DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Yes

Hi exoticcloud yes it says you can set all the sunrise sunset and at the end of 12 on I think u can set it for a far red 15 min. I think??? Hey if anyone interested in trading 2 inventronics EUD-240-320dt 107 vts max 2.8 amps max 3 in one dimming... I need some mean well drivers
Why dont you want them? They are damn near as efficient as meanwells.and have more control as far as dimming and settings.
 
The prices for these ain't bad I think my buddy gave me these
I was just seeking for some in Europe and they were almost same if not more expensive than meanwell, but maybe I was looking at wrong models/I want to drive 5veros 29s 36v per driver 1750ma or 4 on 2100, but I think that would be maybe too much for arctic 64plus fans), If you have some links I would appreciate sharing :)
 

chatoo123

Well-Known Member
I was just seeking for some in Europe and they were almost same if not more expensive than meanwell, but maybe I was looking at wrong models/I want to drive 5veros 29s 36v per driver 1750ma or 4 on 2100, but I think that would be maybe too much for arctic 64plus fans), If you have some links I would appreciate sharing :)
I use arctic Alpine 11 plus for my Vero 29 se's up to 2100 ma and they just barely get warm
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
I was just seeking for some in Europe and they were almost same if not more expensive than meanwell, but maybe I was looking at wrong models/I want to drive 5veros 29s 36v per driver 1750ma or 4 on 2100, but I think that would be maybe too much for arctic 64plus fans), If you have some links I would appreciate sharing :)
If you can get meanwells get them. I wouldnt buy inventronics ig I had the choice. Bc to adjust them is a pain. Without the programmer and software. Some models you can dim with an audio pot and resistor. But only certain models. @The Dawg has one he dimmed. But I believe his is a euc model. Eug models need the programmer.
 
If you can get meanwells get them. I wouldnt buy inventronics ig I had the choice. Bc to adjust them is a pain. Without the programmer and software. Some models you can dim with an audio pot and resistor. But only certain models. @The Dawg has one he dimmed. But I believe his is a euc model. Eug models need the programmer.
The programmer which cost about 40usd, somebody posted it here, is it hard to control them with that? I was mainly interested because of the advanced dimming options like sunrise/sunset
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
The programmer which cost about 40usd, somebody posted it here, is it hard to control them with that? I was mainly interested because of the advanced dimming options like sunrise/sunset
No man its super simple. I posted the link for it. 35 bucks plus shipping. The software is free. It's simple plug n play. The sunrise setup is very easy. It's worth the 35 bucks to be able to use it. Instead of spending more on a different driver. Of you have the euc you can atleast dim it the way dawg did. Audio pot and a resistor
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Can anyone help me figure this out?

I'm assuming this is wired as 12 sets of 3 series ("3B12C-36V LED" printed on the board, and you can see several groups of 3 LEDs that look like they are wired in series if you tilt the board and catch the glare off the indentions, but maybe I'm wrong)?

2835's are typically rated 3.0v, .2w, 66ma?
So this would be a 9v, .8A (66ma x 12 = 800ma), or 7.2w QB? If the actual wall draw is 30w, is my amperage 3.33A (277ma/LED)? I'm trying to figure out what I should drive it at, and subsequently then how many I'd need, so I'd finally know what meanwell driver I'd want.

I'm thinking of using aluminium stripping or channel with some heat sinks on the back. They are run @ 30w without a heatsink (other than its non vented case). Wattage falls to 80-87% (25w-27.5w) of its rating after it heats up.

I added pics of the built-in driver it came with if that helps to determine what to drive these at??? Thanks

The 110VAC 30w LED array...
1215180807~2.jpg 1215180735.jpg
1215180741.jpg 1215180909.jpg


The driver...
1215180742~3.jpg 1215180821~2.jpg
1215180754~2.jpg 1215180743c~2.jpg
1215180755~2.jpg 1215180746~2.jpg
 
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whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Can anyone help me figure this out?

I'm assuming this is wired as 12 sets of 3 series ("3B12C-36V LED")? 2835's are typically rated 3.0v, .2w, 166ma? So this would be a 9v, 2A (166ma x 12 = 1992ma), or 18w QB? If the actual wall draw is 30w, is my amperage 3.33A (277ma/LED)? I'm trying to figure out what I should drive them at, and subsequently then how many I'd need, so I'd finally know what meanwell driver I'd want.

I'm thinking of using aluminium stripping or channel with some heat sinks on the back. They are run @ 30w without a heatsink (other than its non vented case). Wattage falls to 80-87% (25w-27.5w) of its rating after it heats up.

