Fixing root rot: Hydroguard v Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide

[macsnax]

I know man, that is a bummer. Good luck moving forward, I'm sure you will be on top of the rot after all this .

 

[R.Raider]

I've used chlorine at higher concentrations to kill pythium and then used hydroguard afterwards to keep it gone.

I've tried sag, hydroguard, Piranha, hygrozome and h2o2.

The Piranha at least helped but the others did nothing. Think I'll start using h2o2 as a preventive in the future though.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

Ok I see. It does seem kind of odd that cuttings with no roots yet would just automatically have pythium, just because the moms do.

people refer to root rot as "pythium", but in reality, there are dozens of pathogens that cause it, some of them are systemic, and some are not....Pythium isn't actually systemic....it's a parasitic fungus that lives in soil and eats plant roots from the inside out...so is Armillaria, and phytophthora cactorum. these aren't systemic, and can usually be gotten rid of with peroxide, bleach, or fungicide.
burkholderia, xanthomonas and pseudomonas are bacteria that can cause root rot. if you have one of these, they ARE systemic, and will infect any clones you take...
the good news is you're much more likely to have one of the fungal causes than one of the bacterial causes. the bad news is, you need to clean the shit out of your room, which ever it is....

 

[R.Raider]

I know man, that is a bummer. Good luck moving forward, I'm sure you will be on top of the rot after all this .

I will be watching my roots obsessively for now on.

 

[R.Raider]

the bad news is, you need to clean the shit out of your room, which ever it is....

Oh believe me I plan too.

K so maybe I'll keep moving forward with my cuts for now but I'll plant some new seeds today as well just in case. By the time my seedlings are old enough to take cuttings from I should know by then if my cuts are infected.

I'll be extra careful and sure not to cross contaminate in the mean time.

 

[Jefferson1977]

I've tried sag, hydroguard, Piranha, hygrozome and h2o2.

The Piranha at least helped but the others did nothing. Think I'll start using h2o2 as a preventive in the future though.

Nothing except high levels of chlorine worked to kill the infection for me.

 

[R.Raider]

Nothing except high levels of chlorine worked to kill the infection for me.

I've been working on this so long that I'm at the giving up stage and starting all over.

Just out curiosity though what brand of chlorine did you use and how much? I threw all my infected plants out into flowering today and just gonna try to make the most of them while I work on cleaning, disinfecting and getting fresh plants going in my veg area.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

I've been working on this so long that I'm at the giving up stage and starting all over.

Just out curiosity though what brand of chlorine did you use and how much? I threw all my infected plants out into flowering today and just gonna try to make the most of them while I work on cleaning, disinfecting and getting fresh plants going in my veg area.

pool shock works, and so does non perfumed, plain bleach. 2 grams of pool shock in a gallon of water makes a stock solution, you use 20 ml or so every couple of days to keep things sterile, may use it daily for a few days as a "shock treatment" to knock it down to begin with. 4 to 1 makes a stock solution from liquid bleach, i put 20 ml in a 100 ml beaker, fill it with ro water,and use that as my stock solution, at the same rate as you use the pool shock solution

 

[Jefferson1977]

I've been working on this so long that I'm at the giving up stage and starting all over.

Just out curiosity though what brand of chlorine did you use and how much? I threw all my infected plants out into flowering today and just gonna try to make the most of them while I work on cleaning, disinfecting and getting fresh plants going in my veg area.

If you want to do it by the book you need an ORP (oxidation-Reduction Potential) meter and a reading (concentration of chlorine in water) of 680 mV or higher. I used calcium (note: not sodium) hypochlorite (aka pool shock from Canadian Tire). I did not use a meter, I did a rough estimation of PPM using the below formula I found.

I have some calcium hypochlorite (pool shock) that says 49% available chlorine. How much do I add to get 2 ppm of chlorine to a 100 gallon reservoir?

To figure for 2 ppm of TOTAL chlorine is simple.

Remember 1mg/L = 1 ppm

So 2 ppm would be 2 mg per liter of water.

100 gallons = 378.5 liters. So 378.5 x 2 = 757 mg

But its only 49 percent strong. So 757/.49=1545 mg or 1.545 g

Then I adjusted that formula to above 2 PPM free chlorine.

