RxCE who's done it, tips and tricks?!

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
I have done the R.I.C.E. method tho great success. Still learning tho. Added terps and all. Let's talk. I'll try to answer any questions I can and hopefully learn something from you all.

My first question I think tho is I have a very accurate induction cooktop. During final reduction should I do like 280 300 degrees f to make sure it heats up quickly to 250 once alcohol is boiled off, or would 240 or 260 and a more gradual heating be a better process.
 

HenryTheEighth

Well-Known Member
I don’t understand what you are talking about?
R.I.C.E method? Isn’t that first aid?

Are you talking about a rice cooker to cook off alcohol?
I wouldn’t use an induction cooktop to do alcohol reduction in your home.

Adding terps? What the hell for? When? Before you heat or after?

This all sounds Frankenstein.
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
Second question, well statement then question. I seem to get less than half the yield back when using salt with 99% iso. What am I doing wrong?
 

HydoDan

Well-Known Member
The salt mixes with the water in the iso and makes the iso more potent..
Iso won't mix with salt but water will..
Check out "salting out" iso.. Some of my oil is a little on the salty side..lol
 

Lou66

Well-Known Member
That site is terrible. The explanations make no sense (I studied chemistry so I should be able to follow that). Terms are used incorrectly (e.g. winterization is a refining step after extraction, not a spin on extration). And is plain lying: saying that isopropanol is GRAS is wrong. It is GRAS if the residual content is less than 0,005 %. This can hardly be achieved in a home setup.
Please don't drink acetone, even if the site recommends it.
 

Nrk.cdn

Well-Known Member
I never use the salt. I just did a batch this morning. The DIY tech is pretty sound.

I use a fondue skillet. Ramping up the heat slowly was important for my reduction. If you are reducing in a flat stainless bowl, weight it empty first so you know how much oil you are left with at the end. Then the measured ratio of MCT/Ethanol is easier to combine before adding to final tincture bottle.

Still learning but RXCE is much cleaner than the old RSO method.
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
I never use the salt. I just did a batch this morning. The DIY tech is pretty sound.

I use a fondue skillet. Ramping up the heat slowly was important for my reduction. If you are reducing in a flat stainless bowl, weight it empty first so you know how much oil you are left with at the end. Then the measured ratio of MCT/Ethanol is easier to combine before adding to final tincture bottle.

Still learning but RXCE is much cleaner than the old RSO method.
Yea I am gonna stop with the salt.
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
Anyone adding any terps back. I went and added 10% gdp terps to my gorilla zkittlez. Taste great. Made it a lil to runny for me tho. Next time I'm gonna try just 2% terps back
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking about trying with some fresh frozen material. I have some trim from months ago frozen. Was thinking of pre chilling my wash and trying to do everything involving washing quickly in the freezer. Or even moving from the freezer to like a cooler of ice water to keep the jar as cold as possible for agitation.
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
The salt mixes with the water in the iso and makes the iso more potent..
Iso won't mix with salt but water will..
Check out "salting out" iso.. Some of my oil is a little on the salty side..lol
Their is something else going on tho. Where is the loss in yield going when using salt. Are oils being trapped in the shit sinking to the bottom right after wash? Should something else be done to release the oils? I would like to use the salt if possible but I just can't wrap my head around what's happening. Salt is not increasing yield as stated in the documentation.
 

HydoDan

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure about the salt issue.. I've been doing a long freezer soak.. I prefreeze the Iso and weed for 24hrs, mix them together, shake, then back in the freezer overnight for another 24hrs to soak.. Shake the shit out of it then strain into the rice cooker.. It seems the get all the goodies and not so much crap.. I want to try fresh frozen next.. I do the short path to oil and skip the winterizing..
Maybe @Fadedawg can answer your salt question..
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
The salt mixes with the water in the iso and makes the iso more potent..
Iso won't mix with salt but water will..
Check out "salting out" iso.. Some of my oil is a little on the salty side..lol
So are you using 91% and salting it out to make it more like 99? If so are you just adding salt to the iso or doing the brine technique?
 

ProPheT 216

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure about the salt issue.. I've been doing a long freezer soak.. I prefreeze the Iso and weed for 24hrs, mix them together, shake, then back in the freezer overnight for another 24hrs to soak.. Shake the shit out of it then strain into the rice cooker.. It seems the get all the goodies and not so much crap.. I want to try fresh frozen next.. I do the short path to oil and skip the winterizing..
Maybe @Fadedawg can answer your salt question..
I read do not go longer than a hour on winterizing. I'll find the quote

Screenshot_20240302-220710.png
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Their is something else going on tho. Where is the loss in yield going when using salt. Are oils being trapped in the shit sinking to the bottom right after wash? Should something else be done to release the oils? I would like to use the salt if possible but I just can't wrap my head around what's happening. Salt is not increasing yield as stated in the documentation.
I'm an engineer, not a chemist, but my understanding is that salting ISO removes water, which is an undesirable, because it picks up non-targeted water-soluble constituents.

Not picking up the undesirable non-targeted water-soluble constituents will reduce your overall yield, but the purity is higher.

Plant waxes are non-polar and like likes like, so raising or lowering the dielectric constant the solution affects how efficiently it dissolves plant waxes. A Dielectric Constant of 15 is considered the threshold between polar and nonpolar, with ISO having a dielectric constant of 17.5, and water having a DE of 80, so the water will raise the DE of the mixture. Removing the water therefore lowers the DE and makes it more effective extracting plant waxes, so there will be more to fall out during winterizing.

The targeted elements that we covet are not in the plant material itself, they are in the trichomes hanging on the outside. ISO is aggressive enough that long soaks are actually counterproductive in that they extract more of the plant waxes and other not-targeted elements.

For instance, at -18C/0F I use a first soak of about 20 seconds. At -50/70C using dry ice, it takes longer, but still minutes, not hours. I do a similar second soak and keep the two extractions separate. I've never needed a third soak.
 

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MimiEMU

Active Member
That site is terrible. The explanations make no sense (I studied chemistry so I should be able to follow that). Terms are used incorrectly (e.g. winterization is a refining step after extraction, not a spin on extration). And is plain lying: saying that isopropanol is GRAS is wrong. It is GRAS if the residual content is less than 0,005 %. This can hardly be achieved in a home setup.
Please don't drink acetone, even if the site recommends it.
Howdy! i wrote that page. Lying about GRAS? No, Isopropyl, Acetone and Ethyl Acetate are all FDA class 3 solvents with a Conditional GRAS for food content. Yes, the volumes are restricted down to residual solvent levels, but it is allowed in food as stated in the FDA pages. How would you describe this if not Conditional GRAS or Semi-GRAS?
 

MimiEMU

Active Member
Regarding salt, that played a significant role in RSO 2.0 by salting out Isopropyl which caused a snow globe effect separating out the semi-polar compound. RxCE is simpler, an optional teaspoon of salt is used to help break the water/oil emulsion that happens on the first reduction.
 
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