I added pics of the built-in driver it came with if that helps to determine what to drive these at??? Thanks

The 110VAC 30w LED array...
View attachment 4249541 View attachment 4249534
View attachment 4249535


The driver...
View attachment 4249536 View attachment 4249545
View attachment 4249537 View attachment 4249538
View attachment 4249539 View attachment 4249540

I did the samething with 2 100watt 5k and 65k led corncob bulbs. And desoldered them. And took them apart. And mounted them on a sheet of aluminum and mounted some cheap Chinese heatsinks from ebay on the back. But I reused the drivers from the original light. With all the strips on the same surface. @16" its putting off 40k lumen. Measuring with a super cheap ebay meter. Not sure if it's very accurate. But the panel will absolutely blind you. Gonna use it for babies, seedlings, and clones more than likely. I didnt use the 2 end caps that have LEDs on them.

20181208_182411.jpg
20181208_154622.jpg 20181208_154629.jpg 20181208_154653.jpg 20181208_154720.jpg 20181208_154738.jpg 20181208_154812.jpg
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I did the samething with 2 100watt 5k and 65k led corncob bulbs. And desoldered them. And took them apart. And mounted them on a sheet of aluminum and mounted some cheap Chinese heatsinks from ebay on the back. But I reused the drivers from the original light. With all the strips on the same surface. @16" its putting off 40k lumen. Measuring with a super cheap ebay meter. Not sure if it's very accurate. But the panel will absolutely blind you. Gonna use it for babies, seedlings, and clones more than likely. I didnt use the 2 end caps that have LEDs on them.

View attachment 4249555
View attachment 4249548 View attachment 4249549 View attachment 4249550 View attachment 4249551 View attachment 4249552 View attachment 4249553
I just figured they were prolly being over driven. I got enough of them to not have to worry about how many I use, so I was curious what the max efficacy I could get, and then also if I could eliminate the power drop by using better heatsinks.

Nice MacGruber skills :fire::bigjoint:
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
This might be wishful thinking, but could they be similar to these?...
Screenshot_2018-12-15-09-47-30~2.png Screenshot_2018-12-15-09-43-22~2.png
It would make more sense for a 30w array wired in 12 sets of 3 to have 6v diodes and run @ 120ma (26 w). At 120ma, voltage would be 6.8 according to the graph, or 29.376w, pretty close to the 30w rating...

Also my 15% wattage drop could correlate with these temps???...
Screenshot_2018-12-15-09-45-00~2.png
 
No man its super simple. I posted the link for it. 35 bucks plus shipping. The software is free. It's simple plug n play. The sunrise setup is very easy. It's worth the 35 bucks to be able to use it. Instead of spending more on a different driver. Of you have the euc you can atleast dim it the way dawg did. Audio pot and a resistor
so with the programmer these drivers are as good and as easy to dimm as the meanwells? would you please give me recommendation on which driver to choose, got 15 veros 29Cs 36V, want to drive them at 1750 or 2100ma origanally I wanted to buy 3x hlg 320h 1750, 5 cobs per each or hlg 480h
I would be very happy If you can help me I want to buy drivers for these cobs for a very long time but I had problems with it
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
so with the programmer these drivers are as good and as easy to dimm as the meanwells? would you please give me recommendation on which driver to choose, got 15 veros 29Cs 36V, want to drive them at 1750 or 2100ma origanally I wanted to buy 3x hlg 320h 1750, 5 cobs per each or hlg 480h
I would be very happy If you can help me I want to buy drivers for these cobs for a very long time but I had problems with it
Heres a video showing how to dim them with the software. Do you already have the driver, or are you still needing to buy one?
 
Heres a video showing how to dim them with the software. Do you already have the driver, or are you still needing to buy one?
no I dont have one Im about to buy some and I wanted your help with it, :
would you please give me recommendation on which driver to choose, got 15 veros 29Cs 36V, want to drive them at 1750 or 2100ma origanally I wanted to buy 3x hlg 320h 1750, 5 cobs per each or hlg 480h
I would be very happy If you can help me I want to buy drivers for these cobs for a very long time but I had problems with it
forgot to tell you that the heatsinks are arctics 64plus active cooled fans
that vid looks nice and simple, now It got me thinking, would I need one programmer per driver or can I somehow connect for example two drivers and control them with one same schedule?
the best option would be for me to connect all the drivers to one programmer and then select the driver one for example through app, set it and then move to driver nr 2 and so on but I bet thats not possible
 