Research by the University of Guelph found that 0.3 to 2 ppm free chlorine killed zoospores of three Pythium species, with a 3 to 6 minute contact time. However, 14 and 12 ppm chlorine was required to control Fusarium oxysporum and Rhizoctonia solani with a 10 or 6 minute contact time, respectively.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=2ahUKEwjlgPfa1I7hAhXHjVkKHW7hCqEQFjABegQIBxAE&url=https://www.plantgrower.org/uploads/6/5/5/4/65545169/chlorine_for_water_treatment.doc&usg=AOvVaw28AnzfZJkNrxe-g90vKVwY

And I kept the ORP (free chlorine if you don't have a meter) up until I started to see white roots again.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

If you want to do it by the book you need an ORP (oxidation-Reduction Potential) meter and a reading (concentration of chlorine in water) of 680 mV or higher. I used calcium (note: not sodium) hypochlorite (aka pool shock from Canadian Tire). I did not use a meter, I did a rough estimation of PPM using the below formula I found.




Then I adjusted that formula to above 2 PPM free chlorine.


And I kept the ORP (free chlorine if you don't have a meter) up until I started to see white roots again.

i find it interesting that they mention 3 species of pythium and fusarium and rhizoctonia....told you...many causes of root rot...pythium has just become a name for the condition....

 

[R.Raider]

If you want to do it by the book you need an ORP (oxidation-Reduction Potential) meter and a reading (concentration of chlorine in water) of 680 mV or higher. I used calcium (note: not sodium) hypochlorite (aka pool shock from Canadian Tire). I did not use a meter, I did a rough estimation of PPM using the below formula I found.




Then I adjusted that formula to above 2 PPM free chlorine.


And I kept the ORP (free chlorine if you don't have a meter) up until I started to see white roots again.

Can't lie, I'm kind of stoned right now lol. So long story short I would add 1.545 g per 100 gallons? That sounds like such a small amount for that much water.

 

[R.Raider]

i find it interesting that they mention 3 species of pythium and fusarium and rhizoctonia....told you...many causes of root rot...pythium has just become a name for the condition....

I figured their was many causes of root rot. I assume that's the reason why some stuff works for some people and not for others.

 

[rkymtnman]

I've been working on this so long that I'm at the giving up stage and starting all over.

Just out curiosity though what brand of chlorine did you use and how much? I threw all my infected plants out into flowering today and just gonna try to make the most of them while I work on cleaning, disinfecting and getting fresh plants going in my veg area.

before you do that, is it possible to buy a few cans of insect fogger and fog your room first? make sure you got rid of the fungus gnats first.

and i would definitely try to take clones. worst thing that happens is that they get rot and it would save you time from starting from seeds

 

[macsnax]

people refer to root rot as "pythium", but in reality, there are dozens of pathogens that cause it, some of them are systemic, and some are not....Pythium isn't actually systemic....it's a parasitic fungus that lives in soil and eats plant roots from the inside out...so is Armillaria, and phytophthora cactorum. these aren't systemic, and can usually be gotten rid of with peroxide, bleach, or fungicide.
burkholderia, xanthomonas and pseudomonas are bacteria that can cause root rot. if you have one of these, they ARE systemic, and will infect any clones you take...
the good news is you're much more likely to have one of the fungal causes than one of the bacterial causes. the bad news is, you need to clean the shit out of your room, which ever it is....

I keep learning from this thread. Good info man.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

before you do that, is it possible to buy a few cans of insect fogger and fog your room first? make sure you got rid of the fungus gnats first.

and i would definitely try to take clones. worst thing that happens is that they get rot and it would save you time from starting from seeds

yeah...fungus gnats are prime vectors for spreading the many types of fungus in planters, both beneficial, and not so much.

 

[Roger A. Shrubber]

I keep learning from this thread. Good info man.

me too....

 

[R.Raider]

before you do that, is it possible to buy a few cans of insect fogger and fog your room first? make sure you got rid of the fungus gnats first.

and i would definitely try to take clones. worst thing that happens is that they get rot and it would save you time from starting from seeds

Yes I certainly will fog it up. I used Gnatrol to get rid of the gnats but it's certainly not a bad idea to bomb it anyways.

 

[rkymtnman]

Nothing except high levels of chlorine worked to kill the infection for me.

what was your max ppm of free chlorine?

i ran at 3ppm to be in the safe zone for the plants which i've read can handle 5 no issues

 

[Jefferson1977]

Very high I don't know exactly because I don't have a meter but probably around 5 at least. If I recall correctly they can handle up to 50 PPM per Jorge Cervantes...?

 

[rkymtnman]

Very high I don't know exactly because I don't have a meter but probably around 5 at least. If I recall correctly they can handle up to 50 PPM per Jorge Cervantes...?

holy crap. that seems way high.

i know 5 ppm is safe for human consumption so that was my limit.