Mycorrhiza Fungi...why you should get to know them...

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
To begin high nitrogen guano. Then switch to high pk in bloom.
That kinda answered my question. I was talking about what type specifically though. I use SunLeaves and Down to Earth stuff. I meant Mexican, Indonesian, Madagascan, ect.

But no guano I've heard of has high K levels. It's mostly either N or P.
 

Mad878

Well-Known Member
That kinda answered my question. I was talking about what type specifically though. I use SunLeaves and Down to Earth stuff. I meant Mexican, Indonesian, Madagascan, ect.

But no guano I've heard of has high K levels. It's mostly either N or P.
I know sun leaves has 3 different kinds of guano. Mexican(high N) Jamaican and Indonesian. I believe Mother Earth has different guanos too.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I know sun leaves has 3 different kinds of guano. Mexican(high N) Jamaican and Indonesian. I believe Mother Earth has different guanos too.
They have more than 3. I have at least 3 of their guanos. This link has some, but I don't see the Mexican on here. I have Mexican too, and that's just N.

 

Mad878

Well-Known Member
I just checked. I have Mexican, Indonesian, Peruvian, and Madagascan Sunleaves guano. I also have the Down to Earth bat guano stuff that's has the same NPK as the Sumatran bat.
Sunleaves Sumatran Natural Fertilizer (8-3-1) promotes strong, healthy plants and abundant growth. This high-nitrogen plant food also contains enough phosphorus and potassium to provide a well-balanced diet during the vegetative cycle,
 

Mad878

Well-Known Member
Sunleaves Sumatran Natural Fertilizer (8-3-1) promotes strong, healthy plants and abundant growth. This high-nitrogen plant food also contains enough phosphorus and potassium to provide a well-balanced diet during the vegetative cycle,
During vegetation
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Sunleaves Sumatran Natural Fertilizer (8-3-1) promotes strong, healthy plants and abundant growth. This high-nitrogen plant food also contains enough phosphorus and potassium to provide a well-balanced diet during the vegetative cycle,
That's a direct quote from their website, lol.

 

bajasti

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever use green Trichoderma from contaminated mushroom spawn grains? I'm curious how one would use that in their beds/pots. I know many people encounter this while cultivating mushys..

Baja
 

dynomyco

Well-Known Member
Hey @garrythegardener,

You are completely right about the role mycorrhizal inoculants perform on plants.


The hyphal network increases the root surface area of the plant and enables the plant to absorb more nutrients thanks to the wider reach of the hyphae. The hyphae effectively increase the size of the roots by 10-100X! The fungi help the plants absorb phosphorus, nitrogen, iron, zinc, copper, and other microelements and can transport them to the plant. They break down unavailable phosphorus to the plant.


Approximately 85% of the phosphorus fertilizer applied to the plant doesn’t get absorbed because it is chemically or physically unavailable. With inoculated plants, fungi break down the unavailable phosphorus and make it available to the plant, reducing runoff pollution and allowing the plant to now absorb 90% of the applied phosphorus. This is significant since the plant relies on phosphorous for bud production. So the more available phosphorus, the more your plants will yield.


DYNOMYCO™ is a cannabis-specific mycorrhizal inoculant. It was formulated specifically for cannabis cultivation, through years of bioassays combining numerous mycorrhizal strains and cannabis varieties. It contains two species of endomycorrhizal fungi, Glomus intraradices and Glomus mosseae, at a concentration of 900 propagules per gram .

Happy Grow!!!
 

dynomyco

Well-Known Member
Old post, New info...

Hey guys,

Just want to remind you that DYNOMYCO is the fastes growing Mycorrhizal Brand in the Us Market.

Highly concentrated - DYNOMYCO™ boasts a high concentration of 900 propagules/g (3x the leading brand), creating a hyphal network which extends and protects the plant root system and enables it to better absorb nutrients and water

Cannabis-specific - Many mycorrhizal products contain fungal species and strains that have no affiliation with cannabis (e.g. ectomycorrhizal fungi and other endomycorrhizal strains with no proven symbiotic relationship). However, DYNOMYCO™ has been formulated specifically for cannabis cultivation, and contains strains that have been scientifically researched and proven to have a mutualistic relationship with cannabis plants.

Check out our website - www.dynomyco.com


Happy Grow!!!
 