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whytewidow

Well-Known Member
no I dont have one Im about to buy some and I wanted your help with it, :
would you please give me recommendation on which driver to choose, got 15 veros 29Cs 36V, want to drive them at 1750 or 2100ma origanally I wanted to buy 3x hlg 320h 1750, 5 cobs per each or hlg 480h
I would be very happy If you can help me I want to buy drivers for these cobs for a very long time but I had problems with it
forgot to tell you that the heatsinks are arctics 64plus active cooled fans
How are you wanting to wire them? Series, parallel, or series parallel? Being 15 an odd number. You could do series parallel. 3 groups of 5. You'll have to give me a little bit. To look at the datasheet fir those cobs. Idk anything about them. I understand you want to run them at 1750-2100mA. But if that's not about where they are the most efficient you may not want to run them at those currents. Unless you've already looked at the data sheet. But give me afew to Google the datasheet. Do you have the part # for your cobs?
 
How are you wanting to wire them? Series, parallel, or series parallel? Being 15 an odd number. You could do series parallel. 3 groups of 5. You'll have to give me a little bit. To look at the datasheet fir those cobs. Idk anything about them. I understand you want to run them at 1750-2100mA. But if that's not about where they are the most efficient you may not want to run them at those currents. Unless you've already looked at the data sheet. But give me afew to Google the datasheet. Do you have the part # for your cobs?
my apologies for making it harder for you than it should be b, the part nr is :
BXCR-30E10K0-D-73, BXCR-50E10K1-D74
wanted to wire them in series,
I was thinking about buying more in future, I wanted to split them to run them 5 per driver with maybe some small gap which I can fill in future with another cobs or 10 flower and 5veg so three lights with three drivers or two lights with two drivers. If I would get around decent efficiency I would not mind, nothing is perfect .Thank you very much for your help I really appreciate it.
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
@exoticcloud I would run 5 cobs per driver. Gives you room to add another cob to each driver. In the same wiring setup without changing your wiring. Run (3) Hlg-480h-2100a 5 cobs per driver. Pushing 378 watts per set of 5. For 1134 watts total 36vdc @2100mA and that's running them typ V. Running in parallel for ease of hookup.

Edit: and using the 480h driver. Gives you room still if you decided to wanted to add some strips for extra lighting. You could run them in sets of parallel then wired in series to the driver. So cut the current in half going in. Which would be 1050mA. Which would be great for some far reds, or deep reds. And you have enough room to add some to each driver. You could section it off. In three sections. Section one 5 cobs and day 10 660nm reds. And the same for section 2 and 3. Or use different wave lengths if you wanted instead of reds. You could cut essentially anything bc you have either 1050mA or 2100mA left to play with on each driver. And your still not pushing the drivers hard.
 
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@exoticcloud I would run 5 cobs per driver. Gives you room to add another cob to each driver. In the same wiring setup without changing your wiring. Run (3) Hlg-480h-2100a 5 cobs per driver. Pushing 378 watts per set of 5. For 1134 watts total 36vdc @2100mA and that's running them typ V. Running in parallel for ease of hookup.

Edit: and using the 480h driver. Gives you room still if you decided to wanted to add some strips for extra lighting. You could run them in sets of parallel then wired in series to the driver. So cut the current in half going in. Which would be 1050mA. Which would be great for some far reds, or deep reds. And you have enough room to add some to each driver. You could section it off. In three sections. Section one 5 cobs and day 10 660nm reds. And the same for section 2 and 3. Or use different wave lengths if you wanted instead of reds. You could cut essentially anything bc you have either 1050mA or 2100mA left to play with on each driver. And your still not pushing the drivers hard.
Thx for the help Im wondering if these meanwells are dimmable just like inventronics with programmer sunrise/sunset? I really liked that inventronics interface and programmer setup, is one programmer needed per driver or can you use two drivers which are on same schedule, btw do you think the inventronics drivers would are going for cheaper,? I have checked some european suppliers and found out that some costs same as MW? which is really strange, somebody said here that they are lot cheaper, maybe I was checking out wrong source, where did you bought yours, from eurocomposant fr?
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Thx for the help Im wondering if these meanwells are dimmable just like inventronics with programmer sunrise/sunset? I really liked that inventronics interface and programmer setup, is one programmer needed per driver or can you use two drivers which are on same schedule, btw do you think the inventronics drivers would are going for cheaper,? I have checked some european suppliers and found out that some costs same as MW? which is really strange, somebody said here that they are lot cheaper, maybe I was checking out wrong source, where did you bought yours, from eurocomposant fr?
No problem. You only need to buy one programmer. You can program 100s with one programmer. Once you program the driver you unhook it. And it holds the memory of whatever settings you set. Then if you wanna change it at some point. You unhook the power from the driver. Hook up your programmer. Adjust it. Unhook. Power it back up.
 
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