth. Ive even had my PH get as low as 4.6 for days and saw no negative reactions in the plants. Btw I have an oakton double junction ph tester that I calibrate weekly.

Second of all, Ive found that using Z7 enzymes really helped me recover from slime. It also works very well to keep roots healthy while the plants are still young and vulnerable. Its better if used as a preventative, but can definitely help reverse a problem if you clean out your system, rinse the media and roots in water, and prepare a fresh reservoir with Z7 added last. If you are desperate to save a prized mother or some vegetative plants you can add ridomil to reservoir 24 hours before a change out at 1ml per 10 gallons. Only use ridomil as a last resort, and never on flowering plants.

When cleaning equipment I recommend using the blue Clorox non-bleach spray. It is the same exact ingredients of Physan 20 in a convenient spray, located at any local store. Don't use it on filters or air stones though because its hard to rinse out... only use on hard surfaces. If you had a grow with hydroton that got infected, do not reuse hydroton without rinsing in water and then boiling for 15-30 minutes. You can get a 5 gallon pot at Wallyworld and boil it on your stove. For dirty fittings, let them soak in rubbing alcohol and use a wire brush from homedepot paint section to clean the insides. For hoses, use a long tube brush, mine is about 3 ft. You should clean every component of your system after every use to the point that everything looks brand new again.

Now on to the other factors. Never bring soil plants near your hydro plants. If you accidentally get a little soil in your hydro system it can be HUGE problems and contamination of bad bacteria. Next, make sure you keep your room, house, and yard as bug free as possible. If one of your plants is infected with anything, the bugs will spread it to other plants even if they are in separate systems. If you have an infected plant either throw it away or isolate it, or it will spread. Do not use neem spray or azamax. Neem spray is antibacterial and antifungal and works systemically affecting the whole plant and throws off your beneficial bacteria. Azamax in the reservoir can lead to blocked up lines and slower flow rates. Instead use spinosad spray and microbe lift in the reservoir. Also, keeping co2 levels 800-1200 ppm deters a lot of bugs, and gives plants a growth boost making them more able to fight pests/disease. I recommend using silica in hydroponics (I use protekt 4ml/gal) because silica make leaves/stem stronger and more resistant to pests and disease. It has also been shown in studies of food crops that 100 PPM Silica in the nutrient solution protects roots from rot. Make sure to use at least .5 watts of air pump per gallon, and a beneficial bacteria in your nutrients (I like hydroguard).

Some people may not agree with my recommendations and that's ok, I just wanted to share my experience and possibly help others because this slime can be extremely painful and frustrating to deal with.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
So Ive been dealing with the slime for months and thought my hydro days were over. I'm now in full recovery and want to share what helped fix the issue. The knowledge I gained on the subject through the forums was priceless, so I want to give back.

First of all, the first thing people say when someone is having root issues is to keep nutrient temperatures cooler. This does play a part and I make sure my reservoirs never go above 72F, but I personally feel that keeping a lower PH helps even more. Studies show that root rot is killed at a PH of 5 or less. Also cyanobacteria is rare at a PH under 5.5, and completely nonexistent in a PH below 5.0. Now that I let my PH drift from 5.0 - 5.5 I have had much better growth. Ive even had my PH get as low as 4.6 for days and saw no negative reactions in the plants. Btw I have an oakton double junction ph tester that I calibrate weekly.

Second of all, Ive found that using Z7 enzymes really helped me recover from slime. It also works very well to keep roots healthy while the plants are still young and vulnerable. Its better if used as a preventative, but can definitely help reverse a problem if you clean out your system, rinse the media and roots in water, and prepare a fresh reservoir with Z7 added last. If you are desperate to save a prized mother or some vegetative plants you can add ridomil to reservoir 24 hours before a change out at 1ml per 10 gallons. Only use ridomil as a last resort, and never on flowering plants.

When cleaning equipment I recommend using the blue Clorox non-bleach spray. It is the same exact ingredients of Physan 20 in a convenient spray, located at any local store. Don't use it on filters or air stones though because its hard to rinse out... only use on hard surfaces. If you had a grow with hydroton that got infected, do not reuse hydroton without rinsing in water and then boiling for 15-30 minutes. You can get a 5 gallon pot at Wallyworld and boil it on your stove. For dirty fittings, let them soak in rubbing alcohol and use a wire brush from homedepot paint section to clean the insides. For hoses, use a long tube brush, mine is about 3 ft. You should clean every component of your system after every use to the point that everything looks brand new again.

Now on to the other factors. Never bring soil plants near your hydro plants. If you accidentally get a little soil in your hydro system it can be HUGE problems and contamination of bad bacteria. Next, make sure you keep your room, house, and yard as bug free as possible. If one of your plants is infected with anything, the bugs will spread it to other plants even if they are in separate systems. If you have an infected plant either throw it away or isolate it, or it will spread. Do not use neem spray or azamax. Neem spray is antibacterial and antifungal and works systemically affecting the whole plant and throws off your beneficial bacteria. Azamax in the reservoir can lead to blocked up lines and slower flow rates. Instead use spinosad spray and microbe lift in the reservoir. Also, keeping co2 levels 800-1200 ppm deters a lot of bugs, and gives plants a growth boost making them more able to fight pests/disease. I recommend using silica in hydroponics (I use protekt 4ml/gal) because silica make leaves/stem stronger and more resistant to pests and disease. It has also been shown in studies of food crops that 100 PPM Silica in the nutrient solution protects roots from rot. Make sure to use at least .5 watts of air pump per gallon, and a beneficial bacteria in your nutrients (I like hydroguard).

Some people may not agree with my recommendations and that's ok, I just wanted to share my experience and possibly help others because this slime can be extremely painful and frustrating to deal with.
Sucks to be you... 15 years of Benf. Bacteria in my tanks and NEVER had an issue.
 