Weedvin

Well-Known Member
Sometimes, things are so well written, it would be a dis-service to paraphrase them. I ran across this page on Mycorrhizal Fungi and thought it was great info. So, here is a link to it:
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Mycorrhiza - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Give it a read. Afterwards, you will have a better understanding of why these myco fungi - sold in products like Plant Sucess, Myco Magic, Sub-Culture and Super Plant Tonic - kick such serious a*s.
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Add them in your grow and reap the benefits. These little fungi, mine out every last bit of P for Mary - so her buddage reaches maximum potential.
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They also pump up the plants immune system by making all the necessary trace minerals soluble and kill off bad bacteria as a bonus. It's a win / win formula. So, next time someone says " There's a fungus among us - Say Cool, I was hopeing for some. "
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Keep it Real...Organic.....
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When you apply the fungi (s), it has to have a root system to do that incredible functions. I use china white millet in a five gal bag full of my mix. It grows rapidly after. 1-2 months when I cut the the millet at soil level, wait 5-7 days plant your stuff with the fungi already cultivated. It takes 3- months to get a culture living and multiplying. I'm just adding.
 

toomp

Well-Known Member
I grow in a medium called Jack's Magic, it is a peat moss based compost mix with added calcified seaweed. But cannabis people call it soil. Soil is what you dig in the garden. If you went to a proper horticultural place they'd laugh at you for calling it soil.
just stop it.
 

DrBuzzFarmer

Well-Known Member
This thread gave me a headache.
I have some ideas for folks:
Start a compost pile.
Get some rock dust.
Raise worms.
Stop buying products.
You cannot buy your way, or engineer your way, to Humic soil conditions.
At some point you must realize that processes are taking place that science cannot yet replicate or control.
You can go head to head with Mother Nature, and pay the costs, constantly working to maintain a healthy soil,
or you can work WITH Mother Nature, and let her do most of the work.
Your LOCAL microlife will literally blow in with the wind to populate your compost pile. They will crawl from a nearby hole in the ground to move in to your constant buffet. Mycorrhizal fungi are EVERYWHERE on the planet.
The amendments this thread is full of destroy the most fundamental benefit of Mycorrhizae. (surprise educational keyword: Glomalin)
Teas are a last ditch effort to save a crop when the health of the soil breaks down.
Used when not needed, they are like a massive hurricane to the microlife.
Fresh, finished compost is Mother Nature's way of supplying nutrition to the soil.
Any amending, or fortification, should take place in the compost pile, NOT the growing medium.
This thread should be about the amending and fortification of a compost pile.
It should mention final results of efforts taken place WELL before the growing season.
Mycorrhizal fungi work best when the soil is allowed to develop before planting, because spores must germinate, hyphae must spread, and Glomalin must be excreted from Hyphae to create the environment for Humic soil, before the life can move in and populate the soil in a healthy manner.
I'm going to get an aspirin and take a nap.
(No heat and only a little sarcasm intended :) )
I will explain soil science in a story format, if it helps...
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
This thread gave me a headache.
I have some ideas for folks:
Start a compost pile.
Get some rock dust.
Raise worms.
Stop buying products.
You cannot buy your way, or engineer your way, to Humic soil conditions.
At some point you must realize that processes are taking place that science cannot yet replicate or control.
You can go head to head with Mother Nature, and pay the costs, constantly working to maintain a healthy soil,
or you can work WITH Mother Nature, and let her do most of the work.
Your LOCAL microlife will literally blow in with the wind to populate your compost pile. They will crawl from a nearby hole in the ground to move in to your constant buffet. Mycorrhizal fungi are EVERYWHERE on the planet.
The amendments this thread is full of destroy the most fundamental benefit of Mycorrhizae. (surprise educational keyword: Glomalin)
Teas are a last ditch effort to save a crop when the health of the soil breaks down.
Used when not needed, they are like a massive hurricane to the microlife.
Fresh, finished compost is Mother Nature's way of supplying nutrition to the soil.
Any amending, or fortification, should take place in the compost pile, NOT the growing medium.
This thread should be about the amending and fortification of a compost pile.
It should mention final results of efforts taken place WELL before the growing season.
Mycorrhizal fungi work best when the soil is allowed to develop before planting, because spores must germinate, hyphae must spread, and Glomalin must be excreted from Hyphae to create the environment for Humic soil, before the life can move in and populate the soil in a healthy manner.
I'm going to get an aspirin and take a nap.
(No heat and only a little sarcasm intended :) )
I will explain soil science in a story format, if it helps...
Try breaking stuff up a little to make it easier to read.
 
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