Sickplayer13
New Member
Thanks Vertical Grow.
I'm think about to get a 150w heatsink, it's a little bit bigger, but is quite than a fan.
Thanks brow
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
I'm think about to get a 150w heatsink, it's a little bit bigger, but is quite than a fan.
Thanks brow
john073
Well-Known Member
Good Day, Everyone
I have a quick question that i am not sure about.
I have a vero 29 se array led one of the 80w ones that pull 2.1A if i remember correct at 36.6v.
If i have a ac / dc power supply that it lets say 350w and it puts out 9A more or less on 36.6v.
If i put only 1 led onto that power supply will it only pull the 2.1A or will it pull everything that it can take from there?
Thanks
I have a quick question that i am not sure about.
I have a vero 29 se array led one of the 80w ones that pull 2.1A if i remember correct at 36.6v.
If i have a ac / dc power supply that it lets say 350w and it puts out 9A more or less on 36.6v.
If i put only 1 led onto that power supply will it only pull the 2.1A or will it pull everything that it can take from there?
Thanks
john073
Well-Known Member
Good Day, Everyone
Can someone possibly explain to me what the difference is between the following 2 led drivers.
HLG-320H-C and HLG-320H
Then i see that some sites sell the HLG-320H-C2100B which is rated for voltage 76 ~ 152 V but they put 50v vero 29 se array cobs on that, isnt that voltage to much for the cobs or will those only be used for the veros with the higher 70v requirement?
Thanks
Can someone possibly explain to me what the difference is between the following 2 led drivers.
HLG-320H-C and HLG-320H
Then i see that some sites sell the HLG-320H-C2100B which is rated for voltage 76 ~ 152 V but they put 50v vero 29 se array cobs on that, isnt that voltage to much for the cobs or will those only be used for the veros with the higher 70v requirement?
Thanks
boilingoil
Well-Known Member
Those are just the double row strips in 1 foot lengths they'll take the same as the single row 560 mm strips so 24V @ 1.2 A.
Thanks for the Quick answer !
Do you maybe know how much watt each strip pulls? At 24v and 1.2a
boilingoil
Well-Known Member
Series wiring uses the total voltage of all leds added together while the amperage will stay the same.
Parallel wiring the voltage stay constant and the Amperage is divided between the number of leds used.
boilingoil
Well-Known Member
Multiple the voltage times the amperage to get your numbers. So 24Vx1.12A = 26.88 watts.
I run my 560mm strips at 24V between 1 and 1.1 amps max. so I have 9-10 strips per HLG240H24B
shimbob
Well-Known Member
The led will pull everything it can until it fries and the magic smoke escapes.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
That's not so easy to understand but I'll try my best.
The first difference is one is marked as CC or constant current and the other is marked with CV/CC, means it can work in constant voltage "or" in constant current mode. When connected to LEDs directly it will work in CC mode as long as you stay within its constant current region.(datasheet)
The CC version in your example has 76-152v this means it would work with 2 or 3 50v COBs connected in series or with 2-4 36v COBs but it would start flashing when you try it with only one or more then 3pcs 50v COBs(same with less than 2 or more than 4pcs 36v COBs). A CC driver always requires a series or series-parallel connection(voltage is added). When you connect LEDs to such a driver the forward voltage must fall in the min/max. voltage range of the driver.
The CV/CC version for 50v COBs would be HLG-320H-54(A or B). These drivers always requires parallel connetions and the current is shared/divided by the number of connected COBs and each COB must have the same voltage. In this case the driver has 5,9A and with 3 COBs in parallel each COB would run with ~1,96amps. When you connect LEDs directly the "constant current region" mentioned in the datasheet applies, in this case 27-54v and the LEDs forward voltage has to be in this range.
The Vero29SE datasheet says 36,6v at 2,1A is the sweet spot but its maximum is 4,2A and ~38 or 39v. Note, forward voltage always depends on current flow. The more current the higher the required voltage and vice versa.
The needed CV/CC driver would be the HLG-320H-42(A or B) because it has a CC area of 21-42v. With this driver is possible to run the COB at his limits but its also possible to destroy him because you can go above his 4,2A limit when you set the voltage above 40v.
When you use the HLG-320H-36(CC area 18-36V) but only one COB the drivers maximum voltage would also limit the current flow.(We know both is related to each other) Only if you ramp up his voltage to its maximum using the left voltage regulator(39v) you can go above its maximum current; the only difference is above 36v the driver switch to CV mode. This means you can use the voltage poti also to limit the current flow!
If you connect a multimeter to the dc circuit(set to read the voltage of the dc circuit) and you set it precise to 36,6v the COB would get its 2,1A. If you ramp the voltage up to ~38v it would be ~4,2a and if you set only 35v he would run with maybe 1,4a.
You need to set the correct voltage only one time and past this you can use the current regulator(right one) for dimming. But this only works with the A or AB version, the B version has no voltage regulator and can not go above 36v. If you use the B version the COB would get 36v max. and takes only 1,8 or 1,9amps.
As you can see, the HLG-320H is not the best solution for a single Vero29d. How much watt you need at least? Can you order a few more Vero29s?
For a single COB I would recommend to use the HLG-80H-36A(2,2amps, max. 85w) or the HLG-120H-36A(3,3A) if you want to slightly over drive him to ~125w.(better heatsink required)
The harder you drive LEDs the more efficiency gets lost. Better efficiency means you get more light or you need less energy to get the same light.
If you would use more COB's you can use a bigger driver or can drive them softer to get better efficiency.
The HLG-320H is usually recommended for 4-6 COB's driven at 50-75w.
Last edited:
PilouPilou
Well-Known Member
Hi guys!
I write my question here even if it's not quite the same subject thant this thread.
I wanted to use 2020 Aluminium profile for my new light (same kind than Timbergrowlight with driver on the frame) but a friend of mine that is electrician told me that it's dangerous because there is anodization and the frame is insulated: what do you think about that? Finding non-anodized 2020 profile seems to be pretty difficult here in Europe!
Cheers!
I write my question here even if it's not quite the same subject thant this thread.
I wanted to use 2020 Aluminium profile for my new light (same kind than Timbergrowlight with driver on the frame) but a friend of mine that is electrician told me that it's dangerous because there is anodization and the frame is insulated: what do you think about that? Finding non-anodized 2020 profile seems to be pretty difficult here in Europe!
Cheers!
Maybe some strip Expert around
When you use Samsung strips h-series 1foot(h282b) 3500k
The Datashed says 22.5v .
So iam right with this following math;
1 strip at 300mA= 6,7w / 400mA= 9w / 700mA pulls 15,3v / 900mA=20.2w
24 strips at:
300mA = 160,8w
400mA = 216w
700mA = 367,2w
900mA = 484,8w
When you use Samsung strips h-series 1foot(h282b) 3500k
The Datashed says 22.5v .
So iam right with this following math;
1 strip at 300mA= 6,7w / 400mA= 9w / 700mA pulls 15,3v / 900mA=20.2w
24 strips at:
300mA = 160,8w
400mA = 216w
700mA = 367,2w
900mA = 484,8w
Grow for fun only
Well-Known Member
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Hey, PP!
No panic.
Only the surface is anodized not the whole profile. If you drill a small hole to connect the ground wire it works perfectly fine. Only make sure to use standard iron/steal screws and no black anodized alu screws.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
You have exactly described what a dimmer does, mate. What else should happen with the energy? If the driver would always pull the same amount of power nobody would use a dimmer...
Grow for fun only
Well-Known Member
Electrical things upgraded fast every year.
ANC
Well-Known Member
The datasheet for your driver will have a graph showing its efficiency VS output...