Sucks to be you... 15 years of Benf. Bacteria in my tanks and NEVER had an issue.
I had over a decade of success before it hit me... humble yourself, you never know if it could happen to you one day. Like I said I am in full recovery now and just trying to help others. Btw ive used beneficials since day 1 as well.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
I had over a decade of success before it hit me... humble yourself, you never know if it could happen to you one day. Like I said I am in full recovery now and just trying to help others. Btw ive used beneficials since day 1 as well.
Oh Well. Hope you have your poop in a group from here on out.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
As I see it there are 2 ''guru's'' connected to brewing tea for preventing and curing slime..... Heisenberg and Richyrich.
I have no idea who came up with the idea first, and as a matter of fact I don't care.
They both did some wonderful writing and research.

Their recipes look very similar, but there is one thing that they seem not to agree on.
In Richyrich' recipe you will find the instructions to add 1.25mL of Roots Excelurator per Gallon water.
Heisenberg says to avoid Roots Excelurator.

Who is right, and why?
They both look like people who know what they are talking about.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
I found an interesting article from the University of Alaska Fairbanks.
They state the following...

Compost Teas and Mycorrhizal Fungi The process of making compost tea involves steeping high quality compost in highly aerated water, and mycorrhizal fungi would not likely survive the process. AM fungi exhibit very limited growth independent from their host plant, so they would likely not survive in a bucket of compost tea without access to a living host.

AND

Furthermore, AM fungi are root-colonizing organisms that thrive underground and away from sunlight, so application by spraying compost tea on plant leaves or the surface of the soil does not put the fungi in close enough contact with the plant roots for fungal survival. All of these characteristics would, ultimately, inhibit survival of mycorrhizal fungi in compost tea and make it an unsuitable method of inoculation.

So this is in total contradiction as what Heisenberg, Richyrich and others say.
The writer is from a university, so I guess he is not talking total nonsense or that it is just an assumption.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
I found an interesting article from the University of Alaska Fairbanks.
They state the following...

Compost Teas and Mycorrhizal Fungi The process of making compost tea involves steeping high quality compost in highly aerated water, and mycorrhizal fungi would not likely survive the process. AM fungi exhibit very limited growth independent from their host plant, so they would likely not survive in a bucket of compost tea without access to a living host.

AND

Furthermore, AM fungi are root-colonizing organisms that thrive underground and away from sunlight, so application by spraying compost tea on plant leaves or the surface of the soil does not put the fungi in close enough contact with the plant roots for fungal survival. All of these characteristics would, ultimately, inhibit survival of mycorrhizal fungi in compost tea and make it an unsuitable method of inoculation.

So this is in total contradiction as what Heisenberg, Richyrich and others say.
The writer is from a university, so I guess he is not talking total nonsense or that it is just an assumption.
Trump HAD a University .. Take that for what it's worth. I like staying with WORKING Knowledge. I see for my self how an application works or not.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
The university of Alaska is something completely different then the one of Trump.
Let's stay serious please.

Working knowledge is great, but science is something else, and if done properly, more reliable.
There are also people who use dowsing rods or divining rods to search for water and are pretty sure they work.
But science says difference.
You can see something work, but with complex brew like the tea, there are so many ingredients, that it is for us normal people hard to tell what did the actual magic.

http://www.uaf.edu/files/ces/publications-db/catalog/anr/HGA-00026.pdf
 
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Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
so they would likely not survive in a bucket of compost tea without access to a living host.
Yeah, ya gotta bet the farm with a term like "Would likely not." True Science at work! That's in the relm of, who knows? Fuck I don't know.... maybe... There's a chance.. Well i'll be damned! Science, always on the move.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
Did some research and there are more sources that state that adding Mycorrhizal Fungi in your brew is useless.

Even Heisenberg himself says somewhere (#2097) to add ZHO (also Mycorrhizal Fungi) after 46 hours of brewing.
What I don't understand is why he starts the brewing with either GW or Mycogrow.
Is this because of the bacteria that are also in these products (besides the fungi) ?
 

DrCannaPath

Well-Known Member
Did some research and there are more sources that state that adding Mycorrhizal Fungi in your brew is useless.

Even Heisenberg himself says somewhere (#2097) to add ZHO (also Mycorrhizal Fungi) after 46 hours of brewing.
What I don't understand is why he starts the brewing with either GW or Mycogrow.
Is this because of the bacteria that are also in these products (besides the fungi) ?
Hey buddy and thanks for contributing here and getting our minds stimulated. You are right. Its because those 2 products are diverse when it comes to microorganisms. Its not just the mycos we want them all ... all the beneficial microorganisms thatll help combat or at least compete with those nasties ... actually, and when it comes to combating pythium, you get those trichodermas with Great white (not sure about other products) that work wonders especially against those nasty fungi. I also did a search to see the trichodermas effect on powdery mildew when applied topically on the leaves, and it too wasnt beneficial.
The compost tea works amazingly at preventing and even combating root zone problems .... they also help when it comes nutrient solution temps. Temps can be more forgiving when applying the tea as you can allow it to go up to mid 70s or even a bit higher without issues :-)
I utilized the tea all through my hydro runs for 4 year or so and now I use it with my organic runs
Happy growin bro :-)

Check out my current Organic Fruit Garden:
https://www.rollitup.org/index.php?threads/945580/
and my previous Organic Run:
https://www.rollitup.org/index.php?threads/930415/
and my previous QuadStrain grow ;-) :
https://www.rollitup.org/index.php?threads/916619/
and my previous TriStrain grow ;-) :
https://www.rollitup.org/index.php?threads/883569/
 
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