Sweet build system. I see an opportunity for UK/EU based vendor of that Chinese extrusion. Ideal for running led strips at higher currents.link
In the same boat with the same question. How soft should I run the 30 strips that I have in order to avoid using a heatsink?I am also considering getting my feet wet with the cheap arrow strips. My plan; 36 strips with 3 hgl320h48’s (12 strips w/driver; wired parallel) over a 4x8 table. Thoughts were no heat sink since strips were ran kind of soft. Should put me around 30 Watts per sq ft. Veg to flower, start to finish.... thoughts on this? Idk if it’s even possible, brainstorming still. Input welcome.
Have you got the serial number for the strips mate . What diodes are they on there? CheersOoooooo....look what just arrived!
View attachment 4548641
Frames are ready to go, potentiometers are mounted to their brackets, and the drivers which will be outside of the tent are mounted to a frame and have the long leads ready to go.
View attachment 4548642
Just waiting on my heatsinks and then I can finally get these lights built!
They are the SI-B8U521560WW GEN3 3500K stripsHave you got the serial number for the strips mate . What diodes are they on there? Cheers
Those F series strips are made with LM561C diodes.Have you got the serial number for the strips mate . What diodes are they on there? Cheers
Strips are rated at 1.38 mA max current.Do I have this figured out correctly?
To run 6 of the SL-B8V7N90L1WW-LED Modules
I want a HLG- 320H-48 driver?
Hello ,Strips are rated at 1.38 mA max current.
I'm running 6 strips on an HLG-240H-48, which is 0.83 mA per strip.
An HLG-320H is 1.1 mA per strip (x6). That should be good.
I wonder if I should run mine hotter?
I do like being able to put them closer to the plants and run passive cooling, though.
No worries. I have 3 strips (each) mounted on 5.88" x 24" heatsinks.Hello ,
sorry to but in, what have you mounted yours strips too?
Thanks
Idk man I ran 4 LT-F564B's under nominal (1050mAh) using 2" HSUSA heatsinks and they got plenty hot enough for me to think some type of thermal material is required, especially considering they are epoxy pcb's. I have H-Influx now which have an aluminum PCB and ran them at 750mAh for some seedlings completely in open air and they stayed ok to me but still plenty warm, and that's well under nominal. How are you coming to this conclusion? Not criticizing just curious.Again, F strips are designed to be able to operate within specs @ rated current in 'FREE AIR'. They don't REQUIRE heatsinks, just a structure to mount them.
The data sheets say 18awg for the one pin poke in, same as for the h-influx I have now but I just stripped a 14awg wire to test fit this for you and it fit just fine, barely but very secure. YMMVDoes anyone her know if 14AWG solid core wire will fit in the terminals on the F-Strips? I've seen people recommend 18AWG, but have a bunch of 14AWG romex here, so thought I would check before I go and buy more wire.
Thanks! You totally didn't have to do that for me, though. I have some here, I just didn't want to break anything by test fitting the wire.The data sheets say 18awg for the one pin poke in, same as for the h-influx I have now but I just stripped a 14awg wire to test fit this for you and it fit just fine, barely but very secure. YMMV
The F strips are commercial lighting fixtures. They are designed to operate in simple sheet metal housings, just like the fluorescents they replaced.Idk man I ran 4 LT-F564B's under nominal (1050mAh) using 2" HSUSA heatsinks and they got plenty hot enough for me to think some type of thermal material is required, especially considering they are epoxy pcb's. I have H-Influx now which have an aluminum PCB and ran them at 750mAh for some seedlings completely in open air and they stayed ok to me but still plenty warm, and that's well under nominal. How are you coming to this conclusion? Not criticizing just curious.